View Full Version : losts wiring harness projects in the hatch
lostforawhile
03-30-2010, 03:46 PM
I got some more harness stuff done today,most of several modules installed, and the harness built for it and some of the audio system, and part of the harness for the voice warning system.
harness before it went in
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021190.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021191.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021192.jpg
rear floor panel installed
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021194.jpg
bolt that holds down spare tire
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021195.jpg
tire in place with spacer
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021196.jpg
cover in place
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021197.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021199.jpg
ShyBoyCA6
03-30-2010, 04:04 PM
nice very nice and good to see your working on the hatch lost
Tdurr
03-30-2010, 04:57 PM
is that nos on the left?? lol
looks like fun.. i hate running wiring
lostforawhile
03-30-2010, 04:59 PM
is that nos on the left?? lol
looks like fun.. i hate running wiring
no bazooka
ShyBoyCA6
03-30-2010, 05:09 PM
no bazooka
:idea: can i use it??:eek::thumbup: lol
Rendon LX-i
03-30-2010, 05:35 PM
Lmfao. ^^^^
lostforawhile
03-30-2010, 05:50 PM
Lmfao. ^^^^
it's a good bazooka, from back when they were the shit. I reinforced the tube to get rid of rattles, it's a powered one with the heavy voice coil, ditched the factory internal amp and run it off of an old school Sony amp, and active crossover network.
Rendon LX-i
03-30-2010, 05:53 PM
O i know what you saying my buddy had 4 of them all together and wow it was killer dude.
i was leaning towards shy's reply. I think he might as a weapon CAN I USE IT LOL
lostforawhile
03-30-2010, 05:54 PM
O i know what you saying my buddy had 4 of them all together and wow it was killer dude.
i was leaning towards shy's reply. I think he might as a weapon CAN I USE IT LOL
yep,thats why the warning decal on it lol :thumbup: i wish i had a picture of the real decals on a real one, i could have a decal printed.
lostforawhile
03-30-2010, 07:27 PM
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021201.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021202.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021203.jpg
ShyBoyCA6
03-30-2010, 08:14 PM
oh is that what it is lol jk i knew what it was lol just messing around rendon and damn tim looks like alot of work went into this i think i would get a headache trying to figure out on how you did it:nervous:
lostforawhile
03-30-2010, 08:42 PM
I just got the radio remote interface box from ebay for ten bucks, guy bought it to adapt some steering wheel controls and never used it. it's the PAC SWI-X , I still need to use my relay box I built, on a steering wheel with remote buttons and a positive output, it sends 12 volts to the radio and each button has a resistor in line with it. this produces a different voltage depending on which button is pushed. On my setup with the mirror button, i have a bunch of different wires with 12 volts i need to use the relay box and diodes to separate the mirror switch into eight outputs. the mirror switch switches the eight relays on and off. I just need to connect 12 volts common to all of them, then each output gets a resistor of a different value. You can't connect the box directly to 12 volts in. you need between 1k and 20k in resistance per voltage input.
Civic Accord Honda
03-31-2010, 03:07 PM
that spare tire doesn't look very trustworthy sir, the braids are showing O.o
2oodoor
03-31-2010, 03:13 PM
im waiting on the fire extinguisher mod.. rofl
guulod thats alot of shtuff Tim..and pwned by
CAH about the donut spare
still love ya bro..
lostforawhile
03-31-2010, 04:43 PM
that spare tire doesn't look very trustworthy sir, the braids are showing O.o
yea i know it's just a bad tire off of the civic to see how everything fits.
lostforawhile
03-31-2010, 04:44 PM
im waiting on the fire extinguisher mod.. rofl
guulod thats alot of shtuff Tim..and pwned by
CAH about the donut spare
still love ya bro..
thats been done,it's the vaccume bottle, it's since i will have a little bit lower vaccume with the dual carbs and the cam. it's for the brake booster
lostforawhile
03-31-2010, 08:39 PM
anyone have a lot of resistors around? There is nowhere to buy any here now.
in order to make the radio remote adapter work, i need about ten resistors of different values, starting about 1k and anything up to 20k values aren't important, just ten different values with a decent difference between each one. i have to wire the ten relays with 12 volts common then each relay output gets a different resistor. this is how the unit knows what button you pushed.
lostforawhile
04-02-2010, 04:22 PM
I have the resistors, bought a huge grab bag of electronic parts from ebay, has every kind of component in it I could imagine, it's like Christmas :rockon: ten bucks, i probably have a thousand diodes and resistors alone now. in addition to every other kind of component I could ever want.
