2 new alternators still not charging, HELP

[zander4am]

Ok here's the skinny

I've been through 2 alternators in the past 3 months. I tried to drive it 200 miles on a dead/dying alternator and it went all but 13 miles of the trip. Then yesterday I got my car back from the shop reassured that all was well but as I was driving back the battery light came back on and the Idle rose. What could be going on? Should I risk the 200 mile journey again?

87 Accord Manual

[Harrison_Bergeron]

Did they check the voltage regulator? If you have a new alternator I think the only options are the regulator or a cable connection.

[ShyBoyCA6]

Ok here's the skinny

I've been through 2 alternators in the past 3 months. I tried to drive it 200 miles on a dead/dying alternator and it went all but 13 miles of the trip. Then yesterday I got my car back from the shop reassured that all was well but as I was driving back the battery light came back on and the Idle rose. What could be going on? Should I risk the 200 mile journey again?

87 Accord Manual

you check grounds? whats the amp reading?

[ghettogeddy]

maybe not an alt and a bad battery

[zander4am]

ok update

Went to autozone and got them to test my alternator.
here are the results from the printout.

Battery Test

Good Battery
voltage: 12.54V
measured: 1275 cca (this is way over the rated. ?)
rated: 525 cca

Charging System Test
No Voltage
No load: 12.26V
loaded: 12.26V

The guys at autozone did not give me a straight answer so what do you guys make of this?

[russiankid]

1275CCA is way to much.

[newaccorddriver]

cranking amps and cold cranking amps doesnt make a difference on what the number is i find. i started my car up with a battery that put out 170CCA fine when it was -40C.


you failed the charging system test though. at idle with no load, you should be putting out around 14.2V or so, and that goes the same with load

[ghettogeddy]

cranking amps and cold cranking amps doesnt make a difference on what the number is i find. i started my car up with a battery that put out 170CCA fine when it was -40C.


you failed the charging system test though. at idle with no load, you should be putting out around 14.2V or so, and that goes the same with load

but wouldn't it be true that if the battery is not holding the correct charge it could fault the alt test

i mean if you changed the alt twice and it still this bad i would try a dif battery
and also check all your cables nothing else should effect those numbers unless you have something draining hard core

[stephensimmons]

Ok here's the skinny

I've been through 2 alternators in the past 3 months. I tried to drive it 200 miles on a dead/dying alternator and it went all but 13 miles of the trip. Then yesterday I got my car back from the shop reassured that all was well but as I was driving back the battery light came back on and the Idle rose. What could be going on? Should I risk the 200 mile journey again?

87 Accord Manual

Where are you buying your alternators?

[MessyHonda]

also you got to make sure you install it correct...sometimes too much tension is bad for the alternator.....did you also replace your belt?

[kentwat]

I'd take it somewhere else for the test. Just my observation, with the car running using a multimeter, you should be getting over 14volts at the battery terminals. If not I'd suspect alternator. You should be getting 14+ volts with red and black at the battery. You can also test how your car is grounded by keeping the red hooked to battery positive and touching the fender bolt, or ground strap on valve cover.

As for you battery specs 1275 cca doesn't sound right for a 525 battery. Ther is usually a couple hundred sped between the two measurements. My battery light would come on and off and I'd test it and at the battery it would display 12.9 I ran it until the battery light stayed on indefinetly. Do yourself a favor and get a 10 dollar digital multimeter at Harbor freight so you can test eletrical stuff on the fly. I ended up getting a new alternator from Car Quest $160 + core. It was a reman denso.

[messmerjos]

true but its and internal regulator... there is an external one BUT its for accessories if i was u take the ground wire off the battery and the hot wire on the alternator (one bolted to the top) and get an ohms reading

[messmerjos]

Did they check the voltage regulator? If you have a new alternator I think the only options are the regulator or a cable connection.

def take the ground wire off the battery and the hot wire on the alternator and do a resistance test...

[messmerjos]

i know im getting annoying but the voltage regulator is internal there is an external regulator but it has to do with accessories... i would check the resistance fromt he ground wire of the battery disconnected and the hot wire of the alternator disconnected tell me your reading

[ghettogeddy]

messmerjos no need for multi posts there is a lil button to the left for quotes and multiple quotes