New to the club, but here is my LX-i

[JFern]

Hey guys, i have been looking around the forum for some time now and decided to join up and show you guys my new project, i have generally built american muscle cars with some imports here and there but after my last one I'm burnt out so I'm trying something new and i have always liked the 80's hatchbacks.... so i got one ^_^ anyways enough about me, here is my car and plans for it as well as mods that have already been done:

So on Craigslist i saw this 1986 Honda Accord Lx-i 2.0 FI for sale with 180,000 miles and with no price, it didn't run and it looked like crap and had been sitting for about a year. I went down to go look at it and the interior was disgusting and the cam gear had snapped off when he had changed the timing belt. I bought it for $400 and towed it to my work where i got it running again. i changed head gasket, timing belt, water pump, pretty much everything i could so that it would be reliable.

Mods:
-Port and Polished head (i figured i might as well since i had to take it apart anyways, i also did the combustion chamber)
-Removed A/C
-Removed CC
-Removed Trunk stuff
-In Process of removing P/S
-NGK Iridium Plugs
-8mm Low resistance wires
-Fog Lights
-New Rims (Ok long story here, i had the stock rims on here until at my work i apparently pissed someone off and they threatened my life and slashed my tires, so instead of getting stock ones again where you can't find the tire size anywhere i went to the junkyard....Whoo junkyard, and yes the tires in front are smaller than the back, the fronts are 195/60R14 and the backs are 205/60R15 because i couldn't find a matching set. the backs are fittlpaldi's and the fronts are some random ones from a civic that look similar)
-Custom rattle can black paint (i got bored)

Future Mods:
-Lightened flywheel and performance clutch
-Battery Relocated to back
-interior redone (not a big fan of the blue)
-New tail lights (the rears are cracked)
-Tokico shocks and whatever suspension kit i can get
-Front strut tower brace
-Rear strut tower brace (in process of modifying one from a newer integra)
-Bigger brakes and rear disc brake conversion
-Perhaps a Turbo for now until i get something else

And now here is the big one:
Motor swaps:
i haven't decided what to do here, since i live in california, smog laws dictate i can only have a motor that came with later accords, which means i can have an h22, j30, f22, or a k24 (droool).... as much as i would love a k24 or any honda motor i am also considering one other thing similar to my friends project (please don't hit me for this) but i think i would be able to put in either a 4G63 with the lancer or GSX drivetrain, a CRX B20 with CRX drivetrain, or a Subaru boxer motor with drivetrain and make an AWD or RWD accord.... granted that is A LOT of modification but i plan on going big with this car and i just can't drive on the track that well with FWD cars.

Here some pictures of it, thanks for your time (oh and now my lenses are painted on the front of the car on the headlights so just imagine they are black):Dhttp://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/HPIM1962.jpghttp://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/HPIM1963.jpghttp://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/HPIM1964.jpghttp://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/HPIM1965.jpghttp://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/HPIM1966.jpghttp://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/HPIM1967.jpghttp://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/HPIM1968.jpghttp://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/HPIM1970.jpghttp://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/HPIM1971.jpg

['A20A3']

nice hatch. :welcome:

[danny nr crew]

damn thats a pretty nice hatch kinda reminds me of mine but i would like those rims u got as well haha and welcome to the forum

[86ccord]

sick ride bro! you should lower it.. :D

[itzdave]

looks good!

[Joay]

Lower it! Also is that a stock muffler?

[JFern]

yes it is the stock muffler sadly, (with a chrome tip), i'm working on getting an exhaust setup but its a pain to here in san diego because of all the smog laws, i found a performance cat from magnaflow i can use and ill be getting a muffler when that comes in, not sure which one to go with though (so many choices).... and as for lowering, I'm actually online looking at which kit i want now ^_^ it will be approximately 1.5'' to 2.0'' all around for right now, i gotta deal with fender clearance from my tires that stick out... nothing a baseball bat and some time can't fix

[Joay]

Well it looks like you're off to a good start, seems to be a solid car. It's always weird for me to see old Hondas without rust on the arches - we don't roll that way where I'm from.

Any pictures of your other projects? Ever done a second-generation F-Body?

[Civic Accord Honda]

nice!! i dig it bro! keep us updated !

[Tdurr]

Very nice. I like. hope you learn something and you can teach us something!
also u should get it dyno'ed to see how much the P&P did for the car.

[BITESIZE]

Looks awesome dude!!

[markmdz89hatch]

looks like a good clean hatchie that needs some tlc. ...but nothing beyond the capabilities you've already demonstrated that you have. Thanks for rescuing this one from the scrap pile. Good match on those wheels too. I wanna see how much you ported out that head.

There is another member here that's in the midst of a Subie (AWD) swap and conversion on his 4-dr 3G. Look around and hit him up for details on the snags he's run into so far and it'll help you save some time. Also, look up Tommy Thailand, he's got a fellow 3G owner that's got a 4G63T (I think) in it as well, so another resource for you.

Welcome to the board.

[MessyHonda]

nice start on that hatch

[A18A]

i like that black hatch, looks cool

[AccordB20A]

neat car dude

[King Peetis]

Talk about a good running start, Man you are on you way. Great match on those wheels. Fitipaldis huh? I havent heard that brand name in a minute. If you are planning on lowering it make sure you confer with markmdz89hatch, he'll get you straight the first time around...

[JFern]

Thanks for the kind words guys ^_^ I have been really busy lately working on some things and thought i would show you. first of all, i took out the stock fans and out in two 12'' electric fans from hayden (i get a huge discount on them, they were cheaper than just a stock fan motor since mine broke) so that cleaned things up a bit... http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/Newfans.jpg i also relocated my battery to the rear of my car, which i will cover in depth in the performance section of the forum (You should check it out if you are considering it) but here is my engine compartment now (So Roomy!) whhich will give me some good space to run an intake (i might pick up my friends and use his, he's got a carbon fiber one on his type r integra that would fit mine, i think....)

anyways more to come, i ordered my new shocks and springs that should arrive any day now so ill post a picture once they are installed

[codyJDM]

Nice car man :thumbup:

I would inspect your radius rods, your front wheel is pushed back a little too far. Keep up the good work!