Sporno
08-12-2010, 06:11 PM
holy crap its been a while lost! Dude this is awesome man, I gotta see what youve been doing with the car recently.
lostforawhile
08-12-2010, 07:44 PM
I'm waiting for cooler weather to go work out there, it's been nearly 100 almost every day this summer, just impossible to work.
lostforawhile
10-19-2010, 09:34 PM
some updates,just been working on the car to not think about my life self destructing, pardon the fact it's dirty, it eventually will get cleaned. there isn't much point in cleaning it until it's done. I had to do some grinding to the cross bar under the glove box, for those not familiar to this car, on mine, it also holds the bell crank assembly for the choke cable, as well as some other items, it's been heavily reinforced with steel, I was having minor clearance issues with the courtesy light I put in, I also added another aluminum cross drilled piece,it holds three relays in a slide out box, and will hold the clamp for the choke cable from the dash side.
cross bar, slighty modified
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021758.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021759.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021761.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021763.jpg
this is about where the msd box will sit
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021762.jpg
coil,and all i had to do was use a spark plug boot end to fit on it
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021756.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021755.jpg
you can see how little of the relay box sticks out
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021768.jpg
lostforawhile
10-19-2010, 09:48 PM
spent a couple of dollars buying a used dvd at the pawn shop, and i asked how much this was, no one knew if it worked so she gave it to me, one nine volt later and one fuse and I now have a working sperry meter.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021769.jpg
laying out a pattern for the box, I found a stack of heavy wax card stock folders in my garage when i moved in, everything in there dated from the 40's, best pattern material in the world, too bad they don't make it anymore, I've looked :sad2: , I'll have to make it last.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021748.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021749.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021750.jpg
lostforawhile
10-22-2010, 03:12 PM
I have the underdash fuse panels in place in the passenger footwell, I found out ace 8 gauge connectors from ace are crap, the terminals are worthless, also it's 8 gauge stranded, so it fits a 6 gauge connector, My regular crimpers are worthless, and the rachet crimpers are at work, so I ended up making one, two scrap pieces of aluminum, two 5/16 bolts to tighten it, and a 5/16 bolt to make the crimp. put the wire in the crimp connector, tighten the bolts, then tighten the center bolt to make the crimp, release the center bolt, unscrew the holding bolts, and force the connector out with the center bolt, nice round crimp and extremly strong.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021772.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021773.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021774.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021776.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021777.jpg
lostforawhile
11-02-2010, 11:09 PM
I found a couple of heavy duty relays finally, now I can finish the ignition, the key switch does nothing but turn on the accessory, you have to have the key with the transponder in order to have power for the ignition and start. I need to make some wire anchors to secure the wire looms.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021815.jpg
I was trying to find a four position fuse block, which I didn't find, but I did find this, it's a bus bar, what i'm going to do is mount it where the square hole is, next to where the emissions box would go. since my battery cable runs though the fender already, i can terminate it at the bus bar, then run the cables to the fusebox,starter,and alternator through the fender, this will hide a lot of wires
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021816.jpg
lostforawhile
11-03-2010, 08:03 PM
I got it all plugged in to the fuse box, and the heavy splices lay horizontal to the bottom of the dash, so they are invisible, it will all follow the original loom to the rear quarters. putting that fuse box back in is a son of a bitch, my legs are still cramping from laying twisted under the dash for so long. just shaking involuntarily, plus i've been out there since 7 last night. time to quit and get some sleep
lostforawhile
11-04-2010, 01:05 PM
it's not painted black yet, but this is the new key surround, the small hole is for a small led, it comes on to let me know the transponder recognizes the key. now to install the key surround, I need to install the bottom half first, then the key surround, tighten the set screws from above, then the top half, then the instrument surround.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021817.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021819.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021818.jpg
the new ignition wiring
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021820.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021821.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021822.jpg
Ichiban
11-06-2010, 07:46 PM
Three jaws are gay.:kekeke:
lostforawhile
11-07-2010, 08:35 AM
Three jaws are gay.:kekeke:
well it's a pain in the ass to change out to a four jaw, whan the machine has to be used for other things, the four jaws haven't been used in so long they are probably rusted up
catalin
11-15-2010, 09:27 AM
Trying to follow along, but I can't quite figure out what you're building here?? Sorry for being a little forward but it looks quite messy.
lostforawhile
11-15-2010, 09:48 AM
Trying to follow along, but I can't quite figure out what you're building here?? Sorry for being a little forward but it looks quite messy.
