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conozo
09-07-2009, 05:50 PM
Heres the story: My tires on my wheels need replacement. Last time it cost me $400 with a buy 3 get 1 free. This time im much poorer. So i realized that i could fix everything on the car, get new winter tires, and have some spare parts if i buy a parts car. So the search began, three weeks later i found an 88 LXI 5 speed for $300. Body exterior and interior are in bad shape, engine, transmission, and FI parts are all in good condition. Also my car just rolled over 200,000, so to celebrate that, i'm giving it an upgrade.

I will be converting from carb to fi, fixing rear brake issue i have had for the past 100k miles, converting the a/c and heater controls, sway bars, auto to 5 speed, refinishing honda wheels for winter use, and other miscellaneous parts.

Pics of the parts car.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/partscarpreview%20%282%29.jpg
Wheels in good shape, really just need cleaning, but i will refinish them.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/partscarpreview%20%281%29.jpg
5 speed and fancy power window buttons.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/partscarpreview%20%283%29.jpg

So today i got both cars in the garage and started taking body parts off the parts car.

Dr_Snooz
09-07-2009, 06:18 PM
So awesome! Congrats! Keep us updated with pics.

Bass Man
09-07-2009, 06:18 PM
Sweet! How much for the weber?

jasonrebellion
09-07-2009, 06:18 PM
my car looks almost as bad as your parts car lol....my interior's not too bad except for the half broke armrest

EDIT: WOW 3 POSTS AT 6 18

conozo
09-07-2009, 06:26 PM
Sweet! How much for the weber?

I will be selling the weber in a week or two, once i make sure i can actually do this conversion, lol. Also my automatic tranny is in very good condition, it was rebuilt about 55k miles ago because my friend put it in reverse when driving. I'll put those on the trading post when the time comes.

Civic Accord Honda
09-07-2009, 06:34 PM
Sweet!! DX-i ftmfw

carotman
09-08-2009, 06:26 AM
Will you be using that blue shifter console?

I need one for the hatch!

conozo
09-08-2009, 08:15 AM
Will you be using that blue shifter console?

I need one for the hatch!

Possibly, im not sure yet. It depends if the heater controls fit in the casette holder so i can have room for the touch screen above it. I'll let you know soon.

MessyHonda
09-09-2009, 07:49 AM
thats cool hope this becomes a how to/update on your car

conozo
09-11-2009, 05:53 AM
Yesterday i worked on the car a bit. What i started doing was removing the interior on the parts car. Since it didnt matter if i broke anything i would know how to remove it when it came to my car. I also wanted to make sure that the wiring harness was in good condition, since it appeared that they had to rig up a switch to turn the headlights on, but that wasnt the case. The switch didnt go to anything. The only thing they did was wire a panasonic tape player directly to the wiring harness. Ill be taking the end off mine and putting that on there just incase i would like to use it correctly later. Currently i dont use the radio wiring harness in my car, i have separate power and speakers wires.

http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day2%20%282%29_Vga.JPG
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day2%20%283%29_Vga.JPG
Disregard the oil, but the brown stuff is coolant if you cant tell. This car was in need of some serious maintenance for a long time.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day2%20%284%29_Vga.JPG
It may be hard to tell but you can see clearly into the engine bay, from a 1 foot long gap. This is on both sides of the car too.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day2%20%2810%29_Vga.JPG\
Carpet was absolutely disgusting, moldy on the bottom too.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day2%20%2812%29_Vga.JPG
Dash is out and next ill be taking apart my car then working on the fuel line.

87roach
09-11-2009, 11:42 AM
Good work so far man, this is a serious project so make sure you take your time and account for everything/get it all right!

carotman
09-11-2009, 12:48 PM
It's comming along nice :D

How's the trunk carpet? (I'm leeching parts here lol)

conozo
09-11-2009, 04:00 PM
It's coming along nice :D

How's the trunk carpet? (I'm leeching parts here lol)

Not sure, it would definitely be dirty, but ill check to see if its torn or worn. It might be a week before i know about the part around the shifter too.

Day 3 of work. Took the day off today to work on it. Part removal went smoothly, but found a few surprises. Surprise 1 is rust reaching the inside of the car on the rear wheel wells, my brother-in-law has a welder, so i will fix that after i get it up and running. Surprise 2, shop who rebuilt my engine did not use any new gaskets for anything that connects to the engine. They were all brittle and broken. Surprise 3, i had oil leaking from the distributor O ring, and they used the wrong size, but it was new so at least they tried.

http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day3%281%29_Vga.JPG
Took the interior and dash out, saved the carpet for next time.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day3%282%29_Vga.JPG
Surprise 4, lots of oil in the intake and on valves. Is this from leaking valve stems seals? Should i take the head off the other car if it doesnt have any oil and put it on mine or replace the valve seals, im not sure what that involves. Doing this project is a big step for me, i dont feel quite comfortable tinkering with engines yet. Supposedly this is a rebuilt head with 20k miles on it but i dont think so. Car does use oil, has great compression, i think it has little blue smoke until warms up.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day3%283%29_Vga.JPG
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day3%284%29_Vga.JPG
This is the worst one but the others ones arent much better.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day3%286%29_Vga.JPG
Removed so far was most coolant hoses, distributor, thermostat housing, intake manifold, alternator, part of the wiring.

Cant work on it tomorrow, but sunday i will. Going to put both cars on blocks, remove everything else i need to from my car, start installing the fuel line and tank, cabin wiring harness, and heater.

Civic Accord Honda
09-11-2009, 04:15 PM
Good job man! wish i would of have got my old DX running and ditched my lxi lol

Bass Man
09-11-2009, 08:34 PM
Scary to think people drive 80mph with their strut-towers rotted like that...

Done yet?

Tomisimo
09-12-2009, 04:22 AM
I'd took that head off and send it to the shop for a nice cleanup and replaced Valve steems and new manifold also, get it cleaned... That looked nasty

Rendon LX-i
09-12-2009, 08:58 AM
nice progress my friend.....That head dont look to healthy i would get it touched up before install

conozo
09-12-2009, 01:03 PM
Yes i am definately going to fix it up, but not sure how. Is there a how to on valve stem seal replacement.