[Rendon LX-i]

good base start...what your plans?

[JFern]

Nice car man :thumbup:

I would inspect your radius rods, your front wheel is pushed back a little too far. Keep up the good work!
ya i see what you mean.... hmmm.... ill take a look when i change out my springs and stuff, thanks ^_^

[JFern]

so i finally got a cold air intake on my car and got rid of that snake of an old one, tell me what you think
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/HPIM1976.jpg

[Nafs Asdf]

so i finally got a cold air intake on my car and got rid of that snake of an old one, tell me what you think
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/HPIM1976.jpg


Heh, looks like it's made of tinfoil ;)

[Pico]

Nice short ram.

[ghettogeddy]

i believe its still considered to be a sri not a cai

[JFern]

semantics, technically its a short ram :P

[markmdz89hatch]

only not considered a CAI because it's still pulling air from the engine compartment, which is typically about 20-40° higher than the ambient temp outside. ...the CAI (regardless of length) is called such only because it's pulling in ambient temperature air (typically cooler air). HOWEVER, one little common blunder is having it too close to the very bottom of the car, without any shielding, which then makes the thing suck in air that's typically also hot (in summer months) due to the very hot pavement. Oops.


All that technical junk aside, I really like this, and like your attention to detail in wrapping it with the heat-shield tape and reattaching the vac lines. The tape isn't doing much because it's just protecting the piping from the same temp air that the filter is drawing, but the idea is certainly there.

[JFern]

only not considered a CAI because it's still pulling air from the engine compartment, which is typically about 20-40° higher than the ambient temp outside. ...the CAI (regardless of length) is called such only because it's pulling in ambient temperature air (typically cooler air). HOWEVER, one little common blunder is having it too close to the very bottom of the car, without any shielding, which then makes the thing suck in air that's typically also hot (in summer months) due to the very hot pavement. Oops.


All that technical junk aside, I really like this, and like your attention to detail in wrapping it with the heat-shield tape and reattaching the vac lines. The tape isn't doing much because it's just protecting the piping from the same temp air that the filter is drawing, but the idea is certainly there.
i'm working on a way to make it a CAI but this is what i'm using for now and it makes a huge difference. the air is a little cooler on that side of the motor because its away and front of the header. good advice about intake placement, i'll definitely take that into account

[JFern]

Oh i forgot to take pictures (ill get some up soon) but i got my suspension installed! t took a little ingenuity and some time but i did it by myself in a parking space outside my apartment (my neighbors hate me btw).

I bought a set of the blue tokico struts and then mated them with set of suspension technology springs, not only is the ride better (my old ones were blown) but it lowered it about two inches all around (it looks good if i may toot my own horn). i just wanted something with a little better stance, not too drastic.

it now corners much better but those spaghetti sized anti-sway bars have got to go....

[JFern]

Well it has been quite awhile since i have posted anything about my car since i have been s busy, but i have been doing lots of research into my next steps with my project. But i have done a couple things of interest to my car that i thought i would share so here it goes:
First of all i installed new shocks and springs (ST springs and tokico blue shocks all around) to give my car a better stance and ride
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/Carside.jpg
(Im trying to find 2 more fittipaldi's for the front to get rid of that empty space but nobody has any.)

The next thing i did was get rid of the side things, um.... door guards or whatever they are called, i'm in the process (about 50% done) with getting them smooth with the rest of the door, i still have LOTS of sanding and smoothing to do but i have no time so i painted it for now to protect it and i'm going to leave it until i get more time.
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/sides2.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/sides.jpg

I also did some work to squeeze out what i can out of this motor so i took off the A/C and all of it's components and the P/S pump as well as it's components. Without the both of them i have saved quite a bit of weight and regained a quicker throttle response. Since i have a power steering rack however i needed to figure out a way to keep fluid inside of it so i don't ruin the rack (until i get money to put a manual one in since the ratio is better)

But here is how to do it: go to pegasusautoracing.com and buy:
P/N: 3557 (Tilton Remote Reservoir Mounting Bracket w/O-Ring) $8.99
P/N: 3558-SMALL (Tilton Reservoir Tank, 4 oz) $7.99
P/N: 3564 (Threaded Cap for Tilton Master Cylinder & Reservoir) $5.99
P/N: 3577 (Clamp for Tilton Inlet or Reservoir) $1.99

Then put it together and mount it (i chose where the old P/S reservoir was)
*it's the white thing with the black cap, also take a piece of rubber hose shaped like a "U" and run the two hard lines to each other (its what the old reservoir was hooked to) now it's a bitch to get the line out of the front where the bumper is, i broke it and cut it out ^_^
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/Sresevoir.jpg
Then go to your local auto parts store (i got some from my work) and buy a length of Bulk P/S hose that goes from the bottom of your new reservoir to where the P/S pump hooked up to the rack (it's on the passenger side behind the motor) carefully cut the metal tubing and attach the hose to it with some clamps and.....
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/steeringresconnection.jpg voila! no more power steering and no worry of a lack of fluid destroying your rack and pinion. be sure to put some fluid in the reservoir but remember: IT WILL COME SHOOTING OUT WHEN YOU TURN IF TOO MUCH IS IN THERE, in mine you see no fluid in the actual reservoir because it is in the hose and the reservoir acts as a breather so that when you turn you don't have to push against any pressure from the fluid or pump.

woo *takes a breath*

so here is the finished product (it's practically cavernous)
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/enginebay.jpg

Now last but not least one of my customers at work gave me a free, YES FREE! SF 2 bumper for a 94-01 integra that i am going to mess with to see if i can fit it up to my car (or if i even like the style) one of my friends is good at this kind of stuff so i will have to have him help (me + body mods= potential disaster)
i am going to see if i can cut it on the seam below where it says Integra and mate it with my bumper but i'm not sure how it would turn out, ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREAT since many of you have much nicer looking cars (body kit or not)
i want this
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/SF2Bumper.jpg
to go here
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/Frontbumper.jpg

or maybe i will sell it and just put a lip on for now.....

anyways.... after days and nights searching through this forum i am possibly going to do these future:
-Se-i rear brake conversion (then converting that to 11'' rotors)
-11" Legend front rotors with type r calipers (i can get pads rotors and calipers for $200) just gotta get them machined
-vigor rear sway bar
-front and rear strut tower braces
-a paint job
-an exhaust with a new CAT (or none at all) with headers

anyways, sorry to barage you with my novel-like post of info, ill try to post more often

[markmdz89hatch]

i give you credit for doing the mods on the car. I'm kind of puzzled though, the PS and AC removal makes good sense, especially with the use of that new reservoir. ...but the puzzling is by way of the attempt at removing the moldings. It looks like it's just bondo or plastic filler to fill the entire cavity rather than metal patch welding. Can you confirm? I feel like I should dislike the two-tone hood, but I do like it. The fogs look great too.

