PDA

View Full Version : how to get this *&^^%$ shifter out?



lostforawhile
03-30-2009, 10:40 AM
ok how does this shifter come out? i already have the heat shield removed out of the way, there has to be a trick here somewhere. also how does the weight ring come off of the factory shift rod? the shift handle rod not the rod under the car, i'm working on a custom shifter right now and i need to get the old one out.

2oodoor
03-30-2009, 11:36 AM
I dunno but the auto shifer has a cottor key hidden in the tranny :kekeke:

AccordB20A
03-30-2009, 11:40 AM
I dunno but the auto shifer has a cottor key hidden in the tranny :kekeke:

you undo the auto cable at the gearbox end?? i never do (thats prolly how the break all the time haha)

whenever i do anything with the shifter i remove the whole thing, remvoe the 2 bolts under the gear stick and the 10mm holding the stabiliser rod onto the gearbox and the 12mm bolt going through the shifters "universal" joint and pull the whole lot out

i removed my exhaust head sheild as i didnt need it and it got in the way.

LX-incredible
03-30-2009, 01:30 PM
ok how does this shifter come out? i already have the heat shield removed out of the way, there has to be a trick here somewhere. also how does the weight ring come off of the factory shift rod? the shift handle rod not the rod under the car, i'm working on a custom shifter right now and i need to get the old one out.

Inner circlip under the shifter boot, 12 mm bolt and nut at the bottom. It should then pull out through the top. The weight is pressed on and is very difficult to remove. The whole linkage can be removed by undoing the two nuts that hold the extension bar to the body. Be sure to undo the two interior boots first, as they don't sell the inner one anymore... It's probably toast by now anyway.

Hash_man_Se_i
03-30-2009, 01:33 PM
^^^ Yup that circlip was a bitch without proper tools, held me up for a while/

lostforawhile
03-30-2009, 02:02 PM
Inner circlip under the shifter boot, 12 mm bolt and nut at the bottom. It should then pull out through the top. The weight is pressed on and is very difficult to remove. The whole linkage can be removed by undoing the two nuts that hold the extension bar to the body. Be sure to undo the two interior boots first, as they don't sell the inner one anymore... It's probably toast by now anyway.
inner one was toast, pulled it out from the bottom as the rear bushing that holds the shifter assembly has the bolts frozen into it, now thats it's out i can free them. they have a rear bushing for an 84 civic on egay for like 12 dollars. if an 84 civic shifter fits the bushing should fit,it looks the same. what a son of a bitch of a job, i have the mugen short shifter here from a later model,the one with the balll bearing end,got it for a buck, but the dam ball is just a little too big. the bolt fits the bearings and everything. bearing end fits in the shift fork end. the rubber bushings off of the factory one even fit over the bearing. it's that dam close. going to go up to work tomorrow and get to cutting and welding on the factory shift arm. anyone got a spare in case i screw this one up?
oh here is the new shift arm,just have to make the steel part that welds to the factory arm piece. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020263-1.jpg it's machined from a solid piece of billet round bar stock. i have a regulation goofy cue ball thats going to be my shift knob. i wanted a taller shifter arm since i have gorilla arms and my arm always had to be stretched out and down to low in an uncomfortable position.

LX-incredible
03-30-2009, 03:00 PM
Cool. The 88-00 civic shifter will work if you use the civic ball cage and a spacer.

lostforawhile
03-31-2009, 10:31 AM
ok the shifter is done, thanks to Bobby Brock at the plant for welding this up,managed to weld it without melting the weights.
had to wrap a wet rag around the weights to absorb the heat from the welding. and just keeps pressing it into the weight until the steel was cool. I cut off about 4 inches off of the shift lever,then i split it with an end mill,and fit a piece of steel in there. I then hammered the halves together over the steel, and it got welded up. then the ends got rounded off with an angle grinder. the steel bolts to the aluminum arm with two AN bolts. I used AN because they are a precision diameter, and there are no threads through the material. this prevents wear on the aluminum or steel. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020297-1.jpghttp://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020298-2.jpghttp://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020300-1.jpg still have to make an insert for the cue ball, and drill and press it in.

