More then likely bent my valves

[Nio]

Cause I'm a complete dumbass. >.>

Now I have to take this crap apart and see if I really did.

I was trying to adjust my timing, forgot to mark my belt. And tried to start her up. And now I think I did it wrong....SO YEA!!! now I get to buy more parts this check....oh well. I guess its better to do it now.

Just hope nothing else is wrong.

This has turned into one hell of a day. T_T

[Hauntd ca3]

why were you playing wit tha cam timing?
they are a set and forget thing.
no need to touch it til its time to replace .
if the valve clearances are with in factory tolerance, chances are the valves are fine and you've screwed up the ign timing.
if you have some clearances that are miles out, you prob have bent some valves.
of course that is assuming that the clearances were good to start with

[itzdave]

damn, if i still lived in OK id hook ya up with my other complete head...

[itzdave]

and always turn-over the engine a few complete turns by putting a socket and a breaker bar or long handled ratchet on the crankshaft bolt, then just listen for anything to collide that shouldnt collide...

[Nio]

I didn't hear anything colliding, But she won't start.

I read I should have herd something, But I didn't....But I highly dought I got lucky enough to match my belt right back up...especially since she won't start.

[2ndGenGuy]

^^^ Love your Avatar Dave! ^^^

Everybody keeps telling me the A20 is a non-interference engine. If that's the case, you should have no bent valves from getting the cam timing out. If you did bend some valves, well then that would make the A20 an interference engine.

[Nio]

^^^ Love your Avatar Dave! ^^^

Everybody keeps telling me the A20 is a non-interference engine. If that's the case, you should have no bent valves from getting the cam timing out. If you did bend some valves, well then that would make the A20 an interference engine.

Anyway Besides Ripping the whole thing apart to find out.

also any good way for me to set my timing belt. Since I don't have a replacement I'll be using this one....

[Nio]

Nevermind, I get paid tomorrow night, I'll just pick up a new belt, and do it all over again. if she doesn't start up. Then I guess I bent some valves, Or as Hauntd ca3 said I screwed up the IGN timing.

[Civic Accord Honda]

yep pretty sure you should be fine as I'm 95% positive the a20a is a non interference engine (step dad broke 2 of them and i think lost said he broke 1 at 6000rpm or something like that)

[Nio]

yep pretty sure you should be fine as I'm 95% positive the a20a is a non interference engine (step dad broke 2 of them and i think lost said he broke 1 at 6000rpm or something like that)

Well that's good news....

But I still need to replace the belt So I can get it right....>.< But I don't really want to have to go back threw that hell again. Should be easier though since I know what I'm doing now...

[Hauntd ca3]

if you going to do a belt, do the tensioner and idler at the same time.
am not familiar with cam timing on an a20a but form the manual, there is a tdc mark on the flywheel and a pointer that need to be lined up.
and on the cam wheel there is up stamped on it and a mark on each side of the wheel that line up with the cam cover surface. that will get you to where you need to start.
somewhere here is a link to the factory service manuals that you should download that has all the info you need .
someone stick up a link

[Nio]

Well This is going to have to wait. I've spent the last 7 hours working on the car. and now I'm to damn tired to do anything.....

I'll finish up tomorrow when I pick up the parts...

[Rendon LX-i]

your timing is just way off man. redo your timing belt and should start right up

[Dr_Snooz]

The service manual is here (http://honda.roadpwnage.com/manuals/pages/usdm-accord-1989-full.php). Read it, love it, live it.

When I put my head on (my cylinder head that is, not my head head), the crankshaft moved on me after I torqued the haed and before I got the timing belt or flywheel on. With the head at #1 TDC, I turned the crank several full revolutions without any restrictions. I'm confident these are not interference engines. I agree with Hauntd though, unless your valves were wildly out of adjustment, you're probably fine.

[Nio]

The service manual is here (http://honda.roadpwnage.com/manuals/pages/usdm-accord-1989-full.php). Read it, love it, live it.

When I put my head on (my cylinder head that is, not my head head), the crankshaft moved on me after I torqued the haed and before I got the timing belt or flywheel on. With the head at #1 TDC, I turned the crank several full revolutions without any restrictions. I'm confident these are not interference engines. I agree with Hauntd though, unless your valves were wildly out of adjustment, you're probably fine.

Wow your awesome. :D


Thanks guys.

