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9shorty20
10-26-2009, 02:18 PM
hey guys can you guys help me out..i dont know if its been asked before but i cant find it here..my car will only start sometimes..i dont know if its the battery or alternator..i bought the battery like 4 months ago so its fairly new:ugh2:

nswst8
10-26-2009, 02:27 PM
Before you get flamed. You need to describe what is going on. Most times it is the main fuel relay for the LXi models but we need more info to assist you.

If the interior of the car gets to hot and the main fuel relay solder joints expand relay won't allow fuel pump to engage. (Car turns over but will not start)

This has been answered here many many times before so search alittle harder.

9shorty20
10-26-2009, 02:31 PM
well the inside of the car doesnt get hot at all....the battery dies pretty fast but only sometimes i know it sounds stupid but thats what it does...itll start if i jump start it or push start it

jasonrebellion
10-26-2009, 02:42 PM
sounds like you've either got a short or a bad alternator. autozone will test your alternator. try that first. the alternator isn't the funnest thing to replace on these cars. also...check the tension and condition of the alternator drive belt..a loose belt could also be the culprit

nswst8
10-26-2009, 03:05 PM
well the inside of the car doesnt get hot at all....the battery dies pretty fast but only sometimes i know it sounds stupid but thats what it does...itll start if i jump start it or push start it

Get a multimeter check the voltage of the battery with the car off. then start the car and note the voltage should be 13.5 - 14.5

If the alt is charging ( you need 1/2 volt more than what you are charging) then I'd suspect a current drain on the battery. Use a test light in series on the negative of the battery and start pulling fuses one at a time to isolate the drain.

9shorty20
05-08-2010, 05:51 PM
i took the starter to autozone and they said it was good and they also checked the alternator and it was good..and now the car shakes when i come to a stop..could the the ignition switch be the reason for it not starting

AccordB20A
05-08-2010, 09:14 PM
ive had the ignition barrel switch fail in such a way that it turns the ignition back off again when you turn it to start

9shorty20
06-03-2010, 06:16 PM
the car wouldnt start today again...same symptoms..so my friend popped the hood and was searching around..he switched the power window relay with the cooling fan relay and it started right up:ugh2:he then switched them again and the car would crank and start but would turn off instantly....any ideas what it is...ima buy a new relay to see if that does it

dreeeemA
06-03-2010, 10:57 PM
hard to say but it could be an inline fuse of the battery that runs that side. a basic multimeter will test the fuses correctly and are fairly cheep.

lostforawhile
06-04-2010, 06:57 AM
the car wouldnt start today again...same symptoms..so my friend popped the hood and was searching around..he switched the power window relay with the cooling fan relay and it started right up:ugh2:he then switched them again and the car would crank and start but would turn off instantly....any ideas what it is...ima buy a new relay to see if that does itI can't remember which circuit it is, but I believe that relay switches power for several circuits. I need to locate my wiring diagram. I'll let you know when I can find it


hard to say but it could be an inline fuse of the battery that runs that side. a basic multimeter will test the fuses correctly and are fairly cheep.where do you get this stuff?

9shorty20
06-04-2010, 07:06 PM
I can't remember which circuit it is, but I believe that relay switches power for several circuits. I need to locate my wiring diagram. I'll let you know when I can find it



thank you lost please do cuz this thing has me running around in circles

lostforawhile
06-04-2010, 07:45 PM
the car wouldnt start today again...same symptoms..so my friend popped the hood and was searching around..he switched the power window relay with the cooling fan relay and it started right up:ugh2:he then switched them again and the car would crank and start but would turn off instantly....any ideas what it is...ima buy a new relay to see if that does it

it sounds like you isolated the problem, i'm sure someone has a spare relay they can send you

9shorty20
06-05-2010, 03:42 PM
it sounds like you isolated the problem, i'm sure someone has a spare relay they can send you

im just gonna order it from my local imported auto parts store...i think its like 20 bucks

9shorty20
06-08-2010, 06:45 PM
alright so two days ago i go to start the car and it starts right up..that was in the morning...the next day i turned it on but it was in the afternoon....it wouldnt start so i drive down to the gas station..turn it off.and go back to turn it on and it starts..after that i went to the store..lasted about 20 minutes and i go to start it and it wont start..itll start in the morning and at night when its cold but when its hot it wont start atleast thats the pattern im seeing..i just hooked up a new main relay and still the same thing.....this shit is driving me crazy

Bluntman
06-08-2010, 07:03 PM
alright so two days ago i go to start the car and it starts right up..that was in the morning...the next day i turned it on but it was in the afternoon....it wouldnt start so i drive down to the gas station..turn it off.and go back to turn it on and it starts..after that i went to the store..lasted about 20 minutes and i go to start it and it wont start..itll start in the morning and at night when its cold but when its hot it wont start atleast thats the pattern im seeing..i just hooked up a new main relay and still the same thing.....this shit is driving me crazy

If you mean it is turning and not starting at these times it could be a Bad ECT ( Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor, by what you are describing. These will not always throw a code. Maybe I am late to the party and you are talking about the charging system.

