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View Full Version : Engine makes a ticking sound.


Josh89accord
06-16-2009, 01:28 PM
Hey guys,
I've dropped this A20A3 in my 89 accord LXi. I start it up, sometimes it takes some time to crank over and actually start. But when it warms up, I hear a wierd kinda of ticking sound coming from the valve train. I believe it has always done it with this engine, but not sure... I did have a timing belt break, and after I replaced it I thought it was worse but maybe I'm just hearing things. After it warms up it gets worse, and also when the car is warm and i shut it off, turning it back on it turns over fine, but all of a sudden the starter sounds like it slows down for a few second. But it only happens when the engine is up to running temps? Also, it seems like I'm not getting proper fuel to the engine cuz it always cuts out around 4k RPM range. I keep putting more and more money into this car, and soon enough everythings going to be replaced, but I always come up with a new problem. I wanna hear your guys ideas on what it is? I also just re-did the valve clearances.

Thank you 3Geez,

Josh.
carotman
06-16-2009, 03:55 PM
Is the CEL On?
Dr_Snooz
06-16-2009, 07:38 PM
What is your oil pressure?
mephi
06-16-2009, 10:02 PM
Valve adjust? Worn cam? Something else? Sorry bad mood today.
Rendon LX-i
06-16-2009, 11:20 PM
UMMm....lets see let me guess on this one....ooo INJECTORS lol. they make alot of noise and if they are dirty o yes. AND valve lash like ^^^^ said. a20 are known to make noise. Just to be on the safe side. Check your lash
Josh89accord
06-17-2009, 07:14 AM
Is the CEL On?

Yes, has always been on since I got this new engine in.. Previous engine never had it on.


What is your oil pressure?

No idea, I was planning on getting gauges, just never did have the money to blow on them.


Valve adjust? Worn cam? Something else? Sorry bad mood today.

I adjusted the valves cuz thats what I thought it was, and I doubt its a worn cam to be honest.


UMMm....lets see let me guess on this one....ooo INJECTORS lol. they make alot of noise and if they are dirty o yes. AND valve lash like ^^^^ said. a20 are known to make noise. Just to be on the safe side. Check your lash

Yeah, it could be, but this is the same intake as my other engine, just switched over and it never made this wierd sound. I also cleaned out the injectors woth gumout and seafoam plenty of times lol.

Thanks guys.
carotman
06-17-2009, 01:14 PM
Yes, has always been on since I got this new engine in.. Previous engine never had it on.


Just fix the damn problem with the CEL first. How do you expect to have a smooth running engine with the CEL On? This isn't some kind of annoying light, it tells you something's wrong with the engine.

Rigns a bell?
Josh89accord
06-17-2009, 01:46 PM
Just fix the damn problem with the CEL first. How do you expect to have a smooth running engine with the CEL On? This isn't some kind of annoying light, it tells you something's wrong with the engine.

Rigns a bell?
Carotman, I have tried and tried to fix the problem with the Check engine light.. It says I have a bad intake temperature sensor, and I've replaced it and it still says the exact same thing... So its prolly in the engine wiring harness, or I'm not sure. But otherwise it doesn't flash any codes on the ECU, just that one....
jasonrebellion
06-17-2009, 05:14 PM
check your clearance on your valves..... thats what ticking usually is
Dr_Snooz
06-17-2009, 05:17 PM
If it's a light valve tap at idle that goes away when you rev the engine, you probably have low oil pressure. I'd get on that mighty quick.
Josh89accord
06-17-2009, 09:14 PM
check your clearance on your valves..... thats what ticking usually is
Thats what I thought, but I've already redone the clearances.


If it's a light valve tap at idle that goes away when you rev the engine, you probably have low oil pressure. I'd get on that mighty quick.

Its now at idle, it only does it between like 2k-3.5k rpm's.
Rendon LX-i
06-17-2009, 09:40 PM
ring a bell LOL...carotman easy on the guy bro.
Josh89accord
06-18-2009, 07:03 AM
I'd like to get the problems figured out with this engine, but I'm also building up another a20a3 with a cam headwork ect. to bolt in soon, but in the meantime i want this engine to run smoothly... And I can't for the life of me figure out how to do that. This car has given me problems from day one, and it has been a huge money hole.
carotman
06-18-2009, 08:18 AM
The ECT is one of the primary sensor used to calibrate the Air/fuel mixture.

Without it, the ECU is running into safe mode and the car won't work as it should.

I didn't mean to be rude, sorry bout that.
Josh89accord
06-18-2009, 08:26 AM
The ECT is one of the primary sensor used to calibrate the Air/fuel mixture.

Without it, the ECU is running into safe mode and the car won't work as it should.

I didn't mean to be rude, sorry bout that.

So, even if the ECU is flashing a code 10, which is a air temp sensor, it could very well be a different sensor? Hmm, didn't know that one. I'll look at getting a new coolant temp sensor tonight. and I figured the ECU is being ran in safe mode right now, which explains why this car doesn't seem to have very much pep right now. Thanks Carotman, and no hard feelings about previous posts. :rockon:
Josh89accord
06-19-2009, 06:09 AM
I'm just gonna try to run this engine til next week, then pull it out and put my new one in. I think I have bent valves or somethng... This engine has been problems since I've first put it in, and I know that it was prolly fucked before I put it in. I've got a rebuilt one in my garage on the engine stand getting ready to have all new seals on it. Thanks.
carotman
06-19-2009, 07:15 AM
So, even if the ECU is flashing a code 10, which is a air temp sensor, it could very well be a different sensor? Hmm, didn't know that one. I'll look at getting a new coolant temp sensor tonight. and I figured the ECU is being ran in safe mode right now, which explains why this car doesn't seem to have very much pep right now. Thanks Carotman, and no hard feelings about previous posts. :rockon:

:Owned2: Sorry, I read that you had a problem with the ECT, not the IAT (I had a problem with the ECT myself).

If you have a code 10, it's either the sensor or the wiring. The IAT is even more important than the ECT.

Check that ASAP.
Josh89accord
06-19-2009, 10:08 AM
That would explain why my engine cuts out at 4K RPM.... I think fuel delivery. I'll check that wiring harness when I get home tonight, but I know the sensor is good, I've replaced it once with a whole different throttle body off a running car.
1987AccordLx-i
06-20-2009, 08:18 AM
do our cars have a sort of "limp mode"? cuz from what he says how it cuts out at 4k.. civics do that.. the newer ones..
lostforawhile
06-20-2009, 09:13 AM
If it's a light valve tap at idle that goes away when you rev the engine, you probably have low oil pressure. I'd get on that mighty quick.
mine did that,but it always had plenty of oil pressure.
Josh89accord
06-20-2009, 10:12 AM
do our cars have a sort of "limp mode"? cuz from what he says how it cuts out at 4k.. civics do that.. the newer ones..

I believe they do, because it seems to be alot slower. I'm just going to get a new wiring harness.
Rendon LX-i
06-20-2009, 11:34 PM
umm thats wierd...when i get code12 i hit boost and she redlines at 7k like nothing.....
carotman
06-21-2009, 07:23 AM
code 12 is for the EGR, the car won't go in limp mode for an EGR problem.
Dr_Snooz
06-21-2009, 12:29 PM
mine did that,but it always had plenty of oil pressure.

Glad to hear it. Mine started it and when I got home (400 miles later) I had to replace the engine.
1987AccordLx-i
06-22-2009, 11:18 PM
I believe they do, because it seems to be alot slower. I'm just going to get a new wiring harness.

my 87 didnt have limp mode and it had codes 12 and 6 on at the same time.. ran good..