ac help

[jasonrebellion]

I've searched and not really found anything to help with this....How do I tell if my ac has been converted? It's not working, there are no under hood labels saying anything. When the car comes stock does it say somethin about R12? And has anybody ever restored the ac in a car that hasn't had it working for a long time? if so, how much did it cost to get it running again? my compressor doesn't come on but I think thats cause the freon is too low.... there's no squealing coming from it or anything...any help is appreciated, I'm probly giving this 3 g to my wife since its auto and I'm gonna get me a 5 speed 3g

Jason

[Bluntman]

I've searched and not really found anything to help with this....How do I tell if my ac has been converted? It's not working, there are no under hood labels saying anything. When the car comes stock does it say somethin about R12? And has anybody ever restored the ac in a car that hasn't had it working for a long time? if so, how much did it cost to get it running again? my compressor doesn't come on but I think thats cause the freon is too low.... there's no squealing coming from it or anything...any help is appreciated, I'm probly giving this 3 g to my wife since its auto and I'm gonna get me a 5 speed 3g

Jason

On mine I had to convert the high pressure and low pressure line nipple.The nipples are different. It is like an air tool male connecter. The stock ones do not fit the 134a charging canisters. You can get them at any auto parts. They are called R-12 to R-134a retrofit kit. It is just a few various nipples and caps to cap the nipple. And if a shop converted it there should be a sticker. This kit comes with a sticker.

[ecogabriel]

On mine I had to convert the high pressure and low pressure line nipple.The nipples are different. It is like an air tool male connecter. The stock ones do not fit the 134a charging canisters. You can get them at any auto parts. They are called R-12 to R-134a retrofit kit. It is just a few various nipples and caps to cap the nipple. And if a shop converted it there should be a sticker. This kit comes with a sticker.

R-12 ports look like tire valves (only bigger). Find the ports and unscrew the caps. One (the low pressure) is on a hose that goes to the compressor (nearby the distributor between radiator and engine I think); the high pressure is close to the battery.

[Bluntman]

R-12 ports look like tire valves (only bigger). Find the ports and unscrew the caps. One (the low pressure) is on a hose that goes to the compressor (nearby the distributor between radiator and engine I think); the high pressure is close to the battery.

Yep and remove the valve with a valve stem tool, and screw on the new connectors ( they have valves in them). I am lucky, my system had no pressure at all in it:lol:

[mephi]

I've searched and not really found anything to help with this....How do I tell if my ac has been converted? It's not working, there are no under hood labels saying anything. When the car comes stock does it say somethin about R12? And has anybody ever restored the ac in a car that hasn't had it working for a long time? if so, how much did it cost to get it running again? my compressor doesn't come on but I think thats cause the freon is too low.... there's no squealing coming from it or anything...any help is appreciated, I'm probly giving this 3 g to my wife since its auto and I'm gonna get me a 5 speed 3g

Jason

If your A/C has been converted there should be a rectangular turquoise sticker somewhere in the engine bay. You should still be able to get an R-12 recharge kit, and it shouldn't be all that much more than an R-134 recharge. If there are different nipples on there though--quick disconnect types, it has been converted. Then just add the appropriate amount of R-134 and try running it.

[nswst8]

Better check to see if you still have a vacuum. Putting freon in a positive pressure system will cause damage.

[ecogabriel]

A related question that would be useful here,

How do I check for A/C leaks?
I've read somewhere that you may add a dye w/ some freon and then check w/ a light (UV?)
I have a small leak (car gets from cold AC to cool AC in about a month; it seems to me that it leaks about 8-10 oz/mo) and I need to check where it may be.
R-12 is difficult to get and I do not want to vent the one I still have (both LXi and Civic use R-12) plus I'm reluctant to convert to R-134 yet (AC fully charged works beautiful!!! so f... cold!!!)
I'd like to find the leak and repair it before recharging the system

[2drSE-i]

You can add UV R-12 and check with a UV flashlight. Pretty easy really. R-134 isvery easy to convert to, check the how-to section.

[ecogabriel]

You can add UV R-12 and check with a UV flashlight. Pretty easy really. R-134 isvery easy to convert to, check the how-to section.

I assumed it was not very difficult (except for getting the UV R-12, or R-12 for that matter). Theoretically, one needs EPA license to handle R-12; I thought on taking the exam but I can't afford that right now.
(I would convert but same caveat applies -lack of time; I'll search for the thread as the compressor I have is NOT a Keihin -was told it was mostly unsuitable for conversion)
Is it possible to get a can of dye and somehow mix it with the R-12 I already have?
What about the electronic "sniffers"? I'm not talking about the ones that use a UV light; I saw a couple being sold on ebay. Any experience with those?
Thanks

[jasonrebellion]

you can buy r 12 off ebay. the sellers tell you to send a copy of your epa license or just an email stating you intend to "resale" the r-12. highly doubtful epa is gonna come hunt anybody down. where i live the gov't has got bigger fish to fry, as we have a serial killer running around, he's killed 5 people in the last week....

[ecogabriel]

I bought my R-12 cans from ebay a couple of years ago. The ones I got came from those who probably had a couple of cans left from an older car, a garage sale or something like that. I noticed that many of those selling in larger quantities ask for EPA certification only. I would have taken the exam (I even downloaded the material) but right now I am in quite a situation -I have a really "big fish to fry" in the coming weeks.

I'll start scanning for another extra can (so I can survive ATL summer...) until my time availability lets me tackle finding the leak and repairing it. I checked price for parts (seals and drier) and they are quite inexpensive. The only issue that I have not solved yet is what to do if the leak is on the compressor shaft seal (and getting R-12 recovered) I'll have time to think about it.

I read about the serial killer. How is it possible that a f@&#! lunatic gets a gun so easily and starts shooting left and right??? Once on the run they hard to catch -hit and run... hope his luck would run out soon.

[2drSE-i]

I want to add that i have NO experience with a/c work, none. This is all just stuff that i've read. Those electronic sniffers work really well supposedly. I was just reading on hater-tech about a/c converts. This is a GREAT write-up, this guy highly recommends the electronic sniffers.

[ecogabriel]

I have no experience either; but what you've said makes sense. I'll check it out once I put some other urgent stuff behind me.

Back to the first question of the thread, it seems to me that even if there is no refrigerant in the system the compressor should engage and then disengage once the low pressure switch sees that there is low pressure.
I had a car once that had a refrigerant leak; the compressor would engage without a problem and then disengage after 10-15 seconds... never bothered to fix it; the leak was in a hose (it was oily)

I would expect the compressor clutch kicking in with the switch is on; I would check electric circuit to see if compressor clutch gets power when A/C switch is on.

[nswst8]

I am no A/C technician, just a DIYer just trial and error over the years and I passed the EPA open book test.

And these cars are so easy to fix. I would replace all the o-rings. My leak was on the expansion valve/ evaporator and the hoses at the compressor. But since I had the system open I replaced all the o-rings.

As for the low pressure switch not engaging the compressor, might be time for another compressor.

As for reovering the R-12 if you don't have the equipment try to find a shop that can but don't expect to be compensated for it. Since most shop don't do R-12 anymore its not cost effective for them.

Take it to an a/c shop and have them put some gauges on for pressures.

THERE IS NO EASY FIX FOR R-12.