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2ndGenGuy
11-09-2009, 11:50 PM
I've gone through 5 distributors on this car, and I'm getting tired of crappy, inconsistent timing on my engine, bouncing tachometers, and poor gas mileage (22mpg at last fill). I can't find an actual new distributor for the car, just a bunch of garbage rebuilds. So far 2 of them just plain didn't work out of the box, one of them fell apart in the store, one had a bearing go bad in it and was squealing horribly, and now the one I have is giving me the bouncy tach. It works, the car drives, but you can feel the car hesitating in lower gears as you cruise and decelerate.

I decided to remedy this problem by just totally dumping the distributor completely. How do you do this, you might ask? With the MegaJolt Lite Jr computer and a Ford EDIS ignition system. Yes, Ford parts on a Honda, and the Ford parts making the car better... The blasphemy is glorious!

So I've been researching, and totally inspired by Cygnus' project threads, and decided that this wasn't much more money than buying a new distributor. I thought I'd give it a whirl and get my car running without that silly, spinny mechanical thing.

Went to the wreckers on Saturday to scrounge up the ignition parts necessary. There were about 20 Ford Escorts at the yard to pilfer and plunder. And turned out none of them had any parts on them. The engines were pulled out of most of them and the rest already had the ignition parts missing. :gun:

But, alas, I bought this just tonight on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150386621478&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT
$71.94
:D

Everything I need to get started with the MegaJolt Lite Jr in one, already pulled, convenient kit!
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/BPhpOm2kKGrHgoH-EYEjlLly8EBJ0BRo2W_.jpg?t=1257837897



Also just picked up these:

http://www.autosportlabs.com/product_info.php?products_id=41{10}23{11}25{8}19{9 }21
The Megajolt Lite Jr computer.
$175.85

http://www.autosportlabs.com/sequential-cluster-p-38.html
The OMG sequential shift light for mad tyte 80hp power shifts!
$13.95

http://www.autosportlabs.com/hard-limiter-module-p-36.html
And the hard rev limiter module. I decided to buy the kit that comes with a PCB and all the little bits to solder onto the board, since this looked like a simple, and easy solder job for someone with minimal soldering experience. And if I screw it up, it doesn't screw everything else up with it...
$15.95

After shipping and sales tax (WTF Washington State) $227.77

My total tonight came to $299.71. Seems like a good price for a standalone, crank fired ignition system. :D

My goal for the weekend is to get my crank pulley machined down so that I can fit the trigger wheel on it. Basically, I'll be taking it, or a spare if I can find one, down to a machine shop and have them machine off the power steering and A/C pulleys, since the car has none of that anyways. :D

So that's all for now. Will be updating more soon!

Civic Accord Honda
11-09-2009, 11:54 PM
Omfg! Epic winrar you is be teh!!!!!!!!!

Nafs Asdf
11-10-2009, 12:10 AM
yay! :rockon:

2oodoor
11-10-2009, 10:43 AM
My next B20 carbed mod will be this, unless I find a deal on the crower cams first. I have been putting this off since way before the swap. An awesome <2ndGG write up and photo doc. will be a nice xmas hint hint

Hazwan
11-11-2009, 07:51 AM
Holy crap that is nice! This is interesting! More PICSSSSSSS!!!!!

2ndGenGuy
11-12-2009, 03:10 PM
Well I went to the wrecking yard looking for a spare pulley to mount the trigger wheel on (whenever it finally comes in...) and found a cute little 1976 Accord sitting in the yard. And what is cool is that it had a factory lightened pulley with no A/C or Power Steering pulleys on it.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/4352c452.jpg

$5 what a steal.

I thought I was going to have to send mine out to get the other pullies removed off of it, but this will do nicely. Of course, this all depends on the crank snout being the same size when the Accord moved up to the EK1. We will find out tonight.

SZfiftyfour
11-12-2009, 04:24 PM
Awesome mod! What distributor did your car have, the tec or hitachi?

Ichiban
11-12-2009, 05:16 PM
My distributor is toast. Stumbling and wacky needle to about 2800 RPM. My B20A is gonna get this eventually.

2ndGenGuy
11-12-2009, 07:14 PM
Awesome mod! What distributor did your car have, the tec or hitachi?

There is only 1 distributor for the 1gee. It wasn't until 82 that they got the two different manufacturers.


My distributor is toast. Stumbling and wacky needle to about 2800 RPM. My B20A is gonna get this eventually.

Yeah, I'm thinking mine will too. Definitely.

2ndGenGuy
11-12-2009, 11:24 PM
So good news. I compared the new pulley from the '76 with the one off of my '81.

The '76 pulley weighs about 1/3 the weight of the '81. I'm going to pick up a scale tomorrow so I can measure the weight difference, just out of curiosity.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/861897a3.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/c7aedbdd.jpg

As you can see here, the main pulley itself is the same size I have the '81 sitting under the '76:
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/deb6ae78.jpg

And the most important part, the snouts are the same size w00t! So this baby will fit right on the crankshaft. I know it's hard to tell from this pic but the other pulley is stil sitting underneath:

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/118e35a5.jpg

So this should make the perfect pulley to mount the 36-1 wheel on.

Quick question if anybody knows off the top of their heads, is the keyway in the pulley always pointing up when the #1 cylinder is at TDC? I'd like to think so but I'm not 100% sure... I will double check on my engine this weekend if necessary.

Hazwan
11-13-2009, 02:57 AM
That looks win sir :thumbup:

I had some issues with my distributor last time that it keeps on blowing the igniter or whatever you call that stuff. Replaced with a new one and all works good. Some 3rd party though.

mykwikcoupe
11-13-2009, 08:00 AM
Ive never used the keyway as a timing guide. I never really thought of it that way. Id assume the timing marks with a needle pionter would be way more efficient per degree in comparison to a vertical hash on a crank shaft. Never played with an old 1st gen accord though either. Now Im curious

2ndGenGuy
11-13-2009, 09:31 AM
I'm not using it as a timing guide per-se. More like I need a reference point because I have to mount the trigger wheel on the crank pulley. Without the keyway, there's really no other timing reference, since the trigger wheel has to be mounted with the missing tooth in a certain spot in relation to cylinder 1 TDC. :)

Dr_Snooz
11-13-2009, 09:24 PM
My 3g keyway points up at TDC.

I am so hugely interested in this mod. I too am watching my dizzie with a sense of resignation, knowing it's getting tired and will eventually give up entirely. You're right about there not being any way to fix them either. Even the Beck Arnley rebuilts use the old crank sensor (what a screwball design to have it in the distributor). When those crank sensors start going out, the 3g dizzies are done and we'll have to figure something else out. This could be it.

Please post lots of pics and notes so I can learn.

2ndGenGuy
11-13-2009, 09:55 PM
Hehe no problem, I plan on posting lots of PICS!!! I love PICS!!! :D I am not sure how this will work out for you guys with A/C and power steering. When you have all 3 belts on the crank pulley, I'm not sure how much room you have between the pulley and the frame-rail to fit the trigger wheel. But I'm sure there's a way! :D

2ndGenGuy
11-13-2009, 10:23 PM
Speaking of PICS!!!! Here's some PICS!!!!

