my car update picks

[mykwikcoupe]

Well after some 4 years with not much future progress Ive finally started making way. Theres a ton of little engine details mostly just putting it back together. Im trying to get it road ready by the 19th for the Portlan #geez meet. Well have to wait and see how I actually do.

A few days ago i was impressed with myself. i was able to complete the intake installation (as easy as it may seem). Its a Edelbrock Victor X intake with a stock B18c TB installed on it. Ive got one of those amulinim pulley hardware pieces on the TB inkage for some odd reason. i honestly cannot remember why. The fuel rail is stock, Injectors are the same but turns out te banjo nut for the Bseries fuel rail is different from the accords, preludes, civic and other engine Ive checked at the JY. Thats about all that missing on the intake.

The exhaust was pretty straight forwars thanks to roodoo. He sent me a stock B20a header after i tossed BOTH of mine thinking i would never use them agaion since I was going turbo manifolds. Im hoping the stock exhaust (a20a3) bolts to the header of the B20a otherwise Ill have to get some parts welded up. I do need to get a secong O2 sensor installed on the back side of the engine for the 4-wire sensor Im planning on using with the B20a and OBD1 swap.

The colling system seemed to never end as I pilaged it time after time for other accord Ive had over the years. the hoses (heater and radiator) went on my hatch after the headgasket swap. The fan switch went onto a sedan I had for a while. the rubber holder bits disappeared in a box with all the other small bits I cannot find anyplace.

The vac system is alot easier now that 90% of it is gone. All Ive got is a 1/8in line for the criuse control, fuel pressure regulator and the 1/2 line for the brake booster, 3/8 line for the pcv system. No black box nothing. Even still the engine bay is gawd awful ugly. The way the coolant hoses route just look cluttered and nasty but that my opinion.

I tackled the brakes today. I swapped the LX-I prop valve for the SE-I prop valve finally some 5 years after the brake swap. Its ok though its only seen a good 1000 miles anyways. The aem big brake kit I bought of rob a few years is finally off the shelf, cleaned up and getting installed. I had them all shiny and hanging awaiting black paint on the inner hib when i decided i couldnt live with myself if I covered up the AEM badging and the bling factor of the aluminum. The CNC brackets rob had made sure helped the job go alot smoother as well. talk about plug and play. It was just as easy as doing a brake pad set. I installed a set of stainless steel brake lines i bought off bitesize when he wrecked his red hatch all of 3 years ago I think. I didnt make it to the rears yet. That will be a tommorrow job as here in washington we have high humidity and the temps are finally above doom and gloom so its been a scorcher outside all day. I dont get much wind or shade at my place so its a rough road.

Oh and my favorite, suspension. I pulled the spring springs off the konis tonight and installed the ground controls i bought off Angus forever ago. The swap is pretty straight forward. it took me longer to do the prelude arms with inglass camber kit than to get the springs swapped over. Im challenging cody to a battle of the lowered accords. Since he can no longer compete I guess i win by default. Sorry bro but you really are a great competitor. Its not quite slammed by my standards but low enough for me. The tape measure says the mud flaps are an inch off the ground and the body less than 3. I havent had a chance to run the car and settle the struts since the engine doesnt work yet. Ill do the rears tomorrow and get a nice full body pic. The 16in rims that are on it in the pics arent the ones Im keeping. Ive got a nice new set of 18's Ill pop on it for the meet. Till teh Ill probably try them on before the final wash. I wish I had time to install my poly bushings and suspension techniques sway bars but with everything else going on they just arent on my highest priority list. I love working on these cars so it will give me a chance to pull it apart again in the not so distant future.

Cleaning. Oh man i do love this part but only if the car cooperates with me. Ive seen pics of angus's car and it just looks like it rooled off the showroom floor. Same with roach and pico. I can only iomagine how clean jeans is. I tried to scrub with simple green concentrated and even with simple green max gbut the undercoating just will not turn the nice new balck. It has the brown/black tint to it. tyhe plastics turned out ok, the steel suspension is not working at all. 3 different type of brushes and nothing. the 1st time the rinse water was disgusting. After that not much at all. Its clean and no heavy deposits but I cannot get the newness to come back. i do not want to repaint yet as time doesnt allow and I believe nothing is as nice as stock paint anyways. The undercarraige, wheel wells and such Ide say are a strong 7 maybe a mid 8 on the scale to 10. Super clean but not shiny and new. If I have to illpull out the kerosene fired pressure washer and the heavy chemicals but theyre not much fun to work with. Great on old chevy engine grease though.

Well i wish i could put a caption under each pic but heres whats Ive got for today. if anyone want anything lese please feel free to ask.
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/387/img00364v.th.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00364v.jpg)
This is the stock fender clearance with the sprint springs before i did anything
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6545/img00365e.th.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00365e.jpg)
its huge I know. Itll be changinging shortly
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/3984/img00366s.th.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00366s.jpg)
its the shocker, no really just clowning
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/506/img00367j.th.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00367j.jpg)
no clowning on the ugly ass garage either
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2538/img00369h.th.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00369h.jpg)
a little comparision for the AEM brake kit for later
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/8983/img00372c.th.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00372c.jpg)
this is the soft line brakes and sprint springs
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9458/img00374f.th.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00374f.jpg)
old vs new. i really thought it was going to be a larger comparision in size ratio. I brought the rotors in to have them turned and they guy said theyre perfect. Since my pads have a few miles on them (less than 500) I didnt bother paying 30 bucks for nothing but shiny rotors. Ill hit the brakes and theyll be good as new. they dont appear shiny and heat soaked in real life.
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/2585/img00375.th.jpg (http://img268.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00375.jpg)
after AEM kit install. Some of you may notice the new invisible calipers i installed while I was at it. they sure are a pretty penny but the results are well worth it. Im planning on using these till I get the originals painted and put back on
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/1731/img00378.th.jpg (http://img268.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00378.jpg)
something for the ones who care what a set of prelude arms set all the way out and a ingalls camber kit at mave push. the tire sits outwards at the lowest suspension drop possible. Id say Ive got more than enough room for changes. With the prelude arms set all the way in towards the body and the camber kit on full extention its just about right.
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/9861/img00380.th.jpg (http://img268.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00380.jpg)
Its on cody, lets see what you got/had. Sorry man just want you to go buy your old car back is all. Im sure this doesnt help much. nyways I hope the captions worked. Who knows maybe nothing works around here. I know i dont.

[MessyHonda]

nice update....so you are bringing this car right?

[Civic Accord Honda]

me thinks this is the first time ive seen a pixor of ur accord looks real clean and i want ur brakes

[mykwikcoupe]

no way this si the first. I know i dont update much But I try to flaunt its total glory as often as possible. The interior still needs the dash swapped and Illpost more pics of that. i seriously dont think there is a grain of dirt in the car. The drivers seat is a little worn but otherwise my favorite mod. Yeah Jesse this is the car I hope to bring. Otherwise itll be my white hatch. the work car. Oh man is it ugly (stock i mean).