AccordB20A
09-12-2009, 01:43 PM
do the a20a3 efi motors have a different compression ratio to the whatever your dx motor has? if it didnt i would just swap the efi onto the carb motor haha

good luck with the swap, seems like your having fun. i know i had fun with mine hah

conozo
09-12-2009, 07:46 PM
do the a20a3 efi motors have a different compression ratio to the whatever your dx motor has? if it didnt i would just swap the efi onto the carb motor haha


The block in my car is a rebuilt A20A3 engine. So i would assume that the heads are the same.

I didnt find a how to on the site to change the valve stem seals, but i did find a nice how to in my haynes manual. So i will be doing that, then working on the rest of the FI swap.
Are the ebay gasket sets any good? I dont plan on using the head gasket from this kit, but would use almost everything else. Here is a link to one ebay gasket set (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-89-2-0L-Honda-Accord-Prelude-Sohc-Head-Gasket-Set_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQha shZitem5631c1d8a5QQitemZ370201974949QQptZMotorsQ5f CarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)

Civic Accord Honda
09-12-2009, 07:50 PM
yeah all the gaskets besides the head gasket should be good from what i here... use a felpro hg

Bass Man
09-12-2009, 08:40 PM
You can go to an import parts store and get some nice gaskets for cheap!

carotman
09-13-2009, 05:37 AM
The head might be rebuilt but if they didn't change the valve guides, the thing can wear fast.

Worn valve guides will put stress on the seals and they will fail quite quickly.

You can slap any head on that engine and it will work with the EFI conversion.

conozo
09-13-2009, 02:13 PM
Day 4

Today i only had a few hours to work on the car. So didn't get a whole lot done. But i did remove the wiring harness from the engine bay, side panels, some more coolant hoses, heater, ac, carpet, and other small misc parts.

http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day4%281%29.JPG
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day4%282%29.JPG

Tomorrow im going to order a gasket kit, hoses, and everything i think i need now. Then it will probably be untill next weekend before i can work on it again.

conozo
09-21-2009, 03:59 AM
Yesterday i did a little work. I completely removed the pedals, lowered the steering column, removed the wiring harness from the car, and removed other misc parts to get to free the tranny. I started to remove some parts to get to the fuel line from the parts car.

Today im hoping my friend has the day free so we can remove the auto tranny. I'm concerned that i wont be able to lift the car high enough to slide the tranny out from under. I guess well just try it and see. I should be getting my gasket kit today so i can work on the valve seals.

Bass Man
09-21-2009, 06:47 AM
Pull the whole engine and tranny out. Lot easier. You can even get away with just pulling 1 cv, then lifting the pair at an angle untill you can get to the passenger side cv, then just pop it out and there's your tranny!

conozo
09-21-2009, 07:37 PM
Today i removed the axles and started to remove the tranny. It was hanging on something and i found it was a thin metal covering plate on the side. It attaches to the tranny case then goes around the engine side of the flywheel. Its attached by two 10mm bolts on the front and back. Why in the world is it attached that way? My tranny has been worked on before by a shop, but they would have had to hold the tranny and engine together then put this thing on in between it and then slap on bottom mounting on top of it.

Anyways i worked on it till 11 tonight but tomorrow i have to get it off and need to borrow a 10mm wrench to get that covering off, i have lost mine.

Bass Man
09-21-2009, 09:02 PM
That's the dust-shield for the clutch. You can remove that first if you want to.

2ndGenGuy
09-21-2009, 09:31 PM
If you don't have a 10mm, you're gonna be in trouble! :tongue:

I would make sure the flywheel cover is back on when you start driving it at least. I mean you don't want a rock getting jammed up in your bellhousing, knocking off your ring gear, or damaging the flywheel or something, do you?

Civic Accord Honda
09-21-2009, 09:45 PM
If you don't have a 10mm, you're gonna be in trouble! :tongue:

I would make sure the flywheel cover is back on when you start driving it at least. I mean you don't want a rock getting jammed up in your bellhousing, knocking off your ring gear, or damaging the flywheel or something, do you?

also if u hit a deep puddle your clutch will slip like mad

LewZur
09-22-2009, 01:29 AM
What a F-ing coincidence that your DX and LXi cars are the same color as mine when I did my swap, except mine were both 5spds. Good Luck man and least you got a garage to work in I had to do it outside:cheers:

8, 10, 12, 14mm are a must!!!

Here's the link for my swap if your interested http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67669

conozo
09-23-2009, 07:45 AM
That's the dust-shield for the clutch. You can remove that first if you want to.

The problem we realized was that you cant see the rear bolt untill you get then tranny separated from the engine a little bit. I could have removed the front one.

So i removed that dust shield, and it separated even more but i cannot for the life of me get it apart.

http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day6%20%280%29.JPG
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day6%20%281%29.JPG
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day6%20%282%29.JPG

Shouldn't this be far enough, i cannot move it any further without hitting the side wall. In the shop manual it says slide off dowel pins and lower. There is at least a 1 inch gap above the dowel pins at times when struggling with it. that. I'm hoping you can tell me something obvious because this is getting ridiculous.

carotman
09-23-2009, 10:27 AM
remove the timing belt engine mount so you can tilt the engine.

Civic Accord Honda
09-23-2009, 10:58 AM
yeah its cought up on the input shaft.. need to tilt it out a bit more... my whole engine was crooked when i did it so it was low enough to slide outlol

conozo
09-23-2009, 12:37 PM
Thanks for the tip. Once i shoehorned the engine i had to pull it off about 7 inches before it disconnected but I got it out and hopefully i didnt bend anything.

http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/day6%20%283%29.JPG

I hear the manual tranny is easier, i hope so.

LewZur
09-23-2009, 02:55 PM
Today i removed the axles and started to remove the tranny. It was hanging on something and i found it was a thin metal covering plate on the side. It attaches to the tranny case then goes around the engine side of the flywheel. Its attached by two 10mm bolts on the front and back. Why in the world is it attached that way? My tranny has been worked on before by a shop, but they would have had to hold the tranny and engine together then put this thing on in between it and then slap on bottom mounting on top of it.

Anyways i worked on it till 11 tonight but tomorrow i have to get it off and need to borrow a 10mm wrench to get that covering off, i have lost mine.

