I got my setup done.

[Bass Man]

This is a first for a lot of things for me. I built my first double baffle, selectable port, sub box. My daily is not tuned as low as I like, but I'll be fine.
Here are some pics. Couldn't get an amp shot, cuz it's under the passenger seat, but I got 2 pics of the important stuff. lol
(I don't have any important wires showing, the ones you might spot under the dash have been removed. They were for the system that was in it about 5 years before I got it.)
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/848/dsc00410c.jpg
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/8509/dsc00412q.jpg

Here's the video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptxBliXEpic&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Estevemeadedesigns%2Ecom%2F board%2Findex%2Ephp%3Fshowtopic%3D53661&feature=player_embedded

[danny nr crew]

haha damn that must be loud lol nice :thumbup:

[Tomisimo]

umm.. nice but where do you put your groceries?

and I bet it rattles your trunk...

[Tdurr]

umm.. nice but where do you put your groceries?

and I bet it rattles your trunk...

in his lap lol.

[Civic Accord Honda]

Hells yeah!! i gotta get a 10" sub for my California a600xl ^_^

[Civic Accord Honda]

umm.. nice but where do you put your groceries?

and I bet it rattles your trunk...

back seat? and its supposed to rattle the shit out of the trunk like king kong is back thar!

[Bass Man]

It's my loudest yet, and that's saying a lot. I'm not a professional DB meter, but compared to others numbers, I should be pretty close to 143-5 on a TL, which is pretty damn good for a trunk, and I have a LOT of room for improvement, like rounding my ports, and building a divider might help significantly, cuz right around my tuning frequency, I get some really bad phasing issues (what it looks like), but I checked both my leads and they are 4.1 ohms (which is weird, cuz they are dvc 4ohm hooked in parrellel... Damn box rise...)

[Rendon LX-i]

sweeeeeeeet

[MessyHonda]

cool you like to kill alternators too

[Tomisimo]

back seat? and its supposed to rattle the shit out of the trunk like king kong is back thar!

Have you ever heard a kinkong rattling a trunk? BrrrrBRRRzzzz Bzzz BrrrRRR ZZz. I see those alot here, kinda enoing really. But if you like a gorilla in the trunk its up to you, I mean that one sud have enough for hem self to listen, not for ppl on the street.
But yea, looks nice BassMan, I guess you live up to your name :D And what Messy said, maybe its wise to install an extra battery? and get a crossover to get rid of that buzzing at certain frequency. What about midle range frequency? those subs can overdub those easy..

[Hazwan]

That shit must be loud haha :thumbup:

[Bass Man]

Like I stress, if you have the right connections, you won't hurt your electrical system too bad. Right now, I can play at full tilt (about an 80 amp draw) for 5 minutes and I will be down to at most, 13volts. It stays right at 14v with the system off, so I think I'll put a 1/0gauge wire from the battery to the body, cuz that 8awg probably hates me.

My theory is, if you can't keep one battery up, 2 is gonna make it worse. An alternator upgrade is second in line behind the big 3.

I might go to the next M&G depending on how much I like to drive it (weber might get good gas milage and burn a hole in a piston... I think the primaries are way lean and the secondaries are way rich...)

[Rendon LX-i]

thats why i have 2 batterys...no stress at all...i have hit 1 omh stable if i wanted to LOL...but thats to much ..and i have a over kill for my tweets. Do you have everthing ran with amps...? i have my 2 10 kenwoods on the mono kenwood, and the mb quarts on phonix gold amp.... if you check out my garage pics you can see my setup there....

after a while you well kill your alt thou even thou..... its doing good now. thats why i got another battery/cap. to control that. did you test it with a full load as in EVERYTHING ON then hitting the bass mad type.....

