magnum rotors

[Accordian88]

I bought a set of Magnum cross drilled rotors for the front of my 88 Lx. installing them was easy and they worked fine for 40 miles or so ,but now i feel a bit of pulsating !
what did i do wrong ?
what is the break-in procedure ?
i looked on thier website but no help there,plus no instructions with rotors.
new pads also !

:dunno:

[LX-incredible]

Magnum is chinese crap. They sell it out of canada because most of their products wont pass US DOT standards. There is also the lawsuit avoidance thing...

[nswst8]

The rotor is probably warped, lack of ability to tolerate heat. Replace it, or live wit it. It happened to me with a set of Discount Advance Auto rotors except mine were under warranty and swapped them out.

[Civic Accord Honda]

The rotor is probably warped, lack of ability to tolerate heat. Replace it, or live wit it. It happened to me with a set of Discount Advance Auto rotors except mine were under warranty and swapped them out.

yep happend to me with brand new autozone ones.. i lived with it for 20k miles then sold the car :lol:

[Accordian88]

well i guess i will give them a few more miles and see what happens. i still have the old rotors,i can always put em back on.:beer:

[Civic Accord Honda]

if u decide to get new ones i recommend brembo blanks . there only around $30 a piece as well and they are good enough to be used on alot of race cars and etc

[nswst8]

Yeah, you really have to be careful about what parts you are going to buy and where from. China is importing alot and as said earlier ebay is their back door into the USA.

[2ndGenGuy]

I just put some NAPA premium blanks on one of my cars. Fantastic rotors for cheap! Around $35/each!

[Civic Accord Honda]

napa > autozone/advanced.shucks/kragen/checker/orileys/what ever other ones there are lol

[nswst8]

I'm still running the Advance auto rotors bought in 2005 no problems.

[stat1K]

brembo or nothing is my policy with rotors, pbr for pads... never had a single problem, have cross drilled and slotted fronts with pbr semi metallics, and blanks with pbr's on the rear. paid a wopping 150 for all four rotors and pads.

[nswst8]

I'd go that way except that I get hounded by the animal activist for forcing the squirrel under the hood to work harder than he is now to need that much stopping power.

[2ndGenGuy]

PBR? Honestly, the only PBR I know of is the beer... :beer:

[stat1K]

hahahahaha... yeah pbr, check it out... they're an australian company and make awesome stuff, well, at least pads, not sure on their masters or boosters, it's hard to mess up a booster but you never know...

http://www.pbr.com.au/

[2drSE-i]

PBR? Honestly, the only PBR I know of is the beer... :beer:


hahahahaha... yeah pbr, check it out... they're an australian company and make awesome stuff, well, at least pads, not sure on their masters or boosters, it's hard to mess up a booster but you never know...

http://www.pbr.com.au/

clearly, none of yall are from the south. Professional Bull Riding SON!

[stat1K]

oklahoma ain't the south... and i do think of pro bull riding when i see it but that's more of a texan, arizonan thing in me... i have a friend that rides bulls in arizona he's got all kinds of buckles.

[Civic Accord Honda]

clearly, none of yall are from the south. Professional Bull Riding SON!
:lol: thats what i think when i hear PBR as well

[2drSE-i]

oklahoma ain't the south... and i do think of pro bull riding when i see it but that's more of a texan, arizonan thing in me... i have a friend that rides bulls in arizona he's got all kinds of buckles.

To me, North Carolina is more centrally located than Oklahoma, but OK is more midwest than anything. NC is in the original south.

[stat1K]

well i'm not from NC, but i'd say the south to me is like alabama, georgia, sc, etc...

Raleigh doesn't really seem like the south but where i work here in Albemarle, and where i live in Wingate/Monroe, it's definitely the south.

[Hauntd ca3]

hahahahaha... yeah pbr, check it out... they're an australian company and make awesome stuff, well, at least pads, not sure on their masters or boosters, it's hard to mess up a booster but you never know...

http://www.pbr.com.au/

yeah, most of that PBR stuff isnt to bad eh.
used to use alot of there mc's and caliper rebuild kits in the garage i used to work at.
bendix make a real good semi metalic pad as well, i think they are called metal king. until these fancy new pads came out, they were the standard performance pad

[stat1K]

yeah i've seen bendix stuff it's decent. i just am stuck on these pbr's only problem is the damn metallic dust in the rear lol...

