New motor mounts.. [Archive] - 3geez.com - Classic Honda Accord & Prelude Forum

CzEcHy

10-13-2009, 01:24 PM

Alrighty so for the past year I've had horrible vibrations when in D4 and not moving.. So I adjusted the idle screw (keep in mind its a carburated a20a1, automatic) and raised the idle to around 1000rpm in D4 and it went between 1200 and 1500 in N or P (horrible for the car I know..)

Anyway I got ALL 3 mounts done last night and found out 2 were shot, the front mount was all messed up..

I've lowered the idle to around 750ish for drive and the car still vibrates, and sometime wants to die..

That and it fluctuates slightly like I have a vaccum leak (which I shouldn't I just replaced the bad lines an checked them all a couple of months ago)

Anyway, does it take some time for the mounts to wear in to where the vibrations will stop, I guess I was just dreaming the mounts would of fixed it the second they were put in lol..

Any info would be helpful, or personal experiences with soft mounts

EDIT - I used the idle stop screw to adjust the idle (bad idea Y/N?)

TurboRu

10-13-2009, 06:02 PM

CzEcHy

10-13-2009, 06:20 PM

nah motor mounts don't break in.... it sounds like its ur tranny to me. does the vibration do it in neutral? or just D4 when you put ur foot on the brake? Does it do it on in reverse?

try checkin ur tranny fluid...

its been a year so ur tranny might be toasted by now.
Does it slip at all when u floor it?
Does it clunk when you engage any gear?

I had a tranny in a 89 benz that wouldn't slip but did vibrate in D and would clunk going into gears. That thing was fried....

just my 2 pennies

Only In D4 does it vibrate, it raises to like 800-900 in N and it's smooth as butter..

Also does it in reverse, and shifting between R and D4 made it stall..

It doesn't slip when I floor it, at all.. It's actually shifting smooth as a whistle after the mounts..

But it does clunk when I shift into R I think, or maybe from R to D4 or vice versa..

They told me the fluid was fine, and it's to old/to many miles to replace the fluid or something (miles = 237,xxx)

CzEcHy

10-13-2009, 06:21 PM

Only In D4 does it vibrate, it raises to like 800-900 in N and it's smooth as butter..

Also vibrates it in reverse, and shifting between R and D4 made it stall..

It doesn't slip when I floor it, at all.. It's actually shifting smooth as a whistle after the mounts..

But it does clunk when I shift into R I think, or maybe from R to D4 or vice versa..

They told me the fluid was fine, and it's to old/to many miles to replace the fluid or something (miles = 237,xxx)

Accidently hit quote and not reply for some reason ^^ updated message anyway)

Vanilla Sky

10-14-2009, 02:38 AM

nfs480

10-14-2009, 07:32 AM

It's not too late to change the fluid. There's a myth that changing the transmission fluid in high mileage transmissions will shock them and cause them to fail, this is not true. If you're really worried just do a drain and fill (not a flush), pull the drain plug on the bottom of the tranny and it will drain about 50% of the fluid, reinstall the drain plug and refill with 3.2 quarts of an ATF meeting the Dexron II specification (ATF-Z1 works really well) and you'll definitely extend the life of the transmission unless it's shot already.

EDIT: Also, the mounts should have fixed the vibrations immediately. I had horrible vibrations when stopped in D4 and I replaced the front and rear motor mounts and immediately the first time I started the car after I was done with the project the motor ran smooth.

Vanilla Sky

10-14-2009, 08:17 AM

On the ATF note, stick with ATF-Z from the dealership. More and more of the guys around here are nearly curing their transmission problems with the stuff. As long as your old fluid isn't burnt or full of clutch, you should be fine to do a drain and fill.

CzEcHy

10-14-2009, 08:52 AM

It does sound like a vac leak. Are you setting the idle speed in gear or in park? It should be set in D4 with the parking brake on and the wheels chocked. I think idle speed should be set between 750 an 800 RPM under those conditions.

Does anything make the condition go away, like warming the engine up?

Have you checked your coolant level? While it normally won't itself cause such a vibration, it may cause a fluctuating idle.

I set it in P, I guess I'll set it when in D4..

And the engine being warm doesn't really do much..

And for my coolant, my radiator is leaky, so it's basically water in the radiator..

I've had alot of small problems with my car, and have been to poor to fix them properly, so ya..

On a side note about the front mount, the engine seems to be slightly higher on the left side (from the front looking back), it wasn't like that before, is it supposed to be..?

(The mounts were identical to my old ones except new and the front mount had a bolt like a mile high instead of a couple of inches like the old one)

I just wanted the car to stop vibrating and get to lower my idle so my brakes would work, I'm highly disappointed..