[lostforawhile]

yep pretty sure you should be fine as i'm 95% positive the a20a is a non interference engine (step dad broke 2 of them and i think lost said he broke 1 at 6000rpm or something like that)

7000, and i kept trying to restart it since I thought it was a failed fuel pump, i forgot if the dizzy isn't turning, the fuel pump won't come on, it's fine. mine is a BS so I don't know if there is that much of a difference

[Bluntman]

Since you are going to have the pulley off, and timing cover off. It may be a good idea to check the front main seal for leakage and replace it, since it is accessable at that time. I always replace things that are already apart so I do not have to do it twice.

[Civic Accord Honda]

yes DO replace the front main seal or your regret it later, its only like $11 anyway

things you should replace
Timing belt
tensener(SP)
cam seal
front main seal
and if you want you can replace the water pump but thats pretty easy to replace without even removing the timing belt so if your low on funds that can wait unless your having problems with it.. (replaced 2 on 3gees without removing timing belt and was not hard at all)

[Nio]

Okay I'm back in the process of removing crap. i have the tire off, the wheel well off, the engine supported, the all belts off but the timing belt *duh* and the belt in this picture. >.> which I can't figure out how to get off.

http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/My%2089%20Honda%20Accord/SSPX0114.jpg

as well how bloody hard am I going to have to work to remove that engine mount?

[nswst8]

THat bolt is the A/C adjusting bolt, the nut just came off. It happened to me.

The mounts are easy to remove (2) 14mm bolts.

[Nio]

NVM I got the engine mount off. :D so now I just need to get that damn belt off...then everything should be pretty smooth.

I used a 3 foot metal beam to help me out here. cause I'm not that built. >.>

@Nwst8 thanks I had been wondering what it was...I just don't know how to get it off..


Everything is so dirty down there. Its hard to find the TDC on the crankshaft.

[Nio]

Got it off. The damn manual doesn't explain it for my car....It had like 2 extra bolts...

But YEA! its done. Now to the next part..

[Nio]

I have the crankshaft bolt out, Now how the heck do I get the pulley out, Its like stuck still. Any helpful tips?

[Dr_Snooz]

I have the crankshaft bolt out, Now how the heck do I get the pulley out, Its like stuck still. Any helpful tips?

Wiggle back and forth. It'll walk right off. If you are going to replace seals while you are in there, replace the oil pump and camshaft seals too. The oil pump seal gets old and hard. Eventually the pump loses pressure and you burn up the engine. Learned that one the hard way. :(

[LewZur]

I have the crankshaft bolt out, Now how the heck do I get the pulley out, Its like stuck still. Any helpful tips?

BFH, Big Fucking Hammer, I used a puller on mine, don't loose the keyway whatever you do.

[Nio]

Well I got it off. :D thanks....

and I got the Guard off as well..But damn its nasty and part of the gasket at the bottom is torn off.

As I pulled off the Little cover for the timing belt pulley. I found dead spiders on it. >.> guess this car had been sitting for 8 years....

Pics for you :D

http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/My%2089%20Honda%20Accord/SSPX0135.jpg

http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/My%2089%20Honda%20Accord/SSPX0134.jpg

http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/My%2089%20Honda%20Accord/SSPX0133.jpg

Spiders :O
http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/My%2089%20Honda%20Accord/SSPX0138.jpg

BTW I'm so risking hurting myself....

http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/My%2089%20Honda%20Accord/SSPX0124.jpg

[Nio]

Anyways. I have everything ready to go...But WHERE THE HELL IS TDC ON THIS!!!!!

The book says look for a white mark...All I have is black and some red..and there wasn't a single damn mark on the pulley itself.

http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/My%2089%20Honda%20Accord/SSPX0143.jpg

[A20A1]

I think the mark is supposed to be on the Flywheel or Converter Side of the engine not on the pulley side.

I also have a thread on adjusting valves
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39319

.
.
.

[Nio]

I think the mark is supposed to be on the Flywheel or Converter Side of the engine not on the pulley side.

I also have a thread on adjusting valves
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39319

.
.
.

I've actually had your thread bookmarked, and have been using it.

Its a whole lot of help...

BTW thanks for the help on the TDC...I'll check it out tomorrow and finish up the work then..

God this has turned into a multiday project...

[Nio]

Got my new timing belt tonight. I'll be putting it in...as much as I hate it I don't have enough for the tensioner this check. But I already have it on order and will be picking it up next check...>.> gona suck taking everything back off but Its better to make sure I get that done soon..