[MessyHonda]

cool stuff...im also trying to get stuff together...i want to see this thing in person

[mykwikcoupe]

Im a little nevous. i got the new axles installed. As I was pushing the car back into the garage the gears in the trans were'nt meshing very well. Even in neutral you couldhere them trying to bind and slip. i dont have any fluid in the transmission yet since I just got the xxles in today. When i had it apart i checked everything, went through as much as i could and replaced as much as was avaiable at that time for seals and bearings. The axles were a bit of a pain to get into the quaife unit but as long as they work Ill be extra happy.

Ill top it off tomorrow and see if it helps any. Im also concerned on the pressure plate,. Its the heaviest spring act carries for the 88-91 prelude si and its tight as hell. Like tot he iont I cannot pull up the lever by hand. I never had an issue with the stock unit. Im sure everything is fine and Im just being anal. i tend to over think ad worry about non issues. Im sure it would look even better with a CF hood on it as well jesse. Hint hint. no its cool i think Im shipping them through greyhound round trip less than a 100 bucks.

[Rendon LX-i]

Damn bro....looks so clean im jelious

[LX-incredible]

God I hated crawling under the car with the brush and degreaser. Hands were cracked weeks after. Worth it though, it's the only car i can work on without getting my hands dirty. The undercoating is always going to retain that brownish tinge... it's tar based. I cleaned the shit out of mine with driveway cleaner, to the point of where the undercoating started eroding away... still brownish. I recoated mine and painted with flat black. It's held up great. Be careful, the driveway cleaner will really start to soften and crack that shit if it's left on too long.

Could you post larger pics? the thumbnail links aren't working for me.

[mykwikcoupe]

http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/9861/img00380.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/1731/img00378.jpg
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/2585/img00375.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9458/img00374f.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/8983/img00372c.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/2538/img00369h.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6545/img00365e.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/3984/img00366s.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/506/img00367j.jpg
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/387/img00364v.jpg

[mykwikcoupe]

Didnt have a whole lot of time today so far but i think Im going back out in a few minutes. I started off my day on a nice long motorcycle ride in the brisk cool air of the morning. Of course that meant by the time i got home it was well into the 70's but the good news is i had a UPS package waiting for me on the doorstep. In this package was one of the most beautiful pieces Ive bought on the site.

I ordered on of LX-Incredible's wiring harnesses. I was a little hesititant that I could properly explain what it was I wanted and how i wanted it done. Not only did he go so far into depth of knowledge that i had do more research but he did it in such a way the professionalism is outstanding. Every connector looks near new. The wires are tight and loom looks better than factory. He did everything just as I had asked and was such a cool guy he even tossed in a few sensors I was planning on deleting on my swap. If I was to order a kit or have any other upgrades done this is by far the first place I would go. Thank you very much Angus and Ill be testing it out tonight. The only downfall Ive found is the sensor clip on the 4 wire O2 sensor is broken off inside the housing. Its not anything I cannot work around. He provided me with a cover for the power steering clip just in case I didnt need or opt to use it. A jumper harness from the stock ciol location to the new OBD1 internal ciol dizzy. The ecu jumper harness, and all the little goodies in between.
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3415/img00381d.jpg
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/4545/img00382i.jpg
http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/65/img00383b.jpg
as youi can see all the clips are labelled and ready to go. Outstanding work. this guy can do anything

[codyJDM]

Before I start telling you how great your car is and how impressed I am, I wanna make sure you know my mudflaps sat on the ground and my front tow hook was and inch or so away from the ground ;)

This is awesome man! Your car is coming along great. I'm definitely feeling everything you've done so far :) Keep it up :cheers:

[2ndGenGuy]

Brakes are looking good man. Can't wait to see it in person! Keep up the good work!

[mykwikcoupe]

ok so the suspension is as close as I feel like getting it beofre the meet. I still need to swap in all the poly bushings but thats too much of a chore right now with everything else going on. The brakes are all pulled off and Ill be rebiulding and painting them this weekend. These are the new shoes Ive always preached about. I knew they were going to look good but I never thought this good. Cody, man how did you drive your car, off the bumpstops or no struts just straight springs. That must have been unbearable. You win, Im not going that low. the cost of bearings and axles will eat me alive. Oh and Im not sure how many times its been said but the rear sei stainless lines are a joke. One is too short, the other too long.... Youll see.
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/7467/img00394.th.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00394.jpg)
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/7861/img00396.th.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00396.jpg)
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/5328/img00399.th.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00399.jpg)
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/3288/img00398.th.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00398.jpg)
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/1747/img00400d.th.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00400d.jpg)
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/3759/img00401u.th.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00401u.jpg)
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/3550/img00402.th.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00402.jpg)
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/2500/img00403.th.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00403.jpg)
http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/412/img00405.th.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00405.jpg)
sorry for the crappy cell pics but the wife wont let me hold the nice camera when Ive been working on a car. the D50 is a little too costly and the piont and shoot is too small to clean. This will be the last update till sun since Im going back out of town but hopefully sun Ill have the wiring done, calipers done and reinstalled. Maybe Ill even get to snap a few pics of the current engine. Most of these pics are posted just in case this car doesnt make it down there either due to mechanical issues or otherwise. I need the chip from speedfactory and Ill be able to test next week. Im getting so excited

[LX-incredible]

Word. I had to bend the hard line and the brackets for the technafit rear caliper lines. Works fine now, bullshit that they couldn't give that extra inch though.

[Rendon LX-i]

man i love wheels alot more then the grey one you had. Cant wait to see that thing in person...i love how you have the ground controls...damn you

[mykwikcoupe]

well rendon Im not sure how long youve followed me on the boards. Basically i used to buy every part that came my way. Ive got alot of stuff the newer guys could only dream and some parts nobody or very few have. Unfortunatly for me but a good thing for the rest of the board there has been alot more parts from newer generations sourced to fit the car. I guess this means my extra sets of konis are no good with Ksports out. the jdm parts I paid out the nose for years ago people are getting on the cheap from aaron now adays. I just hope i get to the meet and back with no worries. theres alot of parts for me to get and a few to drop off. Id like to have it done early and log a few miles on it beofre I go but Im not sure if that is going to be a reality for me. That day counter your hving so much fun with is like chinese torture to me.

[Rendon LX-i]

Umm...well you might have to put those up for sell bro..ill take em off your hands lol.....i always knew your from the b20 turbo..but no pics..im like damn this guy lol..im like i want to meet this guy some day..i should of dropped by i alwasy went that way..o well...this time it well be legit meet.

[mykwikcoupe]

Ok i told myself i was going to wait till monday to start crackin at the wiring. Well if anyone here has really met and gotten to know me, projects and activities come way before sleep anyday. Im known to pull 40+hr shifts on my own time and at work if asked. Who needs sleep anyways.