[2ndGenGuy]

Professional Bull Riding? zZzZzzZZzzZZzZ....

I'm pretty hooked on my Carbotech AX6 pads. So... much... bite!! But they better for $125/axle. Take a sec to warm up though. Gonna get a set for my Accord when she's back on the road.

[Accordian88]

i have duralast gold ceramic pads from autozone,they are fine,the rotors just suck ! how the hell can they be warped already ? i guess i'll get em turned...http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/6471/downsized0913091821b1.th.jpg (http://img443.imageshack.us/i/downsized0913091821b1.jpg/)

[2ndGenGuy]

Maybe the drilling process warped them. I imagine that drilling through them improperly can generate quite a bit of heat... Starting with cheap, thin blanks, then drilling holes in them probably doesn't do them any good.

My drilled Brembo OEM rotors on my Accord would boil the fluid just as fast as my old rotors. So I don't really think that holes drilled into any OEM rotors does jack shit to help heat. I think it's more bling than anything (though they do look pretty sweet!).

[MessyHonda]

Maybe the drilling process warped them. I imagine that drilling through them improperly can generate quite a bit of heat... Starting with cheap, thin blanks, then drilling holes in them probably doesn't do them any good.

My drilled Brembo OEM rotors on my Accord would boil the fluid just as fast as my old rotors. So I don't really think that holes drilled into any OEM rotors does jack shit to help heat. I think it's more bling than anything (though they do look pretty sweet!).

when i changed out my rotors i went with napa 5.1 dot fluid...its about 18 bucks a liter but its worth it....i never had fade...only thing is that i started to warp them....i cut them up once and now i just ditched the 10 inch rotor and im going with a 11 inch

[markmdz89hatch]

i have duralast gold ceramic pads from autozone,they are fine,the rotors just suck ! how the hell can they be warped already ? i guess i'll get em turned...http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/6471/downsized0913091821b1.th.jpg (http://img443.imageshack.us/i/downsized0913091821b1.jpg/)

What was wrong with the old ones? ...or did you just buy the new ones for the cool factor of the c/d look?

The reason I ask is because if the old rotors were good (ie. no pulsating pedal upon braking), then they are still true. You can just slap them back on, and with the new pads you'll be back in business and without the shake or any further expenses.

If the new rotors are warped already, there's a slight chance they were slightly off when you got them, in which case it might be worth the try to get them turned. The only thing you have to keep in mind is that every time you get a rotor turned, you're making the material thinner which means it will heat up faster and be more prone to warpage down the road.

As for the argument of cross drilled, slotted, both, or blanks, I've had lengthy conversations with Brembo, Baer, and some very willing and knowledgeable guys over at Willwood, and they were pretty much in complete agreement with these facts:

Cross drilled: This practice was used in racing applications to reduce weight of the rotating masses. It was also done promote better heat dissipation on the old steel rotors with the older (less high-tech) compounds that pads use to be made of. Finally, it was also believed to allow off-gassing of the pads to escape from the contact surface faster instead of acting as a lubrication between the rotor and pad surfaces which would make the braking less effective.

There are disadvantages to consider as well. Cross-drilled rotors are significantly weaker than a 'blank' or solid rotor of the identical material. This has proven itself time and again to cause a pre-mature cracking of the rotor which deems it useless.

Sounds like all positives with not too many negatives right? Well, yes, but things have come a long way since then.

Slotting: These slots cut into rotors will allow the off-gasses to escape, and the slotting can (somehow, but I don't completely understand it) pull the the pad back to the surface of the rotor and promote its 'bite' under heavy braking. Because the rotor surface is only gouged and not drilled through, they are structurally much stronger than the cross-drilled rotors. But because the surface is slightly compromised, they will cause the rotor to wear or warp faster, and because they're making your braking more effective, they will wear the pads a bit faster than a blank as well.

