Dr_Snooz
03-04-2010, 09:39 PM
I've been using this for a few hundred miles now and it's working well enough. It's a propylene glycol base, so it's less toxic than regular coolant and potentially much easier to dispose of. It lasts 100,000 miles and possibly quite a lot longer. Best of all, because there's no water, it doesn't have to be under pressure to keep from boiling. You can do cool stuff like this to your radiator cap
http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/dr_snooz/SNC00140.jpg
and not lose any cooling efficiency. That will keep your radiator hoses and all 10 billion little bypass hoses lasting a lot longer.
The downside is that it costs $30/gal. and you need 2 gals. for your 3g. It's thicker than normal coolant, so the bleed bolt won't work properly until you get it up to temp and thin the coolant. You have to completely purge the water from the system before using. I used Sierra coolant at full strength to purge the system. Evans is clear, so forget about being able to see it in your overflow tank. I am having some bouncing idle before getting to temp. This might be a dirty Fast Idle Valve or EACV, but it could also be that I have bubbles in the coolant I can't get out. I'll keep researching that one.
As for performance, I don't notice any difference between this and normal coolant. The temp gauge acts the same as it always did. Of course, a few hundred miles in spring is no test of coolant. I'll report back later with how it does in a 110 degree Fresno summer with the A/C going full blast.
http://i441.photobucket.com/albums/qq132/dr_snooz/SNC00140.jpg
and not lose any cooling efficiency. That will keep your radiator hoses and all 10 billion little bypass hoses lasting a lot longer.
The downside is that it costs $30/gal. and you need 2 gals. for your 3g. It's thicker than normal coolant, so the bleed bolt won't work properly until you get it up to temp and thin the coolant. You have to completely purge the water from the system before using. I used Sierra coolant at full strength to purge the system. Evans is clear, so forget about being able to see it in your overflow tank. I am having some bouncing idle before getting to temp. This might be a dirty Fast Idle Valve or EACV, but it could also be that I have bubbles in the coolant I can't get out. I'll keep researching that one.
As for performance, I don't notice any difference between this and normal coolant. The temp gauge acts the same as it always did. Of course, a few hundred miles in spring is no test of coolant. I'll report back later with how it does in a 110 degree Fresno summer with the A/C going full blast.