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View Full Version : 3geez actin weird please help



danny nr crew
03-25-2009, 02:12 PM
well to start off its an 88 manual dx accord and the problem is that when u firts start it up it feels like as if thiers water in the oil and after its warmed up it drives fine wat u guys think?

russiankid
03-25-2009, 03:29 PM
What does it feel like to have water in the oil?

86ccord
03-25-2009, 03:55 PM
What does it feel like to have water in the oil?

like wet oil.. duh..

lostforawhile
03-25-2009, 05:03 PM
what do you mean it feels like there's water in the oil when you start it up?

84Accord
03-25-2009, 05:18 PM
how exactly does water in oil feel like?
:confused:

Civic Accord Honda
03-25-2009, 05:22 PM
well to start off its an 88 manual dx accord and the problem is that when u firts start it up it feels like as if thiers water in the oil and after its warmed up it drives fine wat u guys think?

wat :stick:.

please explane in more detail, do you mean it seems as if it has a blown head gasket on start up and then runs fine after its warmed up?..

or do you mean there is water in the oil on start up that goes away after its warmed up?

3rd Party
03-25-2009, 05:42 PM
is it me or does this even make any sense?? i mean...i know i'm blazed and all, but still...heh

-$MOKIN-
03-25-2009, 05:45 PM
Oh yeah the water in the oil feel .. ?

BITESIZE
03-25-2009, 05:45 PM
I think what you are trying to say is it feels like only 3 cylinders are firing?

3rd Party
03-25-2009, 05:49 PM
when u firts start it up it feels like as if thiers water in the oil and after its warmed up it drives fine wat u guys think?

that's just beyond me...i don't know how you could ask if it feels like it's only running on x amount of cylinders based on that info...

Civic Accord Honda
03-25-2009, 06:02 PM
is it me or does this even make any sense?? i mean...i know i'm blazed and all, but still...heh
word.

danny nr crew
03-25-2009, 07:36 PM
ok when i first start the car it feels like its stutering like not firing correctly i guess and i was thinkin that it was the head gasket and if that still doesnt make sence then shit gotta go back to school haha

Dr_Snooz
03-25-2009, 07:48 PM
When and how did this start?

3rd Party
03-25-2009, 08:32 PM
ok when i first start the car it feels like its stutering like not firing correctly i guess and i was thinkin that it was the head gasket and if that still doesnt make sence then shit gotta go back to school haha

well if it's having a rough idle you might want to start checkin' your ignition system, and sensors...if all those check out then start with fuel, and just start checkin' shit that is associated with the car running a smooth idle.

84Accord
03-25-2009, 08:35 PM
well seeing as its a DX run some seafoam through your gas and clean up the carb and see what happens. defintiely sounds like a choke problem though

Civic Accord Honda
03-25-2009, 08:37 PM
check cap rotor plugs wires timing clean carb

3rd Party
03-25-2009, 08:38 PM
check cap rotor plugs wires timing clean carb

word nigga :bandit:

danny nr crew
03-26-2009, 08:29 AM
alright thanks for the help and also the car smokes out blackish whitish and spits out a bit of water is that bad?

84Accord
03-26-2009, 08:41 AM
alright thanks for the help and also the car smokes out blackish whitish and spits out a bit of water is that bad?

blackish whitish?

if its black its running too rich or burning oil. um and a little bit of water is normal on startup cuz of condensation.

danny nr crew
03-26-2009, 09:22 AM
ey thanks 84accord but the smoke is barely even visable so this weekend me and my friend are gonna work on all the sensors and wat not till it starts right and ill get back to u guys next week hopefully

greentee76
03-26-2009, 02:14 PM
Check the diaphram for the warm air door in the intake hose and make sure it holds vacuum.

russiankid
03-26-2009, 02:35 PM
I vote the chock is slow.

danny nr crew
03-26-2009, 03:50 PM
im probably gonna sound like a noob but where exaclty is the warm air door located at and pics would be easier and more helpful and also where is the chock im not very good with carbs haha

russiankid
03-26-2009, 03:54 PM
Choke sits ontop of the whole carburetor. If you remove the air filter and look through the screen, you will see a flap. Its the only one there sitting up top. Thats the choke. Its controlled by an electrical coil, and overtime the coil wears down. So it just need to be adjusted and linkages need to be cleaned.

danny nr crew
03-26-2009, 09:11 PM
hey thanks russiankid thats a good idea and thats probably it because its all lose and shit

Oldblueaccord
03-27-2009, 04:15 PM
The choke is what helps your car start when its cold in the morning. It allows less air when cold and slowly opens as the car warms up. It should be 100% open when your car is fully warmed up. So it may be out of adjustment or your car is not fully up to temp.


wp

bwallace530
03-27-2009, 04:45 PM
The choke is what helps your car start when its cold in the morning. It allows less air when cold and slowly opens as the car warms up. It should be 100% open when your car is fully warmed up. So it may be out of adjustment or your car is not fully up to temp.


wp

is the choke so post to be loose at all like i can wiggle it with my finger

and when are the cooling fans so post to turn on

i just took on plug off and the car ran better but not at full power tho......it wasnt bogging down or making the popping sound it usally does.

