Heater blower motor fuse

[Oldblueaccord]

Anyone ever notice the heater blower is fused thru the igntion switch for like 40 amps,#22 fuse under the hood?

Mine quit and looking at the power wires they got toasty I guess. I forgot that I needed to look at these when I reidid my gaskets in around the blower housing last spring.

I bought an inline fuse holder and I think when I replace the wires I am going to put in a 10 amp fuse as well. The motor seems to pull about 8 amps and full speed which is why I don't understand the 40 amp fuse idea. I dont think the wires are even 10 guage.

wp

[Oldblueaccord]

I started with a 10 amp fuses but it blew after a day. Not sure why the motor ran a good 30 minutes before it went again. I am up to a 15 amp fuses and thats holding well.

Sadly i knew the wires were bad. I was searching thru my car pictures and found that I had taken a picture of it and just forgot about fixing it. :confused:


wp

[Dr_Snooz]

My '76 liked to melt the ends off the blower motor fuses (barrel type). A new fuse would last about 30 minutes and then poof. It wasn't current, it was resistance and heat. I'm still not sure why, but suspect that the old fuse terminals simply made bad contact and generated enough heat to melt the end off the fuse. I tried replacing the terminal with another old terminal, but it didn't help. I've adopted the habit of squirting dielectric grease into every connector I open. I've heard that it improves the connection and prevents electrical issues on very old cars. It seems that most everything in the car can be kept going for a very, very long time. What will eventually get you is all the wiring problem insanity. I don't know if the grease will work, but can't think of why it wouldn't. The copper will last forever. The insulation will get brittle and make the copper break when moved, but I think if you keep the wires well wrapped with black tape, they will last a lot longer. They only thing left is the resistance at the connections so I'm going with di-electric grease.