clark_486
07-21-2009, 12:45 PM
Things you will need:
1. A 10x1.25 40-50mm Bolt [Known to fit 86-87 models] you may want to take the bolt to the store to verify size and thread. Make sure it is threaded the whole length of the bolt. Also you need a scrap piece of steel about around 1/8" thick and maybe 3/4" x 4"-5" long
2. Some kind of anti-seize grease [Graphite grease has worked well for me]
3. PB Blaster to help free rusted bolts and nuts.
4. If you see that a bolt or nut is rusted you might want to use 6 point sockets to remove them as 12 point sockets can slip and destroy the bolt head or nut making it almost impossible to remove w/o permanent damage.
5. If you run up against a bolt or nut that is frozen with rust a LP torch will sometimes work to heat up and allow removal. Warning: be careful of the brake lines if using heat. Heat can be used with PB Blaster or other penetrating lubricants. Be careful when using the two together as most are highly flammable.
6. A jack, jack stands, and a friend to help hold stuff and such.
If your car has a lot of rusted frozen bolts and nuts on the suspension my friend and i developed a way to easly remove the shock from the fork with out cutting the fork bolt or removing the fork from the car.
first remove the tires and outer CV shaft nuts. [If you cant get them off its not a big deal however you have to take special care that you don't dislocate the CV shafts inner or outer joints.]
Next remove the upper arm from the frame.
[Drivers side: You will need to move the wiper motor out of the way to get to one of the nuts. Remove the 4 bolts and then slowly push the wipers up by hand. As you move the wipers toward the end of their normal travel the motor should be able to be rotated clockwise against the firewall. once it is in 11-12 o clock position you should be able to remove both upper arm nuts.]
[Passenger side: You will need to move the black 'mystery box' with the vacuum lines coming out of it. Remove the two bolts from the firewall, remove the wire cover from the far left side, remove the two wire harness' from the black box, pull the box up out of the retainer on the firewall and place the box near the intake (usually upside down so as not to stress the vacuum lines) The two upper arm nuts should now be visible. Remove them.
Once the upper arm is loose from the frame remove the outer CV spindle from the wheel hub. This will protect the CV shaft joints later on.
Now remove the brake line brackets from the shock and control arm. Also Remove the Pinch bolt from the fork.
Next Remove the three nuts and washers from the shock top located on the shock tower. You may want to remove the plastic shock top cover for increased visibility.
You should now be able to tip the shock away from the car. If it wont clear the fender or you have trouble getting it out of the shock tower have someone lightly put weight on the outside edge of the rotor and pull the shock down and toward you.
Once the shock is loose on top get your 40+mm 10x1.25 Metric bolt and carefully thread it into the fork on the threaded side. This is the opposite side from the original pinch bolt. after its been threaded most of the way in, stick the scrap steel in the gap in the back of the fork and tighten the bolt till the steel stays in place. Now ratchet the bolt tighter. This will spread the fork out enough so that you can turn the shock part way and it seems loose enough to pull out. Then back off the bolt untill its back in the threaded part of the fork and not touching the side of the shock.
you should now be able to pull the shock down out of the fender well and out of the fork.
Before you put anything back together take your anti-seize graphite grease or something that will discourage the nuts and bolts from seizing up and coat any studs, bolts, splines, and nuts that where removed. Put some on the base of the new shock to aid installation and future removal.
Now put everything back in reversed order that it was taken out.
1. A 10x1.25 40-50mm Bolt [Known to fit 86-87 models] you may want to take the bolt to the store to verify size and thread. Make sure it is threaded the whole length of the bolt. Also you need a scrap piece of steel about around 1/8" thick and maybe 3/4" x 4"-5" long
2. Some kind of anti-seize grease [Graphite grease has worked well for me]
3. PB Blaster to help free rusted bolts and nuts.
4. If you see that a bolt or nut is rusted you might want to use 6 point sockets to remove them as 12 point sockets can slip and destroy the bolt head or nut making it almost impossible to remove w/o permanent damage.
5. If you run up against a bolt or nut that is frozen with rust a LP torch will sometimes work to heat up and allow removal. Warning: be careful of the brake lines if using heat. Heat can be used with PB Blaster or other penetrating lubricants. Be careful when using the two together as most are highly flammable.
6. A jack, jack stands, and a friend to help hold stuff and such.
If your car has a lot of rusted frozen bolts and nuts on the suspension my friend and i developed a way to easly remove the shock from the fork with out cutting the fork bolt or removing the fork from the car.
first remove the tires and outer CV shaft nuts. [If you cant get them off its not a big deal however you have to take special care that you don't dislocate the CV shafts inner or outer joints.]
Next remove the upper arm from the frame.
[Drivers side: You will need to move the wiper motor out of the way to get to one of the nuts. Remove the 4 bolts and then slowly push the wipers up by hand. As you move the wipers toward the end of their normal travel the motor should be able to be rotated clockwise against the firewall. once it is in 11-12 o clock position you should be able to remove both upper arm nuts.]
[Passenger side: You will need to move the black 'mystery box' with the vacuum lines coming out of it. Remove the two bolts from the firewall, remove the wire cover from the far left side, remove the two wire harness' from the black box, pull the box up out of the retainer on the firewall and place the box near the intake (usually upside down so as not to stress the vacuum lines) The two upper arm nuts should now be visible. Remove them.
Once the upper arm is loose from the frame remove the outer CV spindle from the wheel hub. This will protect the CV shaft joints later on.
Now remove the brake line brackets from the shock and control arm. Also Remove the Pinch bolt from the fork.
Next Remove the three nuts and washers from the shock top located on the shock tower. You may want to remove the plastic shock top cover for increased visibility.
You should now be able to tip the shock away from the car. If it wont clear the fender or you have trouble getting it out of the shock tower have someone lightly put weight on the outside edge of the rotor and pull the shock down and toward you.
Once the shock is loose on top get your 40+mm 10x1.25 Metric bolt and carefully thread it into the fork on the threaded side. This is the opposite side from the original pinch bolt. after its been threaded most of the way in, stick the scrap steel in the gap in the back of the fork and tighten the bolt till the steel stays in place. Now ratchet the bolt tighter. This will spread the fork out enough so that you can turn the shock part way and it seems loose enough to pull out. Then back off the bolt untill its back in the threaded part of the fork and not touching the side of the shock.
you should now be able to pull the shock down out of the fender well and out of the fork.
Before you put anything back together take your anti-seize graphite grease or something that will discourage the nuts and bolts from seizing up and coat any studs, bolts, splines, and nuts that where removed. Put some on the base of the new shock to aid installation and future removal.
Now put everything back in reversed order that it was taken out.