Generally, I've found that if I'm working on both it's so much easier to pull the engine and tranny together. Not much to it, motor mounts, cv axles, and the down pipe. Maybe that's what the shop did that worked on your 3rd gen.

Bass Man
09-23-2009, 04:17 PM
More and more I try to remove things the way they were put into the car at the factory; much more easier than other ways.

2ndGenGuy
09-23-2009, 04:22 PM
The manual tranny weighs like 1/3 of that tragedy of a gearbox. It's MUCH easier to get installed. The input shaft is also much shorter and theres a ton more room to fit it in there.

LewZur
09-23-2009, 04:43 PM
The manual tranny weighs like 1/3 of that tragedy of a gearbox. It's MUCH easier to get installed. The input shaft is also much shorter and theres a ton more room to fit it in there.

I wasn't aware of that but I've never messed with an auto. That's good to know I am thinking of buying an auto 2dr and doing the 5spd swap.

MessyHonda
09-23-2009, 10:24 PM
yeah looks good so far...hope you get a nice clutch and flywheel

conozo
06-07-2011, 08:37 AM
Alright guys, this project is still in the works. I havent touched either car since my last post. Since then i have done a lot of work on remodeling the home, grown my business, had another kid, and now its time to get this thing working again. I cant stand driving the 01 Windstar minivan anymore. Its a gas hog and handles fat walrus on ice. Give me some motivation to get this thing working by the summers end.

By the way i plan on doing a full restoration, not just swapping parts, so its a lot more work than the typical carb to fi conversion.

conozo
03-28-2012, 04:59 PM
I have a confession, I have a nice 3G sitting in my garage that I have neglected. I want to fix it up but I hardly have had the time in the past year, but now I'm getting serious about getting it up and running. I'm going to sell a crappy van after ford completes the recall hopefully in April, then use that money to restore this car.

I told my 3 year old son that we would go out and get ice cream when we fix the Honda and he reminds me everyday about it. He thinks is going to be a 20 min fix.

So I'm serious about getting this project done this summer, i really miss driving it and I'm tired of these gas prices in a 17mpg van.

Honda Man
03-28-2012, 07:41 PM
haha your son sounds like my little nephew. congradulations on the home buisness and new baby! sounds like you have a nice life going for you man. get some work done on that baby though! this would be way beter gas mileage then the van and you would look cooler in it :) theres some motivation for ya!

conozo
06-27-2012, 03:30 AM
It took me about three weeks but i finally got the garage cleaned up last night. I had piles of stuff under the cars, around the cars, ontop of the cars, and some in the cars. There were four 5 gallon buckets i filled up with saw dust with all the wood project and table saw use. I also added more lights toward the garage door, there wasnt any on that side of the garage so it was pretty dark, but now its got 12 light bulbs. Heck it even pretty bright under the cars, lol. So now there is at least 3 feet of clear space all around each car. I'm also hiring my neighbor kid to help me, i have a simple jobs for him such as moving parts over or taking out the tranny so i can rebuild it. I've wanted to do it all myself but i simply will never get it done if i try to do it all by myself so thats why i need the help.
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/0626122239.jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/0626122239a.jpg

A18A
06-27-2012, 05:12 AM
ooo that looks fun. wish i could help

MessyHonda
06-27-2012, 10:16 AM
your car brings back memories of when you got married and you used your 3gee. I wish i can do that too...lol

conozo
06-27-2012, 06:12 PM
your car brings back memories of when you got married and you used your 3gee. I wish i can do that too...lol

Hah yes, sometime I'll create a memories in the honda thread.

It was worked on a little today and I found a few spots of rust that concern me. I initially was going to do rust repair but then after a couple years I just wanted to get it running and fix the rust later. But now after today I may have to fix some rust spots before getting it running such as if ther is a rust spot under the gas tank and hard to reach areas like that. So I was looking at the welders available and am not sure what to get. I only have 120v outlets in the garage but not sure what type is best for a novice and simple projects. I'm reading the other welder threads for info.

LJ1987LX-I
06-28-2012, 01:36 AM
Harbor Freight is running a deal on a simple Flux Cored Mig machine, I think it's like $99 for it. Just make sure you do a lot of practicing on spare metal before you start to weld on your own. And get good at contour grinding.

conozo
07-02-2012, 10:39 AM
My brother-in-law has a small welder, i don't know what kind but we'll make it work for the few spots I need it in.

This morning I was going to take the manual transmission out of the parts car and got stuck on the bottom mount. I took 4 bolts out and it seems to be hanging on the rubber mount. Any tips?
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/07021trannymount%20(Medium).jpg

MessyHonda
07-03-2012, 02:00 AM
take off the crossmember?

conozo
07-05-2012, 07:30 PM
I got the tranny out, the mount stays on the cross member but there is this thin metal cover for the clutch that has to be undone. I had the same problem with the auto, it seems like you have to inch the tranny away then you can get to the bolts from the space between the tranny and engine. ??? Also got the head off today, it looks like my engine was burning oil from leaky valve guides or something. I'm glad to see that it looks rebuilt and there's no signs of overheating since i had all those overheating issues with the radiator hoses hooked up backwards a few years ago.

http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/0705122258c%20%28Small%29.jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/0705122258a%20%28Small%29.jpg

Edit: I got the tranny off and looked at the fifth gear, it looks good but I did find a mangled up snap ring in there. So now I'm waiting on my brother inlaw to help me with the transmission. They just are moving into a new house so I hope he has time to help me soon. In the mean time I got to clean the head gasket off the engine, do I just use a razor blade? And how do you keep the stuff out of th cylinders.

conozo
08-05-2012, 04:19 AM
Got a lot done yesterday, i was able to work all day on it. Got the rebuilt head head on, and moved the intake and some other parts over along with part of the wiring harness. I figured out that if you remove the coolant pipe under the intake you can reach in there with a short 12mm box end wrench to reach all the intake nuts. I tried adjustable sockets with no success.

http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/IMG_4284 (Small).JPG

New Project deadline, end of this month (August)

conozo
08-15-2012, 06:15 PM
I need help finding a few items. We took the tranny apart and its in really good condition. All i need is the 5th gear synchro and spring, the two lock nuts on the ends of the shafts and then all the seals. I can find the kits but they include all synchros and bearings which i dont need.

conozo
08-24-2012, 08:35 AM
Sorry guys I purchased the last 5th gear synchro set from Honda in the USA at least (They call it the 5th gear sleeve set, it includes everything but the two gears) I have not found the two gaskets for the transmission, so i will have to make my own which isn't that big of a deal.

