Overheating problem will not go away

[nfs480]

My car, whenever I stop at a stop light or in a parking lot, the temperature gauge on the dash will slowly rise and then it will get about 3/4 of the way up and the cooling fans will kick in before it goes back down to normal.

I have replaced all of the coolant (with Genuine Honda Type 2 Blue) as well as the thermostat (with the warmer one for colder climates), the water pump, a heater hose (was leaking), and have verified no other leaks in system or head gasket problem. I have no idea where to go next. It never does this if I have the slider to select warm/cold air set to cold thus closing off the heater core in the passenger compartment, but even with the outside air being only in the 40's if I don't have heat selected it still does this.

Should I try the colder thermostat (82 degrees celsius) or does anyone have any better ideas. The thermostat I used was a Genuine Honda thermostat and I used the Genuine Honda thermostat gasket.

[ghettogeddy]

did you bleed the system and did you put the tstat in right

[2oodoor]

may need condensor and fins cleaned, or maybe radiator time, along with a sensor for the fan.

[w261w261]

Considering everything that's been done, I vote for new radiator.

[conozo]

thermostat installed in the right direction? Are your fans turning on when the temp starts to rise?

[nfs480]

Fans do turn on when the temp starts to rise, thermostat is installed in the correct direction (same direction illustrated in the factory service manual) with the pin straight up. Yes I did bleed the system until no air bubbles appeared at the bleeder. System is fully topped off with coolant with no leaks. How difficult is it to install a radiator in this car? Especially for me being that my current one has a lot of corrosion around the mounting bolts.

[russiankid]

Your fans are turning on to late. They should turn on around half..or at least in theory. I vote switch and radiator.

[AccordB20A]

i reckon theres no problem at all, the car will heat up when its not moving, thats what the fans are for, they turn on and cool it down again like they should, if the fans dont kick it it will overheat, any cars like that, mine kick in at 3/4 temp. and normal running temp is 1/2 way

you only have a problem if it overheats while driving / when the fans are on

[nfs480]

Is the "TW sensor" related in any way to the fans. Because as of today I have had a check engine light for the second time that read code 6 (coolant temperature sensor). It's only come on twice, once was a few weeks ago and I dismissed it when it went out and stayed off. After turning off and restarting the car today the check engine light is once again off for now.

[AccordB20A]

nah the coolant temp sensor is for the ecu, when the engine coolant is cold the motors runs richer for easy starts etc

[mephi]

One way to check if your radiator is clogged is to drain the system and remove the hoses. Pour water into the top of the radiator. If it takes forever to come out the bottom it is clogged. Replacing the thing isn't all that bad. If you are worried about rusted bolts hit them with PB Blaster or something similar the day before.

[russiankid]

i reckon theres no problem at all, the car will heat up when its not moving, thats what the fans are for, they turn on and cool it down again like they should, if the fans dont kick it it will overheat, any cars like that, mine kick in at 3/4 temp. and normal running temp is 1/2 way

you only have a problem if it overheats while driving / when the fans are on

You're kidding right? The car should not go over half under any circumstances. It going to 3/4th is not right. Mine never even gets to half, and thats with sitting in traffic with A/C on when its 100F+ outside.

[Oldblueaccord]

Could try running without a T-stat let it run full flow and see what that does for you. I'm thinking this is an on going problem ? correct?


wp

[nfs480]

It's an intermittent problem. It doesn't always happen and I can't figure out why. I've already replaced the thermostat once and am preparing to do it one more time to see if it helps.

[russiankid]

I vote radiator.

[w261w261]

Throw a new TW sensor in there if you're getting a code 6. If the sensor is going bad it's going to get progressively harder to start until it won't start at all. It's an easy install and the part is around 20 bucks. It won't solve your problem though.

The post about "that's what the fans are for" is not right. I'm pretty sure you have a crudded-up radiator, which is not doing what it's supposed to. The fans coming on are compensating for that, but do yourself a favor and get a new radiator.

[nfs480]

I've been looking for the TW sensor on Majestic Honda and can't seem to find it. Does anyone have a part number for it by any chance?

