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import racer
06-24-2009, 02:28 PM
Why do they sell rear seal repair kits when they're such a bitch to put in.I put a set in mine today and it took all afternoon and when i was done i had one caliper leaking like a river.Was not worth the effort .Now i guess i have to save to buy two new calipers for the rear.Plus i went three places to get new bleeder screws an none of them fit,had to end up putting my old chewed up ones back in.What a shitty day.

ecogabriel
06-24-2009, 02:59 PM
I think I saw rear disk repair kits when I bought the front repair kits for mine (LXI) here

www.rockauto.com

It is hard to figure out what might have gone wrong with the rebuilt for a caliper to leak in such a way. Are they leaking from the bleeder screws or from the caliper seals?
One possibility is that the piston itself is pitted; if at the same time you replaced the pads the pistons might have gone in to the point where the pitted section now would work against the seal and if that happens there would be no seal that would work. Besides, I do not know if there are differences in construction compared with the the front ones; assuming that they are similar in the way the work, here go my 0.02 on how I assembled them.
I rebuilt a couple of calipers besides those of the LXI (front wheel all of them). The LXI ones had a ton of crap inside them plus a bit of corrosion (well, more than a bit of it; some parts of the cylinder were pitted fortunately the pistons were OK)

From what I remember, cleaning the crap including the corrosion was difficult and took me quite some time especially removing rust from the slot holding the inner seal (I do not know how to better call it but it is the one that goes inside the caliper cylinder. But assembling them back was not too difficult except for the external dust seals that took me some time to figure out.

Besides that from what I remember I would say double and triple-check that the inner seal does not get pushed out of its slots when you push the piston back in; it is very easy that the seals would try to get out of the slots in the walls if the piston does not go completely straight.
the piston should go in without applying too much of a force; I pushed them slowly and they went in without problem.

I cannot recall but I think that for the outer seal (really a dust seal) I just waited for the piston to go all the way in and then put the seal in place.

Hope it helps; I know it is frustrating when one tries to solve one problem and things do not go allright.

import racer
06-24-2009, 04:51 PM
YEA MY PISTONS WERE PITTED SOME AT THE ENDS,BUT I WAS HOPING IT WOULDN'T AFFECT THE SEAL BUT I GUESS I WAS WRONG.tHOUGHT I COULD SAVE SOME MONEY PUTTING IN THE SEAL KIT INSTEAD OF SPENDING 150.00 FOR EACH CALIPER.aND i guess I'll have to go to the dealer to get the bleeder screws since nobody else gets it right.

b20a86lude
07-22-2009, 04:51 PM
dude the bleeder screw is all u need , dude autozone selld them for like i work there and i have like 15 bleeder screws for just in case . and i got them at autzone oh and u wont find them in the aisles

import racer
07-23-2009, 01:33 PM
Yeah i got new bleeder screws from the dealer because i tried getting them from three diff parts stores and none of them fit.They don't leak any more,but would like to get the legend ones for the back but every place i check wants the old ones ,and i don't have them so they would cost me even more.We don't have any in the j/y around here,so no luck there either.

russiankid
07-24-2009, 06:53 AM
I don't see how you had so many problems. The tip of the piston slips into the seal, and then it screws in the rest of the way.

import racer
07-24-2009, 07:50 AM
I had a hard time getting them started but after that it went fine,I thing the leak was the old bleeder screws.After i replaced those it didn't leak,but to turn the pistons in to line up the pads was hard to turn with needle nose pliers.Might have to get tool for turning them.

russiankid
07-24-2009, 07:59 AM
The shop manual even uses pliers. Before installing the new seals, you should have cleaned the groove for the seal in the caliper really well. Then lubricate it with clean brake fluid and go from there. When my brother and I rebuilt mine, I also got all new parts for the E-brake mechanism.

b20a86lude
07-25-2009, 03:48 PM
yea i took mine completly APART I TOOK THE PISTON OUT AND EVERYHTING IV CLEANED SO GOOD

import racer
07-26-2009, 09:09 AM
I cleaned the grooves the best i could and I used plenty of brake fluid to install them,but they were still tight to turn in.If i can find some legend calpers and brackets I'll go that route.

russiankid
07-26-2009, 09:23 AM
They are supposed to be hard to turn.

import racer
07-26-2009, 03:56 PM
OH OK Thanks.

b20a86lude
07-27-2009, 04:48 PM
yea i tore the guts out of mine and refurbished mine