Now while that 'teggy front bumper is much more angular and less swoopy than others I've seen, I'm going to say my opinion is that it's not going to flow right with the car.

Beyond that, the fundamental trouble with that bumper is that it's too narrow (the front of the accord is wider if I'm not mistaken) and it's got too much of a curve on it because the front of the 'teg has a gradual curve to it, while the 3G is pretty well straight across without much curve.

I also like some of the subtle details of the intake and how it's foil wrapped to help protect it from underhood heat, as well as the snorkel you put on the front to draw air not only from the engine bay, but also using the stock air inlet. The breather tubes tapped into the intake is a good idea too. Not the best for performance, but environmentally more sound.

[Civic Accord Honda]

mark said everything i was going to say

[Rendon LX-i]

Very nice..ill have to do this..ill make my own take...so all you did just loop those lines by the water pump. then you run a hose from the pass. side to the resisvor or w/e and dont put any fluid in it...sounds good bro.....i VOTE you make a good how to and put it up on the how to section...VERY handy

[headbanger]

man that is quality at its finest on the rack I might do this to mine.

[Pico]

Great write up on the P/S removal and reservoir replacement

[JFern]

:( yes Mark unfortunately as thorough as i can be with certain mods that i do this one was one of the ones that i knew i would get flak for. I do not have a metal patch because i live in a small apartment with no place for a welder, i have no place to do it, and i can't afford to pay anybody to weld it on for me (and none of my friends have a welder so i'm kinda screwed). So yes it's just bondo essentially to fill in the gap and when i get more time i am actually going to be taking out the filler and welding on a metal plate (to reduce the bondo from cracking which i am almost certain it will) my car has a lot of rust and body problems though and i am essentially using it as practice to make my body working skills better (i might buy another car with a better body down the line but i don't really know yet)

The hood was also an experiment, it's different and easy to find my car in a parking lot so i keep it

And i am still very unsure if i like the bumper enough to try and make it work on my car. it looks like the width is ok but the style just isn't quite right. I'm looking for something more similar to some of the other bumpers i have seen here.

Thanks for the comments ^_^ i always appreciate criticism and i'll keep you informed in my progress

[markmdz89hatch]

Nice man, honestly as much as I might criticize with the bondo instead of metal, I still tip my hat to you for actually trying it. I'm too much of a chicken-shit to try it, for fear of screwing something up. I'm a big fan of that res on the ps pump delete though. Props for that. The hood too, I do like it.

[JFern]

I would have rather have done the metal patch instead of the bondo for strength purposes (i am hoping that the bondo will not crack when i start taking my car to the track) but it doesn't really matter since my paintjob is horrendous anyways, but i thought i will see how it turns out, and keep you posted. Thanks for the comments ^_^

oh and before i forget, does anyone know if the integra kits from 86-89 fit the accords? i know that they are similar platforms, but everything is slightly different on these cars so i wasn't sure (you know like all integras have rear discs, and some use that DOHC ZC motor that people use to swap a lot and stuff)

[Rendon LX-i]

what size hose you use? same as the stock p/s hose is?

[JFern]

what size hose you use? same as the stock p/s hose is?

I believe it is 3/8'' (~ 9.5mm) sized p/s hose, you can usually find it in a bulk hose section of an auto parts store (its just a thicker version of 3/8 fuel line that is oil resistant)
I got mine from Kragen/O'reily's (or checker or schuck's) depending on where you live

[Rendon LX-i]

Well it has been quite awhile since i have posted anything about my car since i have been s busy, but i have been doing lots of research into my next steps with my project. But i have done a couple things of interest to my car that i thought i would share so here it goes:
First of all i installed new shocks and springs (ST springs and tokico blue shocks all around) to give my car a better stance and ride
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/Carside.jpg
(Im trying to find 2 more fittipaldi's for the front to get rid of that empty space but nobody has any.)

The next thing i did was get rid of the side things, um.... door guards or whatever they are called, i'm in the process (about 50% done) with getting them smooth with the rest of the door, i still have LOTS of sanding and smoothing to do but i have no time so i painted it for now to protect it and i'm going to leave it until i get more time.
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/sides2.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/sides.jpg

I also did some work to squeeze out what i can out of this motor so i took off the A/C and all of it's components and the P/S pump as well as it's components. Without the both of them i have saved quite a bit of weight and regained a quicker throttle response. Since i have a power steering rack however i needed to figure out a way to keep fluid inside of it so i don't ruin the rack (until i get money to put a manual one in since the ratio is better)

But here is how to do it: go to pegasusautoracing.com and buy:
P/N: 3557 (Tilton Remote Reservoir Mounting Bracket w/O-Ring) $8.99
P/N: 3558-SMALL (Tilton Reservoir Tank, 4 oz) $7.99
P/N: 3564 (Threaded Cap for Tilton Master Cylinder & Reservoir) $5.99
P/N: 3577 (Clamp for Tilton Inlet or Reservoir) $1.99

