looking at issues at hand

[codebreaker]

Ok, It seems I've made no connections with people here. Most think I'm rich or they think I think I'm better them everyone else. I'm not rich and I'm no better than anyone else.
Sorry, had to get that out first.
I own an 89 Accord DX 4DR, It's all stock and it was never cared for by past owners.The interior is in poor shape. the body is fixable. I just had the passanger side wheel hub in the front redone due to broken studs.
The radiator just got replace with a junkyard 90 Accord radiator. Had to cut the nipples off the top of the radiator to fit but, work fine.
When i got the car two months ago I put new rotors and pads on it. I found the passenger side coil spring was broken in two spots and still have been driving it. The radiator went out wednessday and ifxed it as said above drove it then got home and the driver side coil spring dropped. Had the spring and strut mounts already, just not the struts. Got struts it will be done today. The coil spring, struts, radiator were all original to the car. Yes, 20yr old struts that had gone 256,000 miles.
I want to rebeuild this car and have made a decision on keeping the A20A1 motor. I have read that these are good strong motors that worked right can put out around 200hp without turbo, but I'm thinking thats with the A20A3 ( not sure though). Here is the problems with the carbed motor I have...
In the morning or if the motor is cold it starts hard like it is going to stall after a few minutes it rev's up to 2200-2600rpm's after five minutes I can kick it down to 1200rpm's while in park. When I put it in drive it's 700rpm's. The motor is very silent, Can barley tell it's running. It's an auto and it shifts alittle high and hard sometimes but it gets up and goes like a champ. What can I do to fix these issues so that later when I go to rebuild the car I won't have the same issues.

[cygnus x-1]

Ok, It seems I've made no connections with people here. Most think I'm rich or they think I think I'm better them everyone else. I'm not rich and I'm no better than anyone else.
Sorry, had to get that out first.

:huh: How can you possibly know that? You've only posted 8 times. I think you're being paranoid. So keep asking questions and don't worry about it. :)





The radiator just got replace with a junkyard 90 Accord radiator. Had to cut the nipples off the top of the radiator to fit but, work fine.

That could be some useful information. Parts for these cars are getting harder to find everyday so it's always cool when someone finds swappable parts from newer cars.




I want to rebeuild this car and have made a decision on keeping the A20A1 motor. I have read that these are good strong motors that worked right can put out around 200hp without turbo, but I'm thinking thats with the A20A3 ( not sure though).

While 200HP is possible without a turbo it will be a serious amount of work. A complete rebuild with forged pistons, high compression ratio, upgraded rods, lots of head work including custom larger valves and a high duration cam. For fueling you'll need dual Weber carbs and a custom manifold, or you can convert to to EFI with an OBD1 conversion or go all out with a standalone ECU. I like EFI but the carbs would probably be easier and cheaper since you already have a carburetted car.




Here is the problems with the carbed motor I have...
In the morning or if the motor is cold it starts hard like it is going to stall after a few minutes it rev's up to 2200-2600rpm's after five minutes I can kick it down to 1200rpm's while in park. When I put it in drive it's 700rpm's. The motor is very silent, Can barley tell it's running. It's an auto and it shifts alittle high and hard sometimes but it gets up and goes like a champ. What can I do to fix these issues so that later when I go to rebuild the car I won't have the same issues.


Hard starting could be a lot of things. If you haven't already, start with the common tune up things, new distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires, air and fuel filters, and change ALL fluids. Then adjust the ignition timing and check all the hoses for vacuum leaks. Then move on to the carb. Make sure the choke and linkages function properly. If he carb is really cruddy get some carb cleaner and go to town on it. If your up for it get a rebuild kit and rebuild the carb. If you still have issues after that it's going to take some more involved work to find them. But start with the other stuff first and see what happens.

For the trans, the autos are not the best transmissions around. Most people here would prefer the manual. It is possible to do a swap if you have the inclination and all the parts. There may be some old threads about this if you search around. Try changing the fluid and see if that helps the shifting any. Beyond that I really can't help you much with the trans.

C|

[codebreaker]

I thought I read a post somewhere that an A20A3 from an LX-I would fit on my A20A1. If I read that right, could that be use for my A-series conversion along with the rest of the EFI parts. would I still need a full wire harness or could mine be converted? Yes, I was wanting to swap the auto trans for a 5 speed trans. I to have heard bad things about the auto trans myself. as far as the other problems all fuilds have been changed, new plugs /not wires or cap and rotor. Carb is very clean looking down into it and gives plenty of fuel.
the vac lines is a good start I was looking into replacing them all. There are just so many, wow. My mechanic friend even said damm where to start. Those to are more than likely 20yrs old. and I change the pcv valve also. It's not hard to start just the process I have to go through to get it running smoth. once It's running it purrs like a kitten. Thanks, still looking for more info if anyone wants to give it.