I've spent about two weeks looking for those parts calling just about every place in the USA i could find. A tip for anyone looking for hard to find parts is to call again later and get someone else. I've had a few instances where the first person i called just said "no we dont have anything" then i call later and get someone else and they look into it and find one available that they can order, so be persistent.

conozo
08-27-2012, 07:58 AM
I have a question, I'm making the two gaskets for the tranny so when I install them do I need to also use RTV sealer along with the gasket or is just the gasket good enough?

I got some kind of paper gasket from o'rileys.

Civic Accord Honda
08-28-2012, 05:40 PM
all my honda trans have some kinda white sealant around it so yeah i would use something

conozo
04-05-2013, 07:21 PM
Still working on the car here, i tried to finish it before winter but that didnt happen so im shooting for this summer. I took two days off to work on it, and got the tranny in, engine wiring harness, other misc items, and timing belt. But i am having an issue with the timing belt. I cannot seem to get it tight. I was wondering how the tensioner works. Does it tighten the belt as you screw in the bolt or is the tension related to that little spring. I've read the timing belt post and it seems i just have to try again to get it right, then rotate the engine a couple revolutions to make sure its right.

I almost had a huge setback yesterday, i was bolting on the cover that goes over the flywheel/clutch on the bottom and the small bolt slipped into the speed sensor hole. I was working under the car and didnt see it but immediately knew what happened. It sounded like a plinko game as it bounced down into the transmission. After an hour or so i finally fished it out with a magnet, it was about 6-7 inches in there and all i could see was a few threads of the end of it. I was very relieved when I got it out especially since i just rebuilt it.

Dr_Snooz
04-06-2013, 09:17 PM
You need to tension the belt before tightening the tensioner. Turn the crank counter-clockwise a little bit to draw up the belt tight on the left side (facing the belt), then tighten the tensioner bolt.

Good thing that you got that bolt fished out. It's a best practice to plug holes like that with rags, paper towels or tape. Even if you don't drop bolts into them, dust and other debris will get in there.

conozo
04-15-2013, 10:45 AM
So i took the tensioner off to figure out how it worked. The tension is all based on that spring BEFORE you tighten the bolt. I drew up the slack on the front of the engine and tightened the tensioner bolt but it still seems too loose. Does that spring need replacing, i did a quick look online and couldnt tell if the spring comes with the tensioner or not. My tensioner only has about 20k miles on it btw.

Dr_Snooz
04-15-2013, 04:58 PM
For me, it's a pretty good struggle to get the belt on. If yours went on real easy, then I'd say change the spring.

conozo
04-18-2013, 07:35 AM
Thanks snooz, i got the timing belt tight all around by turning the crank to keep the belt toward the front of the car taught while i tightened the tensioner. It helped me to take the tensioner off and see how it worked, i assumed that the spring would adjust the tension after you tightened the bolt, but thats not the case.

My next question is brakes. My original brakes worked but i had to push them pretty hard to stop. So i am swapping the front brakes since they are larger but I was wondering, if on the parts LXI the pads were worn uneven, meaning one pad was hardly worn and the other was very worn, is this caused by the caliper bracket sticking and not necessarily the caliper itself. I'm also going to get a new brake booster and all the stuff since the other one was weeping and im not sure of the condition of it.

A18A
04-18-2013, 04:23 PM
I would guess that's caused by the sliders that the calipers are held on by are either siezed or not lubricated very well

Dr_Snooz
04-20-2013, 06:50 PM
Ditto on the caliper guide pins. Were they crusty when you pulled them?

conozo
06-30-2013, 12:13 PM
I was guessing it was the caliper guide pins too, I wanted a second opinion. They were mostly dry, so i cleaned everything off and put new grease in there.

Are the main relays (under the dash) interchangeable for carb and fi. I've got two similar boxes and dont know which one is which.

conozo
09-05-2013, 09:02 AM
So i need a tiny coolant hose. Its the one that goes from under the throttle body to the Fast idle control. Its part 14, "Hose B Fast idle control" on majestic honda parts. The auto parts store doesnt have one small enough in diameter. My question is where can i get one and what are the measurements for it, are they in english or metric, its about 7mm ID and 13mm OD.

HLW
09-05-2013, 03:13 PM
So i need a tiny coolant hose. Its the one that goes from under the throttle body to the Fast idle control. Its part 14, "Hose B Fast idle control" on majestic honda parts. The auto parts store doesnt have one small enough in diameter. My question is where can i get one and what are the measurements for it, are they in english or metric, its about 7mm ID and 13mm OD.

When I replaced mine last December shortly after getting the 89 LX-i i found that on mine it was not a u bend hose but a 90 degree bend. I found the replacement at Autozone. I was able to find all but part 24 on that seam page between Autozone and Oriely's. for part 24 I found a multi-bend small hose at Napa that had the right bends and straight sections between them and the next bends to replace that hose. Unfortunately I do not remember the part numbers form the hoses. For the 2 larger hoses that go into the tee I used straight hose since the bends were minimal.

I think the 90 degree bend hoses were all Dayco part number B86800. The ID is slightly larger at .31 inches or 7.8mm.

conozo
09-06-2013, 04:25 AM
Yes it is 90 degrees but i figured that i would cut half of it off. I'll go to the autostore and check out the hose you mentioned. Majestic honda does say they have it but its $18 for a 3 inch hose. Also when i search 7mm online all i get is the silicone hoses, i dont know much about the silicone, like if it last as long or what so im just keeping all my hoses the same instead of having a mix of them.

This is the last hose i need, replacing all the hoses has been an expensive project. I think i've paid $200 in hoses. 6 years ago i replaced all the carb hoses and i think it was $60 for all genuine honda hoses.

conozo
05-10-2014, 06:41 PM
Hey guys, its me again. Ran into a trouble spot before I attempt to start the car. I'm trying to tighten the pulley bolt. I have the car on the ground, e-brake on, blocks behind wheels, tranny in 1st gear, and I cannot tighten it. What happens is that i turn it 100 degrees or so then it feels like it springs back. Its been so long i dont know if i already tightened it to spec when i had the tranny off but either way i feel like the spring feeling is not normal and i should at least be able to check it with my torque wrench.