[Tdurr]

well after my temp gauge never went past 1/2 untill i pulled the head off in this last month. It goes to a hair over 3/4th then the fan kicks on and drops it back down to 1/2 in like 2 min or less. Only happens when im sitting. Im assuming i have too much water in the antifreeze, and im just gonna get some water wetter here soon. Hopefully that will fix it...

[Tdurr]

I've been looking for the TW sensor on Majestic Honda and can't seem to find it. Does anyone have a part number for it by any chance?
hey just run to autozone or advanced, they have one. make sure they show u pics of it on the computer and u get the one with the smaller tip(on the side that goes in the coolant)

[w261w261]

I've been looking for the TW sensor on Majestic Honda and can't seem to find it. Does anyone have a part number for it by any chance?

I looked for 15 minutes and couldn't find it either. Just call up your local Honda dealer and they'll get one for you. Majestic isn't so good for small orders because they have a per-order charge of 4 or 5 bucks.

[AccordB20A]

You're kidding right? The car should not go over half under any circumstances. It going to 3/4th is not right. Mine never even gets to half, and thats with sitting in traffic with A/C on when its 100F+ outside.

your one of the dudes with the temperature gauge that sits wrong. From my experience theres nippon seiki gauges and denso ones and my digital type, ive had all three in my car, one sits at 1/3 (the one u have) one sits at 1/2 and the digital dash shows exactly half was aswell.

depends on ur gauges, some are electric type coil and others have a piece of metal that heats up and bends and makes the needle move, its dodgy really, but if you "russiankid" were to install the other model of gauge cluster u would see it says 1/2 way on your engine.

Anwhere between cold and before the needle gets into the "red" is fine running temperature and will not hurt the motor at all.

[russiankid]

So then why do all other cars, excluding the Accord, never go passed half? Your engine should not run that hot. I don't know where you're getting this information. I know my gauge is correct because the car ran closer to half before it had a complete cooling system overhaul.

[Tdurr]

^^ i have seen other cars ride a 3/5ths before. It sits normal. Sometimes gauges can be off, but in this case something is off because of the sudden changes.

[russiankid]

My parents Toyota's sat under half, Fords sat under half, Nissan's sat under half. My moms Acura sits tad under half, my BMW sits tad under half. Non of these cars ever went passed that.

[Tdurr]

their cooling systems work fine then. lol. My friends vw sits 3/5ths

[russiankid]

He has either a clogged radiator or lazy fan switch. Its not normal for the car to heat up that much.

[Tdurr]

sure why not.

[AccordB20A]

all the hondas over here i know of run 1/2 way temp on the open road, civics integras etc etc, must be a USDM thing. CVCC motors run a stock 1/2 to 3/4 on the gauge lol

[nfs480]

Mine usually sits around 1/3 when everything is working normal but when it is overheating will get up to around 3/4 before the cooling fans kick in. Where exactly is the fan switch located anyway? Is it that sensor in the bottom of the radiator?

[russiankid]

Mine usually sits around 1/3 when everything is working normal but when it is overheating will get up to around 3/4 before the cooling fans kick in. Where exactly is the fan switch located anyway? Is it that sensor in the bottom of the radiator?

Yes it is.

[nfs480]

That's what I thought. I'm having some problems getting to it because i'm scared to remove the splash guard. Every bolt I remove no longer has any threads left on it because they've turned to dust. I even went out and bought replacements from the Honda dealer and can't get them to screw in. I'm just worried I won't be able to reattach the splash guard after I remove it, any ideas?

[nfs480]

I managed to find the TW sensor on Majestic, it is under "Alternator bracket". I have no idea why they'd put it there, but anyway i've ordered one. Figured i'd post this so other people can find it if they need it.

