Engine Rebuild-?

[headbanger]

Ok I am thinking about taking a carbed block from an lx I have torn apart; an stuck in my building I am wanting to have it bored .20 an putting on an header.Was wondering if I can leave all other components on the block stock.And do I have to change computer or anything.Before I put it in my lxi .Also has any1 used this product want to make sure it is good quallity thx alot

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii281/balldropr/sampleenginekit.jpg

[mushroom_toy]

I asked the same question not too long ago. Seemingly no one knows. I have read on many places that both those and topline kits are great, and have a lot of good reviews but at the same time Ive heard a lot of bashing,.

[headbanger]

yeah I was wondering its an awful good price for rebuilt goodness lol.:bandit:

[mushroom_toy]

Well ordered most of my stuff and even by piecing together a kit Im ending up with Topline pistons, rings and bearings. The auto store/machine shop I get all my parts at said Topline stuff is all they use. If its good enough for them it is for me because Ive seen a lot of the high hp engines they build. I say go for a topline kit.

[Dr_Snooz]

Is that a pic of a 4g kit?

[headbanger]

I dont know but it was the picture they had for 89 rebuild kit probaly same pic for all.

[headbanger]

Well ordered most of my stuff and even by piecing together a kit Im ending up with Topline pistons, rings and bearings. The auto store/machine shop I get all my parts at said Topline stuff is all they use. If its good enough for them it is for me because Ive seen a lot of the high hp engines they build. I say go for a topline kit.

alrighty thx alots.

[markmdz89hatch]

I just got a set of rod bearings, main bearings, piston rings, and timing belt tensioner from them, as well as a water pump.

The water pump turned out to be a reman'd pump and I didn't like how difficult it was to spin it, nor the fact that the one tapped post where you bolt the timing belt cover to it was all sorts of screwed up.

However, the bearings, rings, and tensioner were all brand new (obviously) and looked to be of pretty good quality considering what I paid. In the next few days I'll be putting the rings on the pistons, and will test fit all the bearings, so I'll have a better report then.

Despite the shitty water pump, they redeemed themselves in a big way. I called them up and reported the bad tapping on the post, and they mentioned they'd call back in a few minutes after researching the specific function of that tapping. Within 30 mins I received a call back from them apologizing for the fault and offered a full refund if I return the part to them. I responded with "How do you want me to get this to you?", implying that I had no intention of paying for the return shipping. After only about a minute on hold, they came back and let me know they would send me a prepaid shipping label to return the pump.

Now I'm still waiting on that label (I called them late last week), so I'm not yet worried about receiving the label. Providing I receive that label, and they refund me the $$ for the pump upon their receipt of it back at their shop, I'll have to admit that they certainly excel in the customer service department. Things like that are not at all common anymore.

Anyway, as for what else is needed....

That block from the LX is an A20A1, while you're LX-i has an A20A3. To the best of my knowledge, there is no difference in the blocks, so you should be able to just pull your block, and swap all parts (ie. manifold w/ injectors and harness, alternator, p/s, a/c, blah blah blah) and be on your merry way. The head is a bit different, but if you were to use the head from the LX as well, you'll just need to pull your dizzy end rocker mount from the LX-i and use it on the LX because each motor uses a different dizzy as well, so that one mount is different. That's only a 10-15 minute swap though.

Some claim the cams are different, but fact is they're both PJ0 cams, so that evidence may lend itself to saying they are in fact the same cams.

As with the claimed difference in compression from the A3 to the A1. No idea how this is possible because they use the same PJ0 head and PJ0 pistons too. Unless the A3 block is milled something like .10 from the factory, as compared to an A1 as a control (.00), I have no idea where the added compression is coming from.

Sorry for the long post. Hope it helps. ...and sit tight for the results of the tests on the bearings, tensioner, and rings, as well as how the RMA is finalized with the water pump.

[headbanger]

no long post is great that is what I needed to know thx alot mayne.

[mephi]

Some claim the cams are different, but fact is they're both PJ0 cams, so that evidence may lend itself to saying they are in fact the same cams.




The manual has different specs for the carb and efi cams.
38.858 mm efi intake lobe.
38.477 mm carb intake lobe.

Exhaust is also slightly different.

Less than half a mm, but still some. You'd be better off buying an after market cam.

Hope I'm not being a jackass. Stupid tequila.

[markmdz89hatch]

The manual has different specs for the carb and efi cams.
38.858 mm efi intake lobe.
38.477 mm carb intake lobe.

Exhaust is also slightly different.

Less than half a mm, but still some. You'd be better off buying an after market cam.

Hope I'm not being a jackass. Stupid tequila.


No man, you're not being a jackass, those are the specs i couldn't find, but if the Honda manual says they're different, I'm inclined to believe them. ...but if that's the case, I just can't understand why they would both use a PJ0 designation.