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View Full Version : Automatic transaxle seal leaking. Anyone ever change one?



phillie
04-04-2009, 04:06 PM
Took my car to get the alignment done and they said the transaxle seal was leaking on the right side. Anyone ever change one before? Thanks.

Dr_Snooz
04-04-2009, 09:21 PM
Before doing a thing, I'd get under there and verify the problem. Shops like to find work for themselves that doesn't always need to be done. Have you noticed that your fluid level drops? If it doesn't, you don't have a problem.

Changing an axle seal is relatively easy. You pop the lower ball joint and pull the axle. Pry the old seal out with a flat bladed screwdriver. Lightly oil the new seal and tap it in gently. Don't seat the new seal too deep or it will keep the axle from reseating when you put it back.

phillie
04-04-2009, 10:06 PM
I totally understand what you're saying but my friend manages this shop. He even carried over my lifetime alignment from my other vehicle I sold to the current Honda and on top of that he didn't even ask if I wanted them to fix it because he knows better that I would do it on my own.

Actually I asked him to look under there for me since I haven't been able to since I first got it 2-3 weeks ago. He also mentioned my rack and pinion has a small leak (theres the reason why my power steering fluid is low).

Dr_snooz thanks for the heads up. Sounds relatively easy.

mephi
04-05-2009, 01:49 AM
transaxle seal leaks usually start out slow, and you won't notice a difference in fluid level, but they can get really bad all of a sudden. Generally you want to take care of those as soon as you see them. You will probably want to get an oem part for replacement. I haven't had much luck with aftermarket for those, although NAPA isn't too bad.

The job itself is easy. Take the wheel off, and get your friend to zip off the axle nut, pop the lower ball joint, remove the axle from the hub, and pull the axle out enough to pull the old seal out. Just don't pull on the end of the axle. You can separate the CV joints. Remove the old seal with a seal remover or an adequately sized screwdriver. Throw some oil or grease at the new seal, slide/tap it gently into place, put the axle back in VERY carefully (don't damage the seal with the splines). Then slide the axle back into the hub, drop the hub back onto the lower control arm, bolt it all back together, put the wheel back on, and you are good. Some say you should replace the axle nut, but if it isn't too badly damaged, you can just restake it.

phillie
04-06-2009, 07:20 AM
Thanks! Great step by step!

mephi
04-06-2009, 02:33 PM
If you encounter any problems, just ask. Most of the people on here have done these a million times.

Oh, you might want to download the manual too. One of the greatest things about this site.

Dr_Snooz
04-07-2009, 08:38 PM
You don't need to remove the spindle nut by the way.

mephi
04-07-2009, 09:42 PM
I guess you could do it that way. I always take off the spindle nut and completely remove the axle, but I suppose you could save some time by skipping that step and just popping the lower ball joint.

phillie
07-19-2009, 12:25 AM
Well I finally got to doing this and it was a cake walk. Although I had my air tools it was still pretty easy. The hardest part was laying on my back moving around on the ground. The new seal didn't even needed to be hammered in. I actually just pressed it in with my thumb and finger. O.K. well the other hard part was reaching in and out to grab the tranny dipstick to get the reading of how full it was.

niles
06-01-2013, 05:27 PM
So I replaced my axle seal today because the old one was leaking. The new one leaks too, just not as much. I got it from CarQuest, and it went in nicely with a gentle tap. I was careful to evenly tap it in and inserted the CV as carefully as I could.

I hear that all these seals from parts stores are poor quality compared to OEM seals. It sure looks lower quality.

I am thinking either the seal is not tight enough around the CV, or the CV is the problem. See, it is a re-manufactured CV (autozone), so naturally I don't trust it's quality either lol. And of course I do not remember having a leak before I replaced the CV, which was replaced because of a torn boot.

Should I seek out a brand new CV, or try the OEM seal first since it will be cheaper. I am getting tired of tearing apart my front end to get in there, but I'm getting pretty good at it :hmph:

Dr_Snooz
06-01-2013, 06:16 PM
There are a lot of shops with shelves full of 3g parts they purchased back when Michael J. Fox was doing sitcoms. If your "new" seals are from the '80s, they won't seal any better than the '80s seals that are already in your car. I ask stores now about the age of the parts I'm buying now because I've bought too many old seals that leaked.

Also, if you tap the axle seal in too far, it will leak. You don't want to seat it so far that it is riding against the diff. If you do, you'll have trouble re-installing the axle and a very high likelihood for leaks.

niles
06-01-2013, 06:33 PM
I ask stores now about the age of the parts I'm buying now because I've bought too many old seals that leaked.

Also, if you tap the axle seal in too far, it will leak. You don't want to seat it so far that it is riding against the diff. If you do, you'll have trouble re-installing the axle and a very high likelihood for leaks.

Some very good points Dr.

Would you say that making the seal flush with the transmission housing is too far in?

I ordered an OEM seal just in case. I see that they cover a large range of Hondas, so I am hoping they are of fresh manufacture.

Jafir
06-01-2013, 09:13 PM
I've had to "glue" the seals in with Hondabond on the outside edge, especially on 5 speeds. Not so much on autos. If the seal feels like it goes in too easily sometimes it will spin and may fail. I always used OEM seals, but for the most part I used OEM for everything, with just a few exceptions. I think the OEM seals were usually pre-greased on the inside where the inner cv joint rides.

niles
06-03-2013, 05:31 PM
That's good to know Jafir, I didn't know there was a product like that. Where did you find it?

Although I am certain that it is the inner part that is leaking since the seal was such a snug fit. OEM part # 91205-PC9-711 is on the way, shipped today.

Dr_Snooz
06-03-2013, 07:21 PM
Would you say that making the seal flush with the transmission housing is too far in?

That's about where I seat mine.

dieselgus
06-04-2013, 11:53 AM
I typically run a light layer of the green permatex sleeve and bearing retainer on the outside of seals where they contact whatever they press into to keep them in place. Sometimes a slightly loose fitting seal will pop out once things heat up.

Another tip is to run a finger full of grease in the back side of the seal where the little spring is to keep it in there, along with inside the seal groove to prevent any bad rubber-steel friction until some oil seeps in there. I found that my seals on the last 3G easily popped in there by hand as well which I did find a little odd, but they didn't seem to leak (changed out of preventative maintenence as I was changing out the axles at the time and figured feck it, it is apart, may as well drop the $5 on some new seals).

niles
06-12-2013, 10:17 AM
With the OEM seal in place, the transmission still leaks from the CV. So it must be the Reman CV being out of tolerance where the seal contacts it?

The CV is from Autozone and I don't really trust a reman part with a lifetime warranty, something about that just sounds suspicious. I will look into a new one when I get tired of seeing the fine mist of transmission fluid on my rear bumper.