Weber guys, i need your help!

[87AccordLXsdn]

Ok, so I'm working in getting all of the vacuum lines out and I just have a few questions before I jack something up and can't figure out what I did. Hope these pictures help with what I'm trying to do. Don't mind the editing, it was done on my phone ha. From what I've gathered, ONLY the #2 line needs to be hooked up, correct? And # 25 CAN be hooked up, but doesn't need to be? All of the others just get ripped out? As for the two things in this first pic, do they stay in place but just get capped?

http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs253.snc1/10029_151487319580_506844580_2565459_1294061_n.jpg

Do I keep this black thing with the two lines and just cap it?

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs273.snc1/10029_151486959580_506844580_2565457_1162666_n.jpg

http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs273.snc1/10029_151502029580_506844580_2565511_2572910_n.jpg

Do I just cap the blue thing on the back of the engine and tie in line #2 onto the port above it? Sorry for only knowing the colors and not names of things ha. Hope you guys can help me out with this. Car is dieseling when I shut it off and was told it could either be a vacuum leak or, at least on older cars, carbon build up that gets too hot and keeps firing. Thanks in advance!

[2oodoor]

you do not need any of that except the vacuum advance on the distributor

You can just leave the lines off the thremalwax valves, they are not source for vacuum just switch the in's to out's when the temp reaches the rating of the valve itself.
The dieseling is indication you have the throttle stop open too much to obtain decent idle. You should back it off and readjust the idle mix screw to get your idle as best you can then barely tweek the throttle stop to make up any.

Check for vacuum leaks several times!!

[87AccordLXsdn]

Thanks for the info! But I'm having a hard time following...what are the thermalwax valves and what do you mean by switch the in's to out's? Sorry if that sounds dumb ha. Aaaand where is the throttle stop? Can you point it out in either of these pics?

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs276.snc1/10328_151628404580_506844580_2566057_5687115_n.jpg

http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs273.snc1/10029_151629834580_506844580_2566074_2132631_n.jpg

And in this pic, not sure if you can see it, but the arrow points to the only screw I know of to control the idle.

http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs276.snc1/10328_151627184580_506844580_2566054_3032850_n.jpg


I have the idle set to about 800 rpm. Is there another screw to help with leaning it out a little? This dieseling thing makes me mad, that's why I wanna get rid of the vacuum lines and get this adjusted correctly. I also spent the morning tearing the carb down and cleaning it all out. Runs a little smoother, until I shut it off..

[2ndGenGuy]

Dieseling is a result of the carb running lean. It's not a rich condition as you might think. The thermowax valves are the blue and yellow things (and maybe another color too) that screw into different places on the intake manifold and the thermostat neck. They have the two nipples on them that allow vacuum to pass or not to pass depending on the coolant temperature at that location.

As far as getting it tuned right, you need to follow this guide:

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm

Follow it to the T. Do exactly as that thing says and your car will run amazing. That screw in your bottom picture is the idle mixture screw. Turning it in leans out the mixture and pulling it out richens it. Your carb looks used, so be ready for that mixture screw to be in our out too far. You can get by like that for a while, but you will likely have to rejet.

Don't leave anything uncapped, and make sure that adapter base isn't leaking vacuum at all. If you have any vacuum leaks at all, that carb will never run right and will always misbehave. It's absolutely critical to eliminate vacuum leaks. Dieseling is a symptom of a vacuum leak due ot the lean condition it creates.

[greentee76]

My guess is that the dieseling is caused by the throttle plates not being closed all the way. You need a heavier return spring and need to find a way to take the angle out of the throttle cable where it passed through the bracket by the carb.
I had problems with dieseling on mine until I got these things tweaked correctly.

[87AccordLXsdn]

Well, I think I might have figured out the dieseling problem. Lost a cap somewhere and after 3 shut downs, everything seems much better. Thanks for all the info and the link to redline. Helped a lot but, I ended up setting it right back to how I had it. Go figure! I'll be taking on the getting rid of the rest of the lines here in the next couple of days. I'll keep ya updated. Thanks again!

[88Accord-DX]

That throttle cable isn't going to open up the throttle plates on the secondary side with the way you have it.

The cable needs to go through the bracket lower & the cable needs to pass around the top & go down on the fulcrum.

http://www.3geez.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4558&d=1139372742

[87AccordLXsdn]

Hey yeah thanks for the input. I actually have it rigged up with a small piece of aluminum so it'll open up the secondary. It opens up at about half throttle. Seems to be working fine so far, until it falls off.