Vanilla Sky

10-14-2009, 09:43 AM

CzEcHy

10-14-2009, 09:45 AM

Did you replace the driver's side mount or the transmission mount? Technically, we have 4 mounts holding the drive train up.

Snap a pic for us. That will help a lot.

As for the leaky radiator, they're not too expensive. You can get a Koyo on ebay for around $100. I'd save up and get that done right.

I replaced the big front mount, the mount near the brake booster (closest known object), the mount near the firewall..

There's a fourth one?! They told me that was all of them <.<

CzEcHy

10-14-2009, 09:58 AM

Alright here is the pictures of the old mounts...

Front
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/czechy/2009-10-14125130.jpg

Firewall?
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/czechy/2009-10-14125141.jpg

Drivers side near the top (easiest one to get to apparently)
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/czechy/2009-10-14125149.jpg

Vanilla Sky

10-14-2009, 10:03 AM

It's under the car, it keeps the transmission from shifting around. It's mounted to the transmission crossmember.

What about pics of the engine sitting in the bay? It may just be an issue with the driver's side mount.

CzEcHy

10-14-2009, 10:19 AM

Here is the best pictures I could do (camera phone bare with)..

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/czechy/2009-10-14131149.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/czechy/2009-10-14131156.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/czechy/2009-10-14131203.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/czechy/2009-10-14131256.jpg

The bar isn't straight.. It's up higher on the engine side...

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/czechy/2009-10-14131231.jpg

See the leaning?

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a109/czechy/2009-10-14131312.jpg

Vanilla Sky

10-14-2009, 10:38 AM

IIRC, the rear mount is specific to the transmission, with one being taller. Would it be possible that you got the wrong rear engine mount?

LX-incredible

10-14-2009, 10:42 AM

I used some crappy chinese or taiwanese mounts on my auto and the vibrations actually got worse. Turns out the front mount was completely solid, not liquid filled like oem.

CzEcHy

10-14-2009, 10:48 AM

IIRC, the rear mount is specific to the transmission, with one being taller. Would it be possible that you got the wrong rear engine mount?

I went to O'reilly auto parts and ordered all 3 at the same time..

The front mount is 1 1/2 inch HIGHER than my old mount (just measured it with a ruler..)

The rear mount, no idea, it looked identical when I pulled it from the box..

The new mounts also feel like solid hard rubber, which is bad prob..?

LX-incredible

10-14-2009, 10:54 AM

The oem has probably collapsed over time and when new will give a bit when the motor is set on it. A solid front mount will give you excessive vibrations.

CzEcHy

10-14-2009, 11:01 AM

The oem has probably collapsed over time and when new will give a bit when the motor is set on it. A solid front mount will give you excessive vibrations.

So will it take some time for the new mount to wear in and soften? Maybe vibrate less?

I'm kind of angry I just spent almost 200$ I didn't really have to get the mounts and get them installed..

The front one is rubber, not solid, but it is super hard rubber..

Any idea why my engine is higher on the left hand side (looking towards the windshield)? And is that bad?

nfs480

10-14-2009, 11:01 AM

You might have had better luck with Genuine Honda motor mounts (which are the ones I used) from this website: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/

Oldblueaccord

10-14-2009, 11:18 AM

Other thing is there is a TSB for our cars with the torque converter not slipping enough at idle in gear. That sounds about what your feeling but I would still get your mounts straightened out.

wp

gtmst3

10-14-2009, 11:23 AM

my car clunks when going into park seems to do it at random times no slipping and trannny fluid is fine what do you think?

CzEcHy

10-14-2009, 12:24 PM

If anybody can get me an OEM front mount (the big one with the rubber cover), and ship it to me, in NW Florida, for around 75$ or less, I would love them..

I need one from like Majestic Honda or a Honda dealership, no parts stores or aftermarket names please.

If anybody can help, please PM me.. (I have a credit card but I just don't want to deal with the hassle of ordering)..

Or just find me a super cheap one, and I'll do it..

I just don't want to pay the 90+$ at the dealership for one mount....

(Kind of to poor for that much <.<)

nfs480

10-14-2009, 01:19 PM

The front mount on Majestic looks like it costs $63.23 plus shipping and handling.

CzEcHy

10-14-2009, 01:42 PM

The front mount on Majestic looks like it costs $63.23 plus shipping and handling.

This is OEM identical to my old mount right? I don't want another screw up, especially not one that I have to order...

Vanilla Sky

10-14-2009, 01:55 PM

Let me check my cars. I think the front mount was replaced just before I parked one of them. Would be A LOT cheaper than $75. If I have one, maybe you should take a trip and pick up a radiator, too.

nfs480

10-14-2009, 01:55 PM

It would be identical to the mount that came with the car when it was brand new.

w261w261

10-14-2009, 02:23 PM

This is OEM identical to my old mount right? I don't want another screw up, especially not one that I have to order...