Ok back on track...The wiring Angus biult for me is absolutly second to none. Every length is near perfect. It probably would be perfect if it wasnt for my edelbrack intake not having any mounting positions. The injector harness is a little tight and Im sure its because of the drop on the back side of the engine bay. I also cannot use the dogbone mount as a wiring support since I havent modified it yet to fit under the intake manifold Ive got. I need to strap it to the black box engine vent and again under the TB and itll be great. I will say the Bseries fuel rails suck. The studs are further out than the stock accord mounts so the 90 degree connector hits the fuel rail. Ill have to study aftermarket rails and see which one I can get fast and will work in my situation.

For those that care, this harness wasnt just a rebiuld. I had asked it to be converted and changed in many ways. The EACV that is usually on the front of the intake was moved to the rear section of the intake just behind the TB. The IAT sensor is no longeron the drivers side of the intake but positioned on the back, bottom side of the intake between ports 2-3. The OBD1 conversion prompted the need of added wiring to the harness for simple reasons. I had him upgrade the alternator wiring a size all the way to the battery. He also deleted the temp sensor on top of the T-stat housing leaving just the TW sensor as the JDM B20A doesnt have an extra sensor located in this position. He also moved the O2 sensors from the front of the engine bay to the rear under the intake manifold and made it a true 4 wire sensor. I did this so I can use the stock sensor for a future wideband location. He added vtec wiring as well incase the motor doesnt fulfill my current needs and it gets a more modern swap insteadin the future. For my own needs, my car came as an automotic meaning the reverse switch moved from the shifter to the transmission housing. He added those wires to the harness and routed them through an extra port on the firewall for me. He made me a jumper harness that moves the external coil into the dizzy and I didnt have to move any factory supports. I decided to ditch my boomslang conversion harness for his as he knows all the wiring that he ran better than anyone. I believ his harness to be of better quality as the wiring is color coded. his work is absolutly top notch. Im not sure if hes planning on mass producing these harnesses in the future but hes the man.

I didnt feel like pushing the car back outside for pics so youll just have to wait. With the coil removed, the black vac box out of the way, the wiring routed in such a way to clean up alot of old sensors, the removal of other sensors this engine bay is actually looking pretty damn clean and tidy. I wish I could ditch the heater hoses and PS line and Id be happy but there no way thats going to happen with the average yearly temp in the 40's where I live.

[ZackieDarko]

geeze man! good progress

last time i saw that car it had no motor and a bumper on the roof

[mykwikcoupe]

it has a thule carrier on the roof now. Not too much has changed. The car was a place of storage for the better part of 3 years. im debating after its done do i kick its ass outside and get some garage space back or keep it safe and inside. i dont live in a high crime area and i wouldnt be too worried about it. After paint and tint well see how much attention it draws.

[mykwikcoupe]

ok after pondering out of town for a few days how I was going to proceed on the project this week I decided to paint the calipers calipers with duplicolor caliper paint. This product sucks ass. i would not recommend this at all. I painted it after I had scrubbed 3 different times. The calipers were in great condition afterward the cleaning. On the way home the calipers scuffed, peeled and got trashed. They had dried overnight and now they need a redo.

I stopped by the JY today and grabbed a clutch cable from a 91 civic. It fits the firewall but lacks the rubber grommet to hold it in tight. Im sure by the time I tighten the cable down on the transmission itll hold itself in place. The nice part is I dont have to trim the 93 teg clutch cable and its even shorter. ill snap pics tonight after the installation is done.

I found a fuel rail nut for my b16 rail finally and I grabbed a map sensor of a newer acura intergra. It a firewall mount and should look pretty clean. Im going tio run outside and see how much I can get completed tonight.

My basemap is in route. Speedfactory out of tacoma (james) set it up for me. Its a non vtec b20a crv map modified for my engine. i dont have a wideband but the O2 sensor should compensate for any misgivings. Look for a pic post late tonight or early tomorrow.

[mykwikcoupe]

Ok well like I said i cant leave well enough alone. i got a quick few minutes and figured id spend them on the engine bay instead. Let me know what you think. You can see the civic clutch cable is seated but no boot or the boot rotted off which i doubt because the cable looks new but dirty. The transmission side took a quick second with a razor knife to seat in the arm other than that it took me 4 minutes to remove the old and install the new. I like the routing but Im sure Ill be moving other things around to try and relieve some clutter. the OBD1 swap really helps the ugly on these engine bays.
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/3395/img00409.th.jpg (http://img25.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00409.jpg)
this distance pic gives a relative easy of how it looks. the cble has a small bend where it meets the firewall and gives the prefect angle to stock routing on the bracket
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/1024/img00410.th.jpg (http://img25.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00410.jpg)
closeup, yep no seal so ill either have to putty it in with some rubber putty or just dont go wild with the pressure washer in this area at the car wash next time. Its tucked up in such a way I doubt any water would get in but Id be sure there will be wind niose and smell from the engine so i cant just leave it be. Maybe Ill see if I can find a way to slip the stock boot back over it somehow.
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/1341/img00411j.th.jpg (http://img25.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00411j.jpg)
Dont flame me based on dirt and debris. Its been 4 years it was cleaned and it did sit outside for over a year. Itll get a good cleaning gain before it heads down the road (if ever). Notice the cable routing is all even and I no longer have that stray cable going out to the radiator for the transmission
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/1840/img00412.th.jpg (http://img25.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00412.jpg)
I still think this section of the engine bay needs alot of work. if I could delete the heater hoses and maybe reroute the PS line it would look better but till then Ill have to live with it. Maybe when Im done it wont draw so much of my attention
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/7981/img00413.th.jpg (http://img25.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00413.jpg)
This is the adjustment on a used cable and flywheel. I resurfaced the flywheel a bit to make sure my matting surface was excellent. The Pressure plate and clutch disc are both new act units for the 88-91 prelude si. The disc is the heavy duty full disc with springs. When i ordered it they olny had unsprung pucks and no way am i driving an unsprung on the street. The pressure plate is also the HD line. Its the toughest of the 3 they offer. Im not sure if i reassembled the transmission wrong or the plate springs are that togh buit man it takes alot of force to push in the dick to release. Ill find out on startup hopefully by the end of the week.
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/1542/img00414.th.jpg (http://img25.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00414.jpg)
Backside of the intake and such. Im not going to have time to fabricate the dogbone mount to the firewall so Ill just be going with the lower rear mount, front mount and belt side mount for the time being. the rear upper mount will be next on my list major tasks.
http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/7441/img00415.th.jpg (http://img25.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00415.jpg)
Heres the opposite side. The mapo sensor will get routed to the firewall and Im not sure if you can see any of the new wiring from LX-Incredible but its fantastic!!! Just behind the intake manifold there is a empty boot originally and I had him route a bunch or wiring through it for me. He provided with a prefect fit replacement boot and the lengths of wire are pefect. Im sure Ive stated before but I am sooooo cvery impressed with his work. Ill be ordering another harness for my B18c hatch project down the line.

Thats about it for this post. I keep my phone on me all the time and I cant stand pausing on a project for pics, bathroom breaks or band aids so all you guys get ois crappy phone pics. If it makes it to the meet Im sure other will take much better pics of it. Hopefully it lives up to the expectations Ive tauted over the last few years.