Oldblueaccord
03-27-2009, 07:23 PM
Yeah the choke will have some play in it the way the linkage works but not much. When it warms up some I would set it to be full open in the summer and let it fall were it may for starting. In the winter time I would set it cold for good starting and let it warmed up fall where it may. Let me know if that makes sense.

Cooling fans should only turn on if the car is very hot temps or if your AC button is on and the fan speed on as well. If you do a search there some debate to this. I think on an Auto car it may come on a little more. My car it never comes on unless I am over 2500' altitude or my AC is running.


i just took on plug off and the car ran better but not at full power tho......

not sure about this statement but it sounds like your onto something.


wp

russiankid
03-28-2009, 08:51 AM
The choke is suppose to move freely, however if the coil is weak it won't close the choke all the way. Then do to the engines vibration, it closes all the way and the engine runs fine. Once it warms up, it should slowly start opening.

rfiks
03-28-2009, 10:11 AM
Choke sits ontop of the whole carburetor. If you remove the air filter and look through the screen, you will see a flap. Its the only one there sitting up top. Thats the choke. Its controlled by an electrical coil, and overtime the coil wears down. So it just need to be adjusted and linkages need to be cleaned.
this coil you speak of...
is it the actual engine coil or is there a carb coil?
(imacarb.noob:slap:)

lostforawhile
03-28-2009, 10:49 AM
this coil you speak of...
is it the actual engine coil or is there a carb coil?
(imacarb.noob:slap:)
you have to be kidding right? the coil that heats up and causes the choke to open,the round thing on the side of the carb with the wire that is attached with a linkage to the choke plate.

bwallace530
03-31-2009, 09:57 AM
Yeah the choke will have some play in it the way the linkage works but not much. When it warms up some I would set it to be full open in the summer and let it fall were it may for starting. In the winter time I would set it cold for good starting and let it warmed up fall where it may. Let me know if that makes sense.

Cooling fans should only turn on if the car is very hot temps or if your AC button is on and the fan speed on as well. If you do a search there some debate to this. I think on an Auto car it may come on a little more. My car it never comes on unless I am over 2500' altitude or my AC is running.


i just took on plug off and the car ran better but not at full power tho......

not sure about this statement but it sounds like your onto something.


wp

yeah mine is a auto and the cooling fans never turn on at all and my ac doesnt work. i want to take out all the ac but i dont know how too.

yeah i slowly took one plug off then turn the car on and it started then i would shut it off put it back on the take the next one off and so on the car didnt make the sound when one plug was off but i didnt have full power as if all were plugged in. im new to all this and im just trying to make sense of it and everyday it makes more sense but then theres something else i dont get.
i have a video of what my rpms are doing while the car is is starting up or at the stop light but i dont know how to upload it on to here.
i kno that i can send it too you guys email but i dont know who i should send it too cuz i think it might help out a lot.

Oldblueaccord
04-01-2009, 03:03 PM
Well if you mean one plug wire then that is a good test to see if you have a bad cylinder. It may just mean a bad spark plug or a bad spark plug wire. I would throw some new plain NGK spark plugs in it and maybe a new distributor cap and rotor and see what you get from there. Keep the old plugs and tell us what the electrodes look like.


wp

bwallace530
04-01-2009, 03:15 PM
i just got new wire and plugs the other day and there all good and there NGK plugs v-power
i had these plusstar plugs in there and i took them out and replaced them with the NGK ones the plusstar plugs are like all burnt up and are course not smooth like the used too be.
distributor cap and rotor are good on it.

last night i got some carb cleaner and i sprayed it around the carb and cleaned out as much as i could last night it was pretty damn dirty in there too. i sprayed the vacuum lines while the car was on and when i sprayed by i think its the pcv valve it bubbled up alot and around that area where the lines are coming out of the black box that side of the car when i sprayed the carb cleaner the cars idle when back to normal and the popping sound went away the car was like new again running fine but once it all died out the carb cleaner the car went back to almost dieing and having a rough idle.

