Where to buy new CV drive axle?

[kevins89lxi]

My passenger side cv drive axle is popping really bad on turns and I want to know where is a good place to get a quality new one? How hard is it to change out the old one for the new? Thanks for the help!!!

[Dutchboy]

i think that everyone suggests buying a new genuine honda one becasue most of the other replacements seem to be crap and go in another fewthousand miles....
Buy the one from honda

Ben

[ACCORD EX]

changing is easy ! only the hub nut ( spindle nut 32 mm ) will take the shit outa of you to break loose , you 'll need a breaker bar ) also you'll have to drain your tranny oil ! ( some people don't but i don't know how ! )
anyway get HONDA genuine ones !
they are available online @ www.hondaautomotiveparts.com

good luck !


MIKE

[POS carb]

you'll need an assortment of 10, 12, 14, 17mm sockets/wrenches and a 32 mm socket for the axle, a heavy duty flathead or flat-ended tire iron to pop the axle out of the trans and probably a pan and some tranny oil to replace it if it starts pouring out of the hole. You should use a very strong ratchet on the 32mm hub nut (don't forget to pry the little indentation out of it to allow it to spin... you'll know what I mean when you see it) and possibly a pipe to make the handle longer and apply more force. In extreme cases you'll need to apply heat (one of my axle nuts broke a new 1/2 inch drive Husky ratchet) :flame:

<edit> oh I forgot, when installing the new one position the spline in the transmission and rock it back and forth a little to get it in good and then set the axle straight (make sure it's not bending at the boot) and with a large rubber mallet (or a 2x4 and a big hammer) hit the axle squarely to pop it in the trans. To check tug on it by the inner part of the shaft... if you pull from the outside you can damage the spider in the boot. Give it a firm tug or two, if it doesn't come out easy it's alright. <edit>

[HondaBoy]

i can agree wit them about saying get a genuine honda part but i went to Pepboys to get my CV axles replaced. i did this about 3 or 4 months ago. mine started like 4 years ago on the right side and then the left one started clicking. then finaly the right one started to get worse and shake alot. i replace it cuz my friend had the same problem and his locked up. it sent him spinning into a light post and totaled the car. this can also damage the suspension, engine and transmission if u dont also wreck the car. i would recommend replacing it as soon as possible. the ones i got installed at Pepboys are working fine and i dont have anymore shaking or poping noised because they r new. it cost me $278.54 automatic tranny all complete.

[smufguy]

my mechanic doe sit for $150 which includes the part and the labor.

[smufguy]

oh yeah, its a factory rebuilt shaft. my mechanic used to work for honda, so stuff is cheap with him, he even tuned my engine for free. :) nice guy.

[ACCORD EX]

i've also heard about this life time warranty shaft ! they always get replaced whenever shot ! some one bought them on the board ! don't remember who ! :(


MIKE

[bigpoppa88]

Lifetime warranty on the shaft is just the hook to get you to buy it, I don't see how the "shaft will wear out. The bearings on the spiders at each end are the felons that are guilty when the CV joint takes a dive. Those in the "Know" correct me if I'm wrong (I'm no mechanic) but it stands to reason to me.

[89lxi95zx7]

i had both done for $289, the place had it done in 4hrs.

[smufguy]

for a CV joint to go bad, or the only time u change a CV joint is because of the rubber cover near ur tires that have grease in em gets torn and all the lubricant goes out allowing dust and sand to get in and grind the joint.

Bigpoppa, i dont know what CV joint ur talking about, but our 3g do not have a bearing on the spiders. We just have spiders that go into a spindle which is either bearing moved or other wise. U can do ur own CV joint repair following the manual, all it takes is just packing the lubricant (like moly) and putting on a new rubber casing over the joint. Doing it yourself might be a lil hard, but you sure can do it foloowing the given instructions on ur chelton or haynes manual. or the shop manual from Paul's website.

[smufguy]

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1989&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=DRIVESHAFT


and the rubber thing is called the rubber boot or CV boot. and yeah, thats the website for the CV joint aka drive shaft.

[kevins89lxi]

A new on e at the hondaautomotive site cost like 256 dollars! Am i reading that wrong? Let me know that is a lot of cash for that part.
Kevin

[njpeter]

1-don't train tranny oil, just put the car on stands on the side your're working on.
2-ball joint fork to release lower BJ ( get a new boot, you'll need it), get the big nut off first
3-remove brake caliper from mount before attmpting axle removal
4, using a flat bladed scredriver ( or other sophisticated tool) pry cv joint from tranny side about a half inch.

I've found that when the boot is broken, the joint will fail, the boot breaks for a number of reasons including high temp on the joint ( sign of impending failure). If youwatch your boots ( I do these days) you can use a boot kit if you replace it quick

boot kits only go so far, and it's a royal pain to clean the joint and regrease on the car.

Biggest problem after the big nut is getting the BJ/off

it's not as bad as something I've done..well I'll be doing my first auto trans ion a few weeks..that's gonna be pretty bad for me