[2oodoor]

wow, I wish I lived closer, you look like you could use some help but Id have to get you drunk so you would pass out and I could get some of that :thumbup:work finished.. hah ha jK
very nice project there

[LX-incredible]

Looks great!

I'm had some issues with the beck arnely clutch cable from cockauto, now I have the cracking stocker and need to get another oem. Does the civic fit no problem and is it actually shorter? What year civic?

[mykwikcoupe]

very much shorter, id say at least 18 inches maybe 2 ft. I did a visual comparision and didnt measure. Its even shorter than the 90-93 intgra cable carotman has. I did pull the teg cable as well to compare all 3 and the firewall mount cover on the teg is freakin huge. probably 30% larger in diameter than the accord. The civic was a 92-95 style but I didnt check the year for sure. Im going back and will get the info for sure.

Roodoo if you could out drink me Id be surporsed. Its only happened once or twice in 28 years. Both by seperate people and both sent me to the hospital getting my stomach pumped trying to keep up. Id love to have help or just hang out.

[BITESIZE]

It's about damn time son!

[mykwikcoupe]

Ok another quick update but oics to follow tomorrow when i pull the car back out of the garage. I spent the better part of my weekend rebiulding all the stock calipers and painting them with black caliper paint. Im very unimpressed with this stuff. My calipers were spotless and scrubbed and looked great only they were not black. I used the spray and this may be my undoing but in transport after over 48 hours dry time ever place the new paint touched another piece of metal the paint on both pieces broke off and started flaking. They didnt clang or anything as they were wrapped up seperatly but I have to pull them back off and repaint them again. Maybe this time Ill use the brush on stuff or have them powdercoated.

The pedal feel is great and the old brake fluid was definatly stock and original fluid. Oh it was dirty. I went through a full quart flushing and another pint bleeding. Its pretty and pedal feel is amazing.

The engine is 93% ready to fire. I tried to check for error code off the obd1 swap but I must be doing something wrong. i idnt get any and I have the O2 sensor unplugged so this should throw error code 1 for the sensor and 41 for the heater. The small drivers side fan kicks on as well all the time unless the key is on but it may be due to the ack of heater cluster installed at the moment.

Ill be going tomorrow and getting the exhaust welded and itll be time to turn the key to see what happens in the old girl.

[Rendon LX-i]

sounds good bro...pumped to see your whip

[LX-incredible]

The fan coming on like that seems strange to me. I'll look into it.

[mykwikcoupe]

well I dont know what causes it but after I drive my hatch and its warm the fan will turn on after the key is removed for a fewminutes. Im guessing this may be what it is but I havent left it on long enough to actually check to see if it turns off. The radiator fan sensor is new, the TW sensor is new, the coolant temp sensor at the Tstat housing is new. Im not sure if that circiut is timed or actually driven off a sensor until radiator temps drop below a certain piont.

[ZackieDarko]

Mike my brothers LX-i does the same thing

[mykwikcoupe]

yes zack but is the engine warm or cold when it does this. id think it would do it with the engine warm not just to do it because its cycling.
I stopped bt the local hardware store today to find a plug for the egr tube in my stock b20a header. Turns out its a M24x1.5 threadpitch bolt. That part was great, finding it on the other hand has proved very difficult. For the time being I broke the tube and crimped it shut. Ill fold it over once or twice as per 2ndgenguy idea. I do believe he got his idea from carotman if anyone is keeping track. Its a ghetto fix but it will have to work for the time being. i may have the stud welded shut when i see the the welder tomorrow. it depends on how much we can get done and how fast mostly.

[mykwikcoupe]

the startup blues are never any good. I went out 2 days ago and installed new lugs and wires and as i did I made sure to spray an ample amount of PB blaster down each plug hole to try and lubricate or help unsieze the piston rings as this engine has sat dormant at my house 5 plus years without oil. I went out again today retoqueing and as I tried to turn the crank it was near impossible. My next adventure will be to remove the plugs and see if the starter motor will turn it over. Hopefully so.

As I was already getting everything ready for start I decided I spin the tires a bit since they are off the ground, see if i can get some of the new MTF moved around and coated on the freshly rebiult transmission. Out of gear as you would expect, pretty easy to spin with some hiccups sloshing the tires forwards to backwards. In 5th gear they still turn pretty easy but you can at least feel the gear engagement and all slop was removed. However, i should not be able to turn the tires by hand in gear as the engine should also be turning without the clutch pushed in. I tried 1st gear and its alot harder to spin the tires but as stated before the engine should be turning as well or I should not be able to spin the tires by hand.

I released the clutch cable completely, no difference. This is with new pressure plate, clutch disc, one resuface on a stock b20a flywheel. New integra throw out bearing 90-93 non vtec. I guess Ill have to pull the transmission and see if the throwout bearing is messed up or I may have over toqued the pressure plate bolts causing fin worpage? Only other thing i could think of is a bad differential but thats a new quaife unit? Any thought from the experts?

[mykwikcoupe]

oh and I dont think its the differential becuase the throw out bearing lever has a long pull to set and its hard as a rock afterwards. i didnt think much of it as I have a super stiff sping installed. Now I know better. Lets hear the ideas

[LX-incredible]

I would expect that you could turn the wheels by hand as long as the other was turing the opposite direction, even with the lsd... However if both were turning the same way without turning the engine I would suspect a clutch issue.

[mykwikcoupe]

well in ger the engine should turn with the transmission as I spun the tires and the process of whats happening is the transmission as it should but theres no engagement between the engine and the transmission

[LX-incredible]

Is the other wheel spinning the opposite way? That's just how the differential works. Now if it was spinning freely, in gear, with one wheel on the ground I'd be worried.

[2oodoor]

:

Roodoo if you could out drink me Id be surporsed. Its only happened once or twice in 28 years. Both by seperate people and both sent me to the hospital getting my stomach pumped trying to keep up. Id love to have help or just hang out.

Ok :beer:I would love to do that sometime! I would not challenge that history though. lol

I wouldnt use PB in the cyl necessarily, but would take the plugs out and use marvel mystery oil or some 5w30w and turn the motor over quite a bit to get her good and lubed. Keep in mind you will be smoking up some once it does start, from trying to burn all that stuff out. It is much easier to turn over without compression, so taking the plugs out enables that.

[mykwikcoupe]

Is the other wheel spinning the opposite way? That's just how the differential works. Now if it was spinning freely, in gear, with one wheel on the ground I'd be worried.

The opposite wheel is spinning in the different direction but what Im saying is with the clutch engaged in gear the engine should be in direct drive with the transmission. As such if i spin the transmission the engine would have to spon as well likeif I was to compression start the engine. My problem is that the transmission never engages with the engiune in any gear.

I can feel the difference in drag through the transmission so im sure the fundementals inside are correct. The other wheel is spinning in the opposite direction so the differential would also be checking out. The issue is nothing spins the eninge so it has to be a clutch/flywheel issue. Thats the conclusion Im drawing anyways.

