PDA

View Full Version : How hard will the EGR pipe come off?



Bluntman
01-03-2010, 02:43 PM
Went to replace the thermostat, and as usual one of the bolts snapped in the housing. So I pull the distributor, air cleaner piping etc. to get a straight shot at it. So I was able to finally drill through the bolt and figured I will tap it. But I decided to put a extractor in there to remove the bolt, but it broke, and I cannot drill through the hardened steel extractor piece that broke. So my option is to remove the housing which bolts to the head. But the only way to get to the bottom nut is to remove the EGR pipe. I really wanted to avoid this but this looks like I will have to get another housing at the pick your part. But I am worried about a 22 year old EGR pipe trying to break free from the exhaust manifold. Give any insite from those who may have done it. Remove the radiator to make more room to get at the large nut on the exhaust manifold? What size is that large nut? It's an 88 LXi.
http://i19.servimg.com/u/f19/12/59/29/63/thermo10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=693&u=12592963)

nswst8
01-03-2010, 03:07 PM
BP blaster and the good ole torch wrench. Heat up the bolt to the exhaust and spray it wit the PB blaster and let it sit for 20 minutes. Re-apply as needed. It works for me all the time.

Bluntman
01-03-2010, 03:10 PM
BP blaster and the good ole torch wrench. Heat up the bolt to the exhaust and spray it wit the PB blaster and let it sit for 20 minutes. Re-apply as needed. It works for me all the time.

Is there enough room with the radiator in?

Pico
01-03-2010, 03:14 PM
Is there enough room with the radiator in?

there is but it is a tight fit. I used a stubby wrench on mine and a pry bar for leverage to get it loose

Bluntman
01-03-2010, 03:34 PM
there is but it is a tight fit. I used a stubby wrench on mine and a pry bar for leverage to get it loose

You don't happen to remember what size that big EGR bolt is do you?

Pico
01-03-2010, 03:43 PM
You don't happen to remember what size that big EGR bolt is do you?

I didnt have a metric wrench handy at the time, so I used a 15/16th inch stubby wrench.

joebeets
01-04-2010, 03:11 PM
Use a 1" c-clamp to hold the housing together.

Bluntman
01-04-2010, 08:16 PM
Did not have to go the EGR pipe route after all. Got a stubby closed end ratcheting wrench on it, with just enough movement ( click by click ) to free it loose. It may have been worse to get at than the main relay. So now got a few parts coming. But it was no picnic.

Bluntman
01-04-2010, 08:22 PM
Use a 1" c-clamp to hold the housing together.

I appreciate your input, but that is not how I do things. The motor is California rust free and looks good and runs good. Just my daily driver but couldn't do it.

ACE_14
01-04-2010, 09:08 PM
I've replaced the Thermostat housing before, but I don't remember having to remove the EGR tube. I remember removing the Distributer to get better access.

nswst8
01-04-2010, 10:46 PM
Did not have to go the EGR pipe route after all. Got a stubby closed end ratcheting wrench on it, with just enough movement ( click by click ) to free it loose. It may have been worse to get at than the main relay. So now got a few parts coming. But it was no picnic.

Small moves brother, small moves. I've been here before. Congrates on your patience.

Bluntman
01-05-2010, 06:46 AM
Small moves brother, small moves. I've been here before. Congrates on your patience.

Thanks. Over the years of wrenching I have learned patience and thought are a virtue. And to always replace things that may not even be related, but since you have things apart and have access, you may as well take care of business for the preventative aspect of things.

Bluntman
01-05-2010, 11:58 AM
Got a new thermostat housing (old one was a bit corroded inside),thermostat housing cover,gaskets, side hose, thermostat bleed screw,temperature sending unit ( in the housing), Honda OE coolant ( to avoid corrosion), OE ATF-Z1 fluid. All at my price ( I know the parts guy). Then went to Hillco fasteners and got new nuts and bolts. Since Honda Corporation is 30 min. away in Torrance I usually get parts next day. So it is a good day. And the ECT sensor and cooling fan switch are new.:cheers:

Bluntman
01-06-2010, 05:15 PM
All new parts are on. Added Honda ATF-Z1. Now adding all new Honda OEM coolant, and bleeding before initial start up and timing, and letting thermostat open and adding more coolant. ANYWAY THE COOLANT IS A NICE BLUE!:hsugh:

nswst8
01-06-2010, 10:48 PM
Blue! Just trying to be different aye?

Civic Accord Honda
01-07-2010, 01:04 AM
congrats on getting them off!
btw i used a pipe wernch to remove the egr pipe and i had to pull the rad (had no ac condenser )

Dr_Snooz
01-08-2010, 08:59 PM
Blue! Just trying to be different aye?

Pretty much. It's a 5-year coolant, but to keep you from using ordinary 5-year coolant, they made it blue to scare you into buying more of the Honda stuff.

I've tried numerous times to get that pipe off and haven't managed it yet. It's on there really good, what with heat cycling and rust and all. It's compounded by the fact that you can't get a closed end wrench on it. You have to use an open ended wrench and beat like hell on it and hope it doesn't round over. I guess you could use a long handled pipe wrench like CAH, but I can't stand buggering things up.

I had the same problem with the thermostat housing bolts breaking and also replaced the housing at the head. I think I got that lower bolt with just a simple open ended wrench and a lot of patience. Swearing a lot helps.

Glad you got it fixed.

Bluntman
01-08-2010, 09:11 PM
Pretty much. It's a 5-year coolant, but to keep you from using ordinary 5-year coolant, they made it blue to scare you into buying more of the Honda stuff.

I've tried numerous times to get that pipe off and haven't managed it yet. It's on there really good, what with heat cycling and rust and all. It's compounded by the fact that you can't get a closed end wrench on it. You have to use an open ended wrench and beat like hell on it and hope it doesn't round over. I guess you could use a long handled pipe wrench like CAH, but I can't stand buggering things up.

I had the same problem with the thermostat housing bolts breaking and also replaced the housing at the head. I think I got that lower bolt with just a simple open ended wrench and a lot of patience. Swearing a lot helps.

Glad you got it fixed.

Thanks. With a stubby closed end ratcheting wrench with the "flex head", it worked out well. I did not want to mess with a 22 year old EGR pipe if I didn't have to. You never know what will happen.

Sh4d0w
01-08-2010, 10:12 PM
Swearing a lot helps.



That's key to alot of things I've found.

gtmst3
01-09-2010, 05:20 AM
good luck i just had to take mine off it took me an acetylene torch and 2 hours

cygnus x-1
01-09-2010, 08:14 PM
I guess you could use a long handled pipe wrench like CAH, but I can't stand buggering things up.


Strangely, a huge pipe wrench might be the best way to do it. Pipe wrenches have an advantage in that they are self gripping; the harder you push the harder they grip on the pipe/nut/whatever. If you're careful and do it just right you can get it so the pipe wrench bites on the flats of the nut and doesn't hose it up too much. The trick is getting the wrench in there the right way without having to remove everything half of the front end.


C|