Weber carb in 88 Accord.

[Xaisk]

Hey everyone.

I have an 1988 Honda Accord. The engine is stock right now. EVERYTHING on it stock. I am planning on installing a 32/36 DGEV Carb on it. I dont think it is so simple as bolting the new carb straight on, It might be but I honestly dont know.

When I get the new carb, What kind of mods MIGHT have to be made for it to fit? Vacuum hose plugs.. manifold mods.. ETC.

The answer none also works but only if it is true haha.

Edit: Haha hell yeah. Got my Weber ordered. Now 3-5 waiting days for it to arrive =(

[stephensimmons]

Check with www.redlineweber.com they have a kit with adapter or you could just get the adapter if you have a carb from them. And some of the others on here can help you with the vaccum hoses or how to hook it all up. Also use the search form button on here to find imfo also.

[Xaisk]

So that means it WILL require an adapter?

I have been checking that link out. I found the adapter I needed when I used the guide but it led to a text only web page..
ht tp://w ww.redline weber.com/h tml/applic ation_gui de/HONDA. htm

(remove the spaces in the link to see the page. Wouldnt let me post the link.)

From there, I couldn't find any pricing or anything. Am I just missing something? or is it not posted on the site? Some of the kits have links to pictures, but no real pricing. Im about to email the redline people for pricing on the kit seperatly and kit/carb packages to see which I can get a better deal from.

[88Accord-DX]

Here is where I got mine.

http://www.jameng.com/products/index.phtml?section=13

This thread will walk you through what you need to do.

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38161

[import racer]

I think i saw one on ebay for 380.00

[cygnus x-1]

Here's where I got my adapter plate from way back when...

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/webernumber.asp?Kit_Nbr=99004.128

If you don't mind doing some hacking you could modify the intake manifold to fit the Weber directly. Fill in the bolt holes with JB-weld and use the Weber gasket as a template to drill/tap new holes. This would actually be better since the adapter plates tend to leak. If you do get the adapter plates make sure they are totally flat first. If they aren't you can use a file (or some coarse grit sandpaper on a flat surface, piece of glass, ceramic floor tile, etc.) to knock down any high spots.


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[Xaisk]

Here's where I got my adapter plate from way back when...



If you don't mind doing some hacking you could modify the intake manifold to fit the Weber directly. Fill in the bolt holes with JB-weld and use the Weber gasket as a template to drill/tap new holes. This would actually be better since the adapter plates tend to leak. If you do get the adapter plates make sure they are totally flat first. If they aren't you can use a file (or some coarse grit sandpaper on a flat surface, piece of glass, ceramic floor tile, etc.) to knock down any high spots.


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(Had to remove link from the quote to post haha. 3 more to go.)

That actually sounds like a really good idea. It would save me from having to buy the adapter plate. Id still have to buy the air filter but hey, that's money saved.

So what your saying is take out the intake manifold and fill the old bolt holes with the weld, let it dry and harden, Then measure the carb gasket to see where the bolt holes will be and drill accordingly? After that it should bolt straight on without the use of the adapter plate? Sounds like a reasonable idea. The carb, if I buy it without the kit, will come with the Weber gasket right? I just wanna double check before I get prepared. I should have the money to buy the new carb next Friday. I'm really excited haha.

[HondaBoy]

for the water ports and vacuum ports not used after the weber install, i used brass caps like for piping and stuck them on with JB Weld. worked well and doesnt look too shabby. plus it was easy as pie to do.

i do recommend a vacuum gauged installed. makes things intersting and you can see whats going on. also helped me with fuel mileage as i could gauge the throttal compared to what vacuum was being pulled. at best, i did 24 mpg city, 32 highway. this was after tuning and whatnot.

[88Accord-DX]

Words on wisdom on drilling holes in the intake for a direct bolt on.. Make sure you use precision on tapping the holes. Use a center punch to get the EXACT center point before drilling the hole......
The correct drill bit & tap will cost some money if you don't have it.

[cygnus x-1]

So what your saying is take out the intake manifold and fill the old bolt holes with the weld, let it dry and harden, Then measure the carb gasket to see where the bolt holes will be and drill accordingly? After that it should bolt straight on without the use of the adapter plate? Sounds like a reasonable idea. The carb, if I buy it without the kit, will come with the Weber gasket right? I just wanna double check before I get prepared. I should have the money to buy the new carb next Friday. I'm really excited haha.


That's basically it. The carb may or may not come with a gasket, I really don't know. Gaskets are cheap though so you might as well just get one. Or if you have some gasket paper you can cut out your own in a pinch.

The best way to mark the holes in the manifold is to put the carb in position and use a transfer punch to mark the hole centers. Definitely you want to be careful drilling and tapping to make sure the holes are straight. Although carb manifolds are common as dirt in junkyards so it wouldn't be the end of the world if you bodged it up. You might even be able to just fill the bad hole and redrill it.


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[Xaisk]

Well Ill be ordering the Weber after I wake up. Im going to go ahead and remove the old Keihin one. (haha if I havent done this a million times.)

With the new Weber will I need the Intake Manifold Flange?

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/5971-01039478.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_term=1988-1989+Honda+Accord+Carburetor+Mount+Flange+OES+Genu ine+88-89+Honda+Carburetor+Mount+Flange&utm_content=YN&utm_campaign=PartsG

That is the image of the part. Can I set that aside with the Keihin carb or will that be used with the Weber?