Dr_Snooz
05-10-2014, 06:57 PM
Are you referring to the crank pulley? If so, you're essentially torque loading the drivetrain when you tighten it. When you let go, it will want to unload again by springing back.

conozo
05-10-2014, 07:25 PM
yes the crank pulley. So am i just being a wuss and need to put more muscle in it?

Dr_Snooz
05-11-2014, 08:53 AM
Well, 134 ft-lbs is a lot so you'll have to work for it. And if it's going to break something, it's probably better to break it in the garage than out on the road.

conozo
06-17-2014, 06:40 PM
I'm trying to start the car and it wont even turn over. I have a new battery. What it does is the PGM and oil light are on, then when i go to crank it the brake light comes on. I am pushing the brakes and the rear brake lights are turning on. so then i tried pulling up the E-Brake and the brake light stays on with the key in like it should.

I dont even know how to start a car with a stick. I have it in "nuetral" the clutch pressed down and the brake pressed down. I'm going to look at the wires in the steering column to make sure everything is plugged in but my real question to you is "do you have to press the brake and clutch to get the car to start?"

conozo
06-17-2014, 08:02 PM
Got the starting figured out, it was the little black and white wire on the starter was disconnected and i had to tap it with a hammer. But now it wont run. I think its a fuel issue. took the lines off the fuel filter in the engine and did not see any fuel. Even tried starting it with the service port open to see if any would appear and its dry. Its been 5 years since it last ran, im hoping its just a fuel pump and not clogged fuel lines.

Is the fuel pump suppose to run when you have the key turned to position II even before you try to crank it?

Hazwan
06-17-2014, 08:14 PM
Yeah the fuel pump is supposed to prime for a bit before you crank it.

conozo
06-18-2014, 03:57 AM
So i checked the voltage at the pump and there is none. Does this lead me to the main relay? My only test i have done is compared the sounds with and without the fuel pump fuse it. With it in i do hear a click sound at first which makes be believe that the main relay is working? Speaking of main relays, i may have gotten the LXI and DX ones mixed up, is there any difference?

conozo
06-19-2014, 03:59 AM
I Finally got the car started and running!!!! :flash: Its been 5 years! I thought it was the main relay but couldn't find my other one in the garage two nights ago and part of last night. So i said a prayer to Saint Anthony who helps you find lost things. Then there it was sitting right on top of the car. I tested both using the instructions from the shop manual and the one i had in there was completely dead (not sure why both internal relays stopped working as it was just sitting there) and the one i just found worked just fine. Plugged it in and the car started right up but only ran it for a second. Went to look for major leaks and there was gas all over the place in the engine. All over the fuel filter and all the injectors. I thought maybe the pressure was too high. It took me a while to figure out where it was coming from, i put rags over certain areas, turned the key to II to let the fuel pump run and spray gas everywhere, and found it was coming from the flared gas line connection to where the new fuel line was added. I had a very hard time getting that bolt off and it wasnt tightened all the way. I couldn't find the torque specs for that bolt but i think i put 60 on it before it stopped leaking. The next problem i ran into was no oil pressure when i started the car for a couple seconds, i figured there was a lot of air in the system. so i very slightly over filled the oil to just above the dipstick dot. That worked and pressure was just were it was supposed to be.

My next step is to put the front fenders back on, bumpers, and exterior lights. Then get it out on the road to test. I have one minor problem with getting it out of the garage, my door which is 16x7ft and solid wood from the 50s doesnt have any springs or opener. To get the car in the garage I had rigged up a pulley system involving pulleys and aircraft cable from harbor freight. I hope i can get it out of the garage without anything falling or breaking. The garage door is estimated to be 1000lbs and the garage door companies in town wouldn't put new springs on it because they didn't have any that strong or that big. Needless to say I will be getting a new garage door after this so that the Honda can park in the garage for safe keeping at night and during bad weather.

Hazwan
06-19-2014, 05:57 AM
Glad to hear that! I remember reading about this project years back omg its been that long!

conozo
06-19-2014, 07:07 AM
Glad to hear that! I remember reading about this project years back omg its been that long!

Well when i started I had one 3 month old and i though it was going to take me a month. But now 5 years later we have 3 kids and my business has been keeping me very busy. So i really only had a few hours a week to work on it but most of the time I just wanted to relax since i had been working all week. I did want to fix up the body since it has some rust issues but i figure i can do that while still driving it.

Dr_Snooz
06-21-2014, 10:06 PM
Congrats on getting her running! I've lifted some old garage doors like you describe. They are astoundingly heavy without springs. Blown disc heavy.

conozo
06-22-2014, 07:15 PM
Got the car out of the garage tonight. I was going to take it for a test drive but my headlight motors were spazzing out so i didnt want to drive it light that. I think i may just need to swap the motor relays.

I do have an interior light electrical problem. The fuse blows either instantly or a few minutes in. So I got to figure that out because there are no dash lights at the moment and i cant drive at night.

Civic Accord Honda
06-24-2014, 11:56 PM
man i remember this thread from like 11000 years ago! glad to see you finally got her running and on the road again! thought she may of ended up in the crusher by now :'( glad shes alive and being resurrected ! :thumbup:

conozo
07-01-2014, 06:37 PM
I actually drove it around the block tonight. It was a pretty rough ride with wires all over the place, dash lights not working, and the smell of burn sawdust that landed on the engine from my woodworking projects. But it drove and that's a big milestone.

Dr_Snooz
07-03-2014, 03:21 PM
Woohoo!!

conozo
07-03-2014, 06:40 PM
Hold the celebrations just a minute. I tried to work on it again tonight, I tried to adjust the timing and i could not see the mark on the flywheel at all. I guess ill have to put it at TDC to make sure there is one at all. So i just turned the distributor until it felt like it ran smoother for now.
After that i had the shifter in neutral and revved the car a little to 2500, then revved it to 3500 and it just died instantly like it slipped into gear. After that i tried to put it in reverse and back up and I could not get it to move, it would stall, same with first gear. Then with the engine off i was trying to shift in all the gears, it seems like im getting them in all the gears except 5th. I believe i have the clutch cable adjusted correctly, I have not replaced the shifter bushings, and I was able to push the car back and forth when it was in neutral and there were no grinding noises at anytime.