[lostforawhile]

I think the mark is supposed to be on the Flywheel or Converter Side of the engine not on the pulley side.

I also have a thread on adjusting valves
http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39319

.
.
.it's on the flywheel. you have to look through the hole in the bell housing

[Nio]

it's on the flywheel. you have to look through the hole in the bell housing

is that hole on the transmission side?

I've been at work for the past 9 hours so I didn't get to do anything on the car...

[lostforawhile]

is that hole on the transmission side?

I've been at work for the past 9 hours so I didn't get to do anything on the car...

um.....yea

[Nio]

um.....yea

sorry, I've never done this before. So like my first post stated. *complete dumbass*

Sorry if its annoying.

[lostforawhile]

sorry, I've never done this before. So like my first post stated. *complete dumbass*

Sorry if its annoying.

don't worry about it, transmission=bellhousing

[Civic Accord Honda]

your learning man thats all that matters :)

its better to do things and learn and mess up a bunch of times then to pay someone else to mess it up for you ^_^

[Nio]

Well guys again thanks for the help....Never would have gotten this far without you all . =^.^=

BTW I'm so confused. You guys say the engine is more then likely non-interference...yet the manual and several sites say it is? but I when I cranked it I never heard anything wrong....

So do you think the sites and manual put it there just to keep people careful?

[ShyBoyCA6]

your learning man thats all that matters :)

its better to do things and learn and mess up a bunch of times then to pay someone else to mess it up for you ^_^


+ 1 man fuck a mechanic unless hes hooking it up with a good job. well its too bad for me and my car cause it seems i wont be having anytime to work on her and i can only work on her on the weekends cause of work...:banghead: wish i had money to get my shit done already//

but yeah sooner or later you'll be your own mechanic and thats the shit...when i work on my car i at least have 3 beers to stay calm and get it fixed myself

[Civic Accord Honda]

Well guys again thanks for the help....Never would have gotten this far without you all . =^.^=

BTW I'm so confused. You guys say the engine is more then likely non-interference...yet the manual and several sites say it is? but I when I cranked it I never heard anything wrong....

So do you think the sites and manual put it there just to keep people careful?
i honesty dont know why alot of people say it is... like we have all said with our experinces its never had any problems with being interferince im pretty sure yours will be fine .. but it could just be there to get people to spend money to have honda replace it ever so many thousend miles..


+ 1 man fuck a mechanic unless hes hooking it up with a good job. well its too bad for me and my car cause it seems i wont be having anytime to work on her and i can only work on her on the weekends cause of work...:banghead: wish i had money to get my shit done already//

but yeah sooner or later you'll be your own mechanic and thats the shit...when i work on my car i at least have 3 beers to stay calm and get it fixed myself

yes beer is good when working on car! another good thing is if you have a "kicking fender" a kicking fender is a fender on your car thats all ready dented so when you rage you just kick the shit out of it and it doesent matter cause its allready dented LOL

[Importordomestic]

The a20 is a non interferance engine, I have the factory FSM and it completely states that it isnt. I have fixed many 3 g timing belts (probably close to 10) from friends cars all the way down to my personal cars. dont worry you didnt bend valves. put it back in time and you are good to go.

[Importordomestic]

another good thing is if you have a "kicking fender" a kicking fender is a fender on your car thats all ready dented so when you rage you just kick the shit out of it and it doesent matter cause its allready dented LOL

I cant agreee with this behavior..... LOL

[Nio]

Nevermind I found it. :D

[Nio]

Yea its now at TDC....:P I guess I could have just looked at the timing belt pulley, when its notch is straight up its almost dead center.

[Nio]

This piece of shit tensioner is pissing me off.

I try and loosen it to where I can get the belt on and the spring doesn't go back on at all. I try and loosen it with the spring on so I can get the belt on and it doesn't go far enough.

I have ripped my fucking hand open a good 7 times now...WTF is there a easier way to do this bullshit?

[ShyBoyCA6]

I cant agreee with this behavior..... LOL

hey thats CAH thats how he get his shit done lol

[lostforawhile]

This piece of shit tensioner is pissing me off.

I try and loosen it to where I can get the belt on and the spring doesn't go back on at all. I try and loosen it with the spring on so I can get the belt on and it doesn't go far enough.

