proper oil pressure fitting adaptor,

[lostforawhile]

This is the fitting you need to adapt the oil pressure sender over to add a gauge, these seem to be very high quality steel, much better then any others i've seen,they are also listed as high pressure for hydraulics, so they will be fine in the oil system. these are from Mcmaster-carr part number 4936K408, the fitting i'm talking about is the steel part, the blue part are the AN adaptors , you need this because the threads in the oil filter adaptor,as well as lots of other honda thread are Brittish standard pipe thread, your gauge adaptors used
over here are 1/8 npt, the engine uses 1/8 bsp , you can try to screw one in and force it ,but you will end up damaging the soft aluminum, there is a one thread per inch difference, they look exactly the same but they aren't. this one thread per inch difference is just enough to damage your threads. Some people will say just force it in there, but those of us who want it done correctly will use the adaptor. someone sticky this please and lets end the debate on the proper fittings.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020100-3.jpg

[Dr_Snooz]

I used a similar adapter from MSC Industrial Supply based on your recommendation in this thread: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29329&highlight=british&page=2. It worked and works very well but it looks like they're out of business or something now.

This is a good reminder. I definitely would have buggered up my filter base had I not read that thread beforehand. I highly highly recommend a gauge pack if you're at all interested in keeping your car for any significant length of time. At 20+ years, stuff starts happening and the gauge pack gives you a window into the car you wouldn't otherwise have (given that the stock oil light comes on at a meager 3 psi). I have a vacuum gauge as well that I really dig.

[lostforawhile]

I used a similar adapter from MSC Industrial Supply based on your recommendation in this thread: http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29329&highlight=british&page=2. It worked and works very well but it looks like they're out of business or something now.

This is a good reminder. I definitely would have buggered up my filter base had I not read that thread beforehand. I highly highly recommend a gauge pack if you're at all interested in keeping your car for any significant length of time. At 20+ years, stuff starts happening and the gauge pack gives you a window into the car you wouldn't otherwise have (given that the stock oil light comes on at a meager 3 psi). I have a vacuum gauge as well that I really dig.they are well in buisness, we order from them all the time at work, as a matter of fact i have one of their 90 pound catalogs with my feet on it. i ued a block to keep a warning light plus a gauge, i used an autometer warning switch set at 20 psi. I just tried MSC's online catalog and it's down, it goes down from time to time, but they haven't gone anywhere

[Rendon LX-i]

i got mine from stealthmodeperformance.com....its a 1/8 bspt not bpt like a common fitting....finner thread.

[lostforawhile]

i got mine from stealthmodeperformance.com....its a 1/8 bspt not bpt like a common fitting....finner thread.
right thats what i meant, thats what bsp is short for

[stat1K]

whats the oil pressure supposed to be on the a motors?

on my d idle warm according to honda is supposed to be 10-12psi and cold is 60psi...

my cold on my rebuilt motor is 100psi and idle is about 20psi using a hamp filter.

is the A motor that much more or are you planning on higher pressure?

[lostforawhile]

whats the oil pressure supposed to be on the a motors?

on my d idle warm according to honda is supposed to be 10-12psi and cold is 60psi...

my cold on my rebuilt motor is 100psi and idle is about 20psi using a hamp filter.

is the A motor that much more or are you planning on higher pressure? it's not any different then a lot of other motors this seems to be a better made adaptor is all,as far as the construction, when they make them for hydraulic use ,the quality is a little better then the standard adaptor

[RobT5580]

I used the stealth mode one in the past but they no longer use the dual out one that i could find. And i have heard of issues of these types of adaptors breaking off due to the leverage they tend to have. I did break my stealth mode one off when taking my motor out so i will probably opt for the sandwich style adaptor this time around granted its far more expensive. But mine is for my turbo so its more critical in my application rather than a gauge providing you catch it fast enough in the event of a fitting failure.

[lostforawhile]

I used the stealth mode one in the past but they no longer use the dual out one that i could find. And i have heard of issues of these types of adaptors breaking off due to the leverage they tend to have. I did break my stealth mode one off when taking my motor out so i will probably opt for the sandwich style adaptor this time around granted its far more expensive. But mine is for my turbo so its more critical in my application rather than a gauge providing you catch it fast enough in the event of a fitting failure.
why are you trying to tee it off at the block? run a section of line a short distance ,then install the tee, an adaptor going to a line is not going to break off at the block,a bunch of stuff hanging off is.

[lostforawhile]

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4020317-1.jpg

[AccordEpicenter]

i use the stealthmode performance adaptor and have had zero issues

[Johnny O]

Autometer also sells that adapter also.

[lostforawhile]

I was hoping this one was a bit cheaper and the same thing, usually the quality stuff from the industrial supply places is the same as the name brand without the price tag.