9shorty20
06-08-2010, 07:39 PM
If you mean it is turning and not starting at these times it could be a Bad ECT ( Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor, by what you are describing. These will not always throw a code. Maybe I am late to the party and you are talking about the charging system.

na man it wont turn....its like a dead battery it wont do anything..the check engine light will come on and everything all the components turn on radio etc...

rc00netzero
06-08-2010, 10:16 PM
So when the failure happens, everything electrical in the car works ok but the starter will not turn the engine? But, you can push start it?..

Hmm - That sounds like an intermittent problem in the starter circuit. Could be ignition switch, wiring, loose solenoid connection, bad solenoid or bad engine ground. The "S" terminal (B/W wire I think) on the starter should have (12V) power when the key is turned to "Start" position. Check for that during next failure.
If OK, try a 10 to 14 gauge jumper wire from positive bat terminal to "S" terminal w/ switch in "Run" position (BE CAREFUL to not make sparks close to the battery!!:burn:). If engine doesn't crank over, solenoid is bad or not grounded properly (BTW are your engine to frame ground wires (one is on valve cover) in good shape?).

I once had similar problem (not Honda but still possible) - the solenoid contains a relay that connects the BAT terminal to the starter motor when power is put to "S" terminal. The contacts for this are 2 fixed copper contacts and a copper disk that moves to connect them. This disk can get burned spots on part of the disk. The disk is also free to spin and so sometimes the burned spots line up with the fixed contacts, and the starter doesn't get enough power to work. Click it to start and back enough times - the disk moves enough for the clean areas to line up and it works fine...

ecogabriel
06-09-2010, 07:29 AM
So when the failure happens, everything electrical in the car works ok but the starter will not turn the engine? But, you can push start it?..

Hmm - That sounds like an intermittent problem in the starter circuit. Could be ignition switch, wiring, loose solenoid connection, bad solenoid or bad engine ground. The "S" terminal (B/W wire I think) on the starter should have (12V) power when the key is turned to "Start" position. Check for that during next failure.
If OK, try a 10 to 14 gauge jumper wire from positive bat terminal to "S" terminal w/ switch in "Run" position (BE CAREFUL to not make sparks close to the battery!!:burn:). If engine doesn't crank over, solenoid is bad or not grounded properly (BTW are your engine to frame ground wires (one is on valve cover) in good shape?).

I once had similar problem (not Honda but still possible) - the solenoid contains a relay that connects the BAT terminal to the starter motor when power is put to "S" terminal. The contacts for this are 2 fixed copper contacts and a copper disk that moves to connect them. This disk can get burned spots on part of the disk. The disk is also free to spin and so sometimes the burned spots line up with the fixed contacts, and the starter doesn't get enough power to work. Click it to start and back enough times - the disk moves enough for the clean areas to line up and it works fine...

I don't know if 3Gs came with Denso starters from the factory (mine is not that brand), but what you described is exactly the parts I replaced in my Civic and gayota starters (both are Denso). Sometimes they would start, sometimes they won't, and the problem got worse over time.

ecogabriel
06-09-2010, 02:34 PM
For what you describe it seems you starter sometimes decides to work, sometimes not to. What I (and r00....) are talking about may be seen in the photo below
(NOTE: only applies if you have a DENSO starter)

http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/starter/denso_starter_rebuilt.html?3593=75208&utm_source=shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=adv&3593=75208&3671=1003

Note that this is a photo of a Denso starter (but not for a 3G). In the photo of the right you can see a squarish-like cover. Next to it you can also see a nut (where the battery positive wire attaches to) and a smaller connector to activate the solenoid.
Inside that cover there are pieces like those in the link below (they also sell the contacts and plunger)
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/densoparts.html

If you need help on how to disassemble it and what to look for,
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
(actually, read the whole procedure if it applies to your case)

I fixed my first Denso (gayota camry) using a website like the one above. gayota sells the contacts
for my second denso starter (5G civic) it was a little more difficult because Honda does not sell those contacts. I got a repair kit from advanceautoparts.com and fixed it with that.

If you have a denso starter, take that cover out and see what it is inside. If the contacs are worn out just get a replacement set and fix it yourself. It will work like new.

9shorty20
06-09-2010, 06:10 PM
So when the failure happens, everything electrical in the car works ok but the starter will not turn the engine? But, you can push start it?..

Hmm - That sounds like an intermittent problem in the starter circuit. Could be ignition switch, wiring, loose solenoid connection, bad solenoid or bad engine ground. The "S" terminal (B/W wire I think) on the starter should have (12V) power when the key is turned to "Start" position. Check for that during next failure.
If OK, try a 10 to 14 gauge jumper wire from positive bat terminal to "S" terminal w/ switch in "Run" position (BE CAREFUL to not make sparks close to the battery!!:burn:). If engine doesn't crank over, solenoid is bad or not grounded properly (BTW are your engine to frame ground wires (one is on valve cover) in good shape?).