[Civic Accord Honda]

So then why do all other cars, excluding the Accord, never go passed half? Your engine should not run that hot. I don't know where you're getting this information. I know my gauge is correct because the car ran closer to half before it had a complete cooling system overhaul.

even the cobalt we rented last summer with less then 10k miles on it overheated when we went out to vegas.

so really it depends on what the area is like (hills temp etc)
it also depends on the engine if the car was ran on water alot the internals could be rusted and blocking the cooling passes,

my 3g ran a little over 1/2 when i lived in ridgecrest during summer and when we moved out here it ran 1/3.

my civic runs a little under half never goes over even after i drive the shit out of it ( except when a hose blew then it almost got to the H didnt realize it until we saw steam coming out of the hood at the drive though ).

my 82 accord that had a fully serviced cooling system overheated on the way to Vegas going up the hill. (happened every time we went there .) but it ran fine every where else at a little over 1/2 and would go up to 3/4 going up hills (car had 300k miles on it btw and had to be floored in 2nd to go up most hills)


so yeah all cars run differently.

[conozo]

Another way to tell if your radiator is clogging is if its does not have an even temperature everywhere once the car is warmed up.

[w261w261]

I managed to find the TW sensor on Majestic, it is under "Alternator bracket". I have no idea why they'd put it there, but anyway i've ordered one. Figured i'd post this so other people can find it if they need it.

"ALTERNATOR BRACKET" !@!! Just where you would expect to find it! Jeez!

[w261w261]

That's what I thought. I'm having some problems getting to it because i'm scared to remove the splash guard. Every bolt I remove no longer has any threads left on it because they've turned to dust. I even went out and bought replacements from the Honda dealer and can't get them to screw in. I'm just worried I won't be able to reattach the splash guard after I remove it, any ideas?

They won't screw in because you can't get them started? Or because the hole seems to be stripped? If the female threads are messed up, you can clean them out with a tap from a tap and die set. If they're stripped, you could possibly go one size bigger.

I've had my splash guard off for a year now with no ill effects. I really didn't want to go through the winter without it, but have been chasing an oil leak and it's much easier with the guard off.

[nfs480]

They won't screw in because you can't get them started? Or because the hole seems to be stripped? If the female threads are messed up, you can clean them out with a tap from a tap and die set. If they're stripped, you could possibly go one size bigger.

I've had my splash guard off for a year now with no ill effects. I really didn't want to go through the winter without it, but have been chasing an oil leak and it's much easier with the guard off.

I can't get them started, I bought an entire set of brand new bolts from Majestic and they just spin but won't catch. What exactly is a tap and a tap and die set, i've never used such a thing.

[w261w261]

A tap and die set will make threads, either male or female. They can be very expensive if professional quality, but in a consumer version aren't much. The tap will cut threads in a hole, or in your case can "refresh" threads that are rusted out, maybe leaving you enough to put the new bolts in. Go to Autozone or whatever and ask them for a tap and die set. Always good to have one around anyway.

[russiankid]

Also, use some anti-seize on the bolts. I had some snap off before. Then I used some anti-seize and haven't had one snap off yet.

[88Accord-DX]

I forgot there was even a splash guard there under the radiator, mines been missing since day one.
Anyhow, on tap & die sets, get the metric size set. If the bolt breaks off, buy a set of drill bits for about $10. Drill & tap er' out. Anti-seize is good too.

That sensor on the bottom of the radiator can be tested, it supposed have continuity between both terminals when it reaches like 195 degrees or something.

[w261w261]

Also, use some anti-seize on the bolts. I had some snap off before. Then I used some anti-seize and haven't had one snap off yet.

Particularly good to use on spark plugs.

[88Accord-DX]

Particularly good to use on spark plugs.
I think he is trying to refer to using it in the new bolts where the splash guard is at. It is most important on the spark plugs threads.

Probably need to apply it on any low lying bolt on the suspension if you remove it & install it. That is if your keeping the car for any time.

[w261w261]

If you could find a small wire brush - like a bottle brush - something that would go into the holes, you might be able to start squirting some penetrating oil in the hole, then sticking the brush in and turning it around. It might get the crud out of the threads. I'm referring to a brush like they sell at auto stores to clean off the battery clamps and posts. The brush has a spiral kind of wind.

[russiankid]

Particularly good to use on spark plugs.
I have high temp anti-seize for the spark plugs, but regular for everything else.

I think he is trying to refer to using it in the new bolts where the splash guard is at. It is most important on the spark plugs threads.

Probably need to apply it on any low lying bolt on the suspension if you remove it & install it. That is if your keeping the car for any time.

Yep.