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View Full Version : How do I make it hold still?



dataBoy
10-01-2002, 02:19 PM
Time to change the timing belt (and water pump, tensioner, and seals) on my 89 LXi with automatic. How do I get the engine to hold still while I undo the nut on the crank pully?

I hear one guy say to remove the cover on the tranmission and jamb a piece of iron pipe between the starter ring gears and the ground. Anyone try this?

Thanks
dataBoy

PhydeauX
10-01-2002, 02:37 PM
Thats a good way to break your ring gear. Its a bitch to get that bolt out. If you have access to a an impact gun then that'll make short work of it. Honda makes a special tool for holding the pully and removeing the bolt, though the dealer isn't usually inclined to rent it. The way I usually go about it is a breaker bar and a big hammer (use a craftsman or similar tool with a unconditional lifetime warantee, this is a good way to break the bar). Ghetto up my own impact wrench. A few good hard swings usually will break the thing loose. Make sure that the plugs are still in and leave all the belts to the accessories on, the more resistance you have the better.

andy

AZmike
10-01-2002, 02:38 PM
I tried using a screwdriver in the ring gear and had no luck. What i ended up doing was putting it in 5th gear, having someone step on the brakes and breaking it loose with an 18" breaker bar.

cruznz
10-01-2002, 03:53 PM
remove starter motor.....get a decent bit of rag and jam it inbetween ring gear and bellhousing....it'll stop it turning

BoredRec
10-01-2002, 03:57 PM
Before I got my 3/4 inch impact gun (Buwahahaha!!!!) I used my mom's old hammock frame (tube pipe, dismantled). Musta been the world's biggest breaker ball....4 or 5 feet long...it worked.

guaynabo89
10-01-2002, 05:58 PM
Those bolts are a pain in the butt.

The easy way is to take it to a shop have them loosen it with impact gun and heat. Then you you bring it home and take it off. It will take less force to get the bolt undone.:)

dataBoy
10-02-2002, 03:03 AM
Good idea, even if I hvae to give them a tip.

Has anyone seen the tool that Honda uses? Could I make one?

dataBoy

ACCORD EX
10-02-2002, 06:29 AM
i did the big screw driver thing in the timing hole and hold it while someone was breaking it loose !
the 4th gear thing is also a good idea ! :super:

MIKE

YK86
10-02-2002, 07:03 AM
A $15 chain style strap wrench around the crank pulley to hold it and a breaker bar and pipe to get the nut loose. It works every time and will not damage anything.

dataBoy
10-02-2002, 08:00 AM
The chain style strap wrench sounds like it might just be the ticket, thanks. Guess I'll go down to "The Borg" ( Home Depot) and see what I can find.

dataBoy

AZmike
10-02-2002, 08:06 AM
Originally posted by dataBoy
The chain style strap wrench sounds like it might just be the ticket, thanks. Guess I'll go down to "The Borg" ( Home Depot) and see what I can find.

dataBoy

I'm curious, how is Home Depot "The Borg"?

YK86
10-02-2002, 10:31 AM
Just so you know, don't get the rubber strap kind. I tried it before the chain kind but it snapped. Good thing it had a lifetime warranty.

dataBoy
10-02-2002, 04:14 PM
Yea, I don' t think I'd even try the rubber one. but thanks for the reminder.

re The Borg, it's a Star Trek thing.

njpeter
10-04-2002, 04:20 AM
Once I lowered the main engine pully onto a big ass block of wood to keep it from turning. Got the bolt but nicked the pulley ( no real problem). after that I bought an electic imapct wrench, I will finally bite down and get real compressed air again, I'm getting too old ( 44) for this crap

dataBoy
10-04-2002, 05:11 AM
Maybe I should just buy an impact wrench. I see harbor Freight has one 240 ft lbs - $49. Should be good for as much as I'd use it.

Old? Heck, I'm 51

guaynabo89
10-04-2002, 06:13 AM
One time on a car I put the wrench on the crank pulley and put it against something in the suspension. I cranked the car and the bolt came loose. I definately don't recommend this but, maybe as a last resort.

dataBoy
10-04-2002, 09:03 AM
Yea, I think that is a last ditch effort. Harbor Freight has an electric implact wrench for $49 and deep wall sockets for $10. I have to go out and check the car to see if there is clearance but it can't hurt to have an impact wrench around.
(-8 just another excuse to buy a tool, course, if I had someone else do the work it'd cost way more.

YK86
10-04-2002, 09:04 AM
I wouldn't trust the impact unless it's a good one (betwen 350-500 ft-lbs). I bought a 250ft-lbs air impact ($50) and that thing could not take off anything. I also rented a electric one before and that was useless too. But it may have been getting weak since it was a rental.

dataBoy
10-04-2002, 09:16 AM
Thanks for the tip. Yea, this one at HF was 250 ft lbs. So you think that's not enough? guess I'll rethink this.

YK86
10-04-2002, 09:33 AM
I'm not too sure how they rate them (overrated??) because I bought another one rated at 350ft-lbs ($200 I think...) which took off alot more stuff but it still couldn't loosen the crank pulley bolt. That was with the compressor properly set to 90PSI.

89lxi95zx7
10-04-2002, 11:44 AM
buy the tool, use it, and return it(i do it all the time)

DBMaster
10-04-2002, 12:44 PM
I still like slipping a mechanic $5 to break it loose with the shop's air impact wrench. Tighten by hand, drive it home, and do the job when the engine cools off. I tighten the bolt when I am done with an electric impact wrench at home.

No mess, no fuss. If only the rest of the job was that easy.