Either way good to see it bumping good

[Civic Accord Honda]

my battery for some reason cant even keep up with my deck with my amp unhooked played at anything above 25 of 50 and nothing above 18 if the amp is hooked up O.o its a pretty nice redtop duralast battery too.. it might just need a good charging tho

[AccordB20A]

drawing a solid 80 amps is pretty good. quality amps for the win. My alternator issues have gone away when that silly cheap amp got thrown away. my big amp now which "says" its rated at 600w rms X 2 at nearly full blast doesnt even make my lights dim at all and the old one which was rated at 300w rms did and blew countless alternators. for wiring i have two strands of 4 gauge in parallel from the battery. my old amp nearly burnt the old alternator wire out it got real hot so upgraded it to 4 gauge

[Bass Man]

I only got the one amp, but it would be nice to run another amp for my mids and highs, but I don't think it's nessesary right now.

If I do anything, I'll probably get an XS batcap and hide it somewhere. I only run my system that loud for demo's or similar. I try to keep my electrical system in line and not fry anything too fast.

CAH: Make sure you have a good ground on your head unit and a really good connection for your grounds on your battery. That will usually do it.

B20A: It's usually the efficiency that affects draw, and cheap amps are usually A/B class, which you probably already know, is not efficient, but better for sound quality. My Crunch is a D-class and it shows it!! lol

[headbanger]

ha.You got yours done an my cd player conked out.Looking good man.I was thinking I wonder if a body could put 2 alternators on just put it in the same place ac pump goes whadda ya think bassman?An run it back to the rear battery.

[Civic Accord Honda]

CAH: Make sure you have a good ground on your head unit and a really good connection for your grounds on your battery. That will usually do it.



i just checked my battery ground to the engine today and its a fat ass ground but when looked at the bare wire its all corroded to hell so ima change all the cables out and see if that helps!

[AccordB20A]

ha.You got yours done an my cd player conked out.Looking good man.I was thinking I wonder if a body could put 2 alternators on just put it in the same place ac pump goes whadda ya think bassman?An run it back to the rear battery.

i was thinking of doing that, running two seperate battery and alternator circuits oner for the car and one for the amps with a swtich to join the two if you left your lights on u cud jump start of the rear battery or if you ran ur amp battery flat but still want to play music lolk

[Bass Man]

Most auto parts outlets sell a battery isolator for that same perpose.

It would be nice to put a GM alt in there, but I think they spin the wrong way.

[AccordB20A]

i dont think it matters for an alternator what way it spins

[markmdz89hatch]

Most auto parts outlets sell a battery isolator for that same perpose.

It would be nice to put a GM alt in there, but I think they spin the wrong way.


The good part for you is that because you're a DX, you can run the alt from an LX without any trouble, and it should have a greater load rating because it's made for the loads of the power windows and other power controls that the DX doesn't have.

When I had a full system in my hatch, I used the stock Alt with the best wiring and terminals I could get my hands on, soldered every ring terminal, etc and ran it for about 2 years on the original alternator that came with the car before it finally conked out on me. ...no cap either. And that was feeding the Alpine V12's (MRV-357 and 757) to Boston Acoustic Pro components (2 sets, front and rear) and pair of JL 10W3(v2)'s.

I agree with Bass, if you do it right, and you are just aware of what draw you have, you can make a stock alt last a long while.

[Bass Man]

I think I got an LXI alt in there since I put the 88 LXI long block in.

I took a gander at the only ground wire coming off my battery, and I was amazed that it was only around 6awg and it didn't look too good, either, but I went down the road last night with my lights on and tested out my bass, and it didn't dim as bad as it should have, plus I couldn't get it much under 14v's, but I only played it for a minute or two.

[amcinstaller]

nice! MDF nightmares rule :rockon: i had one like that in my corsica one time. was awesome, 1900 watts to two 12s, and a battery from a com tower in the trunk lmao. get it mic'd i wanna see real numbers!!

[Bass Man]

Not very many places that have meters, let alone term labs. I guess there are competitions up north of me, but I don't have a clue when or where.

[charliekuney]

Speaking of setups; I almost bought three new 12" JL's for $250. I should have got them.

[89lxisedan]

careful with the subs my dad does automotive glass work, and had a kid come in who just put in a sub and blew out his back window so be careful

[charliekuney]

Exactly why I decided not to get them at that time.