I have ripped my fucking hand open a good 7 times now...WTF is there a easier way to do this bullshit?
one bolt holds the tensioner, the other is the pivot bolt, you loosen the pivot bolt, push the tensioner out of the way, tighten it, install the belt, put some tension on it, rotate the engine through a couple of rotations, loosen the tensioner bolt, let it tension the belt and retighten the bolt. recheck all your marks.

[Oldblueaccord]

I would get it on there and then start the car before you go thru all the trouble of putting it together. Make sure the motor is running JIC you did bend a valve. Just run it about a min with the crank pully on,you can mess with that other stuff latter if it works out.

Your picture of your crank pully with the key at the 2 o clock pos. to me is TDC but that by memory. Make sure its the correct mark your looking at on the flywheel. Most have a T pn them. you may have to cleanit off and mark it with chalk to see it well.


wp

[Nio]

one bolt holds the tensioner, the other is the pivot bolt, you loosen the pivot bolt, push the tensioner out of the way, tighten it, install the belt, put some tension on it, rotate the engine through a couple of rotations, loosen the tensioner bolt, let it tension the belt and retighten the bolt. recheck all your marks.

There is only 1 bolt. And its the one that holds the tensioner...And then there is this spring that lets it go tighter or looser, I can only get the belt on if I remove the spring. but if I do that and get the belt on. I can't get the spring back on in its place. and in trying to do so I have smash my hand a crap load.

[Nio]

This is what it looks like with the spring on... I can't get the belt on no matter what I do like this, Even with the tensioner loose.

http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/SSPX0157.jpg

But if I take the spring off I can get the belt on, but can't get the spring back on no matter how damn hard I try.
http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/SSPX0159.jpg

[lostforawhile]

push the tensioner pulley over and then tighten the bolt while it's pushed. this will take the tension off while you put the belt on, strange mine has two bolts. It's a BS engine, maby a minor difference?

[Nio]

push the tensioner pulley over and then tighten the bolt while it's pushed. this will take the tension off while you put the belt on, strange mine has two bolts. It's a BS engine, maby a minor difference?

That's the problem, I can't push it over with that spring on....I have tried over and over, I even tried using pliers to pull it over to the notch and it still doesn't work...

>.> this is the reason I have so many cuts on my right hand.

think I need a new spring that moves a little easier or what?

[lostforawhile]

That's the problem, I can't push it over with that spring on....I have tried over and over, I even tried using pliers to pull it over to the notch and it still doesn't work...

>.> this is the reason I have so many cuts on my right hand.

think I need a new spring that moves a little easier or what?

something is wrong, did you loosen the pivot bolt first? it seems like it's still tight, you should be able to push it by hand

[Nio]

something is wrong, did you loosen the pivot bolt first? it seems like it's still tight, you should be able to push it by hand

Well I can push it by hand with ease if that spring in the picture is off.

But when its on I have to use both hands and all of my strength to get it even half way to the point I need it*cause that spring is way hard to move*, and then I can't tighten it, cause both hands are used to hold the spring over.

So I'm now confused as hell.

[lostforawhile]

Well I can push it by hand with ease if that spring in the picture is off.

But when its on I have to use both hands and all of my strength to get it even half way to the point I need it*cause that spring is way hard to move*, and then I can't tighten it, cause both hands are used to hold the spring over.

So I'm now confused as hell.
you need to find a way to push it over and tighten the bolt, then the belt will go on easy

[Bluntman]

I wonder if you can pull the tensioner bolt all the way out, then get the belt on and then try to get the bolt back in the tensioner with the belt on.:dunno: And the belt is in the grooves properly when you are doing this? Man I hope nothing moved with all this. Something seems strange.

[lostforawhile]

I wonder if you can pull the tensioner bolt all the way out, then get the belt on and then try to get the bolt back in the tensioner with the belt on.:dunno: And the belt is in the grooves properly when you are doing this? Man I hope nothing moved with all this. Something seems strange.

he said he can move the tensioner but it takes all his strength, then he can't tighten the bolt while holding it. mine didn't take that much, either something is froze or Nio needs some wheaties. what about a piece of wood to push the pulley over while tightening the bolt?

[Bluntman]

he said he can move the tensioner but it takes all his strength, then he can't tighten the bolt while holding it. mine didn't take that much, either something is froze or Nio needs some wheaties. what about a piece of wood to push the pulley over while tightening the bolt?

