P/S Question

[DBMaster]

I have had some intermittent brief episodes of power steering loss. Sometimes it happens when I have backed out of a parking space and occasionally it happens while making a turn. The P/S will just cut out briefly and then start working again. It is very intermittent right now, but these types of things rarely get better over time.

Does anyone have any ideas about what may be causing it?

Gracias!

[A18A]

my car does the same, i think it's cause i'm running a bit low on p/s fluid, so maybe you should check that. it usually does this to me at the really low rpms, might be cause it doesn't turn the pump fast enough or something?

[DBMaster]

Nah, in fact, I just put a new front seal on the pump to stop a leak. The fluid level has remained full for a couple of weeks now.

[Dr_Snooz]

Mine was doing that until I changed the fluid. That's a maintenance item now in my book. Also, get an inline filter to start getting some of the crud out of the system. You can buy them off the shelf at Autozone for $12. If the fluid is groady black, then it's time to change it.

[DBMaster]

I'll definitely try changing the fluid. That's pretty cheap and easy. I've seriously been thinking about a new reservoir, too, since that would take care of the filter question as well. They're not that expensive.

[-DWM-]

if you still have power steering loss after you change your fluid and stuff, you may have a leak in a suction line (from reservior to pump), air can actually get in and cause the pump to momentarily cavitate. It can Happen in any hydraulic sysem with a pump. Good luck!

[DBMaster]

You know, it just could be that! The suction hose has been oozing for quite a while so the rubber must have developed some tiny holes through it over time. As long as I am draining the fluid I think I might as well change it. I ordered the funky molded hose from Majestic.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

[Dr_Snooz]

I'll definitely try changing the fluid. That's pretty cheap and easy. I've seriously been thinking about a new reservoir, too, since that would take care of the filter question as well. They're not that expensive.

Not available anymore, unfortunately.

[DBMaster]

Not available anymore, unfortunately.


True. I found that out when I was on the Majestic site. I wish there was a way to simply remove the filter from the reservoir without messing up the tank. That way I could just replace with an inline filter.

There are a lot of parts they have stopped carrying lately.

[nswst8]

www.hondapartsdeals.com

They are listing the reservoir 53701-SE0-953 for $52.41

[Oldblueaccord]

Besides whats mentioned any hint of belt slip? It could cause what your talking about.


wp

[DBMaster]

www.hondapartsdeals.com (http://www.hondapartsdeals.com)

They are listing the reservoir 53701-SE0-953 for $52.41


Well, I did order one right after I read this. The order was in "processing" status for a couple of days and then I got this:

"The comments for your order are

The item that you have ordered has been discontinued by Honda. This order has been cancelled.



Your order has been updated to the following status.

New status: Cancelled"

Oh, well.

[2oodoor]

Besides whats mentioned any hint of belt slip? It could cause what your talking about.


wp

X2, also water splashed on belt making it slip momentarily (coolant leaks too)

[DBMaster]

My mechanic also stated that there is a valve in the P/S valve box that can cause this kind of intermittent failure if it is sticking. When I get the new suction hose I am going to remove the tank and flush it. We'll see what's happening after there's clean fluid and a leak free suction line.

[Dr_Snooz]

Just clean fluid fixed the issue for me. I got another reservoir from the yard this last weekend. I sawed the top off it and threw out the filter. I'll clean it up and glue the top back on then swap it in. Then it's just finding room for the inline filter. ...somewhere...

[DBMaster]

Just clean fluid fixed the issue for me. I got another reservoir from the yard this last weekend. I sawed the top off it and threw out the filter. I'll clean it up and glue the top back on then swap it in. Then it's just finding room for the inline filter. ...somewhere...

You must be a little psychic, Paul. I was just about to ask you via PM how hard it would be to remove the OEM filter from the reservoir. I was noodling over all sorts of ideas like finding an oil filter with similar size media and installing that, but I think the inline filter would be a good idea. I am thinking if it is not too large it might fit in the suction line or one of the lines attached to the fluid cooler tube. Starting in 1990, I believe, the filters were deleted from the P/S tanks.

Mike

[Dr_Snooz]

Autozone has this one:

Very long URL (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Suspension+%26+ Steering&fromType=parts&fromString=search&parentId=46-0&currentPage=1&filterByKeyWord=power+steering+fluid+filter&isSearchByPartNumber=false&navValue=14600949&categoryNValue=14699999&fromWhere=&itemId=949-0&displayName=Power+Steering+Filter&searchText=power+steering+fluid+filter)

Unfortunately, the most logical place to put this is on the big hose that circles up over the PS pump and this filter's ends are too small to fit in that hose. You can bury the thing under the cruise actuator, but I don't know how well it would fit. I'm going to take mine back for one that will fit a bigger hose.