Then put it together and mount it (i chose where the old P/S reservoir was)
*it's the white thing with the black cap, also take a piece of rubber hose shaped like a "U" and run the two hard lines to each other (its what the old reservoir was hooked to) now it's a bitch to get the line out of the front where the bumper is, i broke it and cut it out ^_^
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/Sresevoir.jpg
Then go to your local auto parts store (i got some from my work) and buy a length of Bulk P/S hose that goes from the bottom of your new reservoir to where the P/S pump hooked up to the rack (it's on the passenger side behind the motor) carefully cut the metal tubing and attach the hose to it with some clamps and.....
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/steeringresconnection.jpg voila! no more power steering and no worry of a lack of fluid destroying your rack and pinion. be sure to put some fluid in the reservoir but remember: IT WILL COME SHOOTING OUT WHEN YOU TURN IF TOO MUCH IS IN THERE, in mine you see no fluid in the actual reservoir because it is in the hose and the reservoir acts as a breather so that when you turn you don't have to push against any pressure from the fluid or pump.

woo *takes a breath*

so here is the finished product (it's practically cavernous)
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/enginebay.jpg

Now last but not least one of my customers at work gave me a free, YES FREE! SF 2 bumper for a 94-01 integra that i am going to mess with to see if i can fit it up to my car (or if i even like the style) one of my friends is good at this kind of stuff so i will have to have him help (me + body mods= potential disaster)
i am going to see if i can cut it on the seam below where it says Integra and mate it with my bumper but i'm not sure how it would turn out, ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREAT since many of you have much nicer looking cars (body kit or not)
i want this
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/SF2Bumper.jpg
to go here
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/Frontbumper.jpg

or maybe i will sell it and just put a lip on for now.....

anyways.... after days and nights searching through this forum i am possibly going to do these future:
-Se-i rear brake conversion (then converting that to 11'' rotors)
-11" Legend front rotors with type r calipers (i can get pads rotors and calipers for $200) just gotta get them machined
-vigor rear sway bar
-front and rear strut tower braces
-a paint job
-an exhaust with a new CAT (or none at all) with headers

anyways, sorry to barage you with my novel-like post of info, ill try to post more often

Well im having some troubles with this ps removal man LOL.....i did it like you said looped the to hard lines and cut the one on the pass side then ran a hose from there to a resivoir...(I used a clutch resivior off a civic) well im getting like pressure and gets hard to turn when you go back the other way like its fighting it(not to the point where im like tugging hard just enought when you know its figint it). So idk i tryed putting fuild in there and emptyed it. those two little hoses you show on the pic on the rack want to pop off ummm. IDK give me a hand. im i doing something wrong?

O this is on jack stands to so idk. and i tryed it with the cap off lol:help:

[alberto]

Hey vato Im frome S.D. too and have the same suspention setup as well, but dude the front and the bondo thing wy not go too T.J. and pay in pesos so it would be cheeperrr and the sway bars I saw them at pick your part yust waith 4 the sale days oh and the se-i rear brakes I only seen theme in this T.J. junk yard but it's the federales yunk yard so if your a gringo bring a good friend and you will get it for a good price I meen their so meny of the 3 geez here becouse of the auto actions it's amazing that no members frome T.J. are here OH and one more thing what were the othere v8 projects you hade coss I have a 67 Impala and a 79 Monte Carlos I am still working on.

[Rendon LX-i]

I think the issue is im turning it way to fast...in realitly i wont be when im driving it for the fact its going to be a BIOTCH lol

[JFern]

I think the issue is im turning it way to fast...in realitly i wont be when im driving it for the fact its going to be a BIOTCH lol

Well if it is up on jack stands than it will definitely react differently than if the wheels are on the ground (there is still som pressure build up inside of the rack because of fluid flow b/c its not a true manual rack) but i don;t have any problems turning back and forth while driving. (i mean it feels like manual steering, it isn't easy if you are not moving but its good when you start rolling a bit, it has to do with the castor but thats a different thread altogether ^_^)

as for the line on the rack i only have the ONE line running to where the power steering pump hooks onto the metal line on the passenger side, and i have it held on by a clamp pretty tightly so it doesn't come off, as for the "u" shaped line, because of the barbs on the lines it doesn't come off either on my car.

It doesn't sound like you are doing anything wrong on you car, But i'm the kind of person that has to see it (it's the mechanic in me haha)

hope this helps rendon

[JFern]

so instead of trying to use the whole bumper, i cut the integra bumper (~ 3-4 inches up from bottom) and i will be using it as a sort of front lip and modifying my stock bumper to fit it, i held it up and i think it will look pretty aggressive without looking overdone. pics coming soon

[Rendon LX-i]

Well if it is up on jack stands than it will definitely react differently than if the wheels are on the ground (there is still som pressure build up inside of the rack because of fluid flow b/c its not a true manual rack) but i don;t have any problems turning back and forth while driving. (i mean it feels like manual steering, it isn't easy if you are not moving but its good when you start rolling a bit, it has to do with the castor but thats a different thread altogether ^_^)

as for the line on the rack i only have the ONE line running to where the power steering pump hooks onto the metal line on the passenger side, and i have it held on by a clamp pretty tightly so it doesn't come off, as for the "u" shaped line, because of the barbs on the lines it doesn't come off either on my car.

It doesn't sound like you are doing anything wrong on you car, But i'm the kind of person that has to see it (it's the mechanic in me haha)

hope this helps rendon

Thats all i wanted to know man. Thats what i relized that when its on jack stands its different good to know. and thanks a bunch.

[JFern]

Thats all i wanted to know man. Thats what i relized that when its on jack stands its different good to know. and thanks a bunch.

glad to be of service ^_^ i'll be hitting you up when i get my parts for a turbo setup for advice

[Rendon LX-i]

NO problem brother. just shoot me a pm

[JFern]

Well things have not been so great for my accord lately, someone decided it would be fun to break into my car through my window that didn't close properly (it is now fixed so this doesn't happen again). They tried to steal her but were too stupid to take off the club first (and its got a killswitch anyways) and just decide to fuck a couple of things up and steal my registration.

Also, my car decided it would be a fun game to leak coolant everywhere and overheat (i CAN'T figure out where its coming from) It drips on the ground right about where the oil filter would be if you look straight down, but there are no hoses leaking that i can see and i have a new head gasket on it from last year, so i'm kinda stuck until i get it on my friends lift and check it out.