lostforawhile
03-31-2009, 01:16 PM
oh majestic has almost all the parts available ,including the lower boot. i have to cut off the bolt heads holding in my bushing to get it out, since the bolts are frozen in the bushing sleeves. i'll drop it all out from underneath, then i can make new sleeves if needed. it's just all corroded together. have an 84 bushing set to replace that bushing and the one in the torque rod,civic set.

AccordB20A
03-31-2009, 01:22 PM
uoi should have made a super short shifter out of it by adding a bit of material to the bottom of the shifter (after it goes threw the ball thing)

lostforawhile
03-31-2009, 01:38 PM
uoi should have made a super short shifter out of it by adding a bit of material to the bottom of the shifter (after it goes threw the ball thing)
well i don't mind the shift speeds, i thought about doing that,but i'm happy with the way it shifts, i put aluminum bushings in where it connects to the transmission,so it shifts really well.

2oodoor
03-31-2009, 03:18 PM
you undo the auto cable at the gearbox end?? i never do (thats prolly how the break all the time haha)

.

well the importers cut the original cable and I had to use the one on the car already so I had to swap that.

Lost, great work, that looks tight:D

lostforawhile
03-31-2009, 05:22 PM
well the importers cut the original cable and I had to use the one on the car already so I had to swap that.

Lost, great work, that looks tight:Di was going for an old style look, i really didn't like anything out there that could be bought,it angles the gear shift backwards and up higher, right where i want it to be. waiting on the oddball replacement parts so it can go back in.

loko84hb
04-01-2009, 09:35 AM
any pics of it inside the car?

2ndGenGuy
04-01-2009, 10:00 AM
well i don't mind the shift speeds, i thought about doing that,but i'm happy with the way it shifts, i put aluminum bushings in where it connects to the transmission,so it shifts really well.

Where did you get the aluminum bushings? Or can you make me some? How much?

lostforawhile
04-01-2009, 10:11 AM
any pics of it inside the car?i have to get some repair parts for the factory shifter before i put it back in,the lower boot is torn,and the lower dust seal is missing.



Where did you get the aluminum bushings? Or can you make me some? How much?I made the bushings, i had the car at work a while back putting in the steering rack,and because i have oil leaking from the transmission, it kept deteriorating the rubber ones. so while I was there i made some. not sure on the older hondas what the specs would even be. if i had a transmission and the shift rod in front of me,i could make one in no time.

lostforawhile
04-01-2009, 10:20 AM
hey if anyone has an old shifter assembly collecting dust with those parts good let me know.

lostforawhile
04-01-2009, 10:55 AM
the rear bushings that holds the end of the torque rod,is stuck in the car,the bolts seized to the metal bushings that go through it. i had to bend the plate in the car back just to get the shifter out, and yank it out of the bushing. i'll have to cut the two bolts from inside the car,then i can drive the entire,bushings, bracket,metal bushings,everything down and out. once it's out i can fix it. the plate is easy to fix,just some hammer and dolly work to straighten it back out.

Ichiban
04-01-2009, 11:01 AM
Where did you get the aluminum bushings? Or can you make me some? How much?


I can!

Cost: FREE!!!!!!!11!

Rendon LX-i
04-01-2009, 11:22 AM
It think your better of getting the civic short throw. cleaner and well reduce 30% of your throw. but looks good

lostforawhile
04-01-2009, 11:46 AM
I can!