I got the crank trigger wheel I ordered (along with the rest of the EDIS setup). But the MJLJ didn't show up. :(

What's sweet is the trigger wheel is the same size as the crank pulley, EXACTLY. So it should make it easy to mount this shit up.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/18850a01.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/2163ef6f.jpg

And I also bought this sweet scale today at Harbor Frieght for weighing my... um... parts... yeah. So I can see how much lighter this set up is. I know it'll make fuckall difference, but I'm curious!! :D

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/e16a2e55.jpg

The new pulley weighs 582 grams. And the trigger wheel weighs 344g. Which is 2.04lbs. That other pulley has got to weigh around 5 lbs. I'll find out when I get the other one off I guess. :)

Civic Accord Honda
11-13-2009, 11:41 PM
John. You sir are a WinRAR. That is all. Have a nice day now.

Hazwan
11-14-2009, 03:26 AM
WinRAR indeed :thumbup:

Speaking of room between the pulleys and the framerail, I've checked mine (lol) and theres bunch of room between them. Not that I'm gonna do this but its good to know :p

And FFFUUUUUUU I forgot to check my rocker panel drain holes -_-

Ichiban
11-14-2009, 09:03 AM
The '76 pulley weighs about 1/3 the weight of the '81. I'm going to pick up a scale tomorrow so I can measure the weight difference, just out of curiosity.


And to scale out bags of BC bud?



Quick question if anybody knows off the top of their heads, is the keyway in the pulley always pointing up when the #1 cylinder is at TDC? I'd like to think so but I'm not 100% sure... I will double check on my engine this weekend if necessary.

Seeing as that key drives the lower timing gear as well, it should have some sort of relation to TDC, I'd imagine.

Dr_Snooz
11-14-2009, 08:48 PM
Hehe no problem, I plan on posting lots of PICS!!! I love PICS!!! :D I am not sure how this will work out for you guys with A/C and power steering. When you have all 3 belts on the crank pulley, I'm not sure how much room you have between the pulley and the frame-rail to fit the trigger wheel. But I'm sure there's a way! :D

Funny you should mention that. I was in the junkyard just today wondering about it. I think the 3g guys doing the conversion are putting the ring gear over the AC pulley. I'm not willing to give up AC, so I have to figure something else out. I'm considering shaving down the PS pump bracket, moving the pump over a bit and driving it off the AC belt and putting the ring gear over the PS pulley. I can't think of anything that would make that not work. I'll keep thinking about it.

Nafs Asdf
11-14-2009, 11:19 PM
Funny you should mention that. I was in the junkyard just today wondering about it. I think the 3g guys doing the conversion are putting the ring gear over the AC pulley. I'm not willing to give up AC, so I have to figure something else out. I'm considering shaving down the PS pump bracket, moving the pump over a bit and driving it off the AC belt and putting the ring gear over the PS pulley. I can't think of anything that would make that not work. I'll keep thinking about it.

Does the PS pulley rotate at the same speed as the crank?

79cord
11-15-2009, 12:07 AM
Great ideas.
A friend was quoted some absurd figures for his B16A distributor....

Had to check; my (basic) '79 hatch has the "lightweight" pulley but the '77 with Dealer fitted Air-Con doesn't, (Part of Air-Con kit {& "LX" spec.} & later standardized?).
& for interest "EL" engined Prelude parts book suggests Hitachi distributor '79-80 (clip-on cap), TEC '81-82 (screw/bolt on cap).

2ndGenGuy
11-15-2009, 12:38 AM
Does the PS pulley rotate at the same speed as the crank?

I think he meant that people are putting the trigger wheel on the Power Steering rib on the crank pulley. You wouldn't want to put the trigger wheel on any accessories at all, because one little slip and there goes your timing. Not to mention, you'd lose the accuracy of the crank-fired ignition due to belt slop.


Great ideas.
A friend was quoted some absurd figures for his B16A distributor....

Had to check; my (basic) '79 hatch has the "lightweight" pulley but the '77 with Dealer fitted Air-Con doesn't, (Part of Air-Con kit {& "LX" spec.} & later standardized?).
& for interest "EL" engined Prelude parts book suggests Hitachi distributor '79-80 (clip-on cap), TEC '81-82 (screw/bolt on cap).

Hmm that's interesting. You know, I've never been asked which distributor I want or need for my car. So I just assumed there was only one. I guess maybe they don't ask when replacing the whole unit. But now that you mention it, I have seen the screw on type and the clip on type. But I assumed maybe one was from an 82/83 EK1 instead of the 79-81 engines... Maybe the Prelude got the TEC a year early.

itzrichie
11-15-2009, 09:42 PM
can't wait to see it finished. Let me know if you want to go to the junkyard again if you need another pulley.

2ndGenGuy
11-15-2009, 10:46 PM
I started making a bracket for the VR sensor tonight, I bought some angle aluminum stock, but by the time I got done the thing was so floppycock that I decided I'm going to make it out of steel instead. That way I can weld it instead of drilling and bolting. And I can actually try doing some real welding. :ugh2: I'd like one of Cygnus' pre-fabbed ones, but I have to mount my sensor on the back of the EK1, and I don't think that it will really fit on my engine.

The next step after the sensor is mounted, will be to actually mount the trigger wheel on the pulley. I'll need the sensor mounted first so that I can mark where the missing tooth goes, which has to be 90 degrees from the sensor when the engine is at TDC.


can't wait to see it finished. Let me know if you want to go to the junkyard again if you need another pulley.

Phó sho. Thanks for your help pulling it. :)

stat1K
11-17-2009, 08:10 AM
host on tinypic so i can see this at work, gosh do i need to tell everyone?!?!

2ndGenGuy
11-17-2009, 09:05 AM
host on tinypic so i can see this at work, gosh do i need to tell everyone?!?!

Your work blocks Photofucket?

stat1K
11-17-2009, 09:24 AM
my work blocks a lot, working at a bank has it's perks and it's downfalls... but it's weird they only know of a few photobucket servers, so when they're hosted on like img42.photobucket.com i can see them, but the others i can't. lame... you could also use one of my friends sites, www.megajesus.com, then it could be your megajesus megasquirt thread :)

2ndGenGuy
11-17-2009, 10:06 AM
Wow the MegaJesus name has got me rofling! HAha!

stat1K
11-17-2009, 01:00 PM
yeah kid's a freakin genius with funny stuff like that... i love it.

2ndGenGuy
11-18-2009, 12:46 AM
So update on the project. I've got my VR sensor bracket built. I did some horrible welding and some decent welding, all of which I ground off and painted over! HA! It looks fairly ghetto, but I'm not a master fabricator yet...

Here's the bracket with the sensor mounted on it... I slotted the holes for some adjustability. Figure I can also put washers behind them to move the whole thing back if I need to.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/ae15c1a7.jpg

Here is it mounted on the back of the block. The sensor is lined up really well with where the trigger wheel will be. I'll have to space the wheel out off the crank pulley so that the sensor doesn't hit the water pump belt, but I think it needs to be spaced out for the sensor anyways...
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/5d04f1f1.jpg

Another pic from a differnt angle...
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/f9e04ab8.jpg

And here it is in paint:
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/24d91a26.jpg

I sprayed it with wrinkle finish just for the hell of it. Might look kinda cool, not like you'll see it really anyways, plus it will hide my terrible work. :)

MessyHonda
11-18-2009, 01:00 AM
looks good...now you can tune it also...sweet set up

2ndGenGuy
11-18-2009, 01:15 AM
looks good...now you can tune it also...sweet set up

Oh yeah, it will be computer tunable now. :-P

The guys at Autosport Labs just told me they had a delay and are sending me an assembled hard rev limiter instead of the kit! And I got notice that my MegaJolt kit shipped out this evening, so I will hopefully get it by Thursday or Friday! :cool:

2oodoor
11-18-2009, 06:04 AM
sweet 2geezmegageezus!

stat1K
11-18-2009, 06:26 AM
and still no hosting on tinypic, i'm dying inside here at work.

2ndGenGuy
11-18-2009, 09:13 AM
and still no hosting on tinypic, i'm dying inside here at work.

You're not missing much. Just some pics of some crappy bent steel. Also, no internet at home or something?

MessyHonda
11-19-2009, 01:17 AM
Oh yeah, it will be computer tunable now. :-P

The guys at Autosport Labs just told me they had a delay and are sending me an assembled hard rev limiter instead of the kit! And I got notice that my MegaJolt kit shipped out this evening, so I will hopefully get it by Thursday or Friday! :cool:

thats cool let them handle it....it will be cool to see it get dyno tuned for max hp out of that engine

Civic Accord Honda
11-19-2009, 10:18 PM
Good stuff John

2ndGenGuy
11-19-2009, 11:24 PM
Well the "ECU" came in finally w00t! So I can start hooking it all up this weekend. Gonna get the trigger wheel mounted hopefully tomorrow night, wire it Saturday and test and tune Sunday! If all goes well that is! w00t! Look how tiny it is, fits in the palm of my hand!

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/24cc9e34.jpg

Civic Accord Honda
11-20-2009, 12:01 AM
HOLY! thats alot smaller then i was expecting....

Dr_Snooz
11-20-2009, 09:05 PM
So amazingly awesome!

2ndGenGuy
11-21-2009, 12:07 AM
So here's tonight's update. I went and spent $100 on electrical shit. I bought 1lb of solder which was probably way more than I'll ever use. But it will be nice to always have it. That was like $25. Bought an adjustable soldering iron base station for $28. 6 spools of different color of wire for different shit like $3.60 each. 10 feet of vacuum line for the MAP sensor for like $5.00. And some shielded 2 conductor wire for the VR sensor and the SAW and PIP signals from the EDIS controller.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/S6302983.jpg

Wired up these goddamn molex connectors. The MJLJ manual says to use 16GA wire for ground. So I just bought it for everything except the shielded wire. Turns out 16 is just barely too big for the molex pins that it comes with. Not only that, but crimping the fuckers is a pain in the ass. So I decided to add a dab of solder to each wire to be sure it wouldn't slip out. My connections look like shit, maybe I'll pick up the actual crimpers tomorrow.

Either way, it seems to connect up good, and looks pretty good when it's done. :)
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/S6302984.jpg

I only wired up the basics for now. When I verify it's all working, I'll be wiring in the rev limiter, the user output switches for my progressive shift light, and probably will be wiring in an ECT sensor so I can correct the timing depending on the engine temp (retard the timing if it overheats, advance it if it's cold).

Civic Accord Honda
11-21-2009, 12:35 AM
yay win

2ndGenGuy
11-21-2009, 12:54 AM
w00t! Hooked up the MegaJolt to my computer, hooked up a 12v power supply! And verified communication! I downloaded the map that was pre-programmed into the computer. Just had to post a pic... Pretty slick shit for under $200. $80 if you build it yourself. Fucking awesome.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/S6302985.jpg

This was the default timing map that came with it. I'm gonna have to surf around (maybe the 1stgencivic forum) see if anybody has put any kind of ignition map to use on an EK1 motor.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/Picture1-10.png

I figure I'll go off of the base timing in the manual and see how things go from there. But what's weird is that the book says to set the timing to 0 degrees. But if you look at the manual for an 82-83 EK1, I believe it's like 14 degrees BTDC. I can't fathom the port layout change between the engines causing the need for 14 degrees of change. Or maybe the 0 degrees that you set the 81 EK1 to is really firing at 14 degrees but 0 degrees for your timing light. Meh! I'll figure out a good map for this thing one way or another...

Civic Accord Honda
11-21-2009, 12:59 AM
Good stuff... idk wtf im looking at tho

Hazwan
11-21-2009, 02:07 AM
Epic win so far! I want that for the sake of playing around with them with the computer!

2ndGenGuy
11-21-2009, 06:42 PM
Started mounting the trigger wheel on the crank pulley tonight.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/4152359d.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/21442240.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/82994415.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/266cdfe8.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/cf21c100.jpg

Turns out I lined up the fucking wheel on the wrong mark. Instead of using my 90 degree mark, I used the mark from the VR sensor that I made to align the whole thing. Fucking pissed, because this came out damn nice. And I know I'm going to fuck up somehow when I try to line up the next 3 holes. ARGH!!!

Dr_Snooz
11-21-2009, 08:43 PM
God how I hate when I screw things up. If it makes you feel any better, I can't tell you how many things I put together during my engine rebuild that I got to take right back apart again because I forgot to put something important in.

You're doing awesome work here man. I love this thread. When I get the Bimmer in better shape, I'll definitely be looking more seriously into this conversion.

labeledsk8r
11-21-2009, 09:41 PM
awsome work man, its comeing out nicely, one question though do you have to get the pully balenced or are you not that concerned about it as its a lower hp motor

2ndGenGuy
11-22-2009, 12:57 AM
Eh, I dunno. That was originally my concern when I first saw the trigger wheel done. I don't think that it's going to be much concern. It's very well centered, and at the most, it could be a couple grams out of balance. I'm thinking that after I get the car running with this, I'll probably get a bubble balancer of some sort and just eat away a little bit of it until its as good as I can do myself. I don't think it's any worse than buying an aftermarket flywheel that's not been balanced after machining. Cygnus has been running his A20 for about 2 years I'd say (IIRC) with his. We will see how bad it really looks once it's on the car. :) Maybe it will take 5000 miles off the life of the motor, I doubt I'll really even notice. The whole thing still weighs less than the stock pulley, which may or may not have been balanced from the factory, probably just cast and machined.

stat1K
11-22-2009, 10:22 AM
i have internet at home, on my phone, and at work, i just do most of my surfing at work lol...

i had a question on your shielded wiring, i was pretty certain that for shielded wire to truly be shielded the shielding itself needed to be grounded?

2ndGenGuy
11-22-2009, 11:14 AM
i have internet at home, on my phone, and at work, i just do most of my surfing at work lol...

i had a question on your shielded wiring, i was pretty certain that for shielded wire to truly be shielded the shielding itself needed to be grounded?

I do a bit of surfing at work as well. :eatarrow:

Yeah, you are supposed to ground the shield to the chassis according to the wiring diagram. I'm not sure how well this is going to hold up, being that the shield is just a foil wrap. But we'll see. I didn't actually know that until I started this project. I figure that's why my shielded RCA cables for my stereo never seemed to do dick, I never grounded them!

Here's the wiring diagram that shows it:

http://www.autosportlabs.net/images/5/59/EDIS_Module_harness.png

stat1K
11-22-2009, 03:36 PM
yeah, typically there are some stranded wires inside that foil rap that you can access and ground accordingly, that's what i did when i rewired the crank sensor in my distributor, i used a ground on the ecu harness (obd0-obd1 locash harness) and attached the few stranded wires to that. seems to work well.

Civic Accord Honda
11-22-2009, 07:12 PM
Whats the difference in shielded wires? i know i was told to use them on my dizzy wiring when i did the mpfi swap on the civic but i just used regular wire lol

2ndGenGuy
11-22-2009, 11:26 PM
Shielded wires will prevent any outside electrical interference. It's usually used on wires that carry a signal, like for distributors or ignition systems that use sensors to tell where the crank/cam are at in their rotation. Power wires can cause interference and distort the signal and cause your timing to not fire properly...

I found the stranded wire inside my shielded wire. When I pulled it out, I was like "oh duh!" So yeah then I just crimped it into a ring terminal.

But anyways, yeah some good updates today.

Here's what I pulled out of the engine bay:

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/MobilePhotoNov222009104058PM.jpg

And how the engine bay looks, a little tidier without it.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/MobilePhotoNov222009104110PM.jpg

Ugh, I don't know why the pics turned out blurry. Sorry they look like shit, I'll get better ones when I get done.

Here's the trigger wheel done, rotated properly, mounted, and the sensor mounted as well, again, this pic sucks:

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/MobilePhotoNov222009104210PM.jpg

Here's the location of my new coil packs.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/MobilePhotoNov222009104136PM.jpg

And the mess of wiring in the engine bay.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/MobilePhotoNov222009104240PM.jpg

Soooo. I finished the Basic wiring tonight. Just wanted to start simple and hook up the minimal needed so I have less things to troubleshoot in case it didn't fire. Well good thing too, because the thing wouldn't fire. The EDIS controller is supposed to go into a "limp home" mode when there is no ECU to tell it what to do. Which fixes the timing to 10 degrees. I left the MegaJolt computer disconnected and it's still not firing. I'm getting no spark at all. The manual says to reverse the polarity of the VR sensor, but I still haven't had any luck after doing that.

The diagram show's pin 7 connected to the shield, but I haven't done that. I thought maybe the diagram was just showing the shield ground connection bypassing the pin. Maybe I'll try hooking that up and see what happens... Hopefully I can get it fired up tomorrow!

2ndGenGuy
11-22-2009, 11:35 PM
Okay I've got my own update already. Looks like the max distance from the trigger wheel to the sensor is 1mm. So I'm going to have to check it, and maybe get the sensor a little closer to the wheel. I bet that's why it's not firing!

Civic Accord Honda
11-23-2009, 01:20 AM
Good luck , hope it something simple and u get it fired up!

2oodoor
11-23-2009, 05:08 AM
Love this thread! just a few cents...
$Reversing poles, on that I have seen various crank sensors start responding after simply unpluging them and reconnecting, sort of "depolarizing" I reckon.

$ Never energize this type system unloaded, or not having a secondary outlet at all. Simple terms, suppose you had a single cylinder motor and during diagnostics you removed the spark plug from the hi tension lead and then left the HTL somewhere it can't reach ground to arc.. then turn the motor with ign primary feed on...no no no it can fry the controller and or ignitor.

$ Make sure you have a fully charged battery and plenty of juice for cranking AND bustin off this ignition or you will be chasing ghosts. You will need a lot of fire to get this thing going the first time since youve likely turned it over a bunch with no bang bang during the process here.:)

markmdz89hatch
11-23-2009, 09:20 AM
I hate you John.

btw... good info on that shielded wiring there. Where can I get shielded wire?

2oodoor
11-23-2009, 12:18 PM
I hate you John.

btw... good info on that shielded wiring there. Where can I get shielded wire?

www.techni-tool.com

local hvac and industrial supply should have it too, like grainger, msc,etc

2ndGenGuy
11-23-2009, 02:24 PM
Love this thread! just a few cents...
$Reversing poles, on that I have seen various crank sensors start responding after simply unpluging them and reconnecting, sort of "depolarizing" I reckon.

$ Never energize this type system unloaded, or not having a secondary outlet at all. Simple terms, suppose you had a single cylinder motor and during diagnostics you removed the spark plug from the hi tension lead and then left the HTL somewhere it can't reach ground to arc.. then turn the motor with ign primary feed on...no no no it can fry the controller and or ignitor.

$ Make sure you have a fully charged battery and plenty of juice for cranking AND bustin off this ignition or you will be chasing ghosts. You will need a lot of fire to get this thing going the first time since youve likely turned it over a bunch with no bang bang during the process here.:)

So I should always have the coils hooked to something so that it fires off? So if I remove all the spark plug wires for some sort of diagnosing and turn over the engine, I could fry the EDIS module?

Thanks for the info, I'll definitely keep it in mind!! :flash:

Oh yeah shielded wire should be purchasable at any real electronics store. I got mine at ERI here in Olympia, best store ever!!! They'll ship to you too.

http://www.eresourcing.com/

Their website fails though. But if you know what you want, you can get pretty much anything from them.

stat1K
11-23-2009, 03:16 PM
ace hardware typically carries some shielded wire, but i've gotten mine at homedepot, sometimes you can only get 4 wire but i just use two of the wires and ignore the other two, or use them for something else ya know?

cygnus x-1
11-28-2009, 07:44 PM
Is it running yet?


C|

2ndGenGuy
11-28-2009, 08:18 PM
No not yet. :( For some reason I'm only getting 1.2 volts AC across pins 5 and 6 on the EDIS module (the VR sensor pins). I was getting 0.9 volts AC earlier, but bumped the sensor a bit closer to get the 1.2. It still won't fire though, and I'm wondering if it's not the steel mounting bracket I made for it causing some magnetic interference... I don't know if I can get the sensor any closer to the trigger wheel or not. After looking a little harder, I did notice some runout (like I figured would have happened after redrilling), but it still doesn't look like more than 1mm. I think I might just need to start from scratch on the trigger wheel mounting at this point... grr.

cygnus x-1
11-29-2009, 10:40 AM
No not yet. :( For some reason I'm only getting 1.2 volts AC across pins 5 and 6 on the EDIS module (the VR sensor pins). I was getting 0.9 volts AC earlier, but bumped the sensor a bit closer to get the 1.2. It still won't fire though, and I'm wondering if it's not the steel mounting bracket I made for it causing some magnetic interference... I don't know if I can get the sensor any closer to the trigger wheel or not. After looking a little harder, I did notice some runout (like I figured would have happened after redrilling), but it still doesn't look like more than 1mm. I think I might just need to start from scratch on the trigger wheel mounting at this point... grr.


That voltage sounds too low. Are you measuring that with a meter or a scope? A meter probably won't give a very useful reading due to the pulsed nature of the signal that the VR sensor puts out. Also, are you measuring with the sensor connected to the module or just the sensor itself? Almost sounds like you might have a bad sensor.

The steel bracket should be fine. I used a steel bracket on mine initially and it worked without issue.

Any chance you can get some video of the pulley and sensor while you're cranking it over? As long as the VR sensor is producing a strong enough signal it should at least fire. A lot of runout would make it run ragged but it should still run.

Another possibility is that you have a bad module. They're pretty rugged but failures do happen.


C|

2ndGenGuy
11-29-2009, 01:24 PM
That voltage sounds too low. Are you measuring that with a meter or a scope? A meter probably won't give a very useful reading due to the pulsed nature of the signal that the VR sensor puts out. Also, are you measuring with the sensor connected to the module or just the sensor itself? Almost sounds like you might have a bad sensor.

The steel bracket should be fine. I used a steel bracket on mine initially and it worked without issue.

Any chance you can get some video of the pulley and sensor while you're cranking it over? As long as the VR sensor is producing a strong enough signal it should at least fire. A lot of runout would make it run ragged but it should still run.

Another possibility is that you have a bad module. They're pretty rugged but failures do happen.


C|

I'm just using a cheap $3.00 Harbor Freight multimeter, measuring with the sensor connected to the module. I haven't tried it without the sensor connected yet, I wasn't sure the sensor would even generate any kind of signal at all without something sort of powering it. The Vehicle Installation Guide on the MegaJolt site says that a meter should should read 2.5v.

I might be able to borrow a scope from work, but I'm not sure the one we have will do what I need, nor do I have a clue how to use it. I'll get some video of the wheel here in a bit.

The module does seem like it might be bad. I'm thinking about hitting the yard today and picking up another one just to see...

2ndGenGuy
11-29-2009, 01:48 PM
Well never mind, I'm an idiot. I was using the timing light to check for spark. Apparently it wasn't picking up. I pulled the spark plug to make sure and it fires... durrrr! So now I gotta get the car to start, which means I need to trick the fuel pump into turning on when cranking.

cygnus x-1
11-29-2009, 02:28 PM
Well never mind, I'm an idiot. I was using the timing light to check for spark. Apparently it wasn't picking up. I pulled the spark plug to make sure and it fires... durrrr! So now I gotta get the car to start, which means I need to trick the fuel pump into turning on when cranking.


Ahh, that's good there's a spark! Some timing lights don't work right with wasted spark setups. The older "fixed" type lights tend to work better than the newer "dial back" ones that have the variable delay.

For the fuel pump relay you need to use the diode circuit described on the Megajolt installation page:

http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_vehicle_installation_guide

There is also one addition to that circuit that you will probably need. You need to connect a 10k (anywhere from 2k to 50k would probably work) resistor from the tach/FPR line to ground. We found that on the 2g 'ludes the diodes by themselves don't reliably trigger the FPR. It might work ok for just the tach but it tends to be sporadic.


C|

2ndGenGuy
11-29-2009, 02:54 PM
Is it better to use that diode circuit as opposed to using the RPM out on the MJLJ? Also, I just read that pin 11 on the EDIS is a Clean / Clear Tach Out. This one won't work? Or is it just more reliable to use the negative off the coils?

Hazwan
11-29-2009, 03:05 PM
OMG I cant wait to see it done!!

cygnus x-1
11-29-2009, 04:45 PM
Is it better to use that diode circuit as opposed to using the RPM out on the MJLJ? Also, I just read that pin 11 on the EDIS is a Clean / Clear Tach Out. This one won't work? Or is it just more reliable to use the negative off the coils?


You can try those but they probably won't work. I seem to remember trying the EDIS tach out and it didn't do anything.

C|

2ndGenGuy
11-29-2009, 05:32 PM
Well the tach out on the EDIS does run my tachometer just fine. I used a little starting fluid and the car fired right up!! :D But it won't fire the fuel pump. :( I'm going to just bypass the relay for now, since I can't get any diodes tonight. Do you have a picture by chance of how you set up those diodes? Did you put them on a little board in a box or just heat shrink around the diode and put them inline with the wire?

2ndGenGuy
11-29-2009, 08:09 PM
Well, I bypassed the relay and put in a switch for now, man it's awesome! It's so weird to see it running without the distributor on there! It's just in limp home mode for now. Runs a little rough because it's cold, but seems to clear up a bit after warming up. Probably going to add in the GM thermosensor eventually. Thanks for all the help and input! Here's a video of the engine running!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQdK--uMrY4

2ndGenGuy
11-29-2009, 10:30 PM
w00t! Got the MegaJolt stuff working too! The default ignition map works pretty good for piddling around in the garage. I played with the configuration app for a while just to see how it works. Pretty sweet stuff. Once the car warmed up, it idled SO smooth! The engine was so quiet too. I had no idea how loud that distributor was. Just goes to show what POSes those AutoZone rebuilds really were. Here's a video of the MJLJ in action!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1E8jsiFdFc

Catalyst
11-29-2009, 11:46 PM
Wow! Awesome! I am impressed!

Civic Accord Honda
11-30-2009, 12:04 AM
FTW!!! and that car sounds/runs smoother then mine and its 10 years older :O

A20A1
11-30-2009, 01:08 AM
Awesome work there.

stat1K
11-30-2009, 08:34 AM
i'll have to check htis out on my phone right now and report back my findings :)

markmdz89hatch
11-30-2009, 08:47 AM
well shit if that doesn't make me REALLY jealous. Damn you John. ...and congrats on the install and getting it running.

stat1K
11-30-2009, 08:49 AM
watched it, looks good.

87roach
11-30-2009, 10:49 AM
Hey man, congrats on getting it running.. didn't take too much time! The little beast sounds great too, now comes the tuning part?

2ndGenGuy
11-30-2009, 02:16 PM
Thanks guys! Yeah, after I redo all the wiring, and make a mounting bracket for the coil packs, then I'll take it for a spin and give it a tune. I might install the hard rev limiter first though since it will require me to rewire the coil power back to the MegaJolt unit.

markmdz89hatch
11-30-2009, 02:22 PM
you should re-wire that MJLJ into a USPS box and ship it my way.

stat1K
11-30-2009, 03:07 PM
lol

cygnus x-1
11-30-2009, 03:52 PM
Well the tach out on the EDIS does run my tachometer just fine. I used a little starting fluid and the car fired right up!! :D But it won't fire the fuel pump. :( I'm going to just bypass the relay for now, since I can't get any diodes tonight. Do you have a picture by chance of how you set up those diodes? Did you put them on a little board in a box or just heat shrink around the diode and put them inline with the wire?


You can put them on a board but it's kinda overkill. I just soldered the diodes together directly will some wire pigtails to connect to the rest of the wiring. Add lots of heat shrink to make sure nothing shorts out and you're good.

Now comes the fun part of figuring out a good timing map. Best way to do that is on a brake dyno, but that will cost some money. I could probably reverse engineer a timing map from the stock distributor if I had one to play with. But then that would only get you to stock, not necessarily the best in terms of power.

C|

2ndGenGuy
11-30-2009, 04:38 PM
Yeah the timing map is going to be the fun part. I sorta understand how to do the timing under load, advance it until I ping and back it off a few degrees. But what about idle and cruise? Do I still want it advanced as much as possible? I was playing with the idle timing last night, and it seemed smooth anywhere from 14 up to like 20 degrees. I didn't really take it any higher than that, as I just was trying to figure out the operation. But do I want to advance idle up like that as well? Or just go with where it runs best? Sorta like running it by ear? The local shop here will rent out an hour of dyno time for $80 with a sniffer and let me use it as I please. So I can do as much street testing as I can and then hit the dyno and try to squeeze out a bit more.

Ichiban
11-30-2009, 05:18 PM
That's the coolest thing I've ever seen.

Dr_Snooz
11-30-2009, 08:19 PM
So awesome John! Your engine sounds sooooo good.

stat1K
12-01-2009, 09:48 AM
as for the tuning it's really difficult to explain how to street tune, i know a guy that does them really well, obviously better with a dyno, but if you have access to the dyno i'd just work out a map while on it, for 80 bucks it's worth the money in my opinion.

Importordomestic
12-01-2009, 02:24 PM
as for the tuning it's really difficult to explain how to street tune, i know a guy that does them really well, obviously better with a dyno, but if you have access to the dyno i'd just work out a map while on it, for 80 bucks it's worth the money in my opinion.

+1 - its easier to see the tq on a load bareing dyno than by seat of the pants. Get the idle really good then tune WOT after that work on part throttle and cruise.

I tune my idle for best "tip in" throttle response. on a complete efi engine. For a carb i add timeing until it gets hard to crank when the engine is hot, then i back off ~3 degrees. Your mileage may very, and alot of tuners will tune things differently.

here is a link that should help you with your spark tune -http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Tuning_Manual.htm#sparkmap

P.S. congrats on your car and running with out a dizzy.

Hazwan
12-01-2009, 03:24 PM
That is epic win sir (y)

SZfiftyfour
12-01-2009, 06:37 PM
wow! Awesome! I am impressed!


awesome work there.


well shit if that doesn't make me really jealous. Damn you john. ...and congrats on the install and getting it running.


watched it, looks good.


hey man, congrats on getting it running.. Didn't take too much time! The little beast sounds great too, now comes the tuning part?


you should re-wire that mjlj into a usps box and ship it my way.


that's the coolest thing i've ever seen.


so awesome john! Your engine sounds sooooo good.


that is epic win sir (y)

^^ +9 :thumbup:

stat1K
12-02-2009, 06:21 AM
lol +9 ftw! hahaha

cygnus x-1
12-03-2009, 04:09 PM
Yeah the timing map is going to be the fun part. I sorta understand how to do the timing under load, advance it until I ping and back it off a few degrees. But what about idle and cruise? Do I still want it advanced as much as possible? I was playing with the idle timing last night, and it seemed smooth anywhere from 14 up to like 20 degrees. I didn't really take it any higher than that, as I just was trying to figure out the operation. But do I want to advance idle up like that as well? Or just go with where it runs best? Sorta like running it by ear? The local shop here will rent out an hour of dyno time for $80 with a sniffer and let me use it as I please. So I can do as much street testing as I can and then hit the dyno and try to squeeze out a bit more.


The advance 'till it pings and back off strategy works for some engines but not so much for others. Really the best way is to advance until maximum torque, and then stop. Or stop before then if it starts pinging, but that won't happen unless you have higher compression or REALLY crappy fuel.

I would imagine this engine is similar to the A20 in that it will like lots of advance (because of the not very optimal combustion chamber). Here's a map that pretty close to what I'm running at the moment:


http://bluegreenlabs.com/Prelude/Mods/FIConversion/SparkTable-10-10-2008.jpg



This is sort of a hybrid between an A18 distributor vs. a P75 ECU. The heavy advance between 1500 and 2000RPM makes for really zippy throttle response. Before you start tweaking the timing do make sure that the timing you set in the map matches what the engine is actually doing. If it's off then you can either adjust the sensor mounting location or just include an offset in the map to compensate.


C|

Rendon LX-i
12-03-2009, 06:32 PM
DAMN....John congrats and your ass just came along way from you first joined. YOU gave alot of openings for the 1gees and the guy that did it all was you. COngrats once again and very great work buddy

Mellexx
12-03-2009, 07:00 PM
Wow! Awesome! I am impressed!


Awesome work there.


well shit if that doesn't make me REALLY jealous. Damn you John. ...and congrats on the install and getting it running.


watched it, looks good.


Hey man, congrats on getting it running.. didn't take too much time! The little beast sounds great too, now comes the tuning part?


you should re-wire that MJLJ into a USPS box and ship it my way.


That's the coolest thing I've ever seen.


So awesome John! Your engine sounds sooooo good.


That is epic win sir (y)


^^ +9 :thumbup:

+10 It sounds so nice man full of win :D I also see in the vids you have the 2d dock, with the transparent menubar disabled, running the graphite color scheme along with windows running in a VM. Yes I have problems that I noticed all that :p

Hazwan
12-03-2009, 10:15 PM
+10 It sounds so nice man full of win :D I also see in the vids you have the 2d dock, with the transparent menubar disabled, running the graphite color scheme along with windows running in a VM. Yes I have problems that I noticed all that :p

You sir, needs help :slap:

Rendon LX-i
12-04-2009, 12:13 AM
what did he just say LOL

Mellexx
12-04-2009, 01:23 PM
You sir, needs help :slap:
Says the guy who cleans hidden parts :p


what did he just say LOL
noticing pointless details on the mac and confusing Rendon ftw!

Back to the topic :p this is full of win :D

stat1K
12-04-2009, 02:28 PM
lol ^ don't make him too confused he'll go ghetto on your ass!

Hazwan
12-04-2009, 03:01 PM
Says the guy who cleans hidden parts :p

Back to the topic :p this is full of win :D

Who have ocd with keeping the wheels and tires spotless? And yes keep the spam off here please :lol:

Mellexx
12-04-2009, 03:05 PM
lol ^ don't make him too confused he'll go ghetto on your ass!

haha that sounds pretty fun actually :lol:


Who have ocd with keeping the wheels and tires spotless? And yes keep the spam off here please :lol:

And yep I'm done with the spam, unless someone provokes me :p Hopefully I can get my car soon and start my own spam thread soon :D

Hazwan
12-04-2009, 03:09 PM
And yep I'm done with the spam, unless someone provokes me :p Hopefully I can get my car soon and start my own spam thread soon :D

<spam>

lol keep the spam on Failbook not here and John gonna be pissed when he see over nine thousand replies :rofl:

P/S: get your car soon so I have another thread to spam.

</spam>

Back on topic. Wheres the updates, vids and PICS?!

Rendon LX-i
12-04-2009, 07:02 PM
LOL....Yeah and Stank O i mean stat1k Already knows how i treat my bitchs LOL.


Sorry john. LOL but i had to say some off topic shit. Since Stank is Already talking shit LOL....Just like a women. JUST keeps going and going. Any Melinexx or w/e. You to. I asked what did you say. I didnt ask for a smart ass remark.....Now thats GANGSTAAAA. not ghettoe.....BIG difference haha.


ANywho john you get it tuned yet. I want some WOT pulls bro. BTW your idle is amazing very stable and just purrs like a kitten. Im like .................

2ndGenGuy
12-05-2009, 05:30 PM
I haven't touched it actually. I was hoping to work on it this weekend, but I've had the fucking SWINE FLU since the day after I got the car running. :( I'll get back on it as soon as I get the energy to get moving again! Good news is, I've managed to catch up on every single TV show in existance!

Mellexx
12-05-2009, 07:35 PM
I haven't touched it actually. I was hoping to work on it this weekend, but I've had the fucking SWINE FLU since the day after I got the car running. :( I'll get back on it as soon as I get the energy to get moving again! Good news is, I've managed to catch up on every single TV show in existance!