The wheels i had on it are in storage because the tires are too low and im afraid of another blowout, so i put on my old ones (whoo 175/70r13's!!) since they are relatively new, and now my car looks silly with those steelies and my suspension (i'm trying to buy some buddy clubs or regmasters from my friend at work, he will also sell me his apex muffler)

but anyways, i trashed the lip i was going to put on and decided to get one from a civic or integra close to my year (i found some online) and start working on stiffening the chassis with tie bars and such...... i just have to research a bit more to see what years would be easiest since i have no garage at the moment

[danny nr crew]

dont u just hate theives
but good luck on trying to figure out were the coolent is leaking from and ima jus take a guess on where its leaking from but do u think its from the water pump since its like right next to the oil filter just guessing thow

[JFern]

dont u just hate theives
but good luck on trying to figure out were the coolent is leaking from and ima jus take a guess on where its leaking from but do u think its from the water pump since its like right next to the oil filter just guessing thow

Thanks ^_^

My bike got stolen not too long ago too so i'm not happy about this (if i find them i'm going to show them why NOT to mess with somebody who owns a lot of tools and works with machinery for a living) but enough insanity....

i guess it could be the water pump, its a reman cuz i was short on money when i rebuilt the motor, ill have to get in there and look, my car stinks when i drive cuz it lands on the exhaust so im going to get under it tomorrow and check

[JFern]

Great write up on the P/S removal and reservoir replacement

Thanks, sorry to hear about you losing interest in your car, it happens to the best of us

[Joay]

It blows my mind that someone would try to steal a 3G. Unless it has rare wheels or a really nice stereo, who the heck is going to buy any of the parts?

At least they didn't get it, good call on the killswitch.

[JFern]

It blows my mind that someone would try to steal a 3G. Unless it has rare wheels or a really nice stereo, who the heck is going to buy any of the parts?

At least they didn't get it, good call on the killswitch.

ironically hondas are the #1 stolen car in america, but compared to the NSX down the street, the heavily modified s2000's around the corner and the dude with three integras and a 240sx next to me, MINE is the one that gets broken into, the funny thing is is they left all my tools and my stereo and stuff (so god knows why he would want just to steal my whole car) it would have overheated anyways, its pissing fluid like a horse


and thanks, i installed the switch when i relocated my battery

[Joay]

Well yeah, Integras and Civics I can totally understand since everyone and their mom has one. But a CA Accord? Who drives those anymore, besides us?

[Civic Accord Honda]

lol people dont steal 3gees to steal parts from them dumb teenagers steal them to joy ride in because they think " who the hell is going to report this thing stolen" ^

but yeah man that tottaly sucks my 3gee got fucked with allot

[alberto]

Vatos I got mine stollen in Oct. and got it back 5 days later in Tijuana wen I fuoun the car they took the radio and broke my dashbord and cut of the exost but left the speekes and the headers oh and the si weel's that I hade at the time no batt, ether or my fog lith's but wen I went to get the car frome the impound it was up the hill frome my house so I drove in just glading down the hill for some 10 blocks or so with my brother following.OOOH have you check the hoses next too the intake manifol some times the metal end's get oxided and leek.

[JFern]

Well yeah, Integras and Civics I can totally understand since everyone and their mom has one. But a CA Accord? Who drives those anymore, besides us?

this 80 year old women down the street from me haha, i think its for sale

[JFern]

Vatos I got mine stollen in Oct. and got it back 5 days later in Tijuana wen I fuoun the car they took the radio and broke my dashbord and cut of the exost but left the speekes and the headers oh and the si weel's that I hade at the time no batt, ether or my fog lith's but wen I went to get the car frome the impound it was up the hill frome my house so I drove in just glading down the hill for some 10 blocks or so with my brother following.OOOH have you check the hoses next too the intake manifol some times the metal end's get oxided and leek.

ya ill have to check when im under there, i didnt think about that

[rc87]

Re Coolant leak: on the FI motors (mine anyway) there are 2 small coolant hoses UNDER the intake manifold. Real bear to replace - I found hoses from O'Riellys that fit. One of them may be the leak. They connect to the main WP Inlet Pipe that runs across back of engine - one from Intake manifold other from TB.

[Rendon LX-i]

check the hose next to your PCV valve...your prolly leaking there...

[JFern]

Re Coolant leak: on the FI motors (mine anyway) there are 2 small coolant hoses UNDER the intake manifold. Real bear to replace - I found hoses from O'Riellys that fit. One of them may be the leak. They connect to the main WP Inlet Pipe that runs across back of engine - one from Intake manifold other from TB.

I couldn't see anything the first couple times i looked but now i see them, and i heard a small squeal coming from there when i was overheating and i put a mirror under the intake and it looks like one of the hoses has a small tear in it, thanks for the info guys (a huge help as always), i'll be changing a bunch of hoses tomorrow (including those) as to avoid any future leaks due to old hoses

[JFern]

Alright! after a little bit of search and destroyi found a couple of hoses that had some slits in them under the intake, and connected to my IAC (i replaced them all). i am in the process of replacing ALL my hoses to avoid anymore of this nonsense. I also had a lot of air in the system and that seems to have made the leaks worse because the vapor would escape much easier and cause my car to overheat (as well as throw off my temp gauge)

Speaking of gauges, i am heavily considering adding some aftermarket ones and have been looking at getting some gauges from glow shift (the tint series ones look the coolest imo) Has anyone used these? i think im going to buy this kit: http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/88-91-honda-civic-custom-gauge-package.aspx Probably with a water temp, oil pressure, and a A/F gauge (its just a narrow band) for when i tune down the line (im not sure what 3rd gauge would be worth getting beside the water temp and oil pressure since they have a huge list of them)

[alberto]

Vato I know you want the car too look nice an all but you youst got the car broken in too just get the car in good runing cont, or if posible some other not flashy important stuff like suspention or headers some thing like that don't get mad I just want to help.