[LX-incredible]

Unless you restrain that wheel or spin it in the same direction you will not turn the engine.

[mykwikcoupe]

ok you got me. that im not sure of. ill go out and drop one side down on the ground and see what happens. Thanks for the tips and it makes sence thats the power would be dispearced through the easiest opposing force a free spinning tire.

[AccordEpicenter]

so did you try starting it yet?

[mykwikcoupe]

yes i did. it cranked over a few times last night and kicked off but I dont have an exhaust on it yet its just the header and downpipe. It was super late and the kids were sleeping so i cut it off real quick. i tried al day today and coulnt get it to start again I drained the old gas put rew stuff in, checked the timing, fuel pressure firing order I guess all I can check is sark but I need someone to crank while i look for the jump. Hopefully its othing ard just need to get it dialed in still What would you call the turbo you biult for me?

[mykwikcoupe]

the sel on the ecu is flashing #2. on some cel guides it says nothing for this code, other say its the secondary O2 sensor. The b20a book says its a faulty ecu? which should I believe? the car was rewired to be obd1 and the wiring is perfect. Im wondering, of the black/yellow and blue coil wires, how would i check for power. im using the internal coil on my b18a dizzy so Ive got a jumper harness that goes from the stock black/yellow and blue to the dizzy. Im wondering if the internal ignigter may be bad or maybe the injectors arent firing.

When I pull the plugs after trying to start it smells like old gas only Ive flushed it all out by pulling the rail banjo and cycling a gallon through of new gas. It should smell of fresh gas id think so Im wondering if the injecotrs arent firing. The fuel pump kicks on. Ive got lots of fuel pressure. How do i check these? Thanks guys 6 days and counting till it needs to be prefect.

[ZackieDarko]

what software is on the ECU?

the ECU software is looking for a 2nd O2 sensor and that feature needs to be turned off

[mykwikcoupe]

using crome i think. speedfactory in tacoma did it for me. it wont keep anything from working will it. Id like to check spark and go through the fundementals

[mykwikcoupe]

double checked the plug gap and regapped to the lower end of the scale rather than the larger gap. Checked firing order and found the problem. With the tioming light hooked up I get no fire to any plugs. I guess the killer deal on the dizzy with the internal ignighter was because the ignigter was bad. Ive got power on the black/yellow to the dizzy. Nothing on the blue (ill look into what it does) and Ive got no spark to any plugs. Any tips for a cheap replacement part?

[ZackieDarko]

nah it will just throw that code

crome has an option to turn that 2nd o2 off

[LX-incredible]

double checked the plug gap and regapped to the lower end of the scale rather than the larger gap. Checked firing order and found the problem. With the tioming light hooked up I get no fire to any plugs. I guess the killer deal on the dizzy with the internal ignighter was because the ignigter was bad. Ive got power on the black/yellow to the dizzy. Nothing on the blue (ill look into what it does) and Ive got no spark to any plugs. Any tips for a cheap replacement part?

Blue is the tach signal. If you have full battery voltage to the black/yellow (black on the adapter I built for you) and a good ground at the distributor housing, you should be good to go. Also check that the extension connector on the ecu jumper is fully seated. These distributors need to send/receive a signal to/from the ecu to fire the ignitor.

What's the full code on the P06 ECU?

[mykwikcoupe]

full code? I double checked all the wiring and it looked great or at least to me anyways. i went down and grabbed the b18c dizzy tonight so ill pull the igniter out of that to put into the b18a dizzy i have. the part numbers are the same and this way i dont have to modify another dizzy bracket as well. lets hope this igniter still works

[mykwikcoupe]

30 minutes later and i find that my b16 head installed on the b18c block Ive got is from a 2000 civic si. Hopefully this means its something special. I also compared the b16 dizzy to the b18a dizzy and the mounting tabs are way different. The b16 dizzy will not work with the jdm b20a. The igniter, cap, rotor are all the same part numbers. The b16 wires have deeper protrusions into the spark plug cavaty than the b18a wires Im using so they do not seat on the valve cover like they are supposed to.

I get it installed, turn the key and 1/4 of a revolution and its purring again. Lets hope it stays this way this time around. This means if the clutch is good Im off to portland. I think thats my last major debacle to tackle. Ive got the interior to finish installing and a few other bits but this was a major milestone for me today. Exhaust will be taken care of tomorrow and Ill drop it on the ground and see if itll go under its own power. Lets hope so.

[AccordB20A]

So you havent managed to take it up the road for a blat yet, man that must suck

[LX-incredible]

Did you use thermal grease on the ignitor? If no, get some at a electronics store and clean and use some between the distributor housing and the ignitor. The ignitor will prematurely fail without this!!!

Good you figured it out though.

[codyJDM]

I say ditch the dubs and go for something more period correct(15"-16" for optimum slammage ;))! Car looks great otherwise, keep the updates coming. :thumbup:

[Civic Accord Honda]

i like the big rims on his car seem to fit it nicely

[mykwikcoupe]

oh they fit oh so nicely. I have toi have something larder than 16 becauseof the aem front brakes. When yopu see it itll look 10 times better in person. No driving yet it was too late and Im finishing the extoday then Im totally hitting the street to see how it feels. No seat of the pant I just want to be sure itll make it to portland and back. No I didnt use thermalk grease both original igniters were clean and dry so i didnt think of it,. Ive got to run out and grab a few parts so Ill grab a tube or thermal X arctic silver while Im at it. Thanks for the tip Ill keep on it. id prefer to keep the engine bay clean and not use my msd ignition on the coupe and Ive read the stock ignition is great but with everyone Ive known that has an interior igniter they have all failed at least once. Not what i would call a good system.

[MessyHonda]

cool...i was going to say almost all ignitors are the same...i took mine off and went with a external one...il show you at the meet

[mykwikcoupe]

ok so I got the exhaust to the cat done and fired it up. It wants to idle at 3k rpm? Its tossing codes like no tomorrow. Im going to need to learn to read them a little better but what i have in whatever starting order is 2 long flashes, 3 long flashes, 6 short quick flashes, 3 quick short flashes then it repeats. Any help.

When you give it gas its acting like the tps is bad it doesnt respond and drops in idle and will die if you hold the gas on. Im stoked lets hope its easy junk and fixes quick Iwant to take it for a drive to see if the transmission is ok as well as the clutch.

[mykwikcoupe]

http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/05.php
this is the site I used and from what its saying
code 2-secondary oxygen sensor ( Id ont have one I need to get it deleted from the ecu chipset)
Code 3- MAP sensor (makes sence thats how its acing right now)
code 63-secondary heated oxygen sensor (I dont have one, Ive only got the one heated sensor behind the oil pan under the intake manifold)
Im wondering if any of these will cause the ecu to not perform correctly or over compensate from what it really should be doing. Thanks for the help again and Ill run back down to my oarents house and grab another TB with map installed on it.