I gather from this post that you are not familiar with Majestic. They are a Honda dealer located in Rhode Island with a large internet parts business. They sell at Honda list less 25%, although there is a small per-order fee of 5 bucks or so. They ship quickly, unless they have to back order from a warehouse, then it's a couple more days. Being a dealer, everything is Honda OEM or approved rebuilt. Although that can cost more, for me, given the wide variation in quality of the aftermarket, it's worth it, because a job won't have to be done over because of a flawed part. I did stop short of getting a new distributor from them, however, as it was $600+ (yikes). I bought one from an aftermarket rebuilder, and it didn't work, so it was off to the JY.

CzEcHy

10-14-2009, 03:02 PM

Let me check my cars. I think the front mount was replaced just before I parked one of them. Would be A LOT cheaper than $75. If I have one, maybe you should take a trip and pick up a radiator, too.

I don't know how far away you are lol, but I would love to spend less than 75$, since majestic would be like 63$ + whatever s/h is..

I just want the motor to sit right, I can deal with the vibration, since lowering my idle fixed my odd shift points, and the car doesn't vibrate past 60 anymore (guess it was the mounts)

CzEcHy

10-15-2009, 01:05 PM

Alright went and bought 3qt of the ATF-Z1 (30$ for them and the stupid washer...)

Anyway I went to go do it and couldn't get the drain bolt off so I gave up.. I guess I'll be waiting for my buddy to do that to since he has the patience for something like that and something to loosen the bolt..

I swear whenever I try to do something simple it turns out to be hard and more money than it should be <.<

One of you guys needs to live near me so I can get some good technical advice/help lol

nfs480

10-15-2009, 06:18 PM

Do you have a breaker bar with a 3/8" drive or a 1/2" breaker bar with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter? If so you should be able to get it off relatively easily so long as you are turning in the right direction.

ecogabriel

10-16-2009, 07:36 PM

Other thing is there is a TSB for our cars with the torque converter not slipping enough at idle in gear. That sounds about what your feeling but I would still get your mounts straightened out.

wp

I have that f... vibration and have suspected the torque converter. Do you know more about the TSB?

OH, there is a procedure in the service manual to torque the mounts in sequence.

86-87 use a front solid mount; 88-89 used a liquid-filled one. One may see the difference in the bracket that goes from the top of the mount to the engine; older cars is a stamped sheetmetal piece whereas late 3gs seem to be a machined piece. I saw them in detail in the junkyard

CzEcHy

11-14-2009, 12:49 PM

Update..

Ordered the OEM front mount from the dealership ($106.xx)

Vibrations relaxed for a few days (still had a very slight vibration), but now they seem to have come back..

Not like before I got the mounts done, but still noticeable..

The side/back mount(s) were the ones from the auto parts store, could those be the problem?!

I just want the damn vibrations gone when I'm in D4 and at a stop light..

On a side note, the radiator just got replaced, and I managed to fill the transmission after draining half

($31) for 3qts of ATF-Z1 from the dealership..

It made the car shift a bit smoother, but it still needs the rest of the old stuff removed, and I need some major tune-ups on the cables like the accelerator/transmission/etc...

(aka new cables)

Dr_Snooz

11-14-2009, 03:52 PM

I had a shop replace the motor mounts on my Bimmer and it vibrated like a mofo. Turned out they were rock hard. Replaced them with the correct mounts and all is well now.

Czechy, you do well to avoid the Kragens, O'Reillys, Pep Boys and all those other high volume, low price places, especially if you can't afford for your repairs to go wrong. You can trust Napa parts though. I use them and they are always top notch. Kragen parts have left me stranded and added towing bills to the cost of their "cheaper" alternator. Stick with OEM Honda or Napa parts. The front mount from them is $43.99. Good luck with your repair.

CzEcHy

11-14-2009, 09:51 PM

I just need the side and rear mount now.. front is oem and soft.

Altho napa has told me they use the same brand mounts as advance and the other car places, is my napa different lol?

Dr_Snooz

11-15-2009, 09:00 AM

Napa is mostly a franchise operation. Different stores have different owners and some are better than others. The one I went to in the Bay when I lived there was awesome. The guys had all worked there since the dawn of time, had used all the stuff they sold and knew what was good, what was okay and what to avoid. When I ordered Bimmer parts, they would go out and find me OEM stuff. Here in Fresno it's a lot different. The guys aren't nearly as on the ball, they don't really know what they sell and don't know anything about Bimmers. That said, the parts are still awesome.

About the only other route than the dealer is to go online to a Rock Auto and buy by manufacturer. Stick with Beck Arnley or NipponDenso and you'll get good parts.