Ichiban
04-01-2009, 03:38 PM
i just got new wire and plugs the other day and there all good and there NGK plugs v-power
i had these plusstar plugs in there and i took them out and replaced them with the NGK ones the plusstar plugs are like all burnt up and are course not smooth like the used too be.
distributor cap and rotor are good on it.

last night i got some carb cleaner and i sprayed it around the carb and cleaned out as much as i could last night it was pretty damn dirty in there too. i sprayed the vacuum lines while the car was on and when i sprayed by i think its the pcv valve it bubbled up alot and around that area where the lines are coming out of the black box that side of the car when i sprayed the carb cleaner the cars idle when back to normal and the popping sound went away the car was like new again running fine but once it all died out the carb cleaner the car went back to almost dieing and having a rough idle.

Your plugs were all burnt up? What colour were they, white or black. Also, the engine ran properly while you were spraying the carb clean, otherwise it would backfire and stumble really bad?

Sounds lean at idle.

You either have a vacuum leak somewhere, a fuel delivery problem (unlikely), or your idle mixture solenoid has come disconnected.

So,

Check for vacuum leaks. Use whats left of your carb cleaner to spray around the usual spots, like the carb baseplate, and intake manifold/cylinder head junction. If the idle improves while you spray a certain area, there's your problem. Pinch off bigger hoses by hand, like the brake booster and PCV, to test if these components have imploded upon themselves.

Check for fuel delivery. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb, point it into a suitable container (styrofoam cups aren't suitable, don't ask) and have your buddy start the engine for a few seconds. It will be obvious if fuel delivery is not an issue.

Locate your idle mixture solenoid. Make sure it's one wire is connected. Make sure it's one wire gets approx 12v when IGN is on. Make sure it clicks when power is supplied or removed. If no clicky, pull it out (1 screw) and put power to it. The pintle should move when power is applied, and again when removed. If it doesn't, it's toast.

bwallace530
04-01-2009, 03:51 PM
Your plugs were all burnt up? What colour were they, white or black. Also, the engine ran properly while you were spraying the carb clean, otherwise it would backfire and stumble really bad?

Sounds lean at idle.

You either have a vacuum leak somewhere, a fuel delivery problem (unlikely), or your idle mixture solenoid has come disconnected.

So,

Check for vacuum leaks. Use whats left of your carb cleaner to spray around the usual spots, like the carb baseplate, and intake manifold/cylinder head junction. If the idle improves while you spray a certain area, there's your problem. Pinch off bigger hoses by hand, like the brake booster and PCV, to test if these components have imploded upon themselves.

Check for fuel delivery. Disconnect the fuel line at the carb, point it into a suitable container (styrofoam cups aren't suitable, don't ask) and have your buddy start the engine for a few seconds. It will be obvious if fuel delivery is not an issue.

Locate your idle mixture solenoid. Make sure it's one wire is connected. Make sure it's one wire gets approx 12v when IGN is on. Make sure it clicks when power is supplied or removed. If no clicky, pull it out (1 screw) and put power to it. The pintle should move when power is applied, and again when removed. If it doesn't, it's toast.

they where white at the top.
yeah it would run fine and when i didnt spray it it would run like crap.
its not a fuel problem.
might be a vacuum leak im not sure.
where is the idle solenoid?
where are these to make sure im looking a the right thing. "the brake booster and PCV,"

Ichiban
04-01-2009, 07:05 PM
they where white at the top.
yeah it would run fine and when i didnt spray it it would run like crap.
its not a fuel problem.
might be a vacuum leak im not sure.
where is the idle solenoid?
where are these to make sure im looking a the right thing. "the brake booster and PCV,"

The idle mixture solenoid is on the side of the carb body somewhere, it's the only other thing besides the choke that I know of that has a wire going to it. It's a small shiny cylindrical object.

Your brake booster is the big round thing on the firewall behind the brake master cylinder. There's a big fat hose coming out of it going to the intake manifold. Chances are if there's a problem with it, you'd notice it while braking. You can kink the line, or unhook it and plug it to test.

I'm really not sure how the PCV system is set up on the carb'd A20s. It may be in the valve cover, or it may be a black box hanging off of the block under the intake manifold. Investigate and make sure nothings broken/missing in either of those locations.

lostforawhile
04-01-2009, 07:24 PM
The idle mixture solenoid is on the side of the carb body somewhere, it's the only other thing besides the choke that I know of that has a wire going to it. It's a small shiny cylindrical object.

Your brake booster is the big round thing on the firewall behind the brake master cylinder. There's a big fat hose coming out of it going to the intake manifold. Chances are if there's a problem with it, you'd notice it while braking. You can kink the line, or unhook it and plug it to test.