I once had similar problem (not Honda but still possible) - the solenoid contains a relay that connects the BAT terminal to the starter motor when power is put to "S" terminal. The contacts for this are 2 fixed copper contacts and a copper disk that moves to connect them. This disk can get burned spots on part of the disk. The disk is also free to spin and so sometimes the burned spots line up with the fixed contacts, and the starter doesn't get enough power to work. Click it to start and back enough times - the disk moves enough for the clean areas to line up and it works fine...

yeah everything electrical turns on fine and yeah i could just get out and push it and itll start right up....i think it might be the switch cuz yesterday i went to turn it on and nothing..then i moved the key up on the switch and it started right up..then i would start it how i usually start it(just stick the key and turn)and it started....i think it might be loose but im not sure...i gotta look around to see how to tell if the switch is good or not

9shorty20
06-09-2010, 06:12 PM
For what you describe it seems you starter sometimes decides to work, sometimes not to. What I (and r00....) are talking about may be seen in the photo below
(NOTE: only applies if you have a DENSO starter)


well i took the starter to autozone already and they told me it was good...so i dont know

Dr_Snooz
06-09-2010, 06:57 PM
How much corrosion is on your battery terminals? And take those Autozone tests with a grain of salt.

9shorty20
06-09-2010, 07:00 PM
How much corrosion is on your battery terminals? And take those Autozone tests with a grain of salt.

hahaha the terminals are clean man:lol:

SFCA1987lx
06-11-2010, 12:31 AM
Im going to guess the starter has to be to blame. Don't trust those free tests. Theres a reason they're free. If you're not losing power to everything else, but the car won't start, but will if you push start it, the starter has to be involved in some way. I would suggest taking it to a legitimate mechanic and asking them to test the starter out.

Dr_Snooz
06-11-2010, 09:51 PM
hahaha the terminals are clean man:lol:

How much corrosion is under the insulation? Is the insulation cracked? Are your grounds tight?

9shorty20
06-12-2010, 02:47 PM
How much corrosion is under the insulation? Is the insulation cracked? Are your grounds tight?

what insulation??

9shorty20
06-12-2010, 02:48 PM
Im going to guess the starter has to be to blame. Don't trust those free tests. Theres a reason they're free. If you're not losing power to everything else, but the car won't start, but will if you push start it, the starter has to be involved in some way. I would suggest taking it to a legitimate mechanic and asking them to test the starter out.

but wouldnt the motor atleast turn if it was the starter??

Dr_Snooz
06-12-2010, 04:45 PM
what insulation??

What condition are the battery wires in? Bad battery wires can cause this kind of problem. In addition to a lot of other stuff.

9shorty20
06-13-2010, 02:44 PM
What condition are the battery wires in? Bad battery wires can cause this kind of problem. In addition to a lot of other stuff.

well ive checked them already before and they were fine

9shorty20
06-13-2010, 02:45 PM
can the fuel pump be the reason for it not starting??and or how do you check to see if the fuel pump is working properly

SFCA1987lx
06-13-2010, 03:51 PM
but wouldnt the motor atleast turn if it was the starter??


Not really. If the solenoid is on the way out, if its not working right, it wouldnt turn the motor over. on the days that it doesn't start, does it make ANY noise from under the hood?

Oldblueaccord
06-14-2010, 12:23 PM
can the fuel pump be the reason for it not starting??and or how do you check to see if the fuel pump is working properly

if you can push start it its got fuel. That mean your Main relay checks ok so far since it just cuts /on/off fuel and your spark. Since your car does run its seem ok.


First thing you need to know is your battery good? it needs 12.7 volts at rest.

Second I would look at the battery terminals. The original honda terminals have to be tighten down ALL the way on newer batteries. The post on batteries are small and the bolt will bottom out and the terminal will just turn on the post.

Testing a starter off a car is no load cold which is not the best test of a starter since its used underload (on your motor) hot. I would consider a new one or at least change the motor brushes inside it. If there bad they will not delivery enough power (amps) to the motor to start. DC motors pull much more amps hot then cold.

Your ignition switch could also be bad. Usually you will notice when you start your car you will get no lights come on on your dash like a normal start condition.

If you have an Lxi look for a code on your ECU under your drivers seat.


wp

9shorty20
06-14-2010, 07:10 PM
alright so i took SFCA1987lx's advice and took the car down to a mechanic...and told him that i had just bought the battery recently and had the starter and alternator tested.....first thing he said...dont trust the free tests...:eek5:so i was like okay.....and so he tested everything and he said that the starter was acting kind of weird.....so i turned the car on and on for a couple times till it wouldnt turn on..and sure enough he hits the starter with a wrench and baaaam...ignition:Owned2:so the problem was found...now i know not to trust any free testing