I may be sorry next time, but a good Honda shop told me that when tightening with an electric wrench put blue Loctite on the threads and it wil prevent seizing. The factory service manual says to put engine oil on the threads. I think the important thing is to put SOMETHING on them to prevent seizing.

dataBoy
10-05-2002, 03:28 AM
Mike,
Yes, I am coming to the conclusion that that might really be the best way to go, slipping someone $5 to do it for me.

It seemed to me that that was going to be the hardest part of the job. What was hard for you? Any other tips?

Thanks
dataBoy

njpeter
12-31-2003, 06:42 AM
One time on a car I put the wrench on the crank pulley and put it against something in the suspension. I cranked the car and the bolt came loose. I definately don't recommend this but, maybe as a last resort.


of course now I'm back in the same old hole, bought a new electric impact gun ( 50-250pd-china ) and it did nuthin.

The crank bolt has to be spun counter clockwise yes?..I don't see how you could loosen it with a wrench and a crank.

anyhow, I'm off to find a friendly garage to spin the bolt off..needed a new electric lug wrench anyhow..the 12v one I bought from harbor frieght was just good for lugs..and it's already junk ( won't hit on loosen now). I don't recall jamming something in the timing hole..any newer tips appreciated. I'm not too inclined to put a torch on the bolt..maybe if the garage can't get it off either....:-(

danronian
01-03-2004, 10:39 PM
Maybe I should just buy an impact wrench. I see harbor Freight has one 240 ft lbs - $49. Should be good for as much as I'd use it.

Old? Heck, I'm 51

I also once bought a 1/2" 250lb $30 air impact wrench and it was worthless. I now have a 3/8" craftsman "professional series" impact wrench (which sat in a someones garage for years) which is twice as powerful. I also have a 1/2" craftsman that is amazingly powerful. With the torque setting alll the way up it takes off any lug nut that I have taken it up to. Now I just need an impact wrench deep socket set so the regular craftsman sockets don't shatter. I would torch the tough bolts and then use a big pipe over a craftsman ratchet and socket until you can find a name brand impact wrench.

k-roy
01-03-2004, 10:58 PM
There is a special tool available form the dealer that holds it pully in place. Its like $50.

rocky2
01-04-2004, 07:46 AM
If you had the time,you could make a "hammer wrench". It would hold the socket and extenstion on pully/bolt firmly. Weld just the right metal in place along side the inside diameter of the pully to hold it in place while you hit it with a sledge hammer maybe a 15-20 pounder,I've done two hondas with heat and a dam good impact and its still a pain. But using the starter is dangerous for a beginner mechanic, its a good idea to just slip someone some hard cash to just loosen it up though,this is where TOOLS become costly. I'm old too.

njpeter
01-04-2004, 08:21 AM
it was a one shot deal, but it was a pretty good air gun from the sound it made. I musta loosed it up with a few days of hammering and torchin, the guy didn't want money..but I slipped him a ten anyway. Never know when I'll need his airgun or perhaps a lift. real ratty-tat garage, I wondered who was working it for years. The tanks there were pulled a few years ago, and no new tanks went in, lost my favorite place to fill up, but the garage was still ruinning ( I figure he made rent on the truck parking spots and didn't give a poop for any other work)

Timing belt was a simple job after all, no headaches, cept the "dealer" mechanic that did it last time ( it broke when I was far from home) neglected to put the gasket or washer back in the timining cover..I I go over to my waiting engine and sure enough, the electric gun slips the bolt right out. The torqe ratiung for the bolt in my manual is under 100pounds. I am still going to buy a compressor now ( cause I am kinda old and it's just a hand thing to have around when you have lots of power equipment on hand ). Between the riding mower, wood chipper, snoblower, generator and the cars, I 'm surprised I have time for my real job.

As for the air gun, at least a 450 pound model for me..I'd gladly lay out $150 for the gun to prevent a monday morning backache from swinging hammers and pulling on breaker bars.

Have to do valve seals next..the smoke is getting a bit out of hand in the morning, and I'm sure its not doing the engine or cat any good ( did pass inspection well within rats this year..cept my neighbors hate me)

AccordEpicenter
01-04-2004, 06:07 PM
you might need way more pressure than that, check ur manuals. At the garage we run em at 170 i think, maybe 190... When it gets to 140 the compressor kicks on, but there is one hell of a difference with the impact type tools from 140-170+ psi. I tried using a friends compressor/impact wrench combo, and it wouldnt take off much, he was running 120 psi and it felt weak.

rocky2
01-04-2004, 07:11 PM
BEWARE!!!


When purchasing air compressor: airless are no good


Save up for a standup from home depot or sams club


airless save energy but cost you anyway with aggravations



I bought a sears when sears had good stuff but no more its sad



nothing with just 110 volt is worth beans


must be 220 volt,I believe

nswst8
01-04-2004, 08:53 PM
Hey Friends, A good size screw driver in the ring gear has always worked for me, a chain pipe wrench works well too, as long as you wrap the pulley with the old drive belt to protect the groves. But nothing beats compressed air Sears professional series 175 PSI this is what gets the impact to operate at its full torque rating anything under 130 PSI is only good for pulling lug nuts and nothing more. I got mine used at a Sears outlet store for $309 + 10% off for using the Sears charge (which was paid for in cash before the 25 day grace period) Even when using a cheap Campbell hausfield impact I can spin crank bolts all day. LOL
NSWST8

POS carb
01-05-2004, 06:25 AM
removing the bolt can be done by using something to jam the flywheel like you said, but you have to be careful with it, make sure you get it in a good spot
the other is put the thing in park or in gear, have 1 person to hold the brakes, and have someone else (yourself?) loosen the bolt

I did the flywheel one on my automatic