Edit: the tranny fluid level is good and with the car off I may be able to get it into 5th, it is harder to get into than the other gears but i think it did feel like it was actually going in if i shifted quickly. The clutch is definitely disengaged because when i slowly release it, it starts to catch like it normally did the other day when i drove it.

Edit 2: I did get it to move in reverse today (didnt try the other gears as im a little afraid) and also had it in nuetral then tried to start the car without the clutch and it jumped forward. So it seems to me that the shifter bushings are bad and not letting me put it all the way in gear. What do you guys think.

conozo
07-16-2014, 11:09 AM
Finally got rid of the parts car. This will give me much more room to work in the garage. Plus a new garage door and opener is on the way!. We have been parking outside since we bought the house 6 years ago so this will be a nice change.
I'm excited to get the garage cleaned up and functioning. No more daddys big mess in the garage and no more stepping over everything to get in.
6401
6402
6403

Got $190 for it by the way, no transmission, and no interior so it didnt weight quite as much as a regular car.

ohitsanazn
08-12-2014, 06:33 AM
Got $190 for it by the way, no transmission, and no interior so it didnt weight quite as much as a regular car.

$190!? They offered me $170 for mine. My dad decided to order some new parts and it runs fine again!

conozo
08-18-2014, 05:38 PM
I still haven't really drove this thing, i was waiting on someone for a few exhaust bracket welds since they were rusted when replacing the shifter bushings.

Here is my problem that i need help with.
The 5 speed tranny is locking up. Today i took it for a drive around the block, I had it in first and was idling around the block with no gas or clutch pushed then the front axles locked up at random. It was like i just slammed on the brakes. Started it up and continued driving around the block. Pulled in the driveway and attempted to reverse to straighten it out. Its frozen, no matter how much gas i give it it will stall when letting go of the clutch. The clutch is new and the tranny was rebuilt by my brother in law. I have a feeling its a tranny issue but i don't know how. I am able to put the shifter into each gear when parked. Last time i got it out of the frozen/stuck mode by putting it into neutral and pushing the car a few inches.

conozo
08-25-2014, 04:51 AM
bump

A few more things. I guess it does kinda grind when driving or even pushing the car when its off and in neutral. I initially thought it was the bad tires and out of alignment tires but its not. Yesterday I tried to back it up and it wouldn't budge, it wouldn't budge in first either but 2nd, 3rd, 4th, & 5th were able to move forward. I'm going to study the tranny manual and see if the locking in first and reverse are my clue.

A18A
08-25-2014, 02:51 PM
sounds like your brother inlaw didnt do a very good job

conozo
08-25-2014, 05:25 PM
maybe true, but he at least had rebuilt a jeep 5 speed and i hadn't.

conozo
04-29-2015, 05:22 AM
Not going to be able to work on the Accord this summer like i hoped. I will be spending all my free time finishing our basement and finishing up our fixer upper house. The basement work includes a bedroom, full bath, living room, kitchen. I'll post a rendering of it later but its for my mother in law to live there (not a bad thing). As for the rest of the house i have to replace a couple windows, put in a new window in a wall, turn our one and only large bathroom into two bathrooms, build a pantry, and in the laundry room put a utility sink and counter to fold clothes. It all involves alot of work with structure, plumbing, electrical, etc. I hope to get it all done so i can be done working on the house. We've been there for around 7 years now.

As for the Accord, dont worry, i have full restoration plans to it. I start it every few weeks and let it run. It needs the transmission sorted out to be able to drive but before i really get it back on the road it needs full body work to remove rust and repaint. If you saw my other post i purchased a 2000 Honda Insight and thats my daily driver as it gets 60-70MPG, its a good car so it will buy me lots of time to get the accord up and running then eventually the plan is to have the Insight as the business car for my employee and i drive the accord as my daily driver/work car. By then the car will be 30 years old but I dont care, everything will be new or only 5 years old on it.

Innsjioa
08-28-2015, 05:57 PM
my interior's not too bad except for the half broke armrest









galaxy note 5 handyhülle (http://www.hulle6.com/category-samsung-galaxy-note-5-zubehoer-256.html)

conozo
09-12-2015, 07:18 PM
Update: Basement project is just about done. I just have some trim left and a couple doors to put in. Everything went extremely well even the copper plumbing and duct work. It was a ton of work, I felt like those shows where they build a house in 24 hours but in this case it was just me. I worked three 20 hour days in a row to get drywall, mud, paint, and linoleum floor down before the carpet came. I'll put some before and after pics soon.

As for the Accord, I still have a question that's been boggling my mind. If you read my previous post you see a transmission issue. To recap. It was rebuild by my brother in law, pretty much the only bad thing was 5th gear synchro and had 230k miles but everything was in spec. I purchased a new clutch kit and installed it. The problem is that it gets stuck and the car wont move. I've been driving in 1st and it just totally locked up and came to a screeching halt. Started it up again and was able to drive around the block just fine. 2nd issue sometimes when moving it around my driveway, I cannot get it to move, no matter how much gas I give it, it wont move and will stall. If I get out and push it an inch even in neutral, I will be able to start it and go into reverse and 1st. It does feel like it can shift into all gears when the car is on/off. Also one time we pushed it when the car was off and it seemed a little difficult with a metal scraping sound. I assumed it was rusty brake disk but i'm not sure.

So do you guys have any input. Since i'm just about done with the basement project, I want to get this running again. Did I screw up the clutch? If it is the tranny, how is it doing it, its like its going into two gears at once.

87roach
09-16-2015, 07:56 PM
Yay about the basement! It'll be great to have that sorted.