Cost: FREE!!!!!!!11!
if i had the specs for his cars would be no problem,i could turn them out of scrap aluminum in no time.

lostforawhile
04-01-2009, 05:29 PM
ok managed to get the bracket out in one piece with no damage to it. bolts came out also. so waiting on the poly bushings and when i can afford it i need those repair parts,unless someone has em used for a couple of bucks.

lostforawhile
04-01-2009, 06:50 PM
ok the metal plate is reinstalled, the rubber gasket between it and the floor is excellent. it's a son of a bitch getting all those nuts back in from the top. I found it interesting that the gasket between the body and that piece that the shifter comes through has original paint stuck to it. the shifter assembly must have been one of the first pieces to go in after the car came out of paint. the paint would have still been tacky which explains why it was stuck to the gasket. it would have made more sense for it to go in then, no exaust, and no heat shields in the way,easy to hang from the bottom.

lostforawhile
04-02-2009, 05:14 PM
i'm on here for a minute, there are more pictures of this project at my site,it's in my signature, also a couple of videos. look under my sidebar for new projects

lostforawhile
04-02-2009, 07:00 PM
in mockup, http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020314-1.jpg

2drSE-i
04-05-2009, 05:10 PM
forgot you had leather seats lost! That shifter looks great.

lostforawhile
04-05-2009, 07:41 PM
forgot you had leather seats lost! That shifter looks great.

they need a good cleaning,they are filthy, just sitting in there for now, so i could see how the shifter worked out, some saddle soap and a good scrubbing and they will clean right back up. once i run out of stuff to do on the engine for now, i will hit the inside again. money situation is really bad for the moment, so i'll do what i can work on,like putting the interior back together.

lostforawhile
04-12-2009, 07:22 PM
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020322-1.jpghttp://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020332-1.jpg

Rendon LX-i
04-12-2009, 07:57 PM
nice lost nice. so is this your h/m short thow or just for look wise. does it reduce the throw at all.

lostforawhile
04-12-2009, 08:18 PM
nice lost nice. so is this your h/m short thow or just for look wise. does it reduce the throw at all.it's to move the shifter up and back towards me i have to sit with the seat all the way back, so the shifter being where it is can be a pain for me. I really don't mind the throws now, once you put in poly bushings, and i put in an aluminum one in that couples the tranny to the shift rod, that shortened up the throws a lot. it was all play. most people are used to them with 20 year old worn out bushings.

Rendon LX-i
04-12-2009, 08:20 PM
mines all over the place...whys that yet shifts fine but looks like a moving aminal at times.....moves side to side when im shifting...idk wtf

lostforawhile
04-12-2009, 08:26 PM
mines all over the place...whys that yet shifts fine but looks like a moving aminal at times.....moves side to side when im shifting...idk wtf

you have a bushing at the back that connects the shifter to the car itself,they are usually shot, you have another big bushings that connects the shift torque rod to the side of the transmission,also usually shot. you can get the energy suspension set number 16.1101r ,that has both of the bushings in it, it's for an 84-87 civic/crx, but it's the same. the bushing connecting the shift linkage to the tranny is probably also shot, you have to make your own on that one. if your motor mounts are worn, the shifter will move with the engine, it's connected directly to the transmission. the entire shift assembly is designed to slide back and forth on that rear bushings, that lets the shifter move with flex in the motor mounts.

Rendon LX-i
04-12-2009, 08:38 PM
No motor mounts are stiff...but ill look into that....thanks lost...post pics of your bushings man

lostforawhile
04-12-2009, 08:43 PM
i'll try to get some pictures up i bought this set a few years ago on egay and squirreled it out in my garage until i ever got around to doing the shifter. I think was five bucks or something

Rendon LX-i
04-12-2009, 08:47 PM
that would be cool...give alot of guys a good view of how that is.

lostforawhile
04-12-2009, 08:54 PM
oh there are more pictures on my site, click on the link and look for more projects in the side bar

lostforawhile
04-12-2009, 09:01 PM
here are the two videos of making the part that fits in the shift boot. http://s220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/?action=view&current=S4020308-1.flv http://s220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/?action=view&current=S4020310-1.flv the first one is just drilling out that piece to rough size, i had to bore it to exact size,second is putting the knurl on it.