[Bass Man]

careful with the subs my dad does automotive glass work, and had a kid come in who just put in a sub and blew out his back window so be careful

:bowrofl: Now that's funny!

If you weren't joking, though, there is no system out there (under 170db's) that can break glass. That is the biggest car audio myth in the business.

The only way you can crack your windshield is with a pre-existing chip or crack, and even then you need 2 18's in a wall with 10,000watts RMS.

This is the car I'm refering to, minus the wall:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7wVhaWtDdA

Those 18's are serious business. One of the great subs out there right now. Both of them are aiming for the rear hatch glass and he eventually broke his windshield, but I'm not sure if it was his bass.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUL3dFx3U_A

[markmdz89hatch]

Speaking of setups; I almost bought three new 12" JL's for $250. I should have got them.

Charlie, 3 JL's for $250 is not a bad deal, but how good of a deal entirely depends on what model. Three 12W0's at that price is an ok deal, but three 12W7's is a fugghin bargain that you should jump right on.

BTW, Bass_Man is right, any 3 12's you toss in the trunk of your coupe will never ever ever pop your glass or break anything other than maybe your alternator, and might keep kicking your rear view out of place. But other than that it's just a lot of bass. IMO too much.


:bowrofl: Now that's funny!

If you weren't joking, though, there is no system out there (under 170db's) that can break glass. That is the biggest car audio myth in the business.

The only way you can crack your windshield is with a pre-existing chip or crack, and even then you need 2 18's in a wall with 10,000watts RMS.

This is the car I'm refering to, minus the wall:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7wVhaWtDdA

Those 18's are serious business. One of the great subs out there right now. Both of them are aiming for the rear hatch glass and he eventually broke his windshield, but I'm not sure if it was his bass.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUL3dFx3U_A

Agreed. Back in the day, I was at a Db shoot out (I did not compete, as I was more Sound-Q than Db) and a guy with a CRX rolled in with a pair of CV 15"s (Cerwin Vega for those not "in the know" of ol' skool) and the Db out of that thing was unGodly, but no window pops.

HOWEVER, I did witness a pair of Kicker Solo 12 Square's that were basically sitting directly (like no more than a few inches) under the glass hatch of a 1st Gen Eclipse, and although the glass didn't pop, it was damn near it. The rubber seal around the glass looked like the seal on the sub. The window was easily flexing a good half-inch. I'm confident if he pushed it harder, or maybe tossed another 12 in there (with good power of course) he might have popped he glass. Not broke the glass, but pushed it clean out by the seals/gaskets.

...oh the days of stupid bass.

I loved that db shoot out with the CRX/CV's because it was across the street from a police station and when an old Golf showed up with screwed in 1/2" thick lexan windows, and they used a 3" ratcheting tow strap across the doors to keep everything in place, then stood back at their remote deck and cranked it up... ....all car alarms in that parking lot, along with mine, as well as all alarms at the police station and dealership next to it, all started going off. Odd though, it shows that when you get so low (like sub 12Hz) it's no longer audible to the human ear, but you can feel it, and apparently so can the tilt/shock sensors in the alarms. ...oh that was one of my favorite moments in db land.

[amcinstaller]

agreed. no bass will ever break glass. unless you have madd cone area firing into a large window (like a back window in a bronco) with multiple 18s firing into it, with the entire cavity sealed. i still need numbers!!!:cheers:

[charliekuney]

They were from some rich guy, out of his Range Rover.

[Bass Man]

Probably W3's... Good guess? :dunno:

I got to legally drive it today, and it was FUN! I love driving this car! I went to the closest "city" (big town) and I acually set off a car alarm on the opposite side of a 3-lane road and I wasn't playing it at the fullest, so it kinda scared me, then I noticed what it was and got a big smile... lol.

I should try to get a shot of my trunk flex, cuz it's pretty cool to watch!


Hey Mark, were those strokers by chance? I've never heard them personally, but they are still hard to beat to this day, if that say's anything.