As for the trans problem.. well I don't really know much but maybe the job was terribly done. However before assuming something internal make sure to check the simple things, does your clutch cable have free movement? Is it actually moving the arm? Are the pedals damaged at all/restricting movement? It's curious though because it sounds like it's getting into gear but not all the time? It could be a clutch install issue but I don't see that being too realistic.. but I guess it's possible. Sorry I'm not much help but I haven't had anything like this before. :dunno:

conozo
06-25-2016, 01:05 PM
Updates:

http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/honda%206-25-2016%20engine%20removal%20(1).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/honda%206-25-2016%20engine%20removal%20(2).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/honda%206-25-2016%20engine%20removal%20(3).jpg
http://honda.conozo.com/pics_3geez/honda%206-25-2016%20engine%20removal%20(4).jpg

Surprised how easy it was to get the entire engine out, only took about 4 hours and that included getting a longer chain for the lift. Now for taking the transmission off and apart to see whats wrong. I hope i actually find something obvious.

Tdurr
06-25-2016, 11:07 PM
Trans problem sounds odd. Maybe clutch related. Hope you get it going soon man. I know how it is looking at ur baby and not knowing whats wrong.

conozo
07-10-2016, 06:49 PM
Got the transmission apart today. Found some long metal shavings on the magnet which matches with the grinding sound i was hearing. Turning the shafts also makes it grind. After looking at it I think what is happening is that the countershaft has 1/4" play up/down and therefore the gear selectors are in the "wrong spot" and instead of locking say the 2nd gear and 2nd synchro together, its locking the 2nd gear with the 4th gear synchro for example i think.

I still need to take it apart more to get a better look and to see why the countershaft has so much play. Nothing i saw looked like it was chewed up so far. The scraping is the bottom gear on the countershaft rubbing against the Bearing plate retainer. Shop manual 14-5, part number 45 if anyone wants to take a look.

Tdurr
07-12-2016, 05:22 PM
hmmmm

conozo
07-12-2016, 06:27 PM
False alarm on the shaft play, I forgot that when you put the nut on the end of the shaft it pulls it up therefore it's not scraping against the bearing plate. I took the counter shaft apart and did a visual inspection, all looked good. With the main shaft, I got stuck on getting the needle bearing off in order to look at the other gears and synchros. So nothing so far, still hoping for something obvious.

Now that I've taken it apart, it's really a simple transmission and I'm not sure where there is room for error when assembling.

conozo
07-16-2016, 06:15 PM
More investigating. The mainshaft is the problem. The needle bearings are messed up, just spinning the gears makes a bad noise. First i had a hard time getting a needle bearing off to even slide the gears off. Once i did, i found that where the parts mate, it was scored and with sharp metal bits embedded. Almost seems like it was rubbing so much that it melted a thin layer of metal then it cooled in little blob/fragments. I say this because there are metal fragments that are clearly stuck onto the gears. So why did it do this, was the nut on the end of the shaft tightened too much? Was is that when reassembling some of the interchangeable parts were switched around from gear to gear causing uneven wear patterns to mate? I still cannot figure out how it would just seize, the grinding noise is obvious now but not seizing.

So i guess so far i am on my quest for another transmission. Odds are not good, I've been looking at all the junkyards in a 4 hour drive of me for over the past year and haven't seen a single 3gee. I have seen a couple of automatics on craigslist but no manuals.

Hazwan
07-16-2016, 10:09 PM
I'm glad that this project is still going on. Good luck with the trans!

Dr_Snooz
07-23-2016, 07:49 PM
Rebuilding these trannies is problematic. The manual gives a bunch of specs for tolerances that you should check when you are examining your hard parts after tear down. You are supposed to check certain surfaces for scoring, others for diameter, still others for end play, etc. If the parts are out of spec, you should replace them. If you're a careful rebuilder, you'll measure all those tolerances to make sure that the hard parts you are putting back are still good. The problem is that they are never good. I've opened up a fair number of Honda transmissions and in every single case, the hard parts are out of spec. And I'm not talking about one or two items out of spec in an otherwise perfectly good trans. I mean, every single measurement, for every single part, is out of spec. Wherever Honda says to look for a potential problem, you'll find that problem. In other words, by the time you go to rebuild a Honda trans, it is well and truly worn out, according to Honda's specs. Because of Honda's miserable support for enthusiasts and collectors, replacement hard parts are simply not available. I spent a Saturday afternoon rummaging through some local shop's scrap pile years ago, looking for acceptable mainshafts, countershafts, needle bearings, valves (it was an auto that I was rebuilding), etc. I think I left with two parts when I needed ALL of them. They were by no means good parts either. They were crap. Better crap than I had, maybe, but crap just the same. The unappetizing choice that confronts you when you get into a trans rebuild is to throw out your crap trans and try to find slightly better crap, or to put all those worn out parts back into the trans you have and hope.

I would guess that your mainshaft was marginal to begin with. It might have been an oiling problem, or damage from a drag race, or overheating from a trunk full of luggage on a steep mountain grade, or God knows what. A new or better mainshaft didn't exist, so the put-it-all-back-in-and-hope option was exercised. Realistically, it's not like there was another option.

The sad reality is that these are disposable transmissions. When I rebuilt my 3g trans, I think I went through 5 different trannies looking for something decent. One was obviously burned up when I opened it. One had broken gears. One had a cracked case. One looked okay, but grenaded itself within 300 miles of the rebuild. I think the shafts were bent. Etc. Etc. Etc. Etc....... I swapped most of these trannies out on warranty before the wrecking yard informed me that there were no more trannies available......in the continental US. I finally bought a decent rebuilt unit from mantrans.com and I'd recommend them. Somehow they are able to cobble together working transmissions from the surfeit of scrap metal that is used Honda transmissions. I don't know how, but they do it.

Good luck.

conozo
02-12-2017, 05:37 PM
Time for another 6 month check-in.

I've got replacement parts for all the gears, bearings, sleves, etc that were all messed up. Im now putting it back together. I'm at the synchronizer hub between 3rd and 4th gear. The manual doesn't state which way this gear points. The middle part is offset by 0.1mm. I am inclined to have it opposite of how the old one was since the old one was chewed up but i would like some real proof that its suppose to be this way or any way at all.

Notice how the gear has a dot and line near the teath, this is only one one side of the hub.

8028
8029

conozo
02-25-2017, 05:58 AM
We'll i just put the tranny back together and said a little prayer.

