Radius Rod front suspension

[1988]

Do the bushings on the radius rod need to be pressed out?

[nswst8]

Nope. Replace with Prothane radius rod bushings.

Remove nuts at the cross member first.

Then unbolt it from the control arm. To gain clearance on the drivers side, jack up control arm at the lower ball joint to gain clearance from the axle.

[1988]

Do you know any sites that sell prothane replacement bushings for the radius rod? I've been searching around and haven't found anything.

[nswst8]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290345661970&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[w261w261]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290345661970&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Are these better in some way than OEM?

[nswst8]

These are over and above better than OEM. The difference is night and day.

[nswst8]

Here is another set:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260542619379&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[w261w261]

These are over and above better than OEM. The difference is night and day.

I don't mean to belabor the point, but compared to OEM, what would constitute a "night and day" difference? Do the OEM bushings allow more movement, or do they wear out sooner? I think in my history with the car (9 yrs, 150k miles) I've changed out the bushings twice. I can usually tell when they're ready to go, as I start getting some torque steer.

[1988]

I found this site and ordered them from here
http://www.suspension.com/prothane-civic.htm

[nswst8]

I don't mean to belabor the point, but compared to OEM, what would constitute a "night and day" difference? Do the OEM bushings allow more movement, or do they wear out sooner? I think in my history with the car (9 yrs, 150k miles) I've changed out the bushings twice. I can usually tell when they're ready to go, as I start getting some torque steer.

It is a solid urethane bushing that will lessen the flexing as with the OEM/TRW bushings. You will not have to replace them again after replacing with these.

And they are less expensive than K9517 Moog/TRW

[LX-incredible]

If you use the poly be absolutely sure to grind the collars down or use the shorter ones from the civic. I remember it being about a 1/4" that needed to be taken off each side. There will be play if you leave them long.

[1988]

Which part should I grind down the collar thats in the middle or the washers that are on the front and back?

thanks

[nswst8]

The guide collar that slides over the rod shaft that the bushings slide on.

[1988]

Thanks for the input! I ordered new prothane bushings for the control arms as well and will press them in within the next few weeks. After the work is done on the car I will have a new rack in and all new bushings in the front suspension. I look forward to a much better handling car.

[Dr_Snooz]

I noticed this last weekend that the manual calls for Silicone grease to be used on the OEM radius rod bushings. That would be di-electric grease. Strange...

It calls for the same thing on the LX-i guide pins. Even stranger. I'd have thought it would want a high temp grease.

It also calls for Molykote M77 as a grease for the brake pad shims. As near as I can tell, this would be a heavy moly grease like assembly lube. Not the stop squeak goop that most people put on.

Oh the joys of learning about grease...

[nswst8]

I use this stuff.

Energy Suspension 9.11104 Formula 5 Prelube Grease - 8 oz.