gp02a0083
09-07-2009, 11:33 PM
i know many members have their own ways of doing things with this , but i figured it still wouldn't hurt to get a "dummy" guide for those who want the extra help
Tools:
Orbital (left) or rotary buffer/polisher (right)
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0246.jpg
Orbital polishers are nice for the everyday joe or beginner, they typically operate at slower speeds and are more forgiving, but they may not be up to the task for really tough scratches and swirls. Rotary buffers are mainly used in a professional body shop and "cut" the paint better, however inexperienced users can damage the clear coat , emblems , moldings , ect a lot easier than with a orbital. im using a Makita Polisher Model 9227cx3 with a wool compounding pad, and a softer wool glaze coat pad. Foam pads can also be used but i prefer wool, remember to have two pads one for compound and one for glaze coat.
Supplies:
Wet/Dry sandpaper
Sanding block
Water
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0252.jpg?t=1252389271
a job pack from Home Depot/ Pep boys / Autozone will work well, 1000-2000 grit is good. Using a good sanding block with the sandpaper is a good idea also to get orange peel out of the paint. Always remember to use water, makes life easier and helps extend the life of the sandpaper. I'm using a 3m sanding block that can be found at Wal-mart,Pep-boys ect. with 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper. For water I'm using a old spray bottle filled with water, a cap full of car soap can be used to help wet sanding.
Other Supplies:
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0245.jpg
Rubbing compound (for medium to heavy scratches)
Glaze coat ( for lighter scratches)
Clay Bar (not shown, optional, best used on older cars/paint)
Wax/ Cleaner wax ( to protect the finish)
Micro-fiber Rags/towels
Painters Tape / Masking tape
News Paper
Compound/glaze coat/ wax doesn't need to be from the same brand/system, with some brands it does help like Ardex.
Let's Get Started:
Step 1: wash your car really well to remove loose dirt and debris and dry it. you can use the clay bar on the car to remove any gritty material from older paint surfaces. You can also remove items from the car like the windshield washer nozzles to make your life easier when using the buffer.
Step 2: Wet sand the area being polished starting out with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper with water then stepping up to 1500 then 2000 grit. Sand in a circular motion while keeping the area wet, if you hear a gritty sound, STOP WET SANDING!!, clean the area again and repeat. If you don't keep the area clean you will cause heavier scratches that will damage the clear coat further. Wipe down the area and check your work, it shouldn't look glossy and should look like the next few pictures. Generally when wet sanding, stay away from body lines and panel edges unless your skilled enough. Tape nearby panels or body lines to help with this.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0255.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0235.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0253.jpg
Step 3: Clean the panel again to remove sanding debris, re-tape any panels again if needed. Mask with the tape and newspaper any plastic parts where compound might end up, most compound i have used ends up staining plastic parts. The front cowl, moldings and bumper moldings are a good example on our cars. Working in small areas, use small amounts of compound with the buffer, start out with at a slower buffer speed so you don't sling compound everywhere. Work the compound around into the paint in the area until the flat finish is glossy again, don't stay in one spot keep moving around and stopping every now and then to add more compound so that you don't burn off the clear coat.
The finish should look like this:
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0243.jpg
Step 4: Wipe the area lightly with a micro-fiber towel/rag to get rid of any compound "dirt/dust" and make sure it is clean again before you Glaze coat it. Follow step 3 with another buff pad for the glaze coat.
Step 5: Remove tape, newspaper and masking material. Rinse the car off to remove any remaining compound and glaze coat dust. Dry the car then apply wax.