Dimpled: This gives the 'cool' look of cross-drilling without the negative side effects of cracking. However, the dimpling has proven not to do much of anything with regards to anything performance oriented. They just look pretty cool. But again, you're compromising the surface of the rotor, so it too will warp and/or wear faster than a blank.

Blank: While this is far more boring, and less aestetically pleasing than a cross-drilled, or slotted rotor, it does withstand more daily driving punishment than really any other rotor treatment. These will be the least likely to warp. While they will probably not dissipate off-gassing of rotor-to-pad quite as well as the slotted, they will do a damn good job of stopping you on command.

At this point, the materials used in rotor and pads are far superior to what they were when the cross-drilling was the thing to do. The newer rotors are stronger, lighter, and the pads are much less prone to heat exhaustion and can deliver great bite even under abuse. (Now that's providing you pay up for good pads as compared to the economy crap pads/rotors available for dirt cheap.) With nearly all cars (and certainly an even greater percentage of race-applications) the rotors are now 'vented' which means two rotor surfaces with a cavity (vents) between the two surfaces. This hugely helps with heat dissipation and cooling, and in turn greatly extends their life.

So at the end of the day, many cross-drilled rotors may look good, but it's really an older technology that doesn't really have a practical application in race purposes. The slotted would be the way I'd go if I'm racing the car, bearing in mind that my rotors/pads will not last as long, but might be a teensie-tiny bit more effective than blanks.

All that said, I currently have Brembo factory cross-drilled rotors both front and back, and Axxis Metal Master Ceramic pads front and back. I did drive it very hard when I was driving it regularly, and never cracked or warped a rotor. And as for the pads, I'm pretty much sold on using these for the foreseeable future. They actually bite more as they warm up. :dunno:

Anyway, sorry for the rambling, but hope it helps. If not, please disregard.

[stat1K]

Mark i wasn't aware that brembo cross-drilled their own rotors, maybe they just don't for my application, any brembo rotor i've ever purchased that has been cross drilled or slotted has been done so by the company selling the rotor and they say that it's not warrantied by brembo any longer...

your write up there is very informative and i will probably just go with brembo blanks on my front from now on, though my cross drilled and slotted ones are holding up nicely after about 20k and i drive them hard, hell they've even been through an accident on my rex...

[markmdz89hatch]

up until I think about '02 or '03 Brembo did offer a factory cross-drilled rotor. Not anymore though.

I'm with you on the cross-drilled rotors holding up well though. Mine have at least that 20k on them, and so far, no signs of cracking. ...but I'm pretty confident that if I were to track the car I'd crack them eventually.

[stat1K]

I drive my car like it's on the track to work some days on these country roads... no one is ever on them and i take the turns that have the little sign that says 25mph at about 70mph, helps with new tires, springs, skunk2 struts, front and rear strut bars and the 16mm rear sway bar... i don't even really get on the brakes lol... maybe that's why :)

[2ndGenGuy]

I dunno Mark, where did you get those rotors? I have a strong belief that the Brembo OEM replacements are ALL drilled by 3rd parties. The big brake kits, and supercar brakes are a different story, same with any 2-piece or floating rotor. But I think for regular passenger cars they didn't do it.

[LX-incredible]

Brembo has cadmium coated drilled OR slotted rotors for us. There's several sites that sell them.

[2drSE-i]

What was wrong with the old ones? ...or did you just buy the new ones for the cool factor of the c/d look?

The reason I ask is because if the old rotors were good (ie. no pulsating pedal upon braking), then they are still true. You can just slap them back on, and with the new pads you'll be back in business and without the shake or any further expenses.

If the new rotors are warped already, there's a slight chance they were slightly off when you got them, in which case it might be worth the try to get them turned. The only thing you have to keep in mind is that every time you get a rotor turned, you're making the material thinner which means it will heat up faster and be more prone to warpage down the road.

As for the argument of cross drilled, slotted, both, or blanks, I've had lengthy conversations with Brembo, Baer, and some very willing and knowledgeable guys over at Willwood, and they were pretty much in complete agreement with these facts:

Cross drilled: This practice was used in racing applications to reduce weight of the rotating masses. It was also done promote better heat dissipation on the old steel rotors with the older (less high-tech) compounds that pads use to be made of. Finally, it was also believed to allow off-gassing of the pads to escape from the contact surface faster instead of acting as a lubrication between the rotor and pad surfaces which would make the braking less effective.