[JFern]

ya... im not one of those guys that likes flashy shit like neon and stuff, im more about function than form, i just like having gauges so i know how the car runs, i thought about them getting stolen too but any other project would cost much more than i have now. but i think i agree with you and i don't want some decent stuff to get stolen so i'll probably just get some cheap gauges from my work and install them temporarily

[JFern]

Well after finding out that my belts don't work and that my friend can let me race with him and his club (it's a muscle car club but since i used to be in it too they said its fine if i race my honda) i am putting in some better seats, harnesses and building a harness bar/structural cage in my car, i will be starting tomorrow

I just picked up a pair of NRG seats and four point cam buckle harnesses and will be installing them soon, the seats are these ones: http://d5otzd52uv6zz.cloudfront.net/group-f9569099-8d4d-47d2-82d7-1fca61188c68-420.jpg and they are identical to the recaros in my other friends type r.

I will also be building a harness bar behind the seat (gotta do it right! you aren't supposed to have the harnesses dip below 10 degrees behind your seat or else you could get spinal compression in a crash or the belts won't work as well) but i will be tying in the harness bar with a strut tower brace and some bars in between for strength so essentially it looks like a W with the harness bar on the top and the strut tower brace below all connected (chassis stiffening to the max!) its the start of a cage but for now i will just have a little sub cage behind my seats, pics to come!

its essentially like this but with more bracing and the harness bar integrated with it http://store.kennybrown.com/files/29501%20Strut%20Tower%200304%20Cobra%20Brace.jpg

[Rendon LX-i]

sweet....post pics to....O BTW the power steering removal works wounderful. THANKS

[JFern]

sweet....post pics to....O BTW the power steering removal works wounderful. THANKS

no problem :) i am enjoying mine as well ill put up pics this week, hopefully the seats will be in by tomorrow

[JFern]

Well i have been busy lately so i hadn't had time to post, but i got my new seats and belts in my car! it took quite a bit of welding (i reused the old sliders and welded plates to it so the seats would bolt to the plates) but the pictures speak for themselves
here are the seats
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/IMG_4277.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/IMG_4282.jpg

here are the belts (mounted to where the old rear seatbelts and front lap belts were mounted)
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/IMG_4278.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/IMG_4287.jpg
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/IMG_4289.jpg

The new seats hold you in much better than the old ones (which makes for better cornering since im not being thrown around anymore), and the new belts won't fail like the stock ones (hooray relatively more safety!)

[JFern]

so i went to the junkyard too, and i got a new tail light assembly, a sway bar from a vigor (finally, there was only one in the yard), and a new spare tire (just in case someone decides to slash my tire again) here are my pics!

old one on top, new one on bottom
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/IMG_4308-1.jpg
putting in the swaybar
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/IMG_4306.jpg
old light out
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/IMG_4290.jpg
old crappy one, vs. new shiny one
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/IMG_4296.jpg
New one!!
http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/IMG_4298.jpg

[gp02a0083]

i know you said this before, but the bondo in the molding area will most likely not last, most in experienced techs mix condo incorrectly (yes it sounds weird but there is a correct way of doing it). Most common cause is air bubbles being trapped in the bondo when it is mixed and cures, later on if you get it painted it will most likely bubble through. Body flex i wouldn't worry much about being its just the door and the dogleg on the 1/4. Ive done similar to 240sx's and it worked fine for me, but then again its a smaller gap to begin with. i agree with mark about the patch for the gap, you could try as an alternative to welding , using JB weld. then i would fill the gap from the inside with a weatherproof expanding insulating foam found at lowes or home depot, stuff dries rock hard.
PM me if you want to know more about this and i can give yah more tips for it, not bashing you on your work at all, just trying to save you headaches later on.

[Civic Accord Honda]

holy shit those seats look awesome man!!! :thumbup:

[JFern]

holy shit those seats look awesome man!!! :thumbup:

Thanks :)

[JFern]

i know you said this before, but the bondo in the molding area will most likely not last, most in experienced techs mix condo incorrectly (yes it sounds weird but there is a correct way of doing it). Most common cause is air bubbles being trapped in the bondo when it is mixed and cures, later on if you get it painted it will most likely bubble through. Body flex i wouldn't worry much about being its just the door and the dogleg on the 1/4. Ive done similar to 240sx's and it worked fine for me, but then again its a smaller gap to begin with. i agree with mark about the patch for the gap, you could try as an alternative to welding , using JB weld. then i would fill the gap from the inside with a weatherproof expanding insulating foam found at lowes or home depot, stuff dries rock hard.
PM me if you want to know more about this and i can give yah more tips for it, not bashing you on your work at all, just trying to save you headaches later on.

Im not quite sure how the jb weld would stick on the out side, but ill pm you when i get down to doing this, as i said before i want to just weld a plate on but i have no welder.... though maybe i can use my friends again like i did with my seats...

thanks for the advice though :)

[gp02a0083]

it'll be fine with the jb weld , used it to repair floors, most important part to get it to work right is the prep so its got something to grab onto

[JFern]

it'll be fine with the jb weld , used it to repair floors, most important part to get it to work right is the prep so its got something to grab onto

guess that stuff really can fix anything :D

[markmdz89hatch]

guess that stuff really can fix anything :D

I fixed a crack on an exhaust manifold on a '78 Ford F100 l6, and it worked like a charm. Also used it to fill the fitting for the EGR and AirSuction tube on the stock carby exhaust manifold and it too worked like a charm. ...so yeah, it's truly as close to a cold weld as I can get.

Anyway, real nice job on the seats, and good call on using the stock rear belt mounting points. My only concern with them is the angle of the mounting point vs. the top of the belt restraint. In my experience it's always been recommended to have the mount point as close to level with the shoulder height of the harness. No facts to back that up though.

Damn, any chance I can send you a set of sliders from a pair of stock seats to get tabs welded to fit those same seats? I've been eyeing them for some time on egay because the civic groupies seem to be ok with their build quality, and they're dirt friggin cheap.

Props on doing it. The look damn good in there.

Any chance you took a caliper to that rear bar to get it's diameter? I wonder how it compares to the stock 88-89 LX-i rear bar. I know you put it up against your 86-87 LX-i, but the 88-89 it a bit beefier.

