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View Full Version : HELP!! i think i messed my engine up!



mattr89lxi
07-31-2009, 12:37 PM
so iv kind..welll really bin falling behind on my oil changes..n just added it up n it bin like almost 12,000 mile without a change!!!:huh:

NOW MY CARS PUTTIN AND BACKFIRING! AND I CHECKED THE OIL AND ITS ALL THE WAY TO THE BENT PART ON THE DIPSTICK AND IS BLACK AND BUBBLY WHAT SHOULD I DO? I CANT AFFORD AN OIL CHANGE! SHOULD I JUST ATLEAST ADD SOME OIL TO TOP IT OFF TILL I CAN AFFORD A DRAIN AND FILL??

ALSO HEY WERE DO I FILL THE OIL FRUM? WERE THE OIL CAP IS? OR WER THE DIP STICK IS? HAHA I KNOW RETARDED QUESTION BUT I REALY DONT KNOW WERE?

Hauntd ca3
07-31-2009, 02:28 PM
on the dip stick , there will be 2 holes, the top hole is the max level.
much higher than that and the crank will be hitting the oil, throwing it every where.
that can cause the rough running like you've said you have.
the oil cap is on the top of the motor, looks like a star type thingee and will have oil or huile or a big honda H on it.
there have been dafter questions here so dont feel like a dope

conozo
07-31-2009, 05:55 PM
you really should just change the oil. It will save you money in the long run. You can look for coupons and typically find an oil and filter change for 19.95. My honda dealer here in town does oil changes for 19.95 without a coupon. Its really worth it especially if you dont want to do it yourself.

mephi
08-01-2009, 12:33 AM
I just pull it into the garage. $12 of oil and like $3 for the filter. I go through a lot of oil, so I buy the cheap stuff. Of course then you have to recycle the oil on your own. There is a dump site near where I live, and often Schucks or its affiliates will take used oil.

Civic Accord Honda
08-01-2009, 12:42 AM
or you can just dig a hole and dump the oil in it... i dont do that.. (A)


and man 12k on a oil change si nothing went 14k my last one (im changing it this time tomarrow at 4k tho:P) and my parrents have gone well over 60k miles on oil changes lol

but yes oil should be changed every 7500k miles according to honda.
but it sounds like you ether have to much or to little oil in it or it could be something completely un related to oil which is my bet

Dr_Snooz
08-02-2009, 08:33 PM
or you can just dig a hole and dump the oil in it... i dont do that.. (A)


and man 12k on a oil change si nothing went 14k my last one (im changing it this time tomarrow at 4k tho:P) and my parrents have gone well over 60k miles on oil changes lol

but yes oil should be changed every 7500k miles according to honda.
but it sounds like you ether have to much or to little oil in it or it could be something completely un related to oil which is my bet

I'd like to point out that CAH has an interesting habit of sending cars to the crusher. You're definitely on that same track and should consider yourself lucky each time the car starts. At the very least, get some dirt cheap oil and leave the old filter. It's not easy being poor and if the choice is between food and oil, then you gotta do what you gotta do. Just be aware that you aren't saving money when the downside is expensive engine repairs, failed emissions inspections, fines, impounds and biking to work.

I do agree that your symptoms don't sound like an oil issue. The oil will cause rod knock and/or blue smoke out the tailpipe.

Be strong dude. Poverty sucks and the car is probably the least of your worries. I hope everything works out.

ecogabriel
08-03-2009, 05:24 AM
I'd like to point out that CAH has an interesting habit of sending cars to the crusher. You're definitely on that same track and should consider yourself lucky each time the car starts. At the very least, get some dirt cheap oil and leave the old filter.

Oil changes is ideal DIY thing. Probably one of the cheapest ways to do it is go to walmart and pick up 4 quarts of its oil (supertech) and filter. The car takes less of 4 quarts but more than three. Money? We're talking probably 10-11 dollars

You may want to extend oil changes if you cannot afford them but you should NEVER let oil go under the minimum level in the dipstick or above the maximum level. Check your dipstick BEFORE adding oil.

Oil changes may be difficult to afford but you should also consider this: can you afford another car right now? Can you afford going through an expensive engine repair in your current situation? How badly you need the car? Those questions should be part of your consideration too.

Used oil can be recycled; you may find a recycle center in the link below
http://earth911.com/automotive/
Autozone also collects used oil.

cygnus x-1
08-03-2009, 09:02 PM
Running low on oil is not a great thing to do, but it can be done for awhile without damage. What you absolutely DO NOT want to do though is run it so low that the oil light comes on. As long as that light stays off (with the engine running) you're ok.

As for running on old oil, I'll admit I tend to not be very good about doing it at regular intervals. But then it also depends on circumstances. With my truck for example (Nissan Frontier) I tend to run it for 7k-10k or more between changes. But then I also use Mobil 1 synthetic so it doesn't break down like petroleum based oil does. So sometimes I'll just change the filter to keep it clean and top it up. As long as you have good filtration synthetic oil can last for a VERY long time.

On my diesel powered Suzuki contraption I have yet to ever actually drain the oil. It burns it so fast it isn't worth the trouble. In maybe 4000 miles it's gone through like 5 gallons of oil. So what would be the point in changing it? (Yes, I said gallons. It's that bad!)

The 'lude I try to keep up with because I rebuilt the engine in 2006, so I want to try and keep it in good shape.


One thing you can do that might help if you need to stretch it, especially if it's low, is to top it up with some 20W50 grade oil, or even straight 30 or 40 weight. It doesn't cost any more and the extra viscosity should help to minimize wear. And if you can swing it, oil is usually cheaper by the gallon. So just use what you need and keep the rest for later.


Oh, and don't check the oil level right after you shut off the engine. Let it sit for awhile so the oil can settle back down into the pan. You will get a more accurate reading that way.

The bubbly oil might just be from normal splashing around. Do you have any white foamy looking stuff on the under side of the oil cap? If so that would indicate there is moisture in the crank case, which means you probably have other issues. The sputtering and back firing is likely not related to the oil.

C|