starting the car without most of the interior

[newaccorddriver]

im currently in the process of swapping out the main harness, so my entire interior is going to be out of the car for a while. would i be able to start my car without most of the interior stuff plugged back in? i can plug the gauge cluster back in, but thats about as far as i want to go for testing. ill also be plugging in the main things like the atmospheric sensor and the ECU, but i dont see what else it needs to run in the interior

[AccordB20A]

will run with the ecu/efi stuff and thats it, providing the fusebox is all there but nothing else is important

[newaccorddriver]

will run with the ecu/efi stuff and thats it, providing the fusebox is all there but nothing else is important


thats about all i needed to hear, thanks

[newaccorddriver]

well, today i decided i wanted to get my car out of the garage this year. so far ive changed out the cabin harness, and plugged a majority of everything back in place. i cranked her over and its still a no go. i build up relatively good oil pressure, and around 40PSI of fuel pressure. it turns over nicely, but still doesnt want to start up.


im gonna be calling up my friend tomorrow as he has my noid lights for my injectors(just got it the other week), ignition spark tester, and remote crank trigger. pretty much what i need to do the diagnostics on my own.


in addition to my car not starting, im finding quite a few issues with everything within the car itself. the problems are as follows:


only drivers window will go down, no other windows respond at all
when key is in the 'on' position, the ebrake light turns on for some reason
the dash does not light up when i hit the dimmer switch, but the tail lights do(not sure about fronts as they arent hooked up yet)
headlights wont turn on at all
headlights wont retract at all, even when pressing the button for it.
dash says highbeams are on when i try to turn lights on despite no light and wont go out of highbeam mode.
ECU for some odd reason is still flashing code 6 for water temp sensor(?) like a few years ago when i tried to start it.


im sure theres more problems with the car, but its 12:30am, and i dont feel like going down once more to check it out. sometimes i wish i just drove my 86 ex-i to the ground when i did my 5 speed rather then plan for a turbo kit...

if anyone has an idea of why my car wont start, feel free to post up any suggestions as i am sick and tired of seeing this car in the garage. its pretty much sat in there for 5 years, and im tired of seeing a good car go to waste.

[newaccorddriver]

some good news to report. i got rid of code 6, and now code 10 shows up for IAT. better yet, i used the noid lights and my injectors fire up! i guess i got seriously :Owned: when i didnt check them prior to changing out the main harness. now i gotta wait for the fuel pressure to bleed down before i change injector sets. i could loosen the bolt, but i dont feel like letting fuel splash everywhere


who would have thought all 4 injectors were the reason it never started...

[AccordB20A]

what i do is take the dizzy off and turn the ign on and turn the dizzy and see if you an hear the injectors clicking

with your other car fails?? is your brake fluid level low? that will make the e-brake as you call it light come on try unpluging the sensor on the reservoir and see if it shuts up.

with the dash lights is the dimmer box under the dash plugged in? and also the popup lights not going down is the control box AND switch plugged in for them?

I presume you have checked every fuse

[newaccorddriver]

what i do is take the dizzy off and turn the ign on and turn the dizzy and see if you an hear the injectors clicking

with your other car fails?? is your brake fluid level low? that will make the e-brake as you call it light come on try unpluging the sensor on the reservoir and see if it shuts up.

with the dash lights is the dimmer box under the dash plugged in? and also the popup lights not going down is the control box AND switch plugged in for them?

I presume you have checked every fuse


i used noid lights, so when i cranked it with the trigger, all 4 of the injectors were infact getting power(tested all 4 of them). hence why i say all 4 injectors were pooched.

brake fluid is fine, but ill try unplugging the sensor on it to see if it goes away.

the dimmer box is plugged in for the dash, but its possible that i just forgot to ground something.


the button for the poopup lights is plugged in along with the steering wheel switch for the light. if there is another control box for it, then i dont know what im missing cause a few things still arent plugged in.





i find that alot of things are spliced in with each other and have the tendency to not work if something else isnt plugged in, so i might have to plug everything in and see

[1ajs]

you checked ur spark plugs?

the car has sat for 5 yrs? is it the same gas in the tank for the last 5 yrs?

[ecogabriel]

Did you check for spark? First check whether you get spark out of the ignition coil -unplug the wire at the distributor and CAREFULLY (it shocks hard!!) put it close to something metallic while someone else cranks the engine and you should see sparks. Plug it back and do the same with each individual spark plug wire. Then remove the spark plugs and take a hard look at them.
A friend of us had her car dead (86 accord, carbed) and the pep-stooges wanted 700+ bucks to fix it... A trip to NAPA and $6 in new spark plugs later and the car was back. The first 3G I had ever touched ...

[newaccorddriver]

you checked ur spark plugs?

the car has sat for 5 yrs? is it the same gas in the tank for the last 5 yrs?

spark plugs as they are brand new, otherwise i wouldnt have gotten a 3ft fireball shooting out of my exhaust when i accidently coated it in gas.


i believe all i need to get it running is to drain the tank as its been sitting with stale gas since i got it

[1ajs]

spark plugs as they are brand new, otherwise i wouldnt have gotten a 3ft fireball shooting out of my exhaust when i accidently coated it in gas.


i believe all i need to get it running is to drain the tank as its been sitting with stale gas since i got it

yea clean the tank and also clean ur carb boul out!! its going to be full of crap and change ur fuel filters

[newaccorddriver]

just had some alone time with the car today. didnt bother draining the gas tank out as i had nobody to help me do it. and no, im not gonna hold a jerry can and constantly hook up the negative terminal despite how old the gas is, still pretty dangerous if you ask me.



i finally fixed a couple problems, yet another one popped up.


windshield wipers work now, the dimmer switch is now lighting up the dashboard which is good. i believe that is all the progress i was able to get in.


as far as a few remaining problems go, my drivers window is the only one that works. not sure why its like that, but im thinking if just hard wiring in all the damn windows now since changing out the relay in the fusebox didnt work. the interior lights dont work for some reason, not sure if its connected to something else in the harness that isnt plugged in(only HVAC/radio isnt really plugged in). probably heading out to the junkers tomorrow, so might grab another regulator to rule out a problem.

one major problem that has been getting to me for the last while is why my headlights dont work. they dont light up at all, they dont retract at all, and my highbeam light on the dash is constantly on but at a dimmed level unless i turn the lights on, at that time it gets full power. i tried using a different retractor controller, but still doesnt work. i took out the switch altogether, and im gonna be testing it tomorrow when i get some time. i should also note that if i were to connect the ground cable to the battery, sometimes the retractor relays would start buzzing. if i turn the headlights on , they stopp buzzing completely.

i checked out all the fuses, and they are all fine, i even swapped some of them out for the light up fuses, so i can easily tell without looking for a blown fuse. all the major fuses that are screwed in looks good, unless there is a microbreak in it which i cant see. also swapped some of the relays out and rechecked everything, the swapped relays worked in other locations.





also, does anyone know where the major grounding points are located? ive looked at the service manual and it says there are a bunch of grounding points. those are easy to check, but the manual doesnt say there they are other then marking them out by numbers. im confident that i got every single ground, but it doesnt hurt to check, only problem is i dont know where they are located. i got one under the passanger seat, the one under the dash, and i think one under the driver seat, but thats all i can find without going to the engine bay which all are connected.

[1ajs]

you sure your head light balbs are any good?

[newaccorddriver]

you sure your head light balbs are any good?

they are brand new

[charliekuney]

That doesn't necessarily mean they're good. :)

[newaccorddriver]

just had some spare time with the car. i replaced the retractor unit(3rd one i tried), and the window regulator. im making some progress here. the headlights now come on, but for some reason the right side seems to be putting only half output while the left side is good. also, replaced the window regulator, and now my windows work(also 3rd one i tried). who knew i kept getting so many busted up units...


one problem i am running into is that my left headlight keeps moving up and down constantly. might have to try another retractor control unit to see if that fixes the problem. asides from that, just gotta figure out why my interior lights arent working.


might have to see if i need a new combination switch is in order, but it tested out good according to factory manual.