[LX-incredible]

Where are do you have the vacuum for the map connected? I know the wiring is correct. Also, could the ecu be chipped to look for a different map signal?

[mykwikcoupe]

the map sensor is plugged into the small vac fitting on the TB unit itself., the tubing is about 8 inches long and runs to the firewall where the map sensor is tie wrapped

[mykwikcoupe]

Would the map sensor cause the idle to be so high? Why would itttr wantr to idle at 3k rpm?

[LX-incredible]

Not sure... Does the idle drop when the EACV is unplugged?

Vacuum connection for the map sounds correct. I remember reading somewhere that there were a few that were wired different and needed to be repinned... There should be letters above the pins on the map. Should read from left to right V G O. V should match with the yellow wire, G with the green and O with the white. You may need to switch the yellow and white, I think...

[LX-incredible]

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/65/img00383b.jpg
Looking at this picture, the yellow and white look like they need to be switched. Not sure if I wired it to another sensor or just plain screwed up...

Easy fix though. Remove the white retainer on the connector by prying up on the sides with an icepick, push the pins in towards the clip while gently pulling the wire out. Install the wires in their correct location, install the white retainer, and if the boots didn't seat properly, gently work them down with a small screwdriver.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

[mykwikcoupe]

Ok ill try that. I forgot about the idle screw on the tb. Ill adjust that to see if it brings down to a more managable speed

[ZackieDarko]

Ok ill try that. I forgot about the idle screw on the tb. Ill adjust that to see if it brings down to a more managable speed


could be it i had this same problem (high idle) i adjusted mine and it went down to 800-1000

[mykwikcoupe]

swapped out the map sensor wires and fixed that CEL. I still have code 2 (2nd oxygen sensor), but now Ive got a few extras. I thought I counted it out as 36 but there is no code 36? I decided it must be 45 instead and thats system too rich or lean? It still idles at 3k plus even with the idle screw all in or out it doesnt matter. If I unplug the IACV it starts stumbling. Id like to say this is going ok but Im guessing Im going to need another chip and fast as hell or something. Any clue. Help

[mykwikcoupe]

to my own amazment, I tried 3 different TB units from different engines all with different results. i finally installed to 70mm unit with no idle circiut and it settles down and start purring. Itll fluctate between 750-900 rp when it idles for long periods. Im still getting code 2 which isnt a big deal. Im still getting 45 and from the plugs it looks too lean but the engine tewmp holds strong at a low temp. Since Im using a folr mustand Tb unit I had to unplug the TPS and Im throwing code 7 for that not being plugged in. Ill stop by the junk yard tomorrow and see about snagging the proper end and getting that on.

I did manage to set it on the ground and the clutch is holding so thats one less worry but there is a noticable niose in the stacks. It wont shift from gear to gear and it really wont skip gears. i guess Im dropping the transmission tomorrow to see whats up there.

[MessyHonda]

ok cool lets hope we can see what your b20 pulls

[LX-incredible]

It idles lower with that tb because it eliminates the IACV. I would look into the IACV being faulty. It will generally run richer with the tps unplugged, so you may be masking the problem... That ford tps doesn't put out the correct voltage range for our ecus. You might possibly be able to alter the program to make it work.

Are you having these transmission problems with the engine running? Might just be a clutch cable adjustment.

[mykwikcoupe]

I stayed up till 5am working on the transmoission and got it torn down and reassembled. When I opened the cases the only thing I noticed was all the aluminum shaving and the top synco on the coutershaft wasnt even seated. It was like I never put it back. I looked forever and couldnt see where all the shaving came from. Short of removing stacks again which is a big no no for me in a hurry in the middle of the night.

I finally went to bed with nothing else to do but oil it up and start it up. Thats whats going to be happening in the next few minutes. I ran it through all the gears with the cases apart and it seems to be better. Reverse grabbed, the clunking of the gear stacks stopped, it seemed to shift easier since it was centered again.

I pulled the flywheel, pressure plat again and inspected and retoqued. Everything was within specs and dint look bad or have issues. I guess thats just how it was supposed to feel.

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh man!!! Hope you got it fixed! Glad to hear you got her all apart in one night, that's hardcore man!

[mykwikcoupe]

oh yeah I had to stop because I couldnt fire it up anyways. It fixed the issue. the top syncr wasnt fully seated on the countershaft and thats was the problem. I thought I had more issues since it wouldnt engage in any gears after that but worked great with the car off. i kept putting tention on the clutch cable and it worked finally. This pressure plate is insane. i wouldnt wish it on anyone. Its like trying to push the rock of gibralter. A quick test run around the street says the car is too low and bouncy as all hell. this has to change. The TPS still needs wiring in. muffler installed.

For those that have seen pics I got the interior all cleaned up. i was going to swap the dash out but id have to move the vin tag and I didnt want to hassle with that plus Im lazy after another 12 hours working on the car with only 2 hours of sleep. She's washed but I need to vacuum it out again tomorrow. the apint is unfortunatly not worth waxing but it shines a little as is. From right now id say ill be at the meet so lets hope all goes well tomorrow with the exhaust and emissions test. Im really curious just how lean its running.

[Civic Accord Honda]

awesome!

[mykwikcoupe]

I was thinking, since my chipped p)^ has an issue with running lean and Ive got an unchipped P75, could I just install the P75 non chipped and run it? would it work? what would happen? Thanks guys.

[LX-incredible]

It can't hurt to try. Basemap on the P75 is probably going to be pretty damn close to what you would want and would eliminate the secondary O2 codes.

I am running damn near prefect on a stock PR4. Passed emissions way better than with the obd0 PJ0, power and fuel milage were improved as well. I'm getting 30-32 city and 38-41 highway. P75 should be a bit richer than the PR4, probably perfect for the B20A.

[MessyHonda]

It can't hurt to try. Basemap on the P75 is probably going to be pretty damn close to what you would want and would eliminate the secondary O2 codes.

I am running damn near prefect on a stock PR4. Passed emissions way better than with the obd0 PJ0, power and fuel milage were improved as well. I'm getting 30-32 city and 38-41 highway. P75 should be a bit richer than the PR4, probably perfect for the B20A.

yeah obd1 makes these cars run good

[mykwikcoupe]

update, all was going good everything seemed ok. Yesterday I finished the exhaust and went for a long drive. I made it out of the driveway which really is a long drive. It hasnt left the garage in 3 years.

Anyways the differential soundslike its fighting itself. Jack up the car and it sounds great. It doesnt matter if its in gear or out of gear but if you drive the transmission with engine power it grinds, moans, clunks and otherwise seems broken to me. Ive got the stock diff Ill install just to be sure and Ive alreeady sent an emailt o quaife asking them questions. Te diff was new and has been sitting on my shelf for 4 years looked great and mint. The only other thing I can think of its fighting the pseedo drive gear which Ill pull out just to be sure.