[Joay]

I've been eyeing them for some time on egay because the civic groupies seem to be ok with their build quality, and they're dirt friggin cheap.
If it makes your decision any easier, when my friend decided he didn't want them anymore he had to break them in order for them to accept a return. We beat the shit out of them with a baseball bat and barely messed them up.

[markmdz89hatch]

If it makes your decision any easier, when my friend decided he didn't want them anymore he had to break them in order for them to accept a return. We beat the shit out of them with a baseball bat and barely messed them up.

haha. Well yeah, just incase I get into a baseball bat storm, I'll feel safe enough the seat will be able to withstand it. No but really, that does help. There are so many parts to a seat that will make it good/bad. I've noticed most of the high end companies (Sparco, Corbeau, Recaro, etc) tend to spend a ton of R&D money on the seat structure, and ensuring their foams and materials used are very fire retardant, but for some reason, they all seem to suck on their durability. Damn near every race car you see, if it's been run for a few seasons, the seats already have some tears or the foam is completely discintigrated. These seem to have adopted the structure of the Recaros in the ITR's (it's what their modeled after), and appears to have pretty decently durable materials and foam. ...I just hope the seat structure doesn't suffer greatly on it's actual strength as compared to the Recaro's.

[JFern]

I fixed a crack on an exhaust manifold on a '78 Ford F100 l6, and it worked like a charm. Also used it to fill the fitting for the EGR and AirSuction tube on the stock carby exhaust manifold and it too worked like a charm. ...so yeah, it's truly as close to a cold weld as I can get.

Anyway, real nice job on the seats, and good call on using the stock rear belt mounting points. My only concern with them is the angle of the mounting point vs. the top of the belt restraint. In my experience it's always been recommended to have the mount point as close to level with the shoulder height of the harness. No facts to back that up though.

Damn, any chance I can send you a set of sliders from a pair of stock seats to get tabs welded to fit those same seats? I've been eyeing them for some time on egay because the civic groupies seem to be ok with their build quality, and they're dirt friggin cheap.

Props on doing it. The look damn good in there.

Any chance you took a caliper to that rear bar to get it's diameter? I wonder how it compares to the stock 88-89 LX-i rear bar. I know you put it up against your 86-87 LX-i, but the 88-89 it a bit beefier.

Thanks mark, and yes you are right about the belts, i am fully aware of the angle of the seatbelts (they should not go beyond 10 degrees down from where your shoulder is), i am currently building a subcage to put into my accord *points to an earlier post #64*
I will also be building a harness bar behind the seat (gotta do it right! you aren't supposed to have the harnesses dip below 10 degrees behind your seat or else you could get spinal compression in a crash or the belts won't work as well) but i will be tying in the harness bar with a strut tower brace and some bars in between for strength so essentially it looks like a W with the harness bar on the top and the strut tower brace below all connected (chassis stiffening to the max!) its the start of a cage but for now i will just have a little sub cage behind my seats, pics to come! i gotta save a bit of money to get the materials though and convince my friend to use his welder again.

i'm not sure if i would be able to to some sliders for you car though mark :( unfortunately it took me and him six hours of welding and grinding and stuff to get it to fit and since its not my welder i will have to see if he is ok with doing it all over again

as always.. Thanks for the advice :D ill have to get some jb weld thats industrial sized... im thinking of smoothing out the bondo thats on there and just covering it with jb weld on the surface and smoothing it out (easier said than done) so that its eve with the panels, it seems like like it would be much stronger than just the bondo alone and won't fall apart or anything, we will see how it goes

[JFern]

haha. Well yeah, just incase I get into a baseball bat storm, I'll feel safe enough the seat will be able to withstand it. No but really, that does help. There are so many parts to a seat that will make it good/bad. I've noticed most of the high end companies (Sparco, Corbeau, Recaro, etc) tend to spend a ton of R&D money on the seat structure, and ensuring their foams and materials used are very fire retardant, but for some reason, they all seem to suck on their durability. Damn near every race car you see, if it's been run for a few seasons, the seats already have some tears or the foam is completely discintigrated. These seem to have adopted the structure of the Recaros in the ITR's (it's what their modeled after), and appears to have pretty decently durable materials and foam. ...I just hope the seat structure doesn't suffer greatly on it's actual strength as compared to the Recaro's.

The other reason the big named seats are usually better is not only because of R&D but also because they are widely accepted by many racing sanctions, i haven't researched enough yet, but i'm pretty sure when i take my car to the track they are not going to like the seats and belts

[markmdz89hatch]

The other reason the big named seats are usually better is not only because of R&D but also because they are widely accepted by many racing sanctions, i haven't researched enough yet, but i'm pretty sure when i take my car to the track they are not going to like the seats and belts

Agreed. You'll need to ensure you get the DOT and SNELL approved helmets. FIA approved Seats and harnesses. ...and an SCCA spec inspected and approved cage. ...now that's specifically for SCCA sanctioned races, but I'm sure other clubs have their own rules set as well.

[JFern]

Agreed. You'll need to ensure you get the DOT and SNELL approved helmets. FIA approved Seats and harnesses. ...and an SCCA spec inspected and approved cage. ...now that's specifically for SCCA sanctioned races, but I'm sure other clubs have their own rules set as well.

as far as i know my seats and belts are not FIA approved but by the time i get to racing i will have upgraded both anyways, and the sub cage i am building is to scca standards, havent decided whether to use DOM steel or chrome moly tubing though

[gp02a0083]

if its built to SCCA specs it shouldn't be a problem with most local clubs. as for the bondo, id start over if i were you with the JB weld, just to fill it a bit then use bondo if you want to go that route.

baseball bat storm you say.... got my Louisville right here

[JFern]

so i just bought a c-pillar bar for my car from my buddy with a 98' integra (20 bucks woot!) ill post pics soon. I also am finishing up with my rub strip removal, i took out some bondo and replaced it with jb weld. Just put on the last bit of bondo and have to sand it smooth and paint it (the pink doesn't suit my car)

oh btw, i can't find this anywhere, but i wanna change the title to the thread (and im sure an admin has to do it) but.....i'm not exactly new and the title bothers me, and sorry if i'm just dumb), but i don't wanna make another thread for my car as a build thread (since this thread is pretty much one anyways) any help would be appreciated ^_^

[and12buc]

just wanted to say you've done a nice job with this project. It would've taken me twice as long to get where you are. not saying im going to do the same exact changes. but you get the point. love the seats btw. where'd you pick em up from? and the cold intake I want it!!