Hopefully it wont need to be reused otherwise I will have to sand it down. I believe that flange was leaking but im not quite sure.

[greentee76]

No you will not be using the heater/spacer/flange with the weber.

[Xaisk]

Ok so im getting slightly aggravated at this point.

I called and placed an order for the carb last Friday, gave them the info they need and they said it was good to go and be shipped.

The money hasnt been withdrawn from my account so I got curious and called them up. They told me that they didnt get an order for the kit.

The guy on the phone went and asked some other employees and nobody said they remembered. So he requested my information and remembered the Shipping address and pulled up a receipt saying the money HAD been withdrawn from my account.

This is very strange because the money still hasnt been withdrawn.

He told me he was going to call the shipping place in Cali for the Tracking number and to try and find out what the deal was, and that he would call me back. Its been almost an hour since then....

:confused:

[cygnus x-1]

Ok so im getting slightly aggravated at this point.

I called and placed an order for the carb last Friday, gave them the info they need and they said it was good to go and be shipped.

The money hasnt been withdrawn from my account so I got curious and called them up. They told me that they didnt get an order for the kit.

The guy on the phone went and asked some other employees and nobody said they remembered. So he requested my information and remembered the Shipping address and pulled up a receipt saying the money HAD been withdrawn from my account.

This is very strange because the money still hasnt been withdrawn.

He told me he was going to call the shipping place in Cali for the Tracking number and to try and find out what the deal was, and that he would call me back. Its been almost an hour since then....

:confused:


You would think that with today's computerized banking, transactions would be nearly instantaneous. However that is sometimes far from reality. For example, it takes 3 F@*#$%! DAYS for me to transfer money from my regular checking account to Paypal. WHY? The money is in my account already. It's a simple transfer from bank to bank. WTF are they doing for 3 DAYS? I can go to an ATM and get cash in minutes. And hell, if I had another account at a bank across the street I could take that cash and deposit it, and it would be available immediately. It makes absolutely no sense. :rant:

Sorry for the rant. I guess what I'm saying is don't worry about it yet. Wait until you get a response from the company. Who did you order from?


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[2ndGenGuy]

It's true... They can take money from you in an instant. But when YOU need the money, it takes 3 days. It's corporate policy and trying to appeal to the shareholders that causes these problems, not technology.

[Xaisk]

I ordered it from..

http://www.triangleautosupply.com/

Its been 5 days since I paid thats insane that it hasnt cashed.
They finally called back and said that it was on its way and gave me a tracking number that was wrong so im waiting for them to call back with a good tracking number.

Im not really frustrated now. I just want my Carby =(

[2ndGenGuy]

Sometimes tracking numbers can take a day before they actually post to the courier's site. I'm not sure WHY it's the same thing as the money transactions with the delays, but that happens to me all the time.

[Xaisk]

Its very strange. I checked the tracking number and it says it will arrive this Friday. (later than I had hoped but whatever.)
Youd think with these days with the tech we have this stuff would be instant with no delays.

Im very impatient.

Im going to clean the garage up and push the car in. Sick of working in the driveway. Especially since a coldfront has came through.

[Xaisk]

haha I hate to double post but ive finally got some news.

I GOT MY WEBER IN!! YAY!!

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=205051465&albumId=2092271

You can view pics of the carb itself and some of the removal work ive done so far.

I got all the stuff removed that needs to be, except for 1 big pipe im just going to cap off because its annoying to remove. I feel itd be easier to cap the end of the pipe than the Exhaust manifold anyway.

I was going to begin capping some of the thermo valves and intake manifold things, but my autopart store closed before I could buy the covers. Going to resume work on it as soon as I get up tommorow.

Im going about doing this right? The manual said remove all the factory vacuum lines n junk, but I started doing that before I read the manual haha.

and also.. which one of the vacuum lines is the vacuum advance one? Its one of the 2 coming out of the dizzy I believe, but which one of the two?

(edit) In pic http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=205051465&albumID=2092271&imageID=36172371

There is a hole next to one of the holes the adapter plate bolts in to. The gasket doesnt seem to cover the whole up.. and looks like it allows a path to the intake manifold intake holes. Do I need to seal that off or leave it empty?

[cygnus x-1]

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=205051465&albumId=2092271

You can view pics of the carb itself and some of the removal work ive done so far.


Isn't it great to have a nice clean engine bay? It's almost worth it just for that.




Im going about doing this right? The manual said remove all the factory vacuum lines n junk, but I started doing that before I read the manual haha.
and also.. which one of the vacuum lines is the vacuum advance one? Its one of the 2 coming out of the dizzy I believe, but which one of the two?



Yeah, you pretty much just gut it. The only vacuum connections you still need are from the brake booster to the manifold (big honking hose, looks like you got that one), and one from the manifold to the dizzy; pretty sure it's the inner port. If you're worried about it you can also tee both ports together and run both to the manifold. One port is main vacuum advance and the other adds an extra 4 degrees for cold starts. However you end up doing it you should check the timing when you're done.




(edit) In pic http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=205051465&albumID=2092271&imageID=36172371

There is a hole next to one of the holes the adapter plate bolts in to. The gasket doesnt seem to cover the whole up.. and looks like it allows a path to the intake manifold intake holes. Do I need to seal that off or leave it empty?


There is an extra hole in the manifold to circulate coolant through the stock carb. You definitely need to plug that hole with JB or something.


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