[Civic Accord Honda]

i wanna see videos of trunk flex at full volume :D

[Bass Man]

I tried to get a video, but it was the wrong song and the flex was weak... I'll have to play Jeezy 24-23 chopped and screwed on the video.

[Civic Accord Honda]

nah play some lil jon!! throw it up !! orrrr da blow

[Bass Man]

Them songs are too high for my flex. I think 24-23 is somewhere around 25 and 28hz. lol

[AccordB20A]

lol laptop + signal generator parked in the farest corner away from a bunch of cars is the best fun you will have in an underground carpark

[markmdz89hatch]

Probably W3's... Good guess? :dunno:

I got to legally drive it today, and it was FUN! I love driving this car! I went to the closest "city" (big town) and I acually set off a car alarm on the opposite side of a 3-lane road and I wasn't playing it at the fullest, so it kinda scared me, then I noticed what it was and got a big smile... lol.

I should try to get a shot of my trunk flex, cuz it's pretty cool to watch!


Hey Mark, were those strokers by chance? I've never heard them personally, but they are still hard to beat to this day, if that say's anything.

I must see trunk flex. lol.

If they're W3 (v2's .. aka second gen W3 with dual voice coil at 6 ohm), then it's a friggen bargain. The second Gen's are basically the same as the first gen W6. They're probably around 10 yrs old by now, but as long as the rubber doesn't have any dry-rot and the cone is in good shape, you should be fine.

Strokers or not, I honestly don't know. They bang like no others, but at that point, they sound like shit. I never really got into something that could band like that, as I was more about sound-Q (hence my setup). I personally prefer 10's over 12's because they're recoil is so much faster with good clean power, so they could hit an insanely fast repeat without getting muddy.

I had this bass CD which was just a pure workout for a good system to show itself off.

My favorite was the flow. It was a high pitch that started exercising the tweets, then mids, then went DEEP down to about 15Hz. It was a steady flow, no hits at all, and oh man was it like a rollercoaster ride when it started getting low. First is hurts the ears at the highs, then gets crazy in teh mids, then it get's to about 200Hz and it's moving into the subs, then at about 50Hz you feel it in your spleen and your ears are thumping, then as it moves into the inaudible range (20Hz down to 15-10Hz) you just see the subs moving, and feel it, but it's a weird silence. LOVE IT. Damn, now you got me wanting to get back into that stupidly expensive hobby.

[Tomisimo]

I agree with Mark 10" or 8" subs are the thing, if you want Q sound system.

In my former town there is one guy who has a stationwagen with 2 front seats, all trunk and rear seats are stappfull with subs and what not, he has 2 5or6" tubes that release pressure from the box, If you take a CD and hold it in front of one of them it will shutter the cd in pieces. I was looking at this show from my car and maybe like 50yards away, seriously, I felt like the bass was from my car or was playing in my car.

[Bass Man]

Watch some of Steve Meade's stuff and he will show you that 18's can hit just as punchy as 10's or 12's.

[Civic Accord Honda]

-still waiting for flex video

[89lxisedan]

:bowrofl: Now that's funny!

If you weren't joking, though, there is no system out there (under 170db's) that can break glass. That is the biggest car audio myth in the business.

The only way you can crack your windshield is with a pre-existing chip or crack, and even then you need 2 18's in a wall with 10,000watts RMS.

This is the car I'm refering to, minus the wall:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7wVhaWtDdA

Those 18's are serious business. One of the great subs out there right now. Both of them are aiming for the rear hatch glass and he eventually broke his windshield, but I'm not sure if it was his bass.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUL3dFx3U_A

i didn't personally see it but my dad told me that the kid just had all the audio equiment installed, and it was loud according to the kids mom but now that you mention that it takes 170db to blow out the glass my dad may just be making an excuse to tell the kids mom. but why he would tell me that i don't know unless he thinks i listen to my music too loud lol

[Bass Man]

Speaking of Steve Meade and windows, he broke his back window out of his Civic with 1 18". Check THAT out!

I am getting burnt out on the video stuff, so it's gonna take some effort to do more video's, and the cam doesn't pick up flex very well, at least not on the song I was talking about earlier.