Finished product:
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0257.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0258.jpg
TIPS:
Buff the car in the shade or garage, not in the sun, make it easier for yourself
Keep the panels as clean as you can, cleaner they are, the better the job
Sling the power chord for the buffer over your shoulder so it doesn't scratch the paint or get caught up in the buffer (it can happen I've seen it)
Stay away from body edges, its easier to burn the paint off of them
Keep cleaning the buff pad with a spur or flat head screwdriver
When washing the car the the final time, make sure you get the inside door/hood/trunk/hatch jambs , dry compound is a PITA to remove
Lets see some clean accords! :rockon:
Tools:
Orbital (left) or rotary buffer/polisher (right)
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0246.jpg
Orbital polishers are nice for the everyday joe or beginner, they typically operate at slower speeds and are more forgiving, but they may not be up to the task for really tough scratches and swirls. Rotary buffers are mainly used in a professional body shop and "cut" the paint better, however inexperienced users can damage the clear coat , emblems , moldings , ect a lot easier than with a orbital. im using a Makita Polisher Model 9227cx3 with a wool compounding pad, and a softer wool glaze coat pad. Foam pads can also be used but i prefer wool, remember to have two pads one for compound and one for glaze coat.
Supplies:
Wet/Dry sandpaper
Sanding block
Water
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0252.jpg?t=1252389271
a job pack from Home Depot/ Pep boys / Autozone will work well, 1000-2000 grit is good. Using a good sanding block with the sandpaper is a good idea also to get orange peel out of the paint. Always remember to use water, makes life easier and helps extend the life of the sandpaper. I'm using a 3m sanding block that can be found at Wal-mart,Pep-boys ect. with 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper. For water I'm using a old spray bottle filled with water, a cap full of car soap can be used to help wet sanding.
Other Supplies:
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0245.jpg
Rubbing compound (for medium to heavy scratches)
Glaze coat ( for lighter scratches)
Clay Bar (not shown, optional, best used on older cars/paint)
Wax/ Cleaner wax ( to protect the finish)
Micro-fiber Rags/towels
Painters Tape / Masking tape
News Paper
Compound/glaze coat/ wax doesn't need to be from the same brand/system, with some brands it does help like Ardex.
Let's Get Started:
Step 1: wash your car really well to remove loose dirt and debris and dry it. you can use the clay bar on the car to remove any gritty material from older paint surfaces. You can also remove items from the car like the windshield washer nozzles to make your life easier when using the buffer.
Step 2: Wet sand the area being polished starting out with 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper with water then stepping up to 1500 then 2000 grit. Sand in a circular motion while keeping the area wet, if you hear a gritty sound, STOP WET SANDING!!, clean the area again and repeat. If you don't keep the area clean you will cause heavier scratches that will damage the clear coat further. Wipe down the area and check your work, it shouldn't look glossy and should look like the next few pictures. Generally when wet sanding, stay away from body lines and panel edges unless your skilled enough. Tape nearby panels or body lines to help with this.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0255.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0235.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0253.jpg
Step 3: Clean the panel again to remove sanding debris, re-tape any panels again if needed. Mask with the tape and newspaper any plastic parts where compound might end up, most compound i have used ends up staining plastic parts. The front cowl, moldings and bumper moldings are a good example on our cars. Working in small areas, use small amounts of compound with the buffer, start out with at a slower buffer speed so you don't sling compound everywhere. Work the compound around into the paint in the area until the flat finish is glossy again, don't stay in one spot keep moving around and stopping every now and then to add more compound so that you don't burn off the clear coat.
The finish should look like this:
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0243.jpg
Step 4: Wipe the area lightly with a micro-fiber towel/rag to get rid of any compound "dirt/dust" and make sure it is clean again before you Glaze coat it. Follow step 3 with another buff pad for the glaze coat.
Step 5: Remove tape, newspaper and masking material. Rinse the car off to remove any remaining compound and glaze coat dust. Dry the car then apply wax.
Finished product:
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0257.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/af208/lawren71/DSCN0258.jpg
TIPS:
Buff the car in the shade or garage, not in the sun, make it easier for yourself
Keep the panels as clean as you can, cleaner they are, the better the job
Sling the power chord for the buffer over your shoulder so it doesn't scratch the paint or get caught up in the buffer (it can happen I've seen it)
Stay away from body edges, its easier to burn the paint off of them
Keep cleaning the buff pad with a spur or flat head screwdriver
When washing the car the the final time, make sure you get the inside door/hood/trunk/hatch jambs , dry compound is a PITA to remove
Lets see some clean accords! :rockon: