Auto tranny problems

[YK86]

Well, after changing out the bearing and balljoints, I took the 88 out for a spin. The car is still shuddering at take off. It has nothing to do with the stuff I changed the other day. It was already doing it but I thought the squeeky bearing had finally had enough and was causing it to seize for a second after coming to a full stop.

It only does it after coming to a complete stop and taking off again. It's like something is seizing up somewhere. Weird thing is, it only does it at take off if the shifter is in D4 or D3. It's totally normal at 2. R is fine too. Once you take off, it's back to normal. It also seems to get worse as the tranny warms up. I checked the drain plug and there was no metal shavings stuck on the magnet and the fluid is genuine Honda ATF. I wouldn't be surprised if it was the tranny since it is higher mileage. But since I don't know how auto's work internally, I don't know if this is fixable or not and why it's fine in 2 but not in D3 or D4. I have an extra tranny so if worst comes to worst, I'll just swap it in but it would be nice if I can fix it. Both the throttle and shifter cables are set properly.

[A20A1]

Funny thats how my car is... when it died and I tried to drive the car again... only 2nd and Reverse would work the rest of the gears would act up. I really doubt its the fluid... I think I messed something up by over reving the engine... cause D4 already had problems reving past 3,000 rpm even while travling above 60mph

[YK86]

Hmm....my GF was driving it when it happened (it's her car now) and I know she wouldn't bag on it so I'm still trying to figure out why it suddenly happend. But I guess things happen for no reason sometimes. And after reading over the manual, 2 stays only in 2nd gear and does not downshift or upshift which explains why it's okay in that gear. So I guess something is wrong with 1st gear.

[jteuton]

hey Yk86.....if you come down here and see me.....we'll load my auto on your trailor/truck and you can take it home with you free of charge.....and It still works good (97k) miles on it

[POS carb]

check the fluid for a pinkish color which usually means the "cooler" in the raid. is leaking. Also make sure the level is correct and try messing with the TV cable. I hope you aren't in the same situation as me :toilet:

[DanG86LX]

Same thing when up shifting to 2nd. From troubleshoot table, probably my 2nd clutch is faulty.
Have a Service Manual? I was impressed how well documented AT is.
When I get home i'll look up for ur problem..

[YK86]

I have the service manual too. The troubleshooting section just tells me it's internal. And thanks for the offer Jteuton but I have a spare one in the garage from the 86. Plus Tennessee is quite a drive from Vancouver LOL.

[Immeraufdemhund]

were at in TN?

[89lxi95zx7]

My auto tranny slams kinda hard when it shifts.(no slippege,no delayed shifting)whats the deal?

[Mantis88LX]

a hard shifting tranny is a good one

[YK86]

I'm going to pull the tranny out with the engine since I don't feel like wasting time diagnosing stuff because it's going to be internal anyways so thanks for the suggestions. It's a good chance to repaint the block while the engine is out since the Plastic-cote paint is flaking off. Plus I find it easier to pull the whole thing at once anyways.

[rocky2]

YK86,

Don't pull the trans, man! Do like POS CARB says. You may have altered the height of trans with the ball joint,bearing change out. Just go in-out with adjustments "OUT ON ROAD" on the fly so to say and see how it shifts.

[YK86]

It was doing it before the ball joint and bearings were changed but I thought the main cause was the bearing seizing up. So I spent alot of time adjusting things and making sure everything on the outside of the tranny was okay and taking it for probably 20 road tests but it still does it. I don't feel like wasting more time since I have lots of things I need to finish.

[njpeter]

Well folks..I'm back..with a new challange..a tranny failure..I see a 1-2 shift failure looks common, and this car shuddered from day one..wife complained of a hammering noise last night that "went away" ( yeah right) well tonight she says witha long face...tranny problem, it's shifting really hard into second. I put honda fluid in the damm thing last month also..so I assume it's simpler to pulll the engine and tranny together...at least I didn't do the timing belt..I was planning on it...think how fast that work goes with the engine out of the car. Worst part is the car has got good working r-12 a/c..and I don't see how I'll pull the engine without opening up the a/c. I won't bother draining the fluid..just pissing money away eh? I hate auto tranny failre..I can almost buy a car for what a tranny shop wants..think I can swing it in and out on a weekend? I'm pretty sure that heavy hammering sound the wife reported was something verty very bad inside the tranny..I might try driving the car to work ( mostly highway ) for a while..the engine is the sweetest thing you could imagine for a 150k accord. tips good wishes or other tranny tips appreciated..I see a rebuild kits goes for around $150 and I _still have that other junker DX_..so maybes...

1-pull engine and tranny out of the wifes car
2-install the tranny off teh junker
3-change the timing belt
4-drop it back in
5-hope it works?

anybody got a working auto tran in Northern NJ?

:banghead:

[YK86]

Sorry to hear about that. I find it takes the same amount of time to pull both out with less hassles compared to separating the two and dropping the tranny down. I actually got both out in two hours this time (mind you, it's the third time doing it on the 88). This is the way I always pull both (less work, quick removal and install)
1)Disconnect the battery and remove it and then disconnect all hoses, lines, linkage (5 speed), harness plugs, etc and drain the tranny fluid and coolant.
2)Separate the down pipe from the manifold and disconnect the auto shifter cable from the shifter and take out the two 10mm bolts above the exhaust (faster than taking it out of the tranny side)
3)Get the driver's side ball joint out of the lower arm and crank the steering wheel all the way to the right. You can get the whole thing to swing out enough to pop the driver's side axle out of the tranny.
4)Remove the hood and take out the nuts for the mounts
5)Use an engine hoist and jack it up so the engine side is higher than the tranny side (almost a 45 degree angle).
6)At a certain point, the tranny will be high enough and on an angle enough that you can pop the passenger side axle out of the tranny.
7)Keep jacking up, and once it's clear, drop on the ground.

Install is the opposite of removal. I love this method since I don't have to do any axle removing (from the hub) and crap like that. The whole suspension except for the driver's side lower balljoint can stay where it is which saves ALOT of time. I actually have pics from when I did it when installing the rebuilt engine in the 88 last year (I should put up a how-to).

[njpeter]

actually this will be my first time pulling an engine on an accord..did a civic once when I worked at a dealer...poor guy was towing it behing a huge motorhome ( cheap ass should have bought a dolly) and had some stuff in the car ( the motor home was HUGE mind you) so he reaches into the glove box and nicks the stick into first gear. Needless to say imagine what 40 miles running at 60-70 mph in first gear did to that poor civic ( of course he noticed some drag, but hought it was headwind.)

Did I mention the car had only 20,000 miles on it?

I'm still pissed about the tranny failure..this was the ebay car I bought..damm thing came from an original owner too...last time I every buy one sight unseen ( unless it was like the jumker DX I got for $1.50 on a bizzare sunday "buy it now" lisitng)...I may use that tranny if I can't find a known good one. Looks like the going junkyard rate may not be too bad...But I'll look for a runing car first..couple of cheapiues came and went, but I'm outta driveway space at the moment.

I apprecaite the tips,,I'm sure there are a few others..but I am going to check the kickdown cable first just for :-)