[ghettogeddy]

pritty much anything from an accord form 86-89 fit unless its body parts between sedan coupe and hatch then pritty much from the front windshild forward is still the same on all models just behind that is differnet lol

as far as the making contacts thing people here act that way cause if you dont have proof they dont believe you lol post some pics and make it happen

[Joay]

I thought I read a post somewhere that an A20A3 from an LX-I would fit on my A20A1. If I read that right, could that be use for my A-series conversion along with the rest of the EFI parts. would I still need a full wire harness or could mine be converted?
You would need a new harness along with parts of the fuel system from an LX-i. The whole procedure has been very well documented here (http://www.geocities.com/carotman/howto/eficonv/EFIconversion.htm).

[codebreaker]

pritty much anything from an accord form 66-89 fit unless its body parts between sedan coupe and hatch then pritty much from the front windshild forward is still the same on all models just behind that is differnet lol

as far as the making contacts thing people here act that way cause if you dont have proof they dont believe you lol post some pics and make it happen

How do I put up pic everytime I try they don't work.

[Dr_Snooz]

For the shifting, adjust your TV cable, then swap to a manual.

[cygnus x-1]

The A20A1 and A20A3 are essentially the same engine, except that one has a carb and the other has fuel injection. It's possible to swap from one to the other but there is a fair amount of work involved. The link posted is a good writeup.

For pictures, you need a hosting site like photobucket, or imageshack, or one of the million other hosting sites to first get your pictures on the web. Then you just paste a link to each picture into your message.

Not much to say about the vacuum lines, except that they suck hard. Have you checked to see if the choke is closing enough? That would make for rough cold starts.

C|

[lostforawhile]

pritty much anything from an accord form 66-89 fit unless its body parts between sedan coupe and hatch then pritty much from the front windshild forward is still the same on all models just behind that is differnet lol

as far as the making contacts thing people here act that way cause if you dont have proof they dont believe you lol post some pics and make it happenthey made accords in '66? :jaw: :lol:

[ghettogeddy]

they made accords in '66? :jaw: :lol:

fixed kik i was alil drunk then lol

whttp://imageshack.us/

make an account and when you upload pics it will give you codes to post on the forums the click able thumbnails are the ones most prefer as they stay small on the forum but you can make thew larger

[codebreaker]

I don't know if this works but, here are pics of my 89 Accord. tell me if this works ok.
http://rodneymorford.photoecoz.com/


I tried it and it worked well.

[codebreaker]

As far as I can tell it does. Willcheck it again. The vac lines are all shot so I plan on buying about 50ft of vac hose and replacing them all and see how that works.

[Dr_Snooz]

I don't know if this works but, here are pics of my 89 Accord. tell me if this works ok.
http://rodneymorford.photoecoz.com/


I tried it and it worked well.

Alright, please explain the forehead print in the dash...

[lostforawhile]

Alright, please explain the forehead print in the dash...

probably has something to do with the 100 feet of vacuum line under the hood

[car6289]

codebreaker:

http://honda.roadpwnage.com/manuals/pages/usdm-accord-1989-full.php

This link will lead you to the 1989 USDM Honda Accord Service Manual that is generously provided by Paul Aerodeck86. I'm doing some of your homework for you.
After you get the manual (pdf download) go to Engine - Fuel & Emissions (Carb) pages 11-1 to 11-41 inclusive. In this section there is a Symptom-to-System troubleshooting flow chart of sorts that deals with most things carburetor, from starting to poor performance.

lostforawhile could be on to something, so many feet of rubber hose, so many years= potential for so many leaks, or misconnections by previous owners.

I have been very fortunate with my 3G Accords with respect to carb and transmission issues. Fortunate is an understatement. I've driven over 500,000KMs or in your world over 300,000 miles in a 3G. Both of them with auto trans and carb.

School is back in session time for you to do some reading and fixing

:beer:

[stat1K]

this is the same guy that keeps joining making posts and getting banned isnt it?

[car6289]

He might be wearing a banned-aid so he can post again. :rolleyes: