Intake manifolds

[Rendon LX-i]

IM just woundering what other manifold are out there. I know blox or stock or a victor.

I really want to keep my Dc bar on and a stock or a blox is really high thus having to remove the strut bar. I really want a vic but what other manifolds are almost the same design that are low runners as the victor. And maybe a cut on price.... A victor is 370 shipped.

Those who have a Victor is it worth it? does it perform as said and with boost. What are the flaws or deflaws...

I know it clears the bar..and you have to get a torque shock and make a bracket which is nothing i cant do.

what do you guys recomend me to go with......


Josh Rendon

[ghettogeddy]

Skunk2

[Sh4d0w]

http://www.racingworks.com/skunk2_intake_manifold.htm Theres a link to the Skunk2's - which one would we buy for the A20A3, as its not listed?

-=-

looks like the B18A, if I'm not mistaken from my searching...

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38437

-=-

If that is the one, then would we need this as well? Found on the skunk2 site:

"First Gen B16a / B18a Engines will require the Use of a Late Model or Aftermarket Fuel Rail and Fuel Regulator. "

Would we need that for the A20A3 as well?

[89T]

Skunk2
X2, but i think you will lose the strut bar.


http://www.racingworks.com/skunk2_intake_manifold.htm Theres a link to the Skunk2's - which one would we buy for the A20A3, as its not listed?

-=-

looks like the B18A, if I'm not mistaken from my searching...

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38437

-=-

If that is the one, then would we need this as well? Found on the skunk2 site:

"First Gen B16a / B18a Engines will require the Use of a Late Model or Aftermarket Fuel Rail and Fuel Regulator. "

Would we need that for the A20A3 as well?

you should upgrade the rail and regulator while you are there, if you choose not to, you'll need a stock b18 rail and FPR and throttle body. The bolt pattern of the throttle body on the a20 is different than the b series.

seeing that you'll have to purchase all those extra's anyway you might as well buy them once and be done with it.

[AccordEpicenter]

aebs typhoon>*

[Rendon LX-i]

K thanks....Well iknow i would have to buy .tb,rail.injectors and such. Because the stock shit wont cut it.....or even switch over...if i want 300 out of my build not going to work with the 450 LOL. MIGHT but im going RC

[dacantu]

great thread. ill stay posted becase i need this info also

[89T]

hmm, this is the only one i found.
http://www.aebsracing.com/products/intake-manifolds

link to typhoon......pls.

[MessyHonda]

i think my bar would clear if i had like a half inch spacer on both sides. i run the b16 mani on both my cars.

[Sh4d0w]

So, as I am easily confused, let me try to make this as clear as possible, and feel free to correct me.

A new Intake Manifold will give me A: More low-end torque, less top end | B: Less low-end, put more pull up top | C: Both (that would pwn)

For this, I will need the manifold, fuel rail, injectors, and what is this FPR that 89T mentioned? Fuel pressure regulator? That's the only thing I can think of offhand.

Is there anything else? And since the manifold is for the B16, is this where I should look for aftermarket FPR, rail, & injectors? Any suggestions (based on experience, preferably)?


K thanks....Well iknow i would have to buy .tb,rail.injectors and such. Because the stock shit wont cut it.....or even switch over...if i want 300 out of my build not going to work with the 450 LOL. MIGHT but im going RC

What do you mean by "if i want 300 out of my build not going to work with the 450 LOL. MIGHT but im going RC"

What is RC? Not sure what the rest ment either... pardon my ignorence...

[Nio]

So, as I am easily confused, let me try to make this as clear as possible, and feel free to correct me.

A new Intake Manifold will give me A: More low-end torque, less top end | B: Less low-end, put more pull up top | C: Both (that would pwn)

For this, I will need the manifold, fuel rail, injectors, and what is this FPR that 89T mentioned? Fuel pressure regulator? That's the only thing I can think of offhand.

Is there anything else? And since the manifold is for the B16, is this where I should look for aftermarket FPR, rail, & injectors? Any suggestions (based on experience, preferably)?

Same goes for me.

[MessyHonda]

i do no recomend a intake manifold on a stock engine....i have stage 2 cam and headers with a b16 manifold...so far i have good torque but its loud because i have a 68mm tb and a filter on the end...you will need obd1 swap because the stock computer does not like the no EGR....i have the check engine light because of it

[Rendon LX-i]

So, as I am easily confused, let me try to make this as clear as possible, and feel free to correct me.

A new Intake Manifold will give me A: More low-end torque, less top end | B: Less low-end, put more pull up top | C: Both (that would pwn)

For this, I will need the manifold, fuel rail, injectors, and what is this FPR that 89T mentioned? Fuel pressure regulator? That's the only thing I can think of offhand.

Is there anything else? And since the manifold is for the B16, is this where I should look for aftermarket FPR, rail, & injectors? Any suggestions (based on experience, preferably)?



What do you mean by "if i want 300 out of my build not going to work with the 450 LOL. MIGHT but im going RC"

What is RC? Not sure what the rest ment either... pardon my ignorence...

RC injector....or ID or bosch......Injector Dynamics. THIS IS FOR MY NEW BUILD lol...not for my stock motor now....OR i might go with ID1000. These are recommended by my tuner.


i do no recomend a intake manifold on a stock engine....i have stage 2 cam and headers with a b16 manifold...so far i have good torque but its loud because i have a 68mm tb and a filter on the end...you will need obd1 swap because the stock computer does not like the no EGR....i have the check engine light because of it


BRO this is for my new build..not the stock motor in now..or semi stock. im buying new parts next months. Thats why im saying....umm if i need to make a plate then it shouldnt be a problem....

Thats why im going obd1 next month. I might just slap on the stock b17 manifold on for now...so i have some what a better flow. Should change my power band completey

[89T]

So, as I am easily confused, let me try to make this as clear as possible, and feel free to correct me.

A new Intake Manifold will give me A: More low-end torque, less top end | B: Less low-end, put more pull up top | C: Both (that would pwn)

For this, I will need the manifold, fuel rail, injectors, and what is this FPR that 89T mentioned? Fuel pressure regulator? That's the only thing I can think of offhand.

Is there anything else? And since the manifold is for the B16, is this where I should look for aftermarket FPR, rail, & injectors? Any suggestions (based on experience, preferably)?



What do you mean by "if i want 300 out of my build not going to work with the 450 LOL. MIGHT but im going RC"

What is RC? Not sure what the rest ment either... pardon my ignorence...
B if n/a C if turbo'ed
fuel pressure regulator
map sensor (ask messy how he has his set up)
iat sensor (again ask messy how he has his)
450cc dsm injectors (remember that Mr.Rendon's car is turbo'ed)
"Rc" injectors name brand.

so, if you buy a b16 manifold you need b16 parts for it.

[Rendon LX-i]

Well im just going to get the victor there 375 shipped. Since there not made anymore might as while take it well its there....then get me a 74mm tb. and a stock rail. it wouldnt really matter. As long as i have the right injectors them im good

89T thanks helping me out. and letting shadow understand. MY avater saids BOOSTED lol.....but its all good.

Im pumped. I just want power...and just want to be one of the few on the forum pushing 300+. If anything ill go with the aebs. Looks like a nice unit.

[89T]

ohh my god , 74mm TB!

You may have some idling issues with that big of a TB, not to mention slow throttle response. For the hp goal you stated, even if i add 200hp more it would be a over kill.
For instance my tuner is running a 2.0L gsr with a T4 turbo(not sure which one) at 30psi on e85 on 1600cc injectors and a 70mm TB making 650+ hp.

I'd probably recommend between a 68mm or a 70mm Tb for sure.
It's up to you. It's your car and i am in for the out come either way..

After a quick search yesterday there is no skunk2 vs aebs comparison but there was a victor vs aebs and the aebs seemed to make 5-10 more hp.
the aebs vs gsr which the skunk is supposedly a clone of . the abes makes about 5 hp more.
The problem i have with that comparison is that i don't think skunk would just clone a manifold with out making some improvements.

AccordEpicenter may be able to add more due to him running the aebs and him doing more research between the manifolds.

[Sh4d0w]

B if n/a C if turbo'ed
fuel pressure regulator
map sensor (ask messy how he has his set up)
iat sensor (again ask messy how he has his)
450cc dsm injectors (remember that Mr.Rendon's car is turbo'ed)
"Rc" injectors name brand.

so, if you buy a b16 manifold you need b16 parts for it.

ok, roger that. So this may be a bit off topic, but... What can I do to stay NA and increase low end torque on the a20a3?


ohh my god , 74mm TB!


For instance my tuner is running a 2.0L gsr with a T4 turbo(not sure which one) at 30psi on e85 on 1600cc injectors and a 70mm TB making 650+ hp.

What car is this?

[89T]

this one.
http://www.serviontuning.com/miscellaneous/2009partout/IMG_0058.JPG

hmm I just realized he is running a victor.
sorry for whoring up the thread.

[Sh4d0w]

:jaw:

[Rendon LX-i]

ohh my god , 74mm TB!

You may have some idling issues with that big of a TB, not to mention slow throttle response. For the hp goal you stated, even if i add 200hp more it would be a over kill.
For instance my tuner is running a 2.0L gsr with a T4 turbo(not sure which one) at 30psi on e85 on 1600cc injectors and a 70mm TB making 650+ hp.

I'd probably recommend between a 68mm or a 70mm Tb for sure.
It's up to you. It's your car and i am in for the out come either way..

After a quick search yesterday there is no skunk2 vs aebs comparison but there was a victor vs aebs and the aebs seemed to make 5-10 more hp.
the aebs vs gsr which the skunk is supposedly a clone of . the abes makes about 5 hp more.
The problem i have with that comparison is that i don't think skunk would just clone a manifold with out making some improvements.

AccordEpicenter may be able to add more due to him running the aebs and him doing more research between the manifolds.

well good thing you threw that out. since i am getting a HX40 there for needing more air volume.


this one.
http://www.serviontuning.com/miscellaneous/2009partout/IMG_0058.JPG

hmm I just realized he is running a victor.
sorry for whoring up the thread.


My tuner persuaded me to going with 450+. Afterall it is going to be a built block just on stock sleeves.

Does anyone know the tb opening size of the victor x. I'll just get whatever fits best without having to port. Reason I said 74mm was because my tuner sells them and I'm getting one for a maaad discount. He also sells a 70mm tb and he can bore out any oem tb so its no big deal.

Also, throttle reponse is usually better with a bigger tb. It will sort of bog afterwards tho hahah....SO all in all i think this well all come to play guys.

Its going to happen...Alot of money but its going to happen.

[89T]

Super nice turbo, what are you guy's expecting for hp?

[Rendon LX-i]

Will we dont know yet till the motor is up and running but easly 400 no doubt. I just need to have someone make me a clutch to hold up. After seening guyabuya or how you spell his name he was slipping right a 287tq 300+hp....so i need to find me a clutch.....


hes doing all my head work. block work exc. he was looking at my block said O cast iron LOL....hes like where going to see some big numbers here if your willing to spend the money...so its time.

[89T]

in for details if you are upto it.

[Rendon LX-i]

were going to try to get into that range. but 300 is a starting goal. Im just seening what manifolds can withstand such air flow exc.

What your pushing bro?

i mean your buildt,tuned. and your at what range?

Rule of thumb i say is bigger plenum and shorter runners such as a victor x well gain good power. With boost is better for the fact beening the Flow of volume the victor provides.

I need to ask my tuner some more questions.

Ill give the details forsure....AN yes im up to it. I might take me a few years but might as well. I need to redo my engine bay anyways. Thats why im buyin a Daily Driver so i wont rush the process. Because if you rush it then you buy crappy parts seals...trying to go around the bush then when you pushing it hard your like O man idk if this is going to hold or that part is going to take the abuse of such power haha.

[AccordEpicenter]

i have an itr tb, anything 70mm or bigger is just mega huge and simply not a bottleneck when it comes to a boosted setup, i would stick to somthing that size or less for driveability reasons etc.

http://www.eraceparts.com/category1a9b.html

here a link for aebs typhoon intake mani's for sale. Worlds cheaper than a victor X with very similar performance with better driveability (maintain good tq out of boost) , plus fitment is better (no dogbone mount mods needed). You can thank me later


As for clutch, Clutchnet dual diaphram clutches will hold, esp with a 4 or 6 puck disk. Well worth the money, custom made.

[Rendon LX-i]

UMM....I LOVE YOU HAHA...jk but thanks man thats all i need. looks very similar. ANd the w/o the dog bone mod is a plus

MY i ask where your new vids of your new setup...im dying here.

[Rendon LX-i]

Just to make sure....It can be a b18/b16 any b series except the gsr upside down mani correct?....Thats a whole lot cheaper 174 shipped...jesus

[Tdurr]

damn that is mad cheap... might try and get one of those during the summer then lol.

[89T]

Mine is not all that 234/224 at 13.8 psi but that was with a log manifold and stock cam. I didn't want to turn it up anymore than i had it with out head studs.
I' got the studs and I am ordering the cam and springs soon.
I am undecided on the cam though 1.2 or the 2.4. I dont drive it often so i may go with the 2.4..
I am waiting for a reply from the tuner on the Neptune rtp/demon. I have a email and call into peak boost for a replacement compressor wheel for the 62-1.

[89T]

mine is from a b18a

[Rendon LX-i]

Umm....let me know what you go with. B18a. sounds good ill use that to get what i need

[AccordEpicenter]

no vids of the new setup but it is nearly completed. If you do some searching, you can prolly find better prices then that place. Id just use a B16a/B18c5 version

[Rendon LX-i]

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r84/DOHCschwab/AEBS%20Products/DSC00196.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r84/DOHCschwab/AEBS%20Products/DSC00197.jpg

Very sexy Manifold for a cheap price.....QUESTION what did you guys do to block off the IACV ports on the left on the 2nd pic....since you dont use coolant?

[AccordEpicenter]

i just ran the iacv with no coolant. wont hurt it

[JohnBoy]

a little off topic but is the dog bone the top engine brace or the rear engine mount?

[cygnus x-1]

a little off topic but is the dog bone the top engine brace or the rear engine mount?


The dog bone is the torque mount by the throttle body that braces the engine to the firewall. The engine side bracket for it does tie into the rear motor mount bracket though.


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[JohnBoy]

so if i took that out and just used a aftermarket dampener would do pertty much the same thing, i don't think it will move much with the diy pholy mounts.

[cygnus x-1]

so if i took that out and just used a aftermarket dampener would do pertty much the same thing, i don't think it will move much with the diy pholy mounts.


That dog bone thing is huge and annoying for sure. But I wouldn't get rid of it completely. Even with filled stock mounts I think the engine would still twist a lot without the torque bar. Some day I plan to replace mine with a heim joint type link and a smaller engine side bracket. Being a solid connection it will transmit more vibration to the chassis but should reduce much of the twisting motion that the stock dog bone allows.


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[JohnBoy]

no i'm not talking about removing one completely. more in the lines of a ingals or weapon r torque damper?

[cygnus x-1]

no i'm not talking about removing one completely. more in the lines of a ingals or weapon r torque damper?


I don't think you want anything in there that isn't basically a solid connection. ANY movement at all will translate directly into engine movement so the more solid it is the better. The rubber bushings are just there to minimize transfer of vibration.


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[JohnBoy]

alright then i should just fab up a smaller one that dosen't take up as much space thanks

[JohnBoy]

i like the hiem joint idea woulld you be doing it from fire wall to motor mount with a single bar or or in more of a triagluar style with two points on the motor mount to two diff points on the fire wall?

[cygnus x-1]

i like the hiem joint idea woulld you be doing it from fire wall to motor mount with a single bar or or in more of a triagluar style with two points on the motor mount to two diff points on the fire wall?


The single point on the firewall I think is ok since it's pretty well supported. The engine side I think would need a 2 point bracket. A single point might be alright if there was solid mount point that high on the engine, but there isn't.


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[JohnBoy]

you were talking about a side braket would you connect it like they do with after market dampners? with a braket from the shock mount to the motor mount?

[cygnus x-1]

you were talking about a side braket would you connect it like they do with after market dampners? with a braket from the shock mount to the motor mount?


Not sure I understand exactly what you mean. Basically what I was talking about is replacing the dog bone and the huge bracket that connects it to the engine, with something smaller/lighter/less crappy. A simple heim link could replace the dog bone. But I'm not exactly sure what to replace the giant bracket with.

Here's a picture. I want to replace all of 6-12, and 15-19.


http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa/images/illustration/33/674242.png




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[JohnBoy]

i was thinking a hiem joint set up like this

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/6610/nengun150800jsracingeng.jpg
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/5651/nengun159700mandmhondae.jpg

[cygnus x-1]

i was thinking a hiem joint set up like this

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/6610/nengun150800jsracingeng.jpg
http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/5651/nengun159700mandmhondae.jpg


Yeah, that's pretty much the idea. I think I want a solid link though instead of a damper. I suppose if the damper was really stiff and had almost no travel it might be ok.

Oh wait, you're talking about the actual location of the thing? Ok, no I wouldn't put it on the side of the engine like that. I don't think that would really work with our setup. I would put the new one in the stock location, just make it more streamlined with less slop than the factory piece.


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[JohnBoy]

alright that would look slick once i get the motor back in i'll fab something up that will work

[JohnBoy]

what i was thinking is make a bracket out of 4340 that looked like #12 and run a hiem joint braket on it. then cut the stock mount off the firewall and make a 3 bolt pattern braket on the firewall (kind of like a chevy motor mount) but but small for the rod end but i dont know?

[mykwikcoupe]

Ive got the victor x and it looks so pretty under the hood its a must do. granted you lose the dogbone if you keep the 70m tb but its all worth it. you wont be disapionted rendon. Anything bigger will definatly give you idle issues. not enough air to sample. The victor is super easy to setup.

[Rendon LX-i]

For sure. The damper kit seemed to work well for guyabakjdf;lajdlj i cant spell his name right but you know who that is. BUT he was having alot of engine movement at higher hp range. Yet he was pusshing 300+ and had the civic NGR damper kit. made a braket and wala....look it up. damper kit how to or w/e

[JohnBoy]

mykwikcoupe do you have any torque support on the motor?

[Ichiban]

what i was thinking is make a bracket out of 4340 that looked like #12 and run a hiem joint braket on it. then cut the stock mount off the firewall and make a 3 bolt pattern braket on the firewall (kind of like a chevy motor mount) but but small for the rod end but i dont know?

Why the hell 4340? So it can be super expensive, near impossible to machine, detrimentally effected by welding, and have inferior fatigue resistance to mild 1018 steel plate? Because it fucking sounds cool?

:stupid:

Okay fine, do it. 'Cause 4340 sounds so much cooler. If anyone will even sell it to you.

Besides, that giant stupid bracket serves two purposes:

1) The leverage allows relatively soft rubber bushings to control engine movement to a fine degree.

2) The relatively soft rubber bushings allow minimal vibration transmission to the chassis, while still controlling engine movement.

But why would you want these features?

Oh, and the correct term is DAMPING, unless you are making something wet. That's "dampening". Yes, making something "damp".

[Rendon LX-i]

I got a front solid motor mount it took out 90 percent of my ROcking in my bay and helped a shit load on traction. I yet need to fill my motor mounts. BUT i would do all the wacking high end crap for such a simple thing to correct. Start by filling your motor mounts. Looks up damper kit on the search. o look i take a few minutes out of my time and show you.

brb

K im back took me like 40 secs tops. IM going to do this. looks effective and simple.

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54956&highlight=ngr+damper+kit

[mykwikcoupe]

no torque rod just a nice set of front and rear mounts. i cant say for movement since the last 4 years Ive pushed my car further then its been driven. Back and forth in the garage. Rendon if you get your b series done before mine Im goona go postal on you. Totally postal. Im gonna bring you my car and make you paint it for the punishment. What did you have in mind so far

[Rendon LX-i]

on the hatch. I already got my hands on a c5 but i might sell it and get a complete swap which i can get more out of the c5 easliy. Its complete minus tranny. Paided 350 for IT. BUT i want a LSD tranny so im sure i can sell it enought for a good complete swap. BUt i dont know yet Lol. TO me its easyer to put a b series in a 3gee and cheaper. reason i say that i dumped idk how much on my boosted 3geez and i yet finished it BUT im not going to end there. thats my boosted project. I just want a GOOD pound for a buck N/a cant go wrong on a B series i can get a b16 for cheaper. I got to a bit more looking around for Better deals. IM super stoked thou. Driving my old EF hatch with the b16 fuck. just ripping threw them gears bro. SO light.

BTW the hatch feels great. So solid it dont bend around like my sedan does. Lucky my sedan is intended for straight purposes only LMFAO. the hatch is solid as hell. Think just hugs the roads. Yet i cant forget that the coupes/hatchs had a better build subframe then the sedans them selfs. Even with these cheapies feels fucking alsome.

[JohnBoy]

I got a front solid motor mount it took out 90 percent of my ROcking in my bay and helped a shit load on traction. I yet need to fill my motor mounts. BUT i would do all the wacking high end crap for such a simple thing to correct. Start by filling your motor mounts. Looks up damper kit on the search. o look i take a few minutes out of my time and show you.

brb

K im back took me like 40 secs tops. IM going to do this. looks effective and simple.

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54956&highlight=ngr+damper+kit

why so hastial? i'm looking for something less bulky that looks clean. a damper look's nice but you said your self that guy you know get's a lot of movment out of his motor with high horse's. so something more restrictive would be better. and ichiban yes i can get the 4340 for cheap.

[Rendon LX-i]

no it holds dont get me wrong but he had all the mounts stock. now he has a solid front motor mount like i have so it can different now. SO im pretty sure its holding to its capicety.

[JohnBoy]

no it holds dont get me wrong but he had all the mounts stock. now he has a solid front motor mount like i have so it can different now. SO im pretty sure its holding to its capicety.

otay is your front a soild cross member(that is what i was thinking of doing) ou did you just make a soild mount? plus you have a ram horn to. Right?

[89T]

otay is your front a soild cross member(that is what i was thinking of doing) ou did you just make a soild mount? plus you have a ram horn to. Right?

what do you want to know? I am sooo lost,.
It's not totally solid but it is as close as you can get.

Mr. Rendons front mount will hold way more than most can throw at it.

If mine holds what i have planed he'll never need another one. LOL!

my bad, stock cross member with a custom mount.

[JohnBoy]

ya i was just wondering if it was a custom cross member with a soild welded on motor mount like the one that was up for sale. or stock cross member with a bolted on soild mount. sorry guys i'm dislexic so i get a head of my self when i write.

[89T]

I feel you, I am a bit A.D.D.
I have to stay busy and focused.. lol!

[mykwikcoupe]

I thought i was the only one whose brain worked faster then the body. If you get a chance get a guy like us really worked and thinking about 3-4 really puzzling things at a time and start looking in his eyes. I cant say for yours but mine move a mile a minute. Its like they are in a blkender or something not even connected inside. Drives the wife nuts and the friends think its sweet. Ive learened to close my eyes to think.

[89T]

my problem is i shut everything out when i think...The wife hates it i tell you.

[JohnBoy]

i feel ya both. when i talk to people end up having to show them what i'm talking about more so being able to just tell them. damnit i hate it i tell you. lol by the way nice fender's what brand did you go with?

[cygnus x-1]

Why the hell 4340? So it can be super expensive, near impossible to machine, detrimentally effected by welding, and have inferior fatigue resistance to mild 1018 steel plate? Because it fucking sounds cool?

:stupid:

Okay fine, do it. 'Cause 4340 sounds so much cooler. If anyone will even sell it to you.


Wow. Try decaf? :flash:

Yeah, I wouldn't use 4340 either unless I had some scrap just laying around. Any mild steel will be plenty good. I would even use aluminum plate.



Besides, that giant stupid bracket serves two purposes:

1) The leverage allows relatively soft rubber bushings to control engine movement to a fine degree.

2) The relatively soft rubber bushings allow minimal vibration transmission to the chassis, while still controlling engine movement.

But why would you want these features?


Actually I'm not saying you wouldn't. I just think there ought to be a more elegant way to get the job done.





I got a front solid motor mount it took out 90 percent of my ROcking in my bay and helped a shit load on traction. I yet need to fill my motor mounts. BUT i would do all the wacking high end crap for such a simple thing to correct. Start by filling your motor mounts. Looks up damper kit on the search. o look i take a few minutes out of my time and show you.

brb

K im back took me like 40 secs tops. IM going to do this. looks effective and simple.

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54956&highlight=ngr+damper+kit


Oh damn. I just got owned by the search police. :Owned2:
That's a great thread. Seems like it's kind of in the wrong section though. I never read that section so I never saw it. Maybe I should start.
Good stuff though. Makes me think I should put the effort into better motor mounts and just dump the torque rod altogether.
Hmm. I think I might even have an idea.




i feel ya both. when i talk to people end up having to show them what i'm talking about more so being able to just tell them. damnit i hate it i tell you. lol by the way nice fender's what brand did you go with?


People that build things often find it easier to work with pictures and physical objects than words. I used to have to write a lot for work so I got fairly good at it. But I still find it far easier to see and feel what I'm working on.


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[Ichiban]

Wow. Try decaf? :flash:

Yeah, I wouldn't use 4340 either unless I had some scrap just laying around. Any mild steel will be plenty good. I would even use aluminum plate.

Actually I'm not saying you wouldn't. I just think there ought to be a more elegant way to get the job done.

Oh damn. I just got owned by the search police. :Owned2:
That's a great thread. Seems like it's kind of in the wrong section though. I never read that section so I never saw it. Maybe I should start.
Good stuff though. Makes me think I should put the effort into better motor mounts and just dump the torque rod altogether.
Hmm. I think I might even have an idea.


People that build things often find it easier to work with pictures and physical objects than words. I used to have to write a lot for work so I got fairly good at it. But I still find it far easier to see and feel what I'm working on.


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Yeah I was pretty wound. I got stuck machining EN30B all weekend, which cuts similar to 4340, and it wasn't good. When I saw that post, I kinda went over the edge a little....But still, why go to the cost and effort when more suitable material can be cut out of the side of any dumpster?

Anyways, thinking about the motor mounts, the 3g's mount design is actually kind of stupid. The torque bar does a great job of controlling motion, but if the other mounts were built better, it wouldn't even need to be there. What the hell is the purpose of that rubber thing on the longitudinal crossmember under the transmission?

What I was thinking was if it would be effective to replace the dogbone with an additional mount off of the end of the tranny, a la B-series. The drivers top mount already should control the engine twisting on it's axis to a certain degree, and if you tie the other end in to the chassis (somewhat off-center would help to control motion best), you should be able to eliminate that thing altogether.

I like drawing and showing/seeing things physically as well. Usually when someone (manager or foreman) babbles off a bunch of directions and dimensions, I just glare at them until they go print off a drawing. I can talk fairly well, just can't listen for shit.