There are disadvantages to consider as well. Cross-drilled rotors are significantly weaker than a 'blank' or solid rotor of the identical material. This has proven itself time and again to cause a pre-mature cracking of the rotor which deems it useless.

Sounds like all positives with not too many negatives right? Well, yes, but things have come a long way since then.

Slotting: These slots cut into rotors will allow the off-gasses to escape, and the slotting can (somehow, but I don't completely understand it) pull the the pad back to the surface of the rotor and promote its 'bite' under heavy braking. Because the rotor surface is only gouged and not drilled through, they are structurally much stronger than the cross-drilled rotors. But because the surface is slightly compromised, they will cause the rotor to wear or warp faster, and because they're making your braking more effective, they will wear the pads a bit faster than a blank as well.

Dimpled: This gives the 'cool' look of cross-drilling without the negative side effects of cracking. However, the dimpling has proven not to do much of anything with regards to anything performance oriented. They just look pretty cool. But again, you're compromising the surface of the rotor, so it too will warp and/or wear faster than a blank.

Blank: While this is far more boring, and less aestetically pleasing than a cross-drilled, or slotted rotor, it does withstand more daily driving punishment than really any other rotor treatment. These will be the least likely to warp. While they will probably not dissipate off-gassing of rotor-to-pad quite as well as the slotted, they will do a damn good job of stopping you on command.

At this point, the materials used in rotor and pads are far superior to what they were when the cross-drilling was the thing to do. The newer rotors are stronger, lighter, and the pads are much less prone to heat exhaustion and can deliver great bite even under abuse. (Now that's providing you pay up for good pads as compared to the economy crap pads/rotors available for dirt cheap.) With nearly all cars (and certainly an even greater percentage of race-applications) the rotors are now 'vented' which means two rotor surfaces with a cavity (vents) between the two surfaces. This hugely helps with heat dissipation and cooling, and in turn greatly extends their life.

So at the end of the day, many cross-drilled rotors may look good, but it's really an older technology that doesn't really have a practical application in race purposes. The slotted would be the way I'd go if I'm racing the car, bearing in mind that my rotors/pads will not last as long, but might be a teensie-tiny bit more effective than blanks.

All that said, I currently have Brembo factory cross-drilled rotors both front and back, and Axxis Metal Master Ceramic pads front and back. I did drive it very hard when I was driving it regularly, and never cracked or warped a rotor. And as for the pads, I'm pretty much sold on using these for the foreseeable future. They actually bite more as they warm up. :dunno:

Anyway, sorry for the rambling, but hope it helps. If not, please disregard.

Ought to be stickied, seriously...

[ddemetrius456]

Very nice post.And interesting too.Thanks for the information sharing with us.Keep it up.Keep posting.

[Tomisimo]

I think if you live in places where you have heels and mounts, and you like to drive enthusiastically, the Sloted is the way to go, but for normal use around town and the highway, Blanks will do just fine.
Pads are not that expensive and not that much of a hustle to change them neither.
What do you guys that have PowerSlots think about those? are they up to the task?

[lostforawhile]

I think if you live in places where you have heels and mounts, and you like to drive enthusiastically, the Sloted is the way to go, but for normal use around town and the highway, Blanks will do just fine.
Pads are not that expensive and not that much of a hustle to change them neither.
What do you guys that have PowerSlots think about those? are they up to the task?
that post before yours I think the guy is a computer all his posts are nearly identical with the words shifted around. strange too it shows him at three posts when he has five,all almost identical.

[Tomisimo]

I was refering to the thread.. and yes, I seen hes posts, those are identical.. I think he use a BOT

[Accordian88]

Here's a plus,they r fine now!
got some new tires on the front and they dont wobble any more.
i think a weight must've fallen off the wheel or something
now i want some 16's, these 13's suck!:thumbup:

[Tdurr]

bump for info posted. good thread.

[da9]

Oem ftw