Ew that sucks man, hope you start feeling better soon. Get us some new pics when you do feel better :D

Rendon LX-i
12-07-2009, 06:24 PM
o man i know how that feels bro. Get well. Lots of soup

cygnus x-1
12-07-2009, 08:27 PM
I haven't touched it actually. I was hoping to work on it this weekend, but I've had the fucking SWINE FLU since the day after I got the car running. :( I'll get back on it as soon as I get the energy to get moving again! Good news is, I've managed to catch up on every single TV show in existance!


My advice to you is to start drinking heavily. :beer: It kills the pain. :rofl:

Earlier this year I had some mutant strain of mad-bird-swine-cow-flu-disease. I've never taken so much Tylenol in my life.

C|

kentwat
12-09-2009, 06:58 AM
Get well soon. Stay in hibernation until its gone. My wife had it and she looked bad. Hope you get well soon. Great conversion and the video proves it runs sweet. Congrats and get well. Kent

Dr_Snooz
01-10-2010, 09:01 PM
Hey John, any updates here?

MessyHonda
01-16-2010, 07:36 PM
yeah how is it running? i want to see dyno vids

Rendon LX-i
01-16-2010, 08:04 PM
ripper vids NAOOOW

2ndGenGuy
01-16-2010, 10:56 PM
First weekend I've had free. And actually I spent all day today running errands. After I attempt to weld up the supports on my garage door, and package up my 78 Accord interior in boxes, I might get a chance to finish the wiring on this thing... I haven't even driven it with the EDIS installed... sigh. :(

Rendon LX-i
01-17-2010, 08:24 PM
really....i taught you where already driving her

AccordB20A
01-18-2010, 01:26 AM
yeah sucks having no time ay turk

2ndGenGuy
01-26-2010, 11:53 AM
Okay so I spent the whole weekend in the garage. Finally got a free weekend to work on the car! Redid all the wiring, cut to proper length, soldered all the wiring, heat shrinked it, crimped it, loomed it, taped it, wired in relays, and fuses, drew out diagrams with color codes, drilled new holes in the firewall, properly grommeted them. For my first big wiring job, it came out pretty decent. Some parts of the loom were a bit shorter than I had hoped. They aren't tight, but I just had to route them a bit differently. It's not as clean as I had hoped, but eventually, I'm going to integrate it into the factory harness anyways...

Wound up mis-wiring it the second time and reversed a bunch of shit, so I had to diagnose that, with a dying battery. Wound up recharging it a couple times, sucking down more time...

Took it out for it's first drive. Ran like a champion! I was amazed how much smoother the car ran down the freeway. Acceleration is smooth, the car is quieter with out a POS distributor making horrible noises. The base timing map that comes in the MJLJ computer is pretty good. I'm just going to have to figure out more how to fine tune it. I got my idle timing set right, but I think I can add some more timing while cruising down the freeway.

I also found a couple weaknesses. First of all, I think using nylon spacers on the trigger wheel was a bad idea. Too soft, and I think it softens with the heat. So my trigger wheel bolts started backing out and the trigger wheel got a bit loose. So I tightened them back up and drove it home. Time to work on a new solution tonight.

Also, my distributor blockoff plate leaks. Going to seal it with some RTV. I was hoping the original O-ring would work, but I guess it doesn't.

And since everybody loves PICS!! here's just some pics of the mess I made while doing the wiring. I'll take some pics of the harness completed tonight. I still need to get a plug wire organizer as well. They're just kinda hanging out looking ugly.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/fb1a06b6.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/5bb9c8f5.jpg

Hazwan
01-26-2010, 01:16 PM
Need moar PICS!

Civic Accord Honda
01-26-2010, 04:21 PM
+1 captain

markmdz89hatch
01-26-2010, 07:34 PM
Gerber makes a great pocket knife, eh? ...and what's with the roach clips? Someone needing a little mellowing out with all the stresses of the wiring?

:dunno:

BTW: Pepsi > Coke

Dr_Snooz
01-26-2010, 08:21 PM
Okay so I spent the whole weekend in the garage. Finally got a free weekend to work on the car! Redid all the wiring, cut to proper length, soldered all the wiring, heat shrinked it, crimped it, loomed it, taped it, wired in relays, and fuses, drew out diagrams with color codes, drilled new holes in the firewall, properly grommeted them. For my first big wiring job, it came out pretty decent. Some parts of the loom were a bit shorter than I had hoped. They aren't tight, but I just had to route them a bit differently. It's not as clean as I had hoped, but eventually, I'm going to integrate it into the factory harness anyways...

Wound up mis-wiring it the second time and reversed a bunch of shit, so I had to diagnose that, with a dying battery. Wound up recharging it a couple times, sucking down more time...

Took it out for it's first drive. Ran like a champion! I was amazed how much smoother the car ran down the freeway. Acceleration is smooth, the car is quieter with out a POS distributor making horrible noises. The base timing map that comes in the MJLJ computer is pretty good. I'm just going to have to figure out more how to fine tune it. I got my idle timing set right, but I think I can add some more timing while cruising down the freeway.

I also found a couple weaknesses. First of all, I think using nylon spacers on the trigger wheel was a bad idea. Too soft, and I think it softens with the heat. So my trigger wheel bolts started backing out and the trigger wheel got a bit loose. So I tightened them back up and drove it home. Time to work on a new solution tonight.

Also, my distributor blockoff plate leaks. Going to seal it with some RTV. I was hoping the original O-ring would work, but I guess it doesn't.

And since everybody loves PICS!! here's just some pics of the mess I made while doing the wiring. I'll take some pics of the harness completed tonight. I still need to get a plug wire organizer as well. They're just kinda hanging out looking ugly.


Looking like the start of a great how-to thread sir. Glad to see it's all beauty-like again. Hooray for EDIS!!!

2ndGenGuy
01-27-2010, 12:43 AM
LOL Roach clips? What do you see that looks like roach clips? Hahaha!

2oodoor
01-27-2010, 09:10 AM
LOL Roach clips? What do you see that looks like roach clips? Hahaha!

hemostats on strut tower :eatarrow:
glad you are feelling better dude..

2ndGenGuy
01-27-2010, 10:56 AM
Oh those. Haha. I was holding wires with those while I was soldering. :bong:

Thanks roodoo. I'm glad to be back in business again. :)

2ndGenGuy
02-26-2010, 01:45 PM
UPDATE!!!

Got my new pulley setup from the machine shop! OMG SWEET!!

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/49173d0a.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/3a11f107.jpg

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/0ba7092b.jpg

Hazwan
02-26-2010, 01:48 PM
Man that looks pretty!!!

87roach
02-26-2010, 03:26 PM
Work looks tight on that piece!

Dr_Snooz
02-26-2010, 04:00 PM
Looking good. Were you having issues with the one you had earlier?

mkymonkey
02-26-2010, 04:18 PM
this is rather interesting.

markmdz89hatch
02-26-2010, 04:55 PM
did I tell you I hate you John? If not... I hate you! There... ...I said it.

Copy cat!
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm178/mark_mdz/MJ/IMG_0702.jpg

gtmst3
02-27-2010, 04:49 AM
hey mark that looks strangely familiar lol

87roach
02-27-2010, 08:08 AM
Yay it lives!