My next question is that i just broke the bolt flange on the VSS when putting it back on the transmission. I guess it wasnt seated right when i put it on. I think i can get it welded back on but now im questioning if i have the right one. I think i just left the VSS from the automatic transmission on the car when i did the swap, do i need to find a manual transmission one. My hope is that the gear on the end is the same size but worst case is that my speedometer is off and i can switch it later.

rushell
02-25-2017, 05:28 PM
i have a couple of spares for the manual transmission i will give u one all u have to do is pay for shipping

conozo
03-05-2017, 01:17 PM
I got it all back together and took it for a little spin around the block. Had a huge gas leak at first, I think that my pressure regulator isn't working correctly but works enough test drive the car. It was spewing gas out of every ejector. I blew air through the return fuel line and its good, took the regulator apart and blew air through it, it flowed through but i have no idea if its working at the correct pressure. So I'm in the market for one of those to be safe.

Drove in gears 1,2,3 and reverse just fine, Didn't get going fast enough for 4 or 5th gear. So far so good. :)

rushell, im going to take you up on that offer, i think i would like one as a spare and also to make sure i have the correct one.

Still lots to do and things to get in order. First I'm blowing a fuse everytime i turn the dimmer up for the dash lights, 2nd theirs a rubber grommet on the firewall that im having a heck of a time getting on and its causing water to leak in the cabin if I leave it out in the rain. Then a bunch of tidying up the wires etc in the engine bay and under the dash. Timing, alignment, tires, double check all the bolts, interior carpets and seats.

conozo
06-25-2017, 03:10 AM
Big day yesterday. Got the interior back in and made mutiple trips around town. Still needs an alignment and tires but it does drive. Transmission works fine. I took the kids to get ice cream since I promised it to them 8 years ago.

I cant believe it's been that long and that it works. I surprised everyone who knew about the project by just showing up at their house, they all though it would never be finished.

Props to anyone else who has done this. My only tip, don't gut two cars then wait 6 years to put it back together, do it in one month at least. I had just got busy with life that's why i took so long.

tof
06-25-2017, 06:46 AM
Congrats! Way to stick with it.

Glad the kids finally got their ice cream.

Dr_Snooz
06-26-2017, 08:52 PM
Congratulations! Very cool stuff.

conozo
07-28-2017, 01:48 PM
Got some new tires and an alignment. It drives real smooth and quiet. The only issue I have is an intermittent pgmfi code of 1. My oxygen sensors are new. I did put an adjustable fuel pressure regulator in because some old gas clogged things up. It seems to be getting better the more I drive it with fuel injector cleaner in there. So I'm just going to drive it and see how it goes.

This weekend I'm going to check all the bolts and soon I will take it on a 100mile road trip.

Shane86
07-28-2017, 01:59 PM
Got some new tires and an alignment. It drives real smooth and quiet. The only issue I have is an intermittent pgmfi code of 1. My oxygen sensors are new. I did put an adjustable fuel pressure regulator in because some old gas clogged things up. It seems to be getting better the more I drive it with fuel injector cleaner in there. So I'm just going to drive it and see how it goes.

This weekend I'm going to check all the bolts and soon I will take it on a 100mile road trip.

Road trip :rockon: what kind of fuel filter are using

conozo
07-28-2017, 02:08 PM
I did change it after I ran it for a bit. Its just an AutoZone one, GP Sorsen or something.

rushell
07-28-2017, 04:22 PM
glad to see u got it running great

Shane86
07-29-2017, 04:07 PM
I did change it after I ran it for a bit. Its just an AutoZone one, GP Sorsen or something.

What psi is your afpr set at and are you useing a 5speed ecu

conozo
07-29-2017, 06:50 PM
Yes I'm using a 5 speed ecu and it's set to 38 psi and seems consistent. It's under the hood so I cant see it when I get the pgmfi light. Also when I do get the light it does feel like the car has a slight stumble like a missfire for a few seconds or something that feels similar. It doesn't last long.

Shane86
07-29-2017, 07:45 PM
Yes I'm using a 5 speed ecu and it's set to 38 psi and seems consistent. It's under the hood so I cant see it when I get the pgmfi light. Also when I do get the light it does feel like the car has a slight stumble like a missfire for a few seconds or something that feels similar. It doesn't last long.

That is the kind of feel that I felt when I had a broken oxygen sensor after 20 miles it would jerk like it was out of gas. Have you thought about running a wire from pin c16 directly to the one wire oxygen sensor

conozo
07-29-2017, 08:16 PM
I have thought about running a new wire after I double check a few other things and run more gas through it.

I am confused by the shop manual diagnostics for the O2 sensor. It makes it seem like there is only one sensor and I assume I am measuring the voltage from the O2 sensor wire and NOT the engine harness wire.

Could a missfire, weak spark, or bad timing cause the pgmfi light code 1?

Shane86
07-29-2017, 08:27 PM
I have thought about running a new wire after I double check a few other things and run more gas through it.

I am confused by the shop manual diagnostics for the O2 sensor. It makes it seem like there is only one sensor and I assume I am measuring the voltage from the O2 sensor wire and NOT the engine harness wire.

Could a missfire, weak spark, or bad timing cause the pgmfi light code 1?

I have a 86 I only have one oxygen sensor I know the later models have 2. Pin B11 is a secondary oxygen sensor on later models

conozo
01-16-2019, 07:23 AM
Just want to close this thread.

The car is running. Got many drivability items sorted out. There are still many things due to the cars age and miles but not necessarily because of the FI conversion.
The PGMFI light was caused by the exhaust header falling off the header. A few bolts one the head stripped so i had to drill out a few then put a helicoil in there. Since then its been fine. I have put about 2500 miles on it since the conversion.

Next project is to make it my daily driver and make it perfect one part at a time.

Dr_Snooz
01-16-2019, 06:48 PM
Congrats. You're in a very exclusive club now.

InAccordance
01-16-2019, 08:18 PM
Which helicoil did you use? I have a stud that's threaded out and is leaking a bit..

conozo
01-17-2019, 07:12 PM
I'll go look for the box in the garage tomorrow and update this post.

I did also buy a 12" flexible drill attachment so i could drill the hole out without taking the engine or anything else out. I drilled very slow so the hole was not too big.

Edit
I used Helicoil pack 5546-8
M8x1.25
Drill Size 21/64
R1084-8

InAccordance
01-18-2019, 07:37 PM
Baller, I'll try that out. Thanks for checking!