The engine has always purred even with no idle circiut. Today when I started it the dang thing wanted to idle lower than normal and die. Easy fix, up the idle an 1/8th of a turn. I let it warm up and waited to make sure everything else seemed ok and started driving. I couldnt get it to idle past 1200 rpm. Its acting like its bouncing off the rev limiter. Affter pulling the plugs though they are so overheated and tan the entire electrode is burnt not even just the tip. the tune Ive got is not going to work. Ill try the stock cchip that came with my P06 and Ive also got an unmolested P75 Ill try out just to be sure.

The intake still needs a filter as pics will show and unfortunatly pics will have to wait. we havent had rain in seattle for over a month and today its pouring. This will also give me a chance to swap out IACV and throttle bodies again to see if i can get one of them to work even better.

Oh on a side not, how can I check and see what flywheel Ive got. i bought this one from 86preludeb20 or whatever his name is and the transmission case is shawing signs of wear as if the pressure plate is digging into the case like the b20a5 flywheel would. That would suck since I paid extra for the stock JDM B20A flywheel.

[mykwikcoupe]

well in the bad news column I can say my coupe didnt make the meet and the hatch couldnt go because I had to hack up the exhaust to put it on the coupe. Since Im now on less of a time restraint should I bag on the "just get it running" routine and go back to the turbo program.

The speedshop i talked with about chagepiping had said my T3 should be fine on a stock engine since its technically small for my application evean at a 60/63. Basically all I need is the tuning software, piping and ijectors done. I can start installing it and fab it as i go or should I just try it get back to driveable. I wont be able to afford the parts I need for a while since I have no job but I do have most of the parts needed anyways.

Ok back on topic, Wprocomp did me a great favor and shipped me the DC lower tie bar and I got it on thrusday with the intent of tossing it on. Ill post pics when it stops raining and I get a chance to install it.

I went down to my parents place to grab my other ecu but it turned out it was a P28 vtec ecu not the P75 I thought it was. I wonder how it would run if I kept it below the vtec limit switch. any thoughts or opinions?

[Rendon LX-i]

get it chipped and disable the vtec bro

[mykwikcoupe]

well Ive been a little pissed at the car since I missed the portland update. Im yet to turn a wrench on it again. Im thinking its time to bolt the turbo back onto it again and go from there. My 1st project is to finish the interior. I need to swap the dash since my is currently black/tan and my interior is black/grey. When I have it removed Im debating if I should remove all the a/c componets? Ive read that its a major weight savings and here in washington we really dont need it but for a few months a year. keep in mind this is not going to be an every day car. What do you guys think?

Ive already got the engine bay free from such clutter including the condensor. i was thinking of having a radiator shop make me a custom radiator that fits the size and mounting of the condensor saving me a good 2-3 inches of room between the stock radiator and turbo. That or the idea was to get pusher fans and mount them on the side of the condensor. Its easier but will it really save much room?

on a second note the car hasnt moves or ran so I cannot update on the condition of sounds, qwerks or happenings.

[charliekuney]

Ditch the A/C, I know I will. I never use mine, no matter how "hot" it gets. Windows down, speed up. ;)

[mykwikcoupe]

sure charlie only I think if you could get a nice pair of shoes and cut the floor out of your car, you'd gladly do it to say your the most minimalistic. I think that when i removed the condensor I made up my mind. Im just seeing if anyone has an objection to doing so. It didnt work, the ac system adds at least 100 lbs, and imagine all the room I could gain for important things down the road.

[MessyHonda]

yeah if you are not going to drive it as a daily dont use the a/c...im taking mine off

[mykwikcoupe]

yeah if you are not going to drive it as a daily dont use the a/c...im taking mine off

and you live in cali. thats really saying something there

[MessyHonda]

and you live in cali. thats really saying something there

yeah in the bay area....we are spoiled...hottest it gets here is around 90ish and coldest is around low 60s....but yeah i bought mine with out working ac so it never worked....im still keeping my coupe...that has ac just needs freon

[mykwikcoupe]

Ok so i went in the garage and started looking at the engine again. my tb is from a mustang fox body and the adapter plate Im using doesnt allow for the sensor/valve behind the tb. I think its an IACV but Im not sure. Since Im obd1 and there is no passageway to to the valve, im wondering if I can just delete it and block off the hoses.

Also if I did disable the sensor can i make up for it or remove it from the tune in my obd1 swap? Thanks for the heads up guys.

[mykwikcoupe]

http://www.preludeonline.com/f91/how-tb-iac-coolant-bypass-block-plate-118675/ I found my answer. i posted after about 3 hours of reading and 30 minutes later I happen across this install. He doesnt mention a code and i believe i read that in crome pro you can diable the IAC code. We have very subtle weather here in teh NW so i dont think ill need it. im going to delete as many coolant lines off the car as well.

[mykwikcoupe]

goinmg out today to clean up the interior a little more. Im going to start pulling the dash to swap in the all black one. id like to run the wiring for the folding fogs, power folding mirrors and a few other add ons while I have it out of the way and I can incorporate it better into the overall function of the car.

Ill try to get and post better pics depending on how clean it really turns out. Id love to be able to show off the led gauges but bitesize still hasnt returned them after # months. I think if i get time tonight Ill pull off the stock header and start bolting on the turbo manifold and getting it all ready to go as well.

If anyone knows how to remove the seem bump from the rear glass rubber trim without messing anything up. Maybe I dont have it lined up correctly or? Ive swapped a few interiors but this is the 1st to have an obvious issue with the seem. Ill post a pic of what i mean.

[charliekuney]

sure charlie only I think if you could get a nice pair of shoes and cut the floor out of your car, you'd gladly do it to say your the most minimalistic.

Actually, it's just the fact that I hate A/C. It's too cold, no matter how low I set it.

[mykwikcoupe]

yeah. Justa quick update. i pulled the dash and realized i forget to grab the little side mouldings on either side of the dash above the kick panels. i had to paint my tan ones black. i hope the paint i chose works. they are a very low impact place and 80% of them are covered by the dash anyways.

I pulled the ac heat exchanger so i can plug the holes and dont have 2 empty conduits sticking out of the firewall never to be used again. the next time Im at the JY Ill find a dx and grab the firewall plugs for it. I didnt realize the exchanger was made from very lightweight aluminum. I bet the whole assembly weighs less than 5 lbs. Not much for weight savings. Not wahat I was going for anyways.

Ill get the black dash reinstalled when i get help managing it into the car. I dont want to scratch anything. Ill take pictures then. I do need to swap vin tags and get the old one riveted back in place. The ac duct was full of old dried leaves and debris. Im not sure how they got into there since ive never parked it under a tree. must be from one of the previous owners.

I need to jump under my house and grab the floor mats and a few other parts to help spruce up the inside of the car. For my second ever dash removal it went pretty easy. This will be my 1st dash install. I hope it lines up and falls back into place.

Charlie I think you meant to say no matter how high I set it. You do realize the ac is more of a drier than a cooling device. if you want to turn the heat up and keep the ac on it still works and doesnt have to be cold.

