how to convert the brake booster check valve to threaded fittings.

[lostforawhile]

This might be useful for some people, on my manifold setup, I ran a modified fuel rail across the front to carry vaccume from one side to the other, i have been thinking of a way to put in the booster check valve for a while, here's the original idea first, this is a side view of the complete setup, i originally made a block that screwed on to the end of the rail,it was split in the middle, so vaccume flowed in one side,turned 90 degrees,went to the valve, then came back into the block, turned 90 degrees and went to the rail that was carrying vaccume. had this setup in there for a long time, but it's just too many hoses,and i still end up with ugly rubber hoses, http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/some%20new%20car%20pictues/S4028688.jpg



http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/vaccumedirection.jpg
What i decided to do was modify the check valve to threaded fittings,so i could screw it right on to the end of the fuel rail,

The check valve in stock form has barbed fittings, i carefully ground off the plastic flares, the diameter is within .002 of the nominal diameter for 10x1.25 metric threads. i simply used a die and threaded the plastic.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4028705.jpg

On the engine side, i used a 1/4 NTP to 1/4 NPT aluminum coupler, i reamed out the inside to 21/64 diameter,which is close enough to tap for 10x1.25 internal threads this is the AN coupler side,but it's the same thing. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4028703.jpg

I used the pipe coupler on one side and an AN flare adaptor on the other to go straight to an AN line, you can use 1/4 pipe couplers on both sides if you want. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4028705.jpg


Since these are straight metric threads, they won't self seal like a tapered thread, i coated the plastic threads with an epoxy,before screwing them into the adaptors, this will seal the threads and prevent vaccume leakage. I used a pretty high tech epoxy but any plastic compatible epoxy will do the same.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4028706.jpg

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4028708.jpg

You don't need a fancy machine shop to do this,you can use a drill press and a good vise on it and do the same.

[Civic Accord Honda]

nice! i had to replace my brake booster line last week

[b20a86lude]

woa wow thats awsome can u make me a check valve please .

also i was thinikin of doing all my brake lines with braidied hoses . to my mc and porption vlave wat u think on that

i iwsih u were fi ,cuz some stuff u do i dont know if i can apply it to my fi or not

[lostforawhile]

woa wow thats awsome can u make me a check valve please .

also i was thinikin of doing all my brake lines with braidied hoses . to my mc and porption vlave wat u think on that

i iwsih u were fi ,cuz some stuff u do i dont know if i can apply it to my fi or not;leave you steel brake lines like they are ,they are double wall double flare lines, that is one application where they are not supposed to be, regular AN hose doesn't need to go in the lines from the caliper to the hard line eithier, the braided hoses you see sold are a special high pressure hose, i can do the vaccume check valve, i'l get with you about what you are running and where

[lostforawhile]

let me know what kind of fittings you want to run,for the check valve if you have a normal setup, you can probably run rubber hose,i have an odd setup that requires the AN stuff. f you want standard pipe thread, I'll need a booster check valve,a stock one, and a couple of aluminum 1/4 npt pipe thread couplers, I say aluminum because the cheap plumbing store ones are heavy and i'm not sure what the inside diameter is. standard pipe thread aluminum stuff like aeroquip or jegs all use standards so they will be the same as what i did, I would have some,but i'm out of those right now.