You seem to be a good machinist. How about designing a gear drive set up for him. It will slip right in.:)

[Bluntman]

This may sound dumb, but it is the right belt right? Measure it with the old one to make sure it is the correct length.:dunno:

[Nio]

its the right belt i have gotten it on there without the spring. but i cant even move the tensionor far enough with the spring. text from phone

[A20A1]

When I put my belt on, I:

Loosen the Cam Gear Bolt

Align the Cam Gear and Crank/Flywheel to TDC

Install the Timing Belt Over Everything But The Cam Gear

Remove the Cam Gear Without Messing Up TDC Alignment

Install Belt Over Cam Gear

Install Cam Gear With Belt

Check For TDC on Both Cam and Crank

Spin Crank Slowly By Hand Checking For Cam/Crank Alignment

*Don't lose the Cam Gear KEY that sits in the Groove of the Gear and the Camshaft




Another Way But Don't Say I Recommend This.

Remove the Camshaft Bearings... Tilt the Camshaft and Gear... Install the Timing belt... slowly tilt the camshaft back down into place... reinstall the Camshaft Bearings.

[Nio]

When I put my belt on, I:

Loosen the Cam Gear Bolt

Align the Cam Gear and Crank/Flywheel to TDC

Install the Timing Belt Over Everything But The Cam Gear

Remove the Cam Gear Without Messing Up TDC Alignment

Install Belt Over Cam Gear

Install Cam Gear With Belt

Check For TDC on Both Cam and Crank

Spin Crank Slowly By Hand Checking For Cam/Crank Alignment

*Don't lose the Cam Gear KEY that sits in the Groove of the Gear and the Camshaft




Another Way But Don't Say I Recommend This.

Remove the Camshaft Bearings... Tilt the Camshaft and Gear... Install the Timing belt... slowly tilt the camshaft back down into place... reinstall the Camshaft Bearings.

Do I need any special tool to remove the cam gear?

[Nio]

YEA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got it on....>.> a bit weird like but its in.

I had to use both my thumbs, one on the spring and the other on the top lock. Got it on the ridge of the bolt the top lock sits on. and then just tightened the tensioner bolt. And it slide right into place. :D in the process of putting stuff back on to test if I did it right.

[Nio]

Okay belt is on perfect. *atleast by everything thing I have checked. Its TDC on the camgear, and TDC on crank/flywheel.

she is still not starting. I have installed new plugs, and plug wires tonight with it. could it be that the plugs are not in right. to close or to far. would that cause the car to not start.

she did backfire 2 times out of 10 or so cranks..

also would not having my power steering hooked up cause her to not start...cause my locking bolts for that are messed up so I'll be picking up some more tomorrow...

Any ideas guys, If I have to I'll take the timing belt off and re-do everything, Should take me about 3-5 hours the second time I go threw. since I know what I'm doing now.

[Bass Man]

Cylinder 1 is closest to the cam gear. The distributor cap will tell you where to put the wires.

If you had any backfire, then it's gotta be the plug wires, cuz it should only fire while both the valves are closed, wherever the timing may be set.

[Nio]

Cylinder 1 is closest to the cam gear. The distributor cap will tell you where to put the wires.

If you had any backfire, then it's gotta be the plug wires, cuz it should only fire while both the valves are closed, wherever the timing may be set.

Just double checked. The spark plug wires are all correct.

I didn't change my distributor cap or button tonight...so I know its still correct.

Anything else could cause this?

[A20A1]

Did you car have a ground wire to the thermostat housing or thereabouts? I remember on carbed cars unhooking that ground wire led to starting and running trouble. Bad grounds in general can do that too.


Did you check valve lash after you installed the belt?

[Nio]

Did you car have a ground wire to the thermostat housing or thereabouts? I remember on carbed cars unhooking that ground wire led to starting and running trouble. Bad grounds in general can do that too.


Did you check valve lash after you installed the belt?

Would I need to check that. I didn't mess with any of it, and she ran a couple days ago.

But I still need to know if having the spark plugs themselfs to far in our out would stop her from starting.

Also no ground wires were disconnected..

So I'm still a bit confused.

[Hauntd ca3]

the leads maybe in the right place , but is the rotor pointing to number one when its meant to be?
have seen that cock up many times.
set the motor up tdc number 1 and take the cap off and make sure its pointing where number 1 would be if the cap were on.
it may sound silly, but its easy to do, especially if you've replaced the leads

[Nio]

Okay I'll give it a try in a few minutes

[Nio]

I just checked it, Its right. But the bottom bolt on the cap is broken. So I will more then likely have to buy a new distributor soon. Have a feeling that was broken when I bought her...

okay. Now I have a big question.. I ran threw the whole flywheel when I did line up the TDC

the only marks I found was something like this.

http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/89%20accord%20How%20To/FlywheelTDC.png

There was no T anywhere, just this 15 and the two bars.. >.> actually I didn't notice there was 2 lines till just now when I went back out and re-checked everything...so I might actually not be set right. But how I have the picture is exactly how I have mine set.

[ecogabriel]

Wiggle back and forth. It'll walk right off. If you are going to replace seals while you are in there, replace the oil pump and camshaft seals too. The oil pump seal gets old and hard. Eventually the pump loses pressure and you burn up the engine. Learned that one the hard way. :(

:thumbup:
The pulley fits tightly around the crankshaft; try what Snooz says -I got mine out that way. Replace as many seals as possible since you are in there

[ecogabriel]

I just checked it, Its right. But the bottom bolt on the cap is broken. So I will more then likely have to buy a new distributor soon. Have a feeling that was broken when I bought her...

okay. Now I have a big question.. I ran threw the whole flywheel when I did line up the TDC

the only marks I found was something like this.

http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/89%20accord%20How%20To/FlywheelTDC.png

There was no T anywhere, just this 15 and the two bars.. >.> actually I didn't notice there was 2 lines till just now when I went back out and re-checked everything...so I might actually not be set right. But how I have the picture is exactly how I have mine set.

There should be a T mark somewhere nearby the "15" mark; that is your TDC. #1 and #4 will be at top dead center when the pointer matches the T mark. At TDC the valves in #1 are both closed

If the timing belt is set with that mark... you may have some issues like I had; engine would idle irregularly and die after a few minutes, and it would not rev beyond 5K... I dunno who was the bonehead that used that mark in my car...
Anyway, turn the crankshaft SLOWLY and there should be a T mark not too far away from those two marks

[ecogabriel]

On second thought, I remember reading a thread sometime ago.
Someone bought a new flywheel that did not have the marks for TDC or 15 degrees.

One way to get TDC without the mark would be removing the spark plugs and turning the crankshaft until the top of the piston can be seen through the spark plug hole; with a little back-and-forth turning one may have the piston at close enough TDC even without the mark. Of course, the valves for #1 should be both closed

Probably the difficulty in cranking is too much spark advance. If the distributor was adjusted at 15 degrees before TDC, now it would be adjusted at 30 degrees (15 degrees plus the 15 degrees that the camshaft is advanced now if you used the 15 degree mark)

Hope it helps, or that someone would correct me with a closer answer

[lostforawhile]

On second thought, I remember reading a thread sometime ago.
Someone bought a new flywheel that did not have the marks for TDC or 15 degrees.

One way to get TDC without the mark would be removing the spark plugs and turning the crankshaft until the top of the piston can be seen through the spark plug hole; with a little back-and-forth turning one may have the piston at close enough TDC even without the mark. Of course, the valves for #1 should be both closed

Probably the difficulty in cranking is too much spark advance. If the distributor was adjusted at 15 degrees before TDC, now it would be adjusted at 30 degrees (15 degrees plus the 15 degrees that the camshaft is advanced now if you used the 15 degree mark)

Hope it helps, or that someone would correct me with a closer answer

this one sounds like a beater he bought, 99 percent chance it has the factory flywheel

[ecogabriel]

this one sounds like a beater he bought, 99 percent chance it has the factory flywheel

If so then the "T" (TDC) mark should be there, right?

[Oldblueaccord]

Also there are 2 TDC centers. One on the compression and one one the exhaust stroke on a 4 cycle motor. of course you want to be on compression side.

Check your compression again.

Also you may have to move the distributor a little to get it to fire the timing might be way off. The rotor should just,just be over the #1 post in the distributor cap at TDC if you take it off and look.

I think you put the belt on then get the tensioner bolt started. I don't think it goes on easy with the bolt holding the tensioner. My problem is the hanger that holds the spring slips off the tab on the block.

wp

[Nio]

i get off at 8 so ill give the flywheel another run threw. if i cant find it ill try the piston idea.

[Oldblueaccord]

On compression (power) stroke both valves will be closed.

On the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve will be open.