I'm really not sure how the PCV system is set up on the carb'd A20s. It may be in the valve cover, or it may be a black box hanging off of the block under the intake manifold. Investigate and make sure nothings broken/missing in either of those locations.
you are going to have to pick up a hand vaccume gauge and start checking stuff, it's a nesscity on these carbed cars, you can check all your vaccume solonoids and controls to check for leaks. pm me your adress and i'll mail you copies out of my chiltons of how to check that entire system. it's very good. as far as the pcv system here's how it works, on the top of the valve cover you will have a line going to the air cleaner,this is fresh air for the system, on the back of the oil pan theres a large vaccume line that goes to that black box,this is where it picks up the blowby fumes, it pulls air through the block from the breather hose,circulates it down through the oil return holes, into the pan,and up that hose at the back. the black box is a liquid vapor seperator, vapors go out the top, liguids such as oil return to the block. there is second connection to the block at the back of that box. it's got an o ring that actually is attached to the box and pushes into the block. then the box bolts down. the vapors go up the hose at the top of the box,into the pcv valve,and from there into the intake manifold. the hose past the pcv valve will not cause major problems,but the one to the valve will cause a major vaccume leak. these hoses get old and brittle,so a good place to check for leaks. it's a very very good pcv system,a lot of newer hondas don't have this system and are subjected to crankcase pressure problems. they sell a kit for them,thats basically identical to the system on our cars,for up to 500 bucks. on my new manifold i kept the system set up the same way,i just changed all the hose connections to threaded fittings,so i could run AN, and fix the oil leaks. i also added a coolant passage in the box to heat it up, this makes it work better.

-$MOKIN-
04-01-2009, 07:57 PM
All those vacumn lines on that carb have to be checked. If you have to foot it to get down the street and then dies at idle
one of the first things you need to check.
Just let it run and feal around the lines for air .
Maybe spray the lines at each tip with carb cleaner and look for bubbles.
make sure the hose lines are all there and goin to the right numbers .
The line has a number on it and the bracket.

My old 87 lx was a carb in the azz back in the day. Have you been threw a winter with it yet? And ive had to do alot of work on the vacumn system Pain .But thats what ya gotta do. Lost a line once and had to foot it for aobut 10 miles once.

bwallace530
04-01-2009, 09:13 PM
how much and where would i go get a hand vacuum tester. and would i need anything else to test the vacuum.

i wanted to get a vacuum gauge oil and volts but i dont kno how to hook it up. or where to buy.

-$MOKIN-
04-01-2009, 10:13 PM
:stick: Contact your local Honda dealer .

lostforawhile
04-01-2009, 10:40 PM
how much and where would i go get a hand vacuum tester. and would i need anything else to test the vacuum.

i wanted to get a vacuum gauge oil and volts but i dont kno how to hook it up. or where to buy.auto parts store like advance or autozone, cost a little but a great diagnostic tool,i'll get this section of my book copied and out to you,it tells you how to use one and the procedures you need to do the tests.

Ichiban
04-02-2009, 03:36 PM
I fully agree that a handheld vacuum pump is a great tool, and especially so for bleeding brakes, but I don't think you really need one to solve your problem. You can simply use your eyes, ears, fingers and brain to diagnose most things. Look for obvious disconnected/broken parts. Listen for vacuum leaks. Use carb clean to check for leaks over large seal areas. Also, as mentioned before, if carb clean finds a leak, you won't see bubbles, as air is being drawn in. You will hear a change in the way the engine is running, just like when you spray the carb clean directly into the carb. Disconnect lines and try to blow air through, if air goes through, reconnect, start the engine, and pinch off that line. Find your problem this way instead.

bwallace530
04-02-2009, 04:05 PM
I fully agree that a handheld vacuum pump is a great tool, and especially so for bleeding brakes, but I don't think you really need one to solve your problem. You can simply use your eyes, ears, fingers and brain to diagnose most things. Look for obvious disconnected/broken parts. Listen for vacuum leaks. Use carb clean to check for leaks over large seal areas. Also, as mentioned before, if carb clean finds a leak, you won't see bubbles, as air is being drawn in. You will hear a change in the way the engine is running, just like when you spray the carb clean directly into the carb. Disconnect lines and try to blow air through, if air goes through, reconnect, start the engine, and pinch off that line. Find your problem this way instead.

i will try that later on this weekend im really tierd of looking in that engine and not finding anything so im going to take a break for a few days its really starting to get frustrating. i went to change the coolent the other day cuz its filled up all the way to the top when the car is off but i couldnt get the plug at the bottom off the car and i burnt the crap out of my arm on the header damn glove that was between me and the header moved and my arm was stuck that crap hurt. anyone know a easyier way of getting that plug loose of worked on it for and hour or two yeha i kno that sounds stupid but it just wouldnt budge at all
i will try it this way then if i cant find it or anything at all then i will get that vacuum thing.