[DBMaster]

I saw some online that look exactly like the magnetic inline filter that my mechanic installed with the new transmission last summer. It probably is the same thing. They show to be available to fit hoses with ID's of 1/2" and 3/8." The hose that you are referring to has a 3/8" ID. I replaced a couple of hoses behind the engine last year due to leaks. A couple of them look long enough to accommodate one of those filters. I am thinking I may not mess with it after all. :)

[DBMaster]

I have an update. It took Majestic a bit longer than usual to get the suction hose to me. I removed the old fluid (which didn't look that bad, by the way) per the shop manual procedure. I removed the reservoir and cleaned it up. I flushed it forward and in reverse with solvent followed by clean P/S fluid while it was out of the car. Fluid seems to readily flow from the tank down to the suction connection by gravity alone. It is now filled with clean fluid and the air has been purged. The power cut out on me twice yesterday, once in the middle of a u-turn lane and once in the middle of a right turn. I am allowing a little time now for the clean fluid to circulate, but if it keeps doing this I am probably going to have to take it to the shop because this could end up being dangerous.

Also, as an added joy I noticed coolant dripping in the area of thew water pump. I have NEVER had a water pump leak. The last time it was replaced was when I had my mechanic replace the timing belt instead of doing it myself. I will be really disappointed if the leak is from the WP seal and they won't replace it gratis. It should last at least as long as the t-belt, period. They did tell me they use only Honda pumps so at least that part is good. The only other thing I think it could be is the pipe that the bypass hoses are connected to. They are going to look at it up on the rack tomorrow to see what they think it is. It's not a really bad leak - yet.

[2oodoor]

or the hose attached to said pipe in the same area:thumbup:

[DBMaster]

Yeah, it's not any of the heater, connector, or bypass hoses. I replaced all of those last year and they are still leak free. It could be the spot where the water pipe goes into the back of the water pump cavity - that would be less painful. Funny thing is there were no drips under the car at work, or in the garage since that leakage yesterday. It's intermittent. That is odd for a coolant leak, but it was definitely coolant. It's orange and smells like pancake syrup.

[nswst8]

Could be a pressure leak ie: as the coolant heats up. The only other hose that I know of in that area is the one that attaches from EIAC valve the water just above and to the left of the oil filter. It's a pain to change and one that I couldn't find when I did all those little hoses.

[DBMaster]

Anybody know where else besides a Honda parts site I could find a speed sensor. Mine's been leaking on an off for years. Now, with new clean fluid it's leaking worse. I need to replace soon.

Thanks! Mike.

[Dr_Snooz]

You might not even be able to find it at the dealership anymore. Junkyard is your best bet.

I would have skipped the solvent flush myself. Your filter will soak that up real nice and then distribute it throughout the system. Unless you flushed it out with about 40 gallons of fresh PS fluid, you have solvent thinning your fluid. What solvent did you use?

[DBMaster]

My mechanic thought it was OK. I used naptha (white gas). The p/s reservoir is vented and this solvent will evaporate at operating temperature. I found a new speed sensor on eBay so that parts OK. It does seem to be discontinued by Honda, anyway.

Thanks, Paul.

[DBMaster]

I guess the aftermarket speed sensor was not so good. While tightening down the bolt that holds it into the transmission the tab that the bolt goes through broke right off the sensor. What crap! The thing is very simple. I opened up the old one and replaced the big o-ring. It's pretty much leak free now. I guess I will be returning the one I bought.

[Dr_Snooz]

You definitely want to seat the sensor in the trans before tightening that bolt. The tab is just for holding it in place, not driving it down.

[DBMaster]

You definitely want to seat the sensor in the trans before tightening that bolt. The tab is just for holding it in place, not driving it down.

I thought it was, but I guess I learned the hard way. The seller on eBay is willing to refund my money, though.

I don't understand why the shop manual doesn't just instruct to replace the o-ring inside. It's a very simple job. There's also a shaft seal that keeps the P/S fluid and the transmission fluid separate, but that thing was in like new condition. It's a hell of a lot cheaper to replace an o-ring than the whole sensor.