[mykwikcoupe]

Dash is in. VIN tags swapped and looks so close to original I dont think someone would notice if you pionted it out. My interior is now officially all black plastics and grey leathers. I do have a few knicks in the plastics ill swap out as the parts come available. The leather is in 98* good shape. I have 2 small dime sized tears on top of the rear saets from sun fading and the drivers seat has some cracking but no tears or worn through spots. When you consider the interior has been moved through 3 cars and been in a 60MPH accident it looks fantastic.

I just finish cleaning it all up again. i need to go and wash the windows onemore time to remove the last of the interior dressing overspray. The 4th application made it super slick and shiny. Its normally a nice matte lustre. I guess it wasnt design for repeated applications in a single setting.

I need to get my gauges back from bitesize and I can assemble the cluster. Id like to swap in one of my nice decks as a headunit but not sure thats the routs the car is going to take. Id like super clean, good all around sound much like the new bose sytems. Not a ton of exposed components maybe just a set of tweets in the doors and a fiberglass spare tire box later. I dont want to run a ton of wiring through it again.

Ill let you guys decide. i cant take a great photoshoot like I would like simply because I dont feel like pushing the car to it. Pics to come tonight hopefully tomorrow at the latest. id really like an honest rating of what to change, what would make it pop, and what doesnt fit in the overall look. Ill see how many parts can be noticed as "hey, whats that doing in there?"

[charliekuney]

You can get that missing trim piece. Symmetry for the win! Or, un-break your power-folding fogs. I want to come up and see your car again.

[2ndGenGuy]

If you wanna keep it simple with the stereo, you should do like I'm going to do in my 84. I've got a mid-90s Alpine CD player (no bullshit LEDS or mp3 playback and all that bullshit) and I'm hooking it into a period matched EQ that has a separate sub-out and tweaks for the speakers separately. I think the older decks are better because they're not crammed full of useless bullshit features, and they blend in nicely with the look of the car.

If you've got tears in your seats, nothing makes a car look 100% more amazing then getting them professionally recovered. I don't know if that's something you can do now, but definitely something down the road.

[mykwikcoupe]

the tears arent visible from inside the car and once i get the windows tinted they wont be visible at all. They are up on top of the seat facing the rear glass. I suppose if I folded it down they may be. Professional recovering is great but hardly ever looks stock as well. Im going for a more casual pimp look. Like the subtloe things that make you wonder why the car looks so different. Id love to put more jdm goodness into it but all the goodies have already been had (carotman, that means you).

I do have quite a bit but not as much as I would like. Im sure anyone on here that reads alot of threads or has been around a while would know right away whats changed but to the average hondaholic Im sure they would know it looks different but now know why.

[charliekuney]

And the most recent picture of Mike's kwikcoupe:

http://i33.tinypic.com/qq3iq0.jpg

Oh, we mustn't forget the "work" hatch (and Charlie's coupe, and a random Mexi sedan):

http://i35.tinypic.com/2n74e1u.jpg

[MessyHonda]

mike...go work on the coupe

[mykwikcoupe]

all it needs is an exhaust and a tune. Unfortunatly I cant afford a tune since I havent worked since april. The economy sucks up here right now. Im hoping to get down and steal charlies old coupe exhaust and pup a new muffler on it. I just need to find time to do it. i wish I found one with better original paint but after looking for 2 years I settled on this one. The interior is 95%, the suspension, undercarraige is 96%, the engine and bay 95% but the paint is more like 60%. No bodywork, everything is original but as you can see the clear is fading. Thats after 4 years in a garage even. This is what happens when you dont wax a car

[MessyHonda]

yeahmy car is not clean...it needs lots of body work....i need to find some one that can do it at his house for little to no money...and a pack of beer

[Rendon LX-i]

wish i was there....i would do that LOL...i did my car

[charliekuney]

I'll trade my exhaust for some JDM corners and some cash. :) Or, some cup holders...

[MessyHonda]

wish i was there....i would do that LOL...i did my car

i work so i cant do it

[mykwikcoupe]

ok rendon come over and get myt car. I have lots of beer and if you do a really good job Ill even toss in some pyrat rum, patron silver, jagermeiter, or whatever else I still have in half gallon when your done. I need to shave the antenna, emblem holes and put the rear handles from a sedan onto it and itll be ready for paint. Oh and I need to save up the funds so Im thinking close to never at this rate. Damn

Charlie your going to hold the exhaust hostage after you told me it was garbage and rusted out. You want me to part with my last set of cupholders or a set of jdm corners? How about you bring it up to me and well talk. Id lean towards a set of corners since they are morer common and I still have 4 sets Im not using. At this rate all my parts are going to be gone in a year. Damnit man.

Messy, believe me man I want it done so bad right now. Id be oput driving it slow and watching for people to run into me. Long story short, Last time I got my coupe to this piont was in 2005. I finished the interior on a saturday and drove it into work on monday after not driving it for months. I was so happy and I got so many compliments. On the way out of work I was t-boned and its taken me this long to get back to that same step. Good news is its all forward progress from here.

[charliekuney]

Don't get your panties in a bunch, I wasn't being serious. I know it's crap, but you said you want it.

[mykwikcoupe]

Don't get your panties in a bunch, I wasn't being serious. I know it's crap, but you said you want it.

I was just playing. Its all good man. Any lick on the template or are you just going to use a tape measure and do it. The other thing you can do is make your own templete. se a paper sack and lay it flat. Remove the rack and poke holes in the bag and transfer it to the new trunk. I would cut out the sack so it matches the lines of the trunk.

[charliekuney]

If I end up selling the pair, I can trade you the good exhaust, as long as you help me put the bad one in the driving coupe. If you need one that bad, of course. I'll try to make m own template sometime at the end of this week. We'll see. I'm excited.

[Rendon LX-i]

MIKE Ok Rendon come over and get myt car. I have lots of beer and if you do a really good job Ill even toss in some pyrat rum, patron silver, jagermeiter, or whatever else I still have in half gallon when your done. I need to shave the antenna, emblem holes and put the rear handles from a sedan onto it and itll be ready for paint. Oh and I need to save up the funds so Im thinking close to never at this rate. Damn


O no problem.....body work takes bout 1 day if its really bad. give me hammers, fiber glass tools and some fiber glass LOL. big air compressor. air drying need.....3 guns Awata perferded.....dent tools. spot gun. evercoar slick sand,base paint, reducer,all the shit you need to paint a car LOL...i can name more...Lucky my bro has all the tools but since he moved to portland he took all his shit with him and put it in a storage so there for i dont have nothing...and i wouldnt think he would let me brorrow some 300 dollar awata guys LOL....:)

[mykwikcoupe]

I have alot of thaty already. I used to do it as well but havent in about 10 years. Ill see if I can find a place and have you over for a week/end. we could do it in my garage if i made a visqueen room in it. My air compressor would handle it and Ive got 2 really nice dryers on it. My buddy has the guns.

[Rendon LX-i]

cool shit...let me know....so i can try to get the time off lol