Good luck with it!


wp

[OldSkoolA20accord]

if the valves are bent and you dont want to rebuild it i will sell you a complete head minus dizzy and manifolds for $60 bucks plus shipping.

[lostforawhile]

if the valves are bent and you dont want to rebuild it i will sell you a complete head minus dizzy and manifolds for $60 bucks plus shipping.
if you still have that head next month i might buy it what would shipping be?> cheapest? i need to rebuild one anyway and it would let me finish the carb mock up stuff.

[Nio]

if the valves are bent and you dont want to rebuild it i will sell you a complete head minus dizzy and manifolds for $60 bucks plus shipping.

Well I'm broke right now. But I hope I really didn't bend them, cause if I did I'm screwed for a little while.

I was also way to tired to work on the car. I have worked on her for 3 or so days now in 10+ hour shifts on her....

past 2 nights I was up till 5am working on her..

[Dr_Snooz]

Your valves are fine. If you can't find the T on the flywheel, set the engine to what you believe to be TDC. In this position, the key on your crankshaft pulley should be pointing straight up (they do this to make it easier to keep the key in the slot when you are doing the timing belt). That should be very easy to see. If it is right, then take the valve cover off and try to move all the rocker arms on the #1 cylinder. You should be able to slide them laterally on the pivot shaft. If both these are right, then you are good. At least, good enough that you should be able to start.

If you got that right, but still can't start, then you you need to do a standard no start troubleshooting procedure. Check fuel, check fire and check air.

[Nio]

http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/89%20accord%20How%20To/SSPX0176.jpg

Found this today while google searching.

It seems that the TDC is close to what I have but, now where would I put the bloody thing, On the top mark, bottom mark, or right in the middle.

[Nio]

Nevermind guys.

I took my LED flashlight out to take a look at the flywheel.
there is a damn almost invisible line in between the to lines and the 15.

So I now found my timing mark...so I'm off by like 1-3 teeth.

I'll fix it real fast and see if she works.


*Edit I was wrong again. I found the T mark*

[Nio]

BIG BIG BIG Thanks going out to everyone who helped me out threw this hellish week.

I have gotten her running shes a little rough. But I can figure that out in a little while.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWMUWUQVagk
Video for your pleasure. :D

But sadly by distributor cap locking screws broke when I was taking out the plug wires. So its kinda rigged in there with plumber putty untill tomorrow when I can go pick up some gasket seal until I can get a new distributor.
http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/My%2089%20Honda%20Accord/SSPX0181.jpg

Again big thanks going out guys. :D

[ecogabriel]

BIG BIG BIG Thanks going out to everyone who helped me out threw this hellish week.

I have gotten her running shes a little rough. But I can figure that out in a little while.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWMUWUQVagk
Video for your pleasure. :D

But sadly by distributor cap locking screws broke when I was taking out the plug wires. So its kinda rigged in there with plumber putty untill tomorrow when I can go pick up some gasket seal until I can get a new distributor.
http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy41/nionai/My%2089%20Honda%20Accord/SSPX0181.jpg

Again big thanks going out guys. :D

One of my distributor cap screws broke on me when doing the first tune up.
If you are good with tools and have a steady hand you can drill the broken screw and then re-thread the hole. I did just that.

You should go with a smaller drill bit and try to drill as much centered in the broken screw as possible, and you will need a tap of the right size for the screw you will be using.
I cannot recall how big the holes in the distributor cap are but in the ultimate case you may re-thread it a little bigger. If the original screw is a 4mm (don't know if this is the right size, just an illustration) you may try a 5mm screw. in that case you'll need a 5mm tap and handle.
Go easy with taps as they break easily.

If you need more info just post; I know others here know how to do this as well.

[Nio]

One of my distributor cap screws broke on me when doing the first tune up.
If you are good with tools and have a steady hand you can drill the broken screw and then re-thread the hole. I did just that.

You should go with a smaller drill bit and try to drill as much centered in the broken screw as possible, and you will need a tap of the right size for the screw you will be using.
I cannot recall how big the holes in the distributor cap are but in the ultimate case you may re-thread it a little bigger. If the original screw is a 4mm (don't know if this is the right size, just an illustration) you may try a 5mm screw. in that case you'll need a 5mm tap and handle.
Go easy with taps as they break easily.

If you need more info just post; I know others here know how to do this as well.

Thaks bunchs. :D I don't have the tools on me. But I know someone who does, so I should be able to do this and save me some money.

Thanks again.