2ndGenGuy
02-27-2010, 12:25 PM
Yay it lives!

Not yet. :( The pulley key fell into the gravel in my driveway and disappeared. :( :( I'm going to Honda today to see if they have any. :Owned:

AccordB20A
02-27-2010, 12:53 PM
^^ fuck thats gay when that happens, i remember making one out of a nail once for my old a20's cam haha

87roach
02-27-2010, 02:01 PM
My comment was actually for Mark, but that really sucks about the key.. I can see your driveway now and just thinking to myself.. crap haha. You are probably better off just buying another one..

Civic Accord Honda
02-27-2010, 07:44 PM
^^ fuck thats gay when that happens, i remember making one out of a nail once for my old a20's cam haha

haha nails ftw!! i lost the pin that holds my vss gear in the casing so i cut a nail the same size and used it haha

Pico
02-27-2010, 07:48 PM
The pulley key fell into the gravel in my driveway and disappeared.

That happened to me when I was installing frantik's adj.cam gear, the key fell behind the timing cover.
Luckily my buddy Doug was there and made one up with a thick heavy washer and dremel.
We had no choice since it was a weeknight around 9pm

Dr_Snooz
02-27-2010, 08:27 PM
That happened to me when I was installing frantik's adj.cam gear, the key fell behind the timing cover.
Luckily my buddy Doug was there and made one up with a thick heavy washer and dremel.
We had no choice since it was a weeknight around 9pm

Isn't that always when things go wrong?

87roach
02-27-2010, 09:11 PM
Hey John, do you have a big magnet? If you have an extra speaker or sub or something you can run it over the area and maybe it will pick it up? Just an idea, I don't know if the key is magnetic or not.. I assume.

2ndGenGuy
01-15-2011, 11:50 PM
Right, so looks like it's been almost a year since any update on this. Not very good. Well, since the headgasket blew again, I decided to do a total rebuild of the engine again, got the transmission rebuilt, blah blah so it's my daily driver again.

Anyways, I decided to do a little work on the distributor housing, because my old solution to block off the distributor wasn't working too well to prevent oil leaks... In fact, it had left a nice coat of oil all over my engine bay.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/IMG_1716.jpg

I had another distributor / thermostat housing hanging out, and decided to do a little custom work to it. I had a friend of mine weld the hole up where the distributor used to go, and I cut off the flange for the adjustment bolt. Ground it all down nice and smooth, looks pretty mint.

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/IMG_1718.jpg

Here it is installed. Looks cleaner too.
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h256/jgturk/IMG_1721.jpg

Hazwan
01-16-2011, 03:28 AM
OMG its been that long o:

Dr_Snooz
01-16-2011, 07:51 AM
Looking good! Much less ghetto than the last one.

87roach
01-16-2011, 08:06 AM
Much less! haha. Good work man.

itzdave
01-16-2011, 11:33 AM
cant wait to start this project on my hatch!

2ndGenGuy
01-16-2011, 02:31 PM
LOL. Well I know the square plate looked ghetto, I was going to shape it to match the housing, but wanted to make sure it was going to be okay first. Glad I didn't waste my time, because it leaked like a sieve. :)

MessyHonda
01-17-2011, 12:43 AM
so going to rebuild it again? do you think you can order some ARP studs this time?

A18A
01-17-2011, 01:05 AM
that looks oem, you could probably fool someone into thinking the car never had a dizzy from factory lol

2oodoor
01-17-2011, 05:31 AM
brilliant and slexy 2ndGG, very nice!

2ndGenGuy
01-17-2011, 09:59 AM
so going to rebuild it again? do you think you can order some ARP studs this time?

Nah, I just finished rebuilding it, and I did put the ARP studs in this time. :) So far, so good!


that looks oem, you could probably fool someone into thinking the car never had a dizzy from factory lol

Thanks, that's what I was going for. :)


brilliant and slexy 2ndGG, very nice!

Thank you, sir!

stat1K
03-13-2011, 08:42 AM
bump for winter almost being gone!

hondalude86
07-17-2011, 07:50 AM
any more updates? or advice? hahaha

Four3Sierra
07-31-2011, 10:27 AM
anything new?

2ndGenGuy
07-31-2011, 11:17 AM
Oh yeah. Well let's see. I finished the engine rebuild a long time ago. The megajolt is super reliable. I haven't had a single problem with it. Car runs about 4000x. Better. Taken it on some road trips, driven it all over, take it camping all the time. Starts up quickly every time. Runs super smooth. Next project will probably be to set up the cold idle advance so that the idle doesn't dip when it's cold. But it was worth the work and worth every penny. Also yeah I put in some ARP head studs so hopefully the gasket won't blow again. :)

fmn716
07-31-2011, 01:46 PM
The more I hear of this I really want to go with megajolt thanks man awesome !!!

itzdave
07-31-2011, 07:00 PM
i love megajolt, haha.

89T
02-11-2012, 06:58 PM
any more updates? or advice? hahaha

This!

Hows the car been running?

JSmythe
11-13-2014, 10:39 PM
Been researching this today and found this video of a test bench.

http://youtu.be/-5tnBOTcsXk
I.E. you can run an EDIS4 ignition without a megajolt and get 8 degrees advanced timing. Megajolt is only for timing. ...and some cool relay tricks.


also found this video: 924s With 1993 Ford Escourt EDIS Ignition Controled By Megajolt Lite Jr V4 - YouTube (http://youtu.be/-sDNVjqg4cM)
not worth watching but some interesting points

"I installed a new trigger wheel and a modified sensor. The wiring is basicly complete. I found a couple problems in the wiring (loose conections to teh VR sensor) as well as I upgraded the triger wheel to 3/8" thickness (from 1/4") as well as increesing the diamiter of teh wheel that resulted in larger teeth. The bottom line is a much impreved signal to the EDIS especially at higher RPM's. This ting now goes like a run away train. It very mcuh remiondes me of driving a RX7 rotory where the power just keep building and building there is no fall off around 5500 as there is with the stock ignition."

"Sorry to here you are having trouble. I have had it on the car now for more then 100K miles with out issue. A couple things to understand. Megajolt does not make or cause the spark to be week or strong. It does not generate the spark. It only allows you to adjust the timing of the spark. You have an issue with either grounding or the wiring to the coil/ edis unit. Don't bash Brent for this he has no control over that. Try unplugging the megajolt you should have the same week spark."


Lastly...a thought. What if the trigger wheel was on the old distributor. Gear driven and i could control timing. no pulley slip. in the first video, the sensor is on the side of the wheel instead of facing the edge. Just a thought for a $70 solution.(to start)

JSmythe
11-18-2014, 06:26 PM
aparently, it's been done. Since the Cam gear idles at 1/2 the pace of the crank, it has to be a 72-2. I.E. a 72 tooth gear, missing 2 teeth 180˚ apart. Then you have to offset 45˚ instead of 90˚.

Pretty sure, i am going to try this.

79cord
11-18-2014, 09:35 PM
I'm not sure if it would provide much advantage if the distributor is still controlling/advancing/retarding the ignition timing as required, & needs good bearings to do so as their most worrying wear area. '79& on Accords already having electronic ignition to replace points & reduce spark wear in the distributor.

89T
02-25-2015, 04:32 PM
Nm