[JFern]

thanks man, I LOVE YOUR PAINTJOB BTW!! I got my seats from a shop called pann auto nearby where i live, and the CAI i made using parts from my work (kragen/checker/schucks/murray's/o'reilly's/ whoever the hell else bought us) auto parts.

Thanks for the comments ^_^ ill have more pics soon, been doin a lot lately but ill keep you guys updated!

[JFern]

Just finished my sides today and painted it! yay no more bondo on my sides while i drive around! I think the black looks cool for right now, its nowhere near perfect but its good enough for me until i get a real paintjob. now i gotta work on getting some headers, putting in my apex'i muffler, a cat, and a bisi cam :cool:anyways......http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/noname-2.jpghttp://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n55/woff27/noname-1.jpg

[AccordB20A]

looks good, reminds me one someones 2g...

[JFern]

looks good, reminds me one someones 2g...

Ty

[Civic Accord Honda]

looks good, reminds me one someones 2g...

was i samething thinking the

[Rendon LX-i]

O shit the batmobil LFMAO...no no nice man better then what it was. What you should have done is 2 tone it....

[and12buc]

Wow man. No lie that thing looks way better. Cleaner is it just trim black? Did u do it yourself too?

[JFern]

O shit the batmobil LFMAO...no no nice man better then what it was. What you should have done is 2 tone it....

haha ya... im just doing it in stages and paintin' shit when i get bored :P, first the hood, then the hatch, now my sides.... by the time im done it will be all black at this rate.... i thought about two tone but im too lazy and just don't feel like painting anymore....

[JFern]

Wow man. No lie that thing looks way better. Cleaner is it just trim black? Did u do it yourself too?

Thank you ^_^ (i wish it was as nice as yours turned out) but no its not trim black, its krylon semi flat "rust tough" with a clearcoat over it, i dunno why but i like the combination. and yes i did it myself unfortunately (never again) im just glad its done with, i was getting sick of driving around with huge globs of silly putty on my car

[JFern]

(Ok long story here, i had the stock rims on here until at my work i apparently pissed someone off and they threatened my life and slashed my tires,

Remember this in my first post? He slashed all four of my brand new tires today at work...... again :rant:

tried to get pics but i forgot cuz i was so pissed, on an interesting side note my car looked pretty good 2 inches from the ground (besides the slashed tires)

[Civic Accord Honda]

damn! that sucks bro :(

[markmdz89hatch]

Remember this in my first post? He slashed all four of my brand new tires today at work...... again :rant:

tried to get pics but i forgot cuz i was so pissed, on an interesting side note my car looked pretty good 2 inches from the ground (besides the slashed tires)


Any other damage to the car? Aren't there any cameras around? Where do you work man? At this point, I'd make it VERY apparent to everyone that I have a pistol permit, and while this is only damage to my car, there is clearly someone out there who has intent of revenge of some sort and you fear bodily harm to yourself. Therefore, you have every intention of using your gunpowder-&-lead-powered-defense-mechanism. Honestly, if someone could go so far as to slash 8 tires now, they are truly deserving of at least the back half of a pistol on the noggin (or at least knee-cap or back of the hand) [pistol-whip].

I hope you get to the bottom of that, and have a restraining order placed against him, pop all tires on all of his vehicles, and get a court order for him to repay the cost of replacement of 8 tires. Fuk that. I don't play games when it comes to shit like this.

Anyway, yeah that glob of goo has sanded down nicely and looks good with a fresh coat of paint on it. I'm surprised at the reference point for your line (the top of the corner lens) as opposed to the body line just 2" north. ...either way though, a really interesting paint scheme fo sho. You know though, those seats do look good from that angle too.

[JFern]

Any other damage to the car? Aren't there any cameras around? Where do you work man? At this point, I'd make it VERY apparent to everyone that I have a pistol permit, and while this is only damage to my car, there is clearly someone out there who has intent of revenge of some sort and you fear bodily harm to yourself. Therefore, you have every intention of using your gunpowder-&-lead-powered-defense-mechanism. Honestly, if someone could go so far as to slash 8 tires now, they are truly deserving of at least the back half of a pistol on the noggin (or at least knee-cap or back of the hand) [pistol-whip].

I hope you get to the bottom of that, and have a restraining order placed against him, pop all tires on all of his vehicles, and get a court order for him to repay the cost of replacement of 8 tires. Fuk that. I don't play games when it comes to shit like this.

Anyway, yeah that glob of goo has sanded down nicely and looks good with a fresh coat of paint on it. I'm surprised at the reference point for your line (the top of the corner lens) as opposed to the body line just 2" north. ...either way though, a really interesting paint scheme fo sho. You know though, those seats do look good from that angle too.

There was no other damage to the car, just like last time..... and believe me IF I KNEW who it was he would wish that i called the cops instead of finding him myself. But thats the thing, we have no idea who it is, we know its a customer because of the phone calls he claimed i had wronged him, but this dude is psychotic. He did this shit at 3:00 pm in a busy neighborhood (i work by the beach) and NOONE saw anything. (my work has no cameras in the parking lot and they are pretty lame about the whole thing, so i am speaking to a lawyer about pressing charges against my work if they don't pay for my tires and try to stop this guy) They take it lightly even though he threatened my life (and obviously still has it out for me) and i'm pretty sure i could sue for negligence or some shit

But thanks about my car ^_^ i chose that body line just to be different, and this isn't permanent (its just so my car doesn't look AS crappy) in the long run i will probably paint it either Si blue (that dark one) or the Type r red on DA integras. And the seats rock, btw im still trying to see if my buddy will weld some brackets for you, he is on leave here pretty soon

[JFern]

damn! that sucks bro :(

ya i know, i put another set of wheels on that i had so i could leave, but its still bullshit