it won't look that way when it's done, I'm trying to work on it a bit a time, the main thing i'm waiting on is the heater core, it's on the way, once I get that, the new dash can go in, and I can start putting stuff back together. it's a real pain to do, since I can't open the doors all the way in the garage, I have to put the car on the ground, then get help to push it up the grade and out of the garage, then swap dashes, then roll it back in, My wife and I have both been in the hospital and sick, so not much has got done
lostforawhile
11-19-2010, 08:57 PM
this is the new headlight connector for the left side headlight, I would reccomend replacing both, with the abuse they get with the pop up lamps, that bit of harness can fail
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021828.jpg
I had to use the original grommet and clip, these are important to keep the harness in the correct position,
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021829.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021830.jpg
this was the othe day out there in the freezing cold
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021831.jpg
working on the cleaned up harness in the left fender well, these grounds are important so they have to be good,
cleaned to bare metal
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021832.jpg
silicone dielectric grease on the bare metal and on the ring connectors to prevent corrosion
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021833.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021834.jpg
left side headlight relays, with the two relays per light, you maintain the safety redundency, but take all the current load off of the switch, it's also ready for an H4 conversion, the relays aren't secured yet
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021836.jpg
lostforawhile
11-20-2010, 07:47 PM
i finally got around to removing the center console yet again and installing the RFID reader, even if you know where it is, you have to turn things on in a specific sequence or the ignition system will never power up. you can't do a thing though without starting the sequence with the transponder. it came with two in the kit
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021837.jpg
lostforawhile
11-22-2010, 07:58 PM
I pulled the oil cooler out so I can clean up wiring and paint that side, I forgot what a son of a bitch it is to get that thing out.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021849.jpg
it definitly needs cleaning up
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021847.jpg
can someone identify this relay? the square one? I know it's not a light motor relay, they are next to the radiator
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021846.jpg
90 percent of this harness will be gone, i need the wires for the alternator plug, oil pressure sender, temp gauge, and back up lights, thats about it
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021848.jpg
87roach
11-23-2010, 10:17 AM
I remember removing that relay for my efi swap.. sorry I know that's not much help.
lostforawhile
11-23-2010, 04:36 PM
I think thats the EFE heater relay for the carb, can someone confirm?, more done, I needed a place to mount the headlight fuses that wasn't in the way, since the oil cooler was out, and I needed to paint the base anyway, I figured out I could add a plate to the oil cooler base, everything is mounted on a fabricated battery tray that bolts to the old bracketry.
plate sheared and ready to weld
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021851.jpg
parts blasted
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021852.jpg
welding plate to oil cooler base
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021853.jpg
fuse holder
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021855.jpg
lostforawhile
11-23-2010, 07:12 PM
any ideas on that relay?
lostforawhile
11-23-2010, 10:09 PM
does anyone remember the color codes on the temp sender and the oil pressure sender? every wire diagram i've got is missing those two for some reason. I took apart the engine harness to trace everything I need, and the south with it's heat, is not good to engine wiring, I think it's the sustained underhood temps all year around. all of the tape is just baked,as well as all the loom cover. I would tell anyone to replace that alternator wire, mine got so hot over the years, you can't even bend it within four inches of the alternator terminal. They really should have run 6 gauge wire with the distance it has to travel, 8 gauge is just on the edge of being too small. I think if a new alternator primary wire was run, you would see improved performance as far as the electrical, due to less loss in the wire. the alternator isn't bad as far as output, but the primary lead is undersized. it's not fused eithier, there is a fuse between the battery and fuse box, but the alternator lead goes directly into the bus bypassing the fuse. this is why it's important to fuse the alternator for a remote battery, if it shorted in factory configuration, the battery fuse in the underhood fuse box would blow , if it's a remote battery it's different
Civic Accord Honda
11-23-2010, 11:13 PM
this thread makes me suicidal.
lostforawhile
11-24-2010, 03:09 PM
bump. can someone tel me the wire colors of the temp sender and the oil pressure switch?
Dr_Snooz
11-24-2010, 09:00 PM
Oil pressure sender is yellow/red. What temp sender are you asking about? The one for the gauge, the fans or the ECU?
lostforawhile
11-25-2010, 08:15 AM
Oil pressure sender is yellow/red. What temp sender are you asking about? The one for the gauge, the fans or the ECU?
the gauge, I have everything else, about 90 percent of that engine harness is going to go away, most off it is plugged into three plugs near where the battery would go, the light motor wiring is seperate, as is the fan wiring, I know which wire would have gone to the heater for the cab base, so I'll just use my meter to see if it goes to that mystery relay, I think it has a main fuse on it, so i can use it for power to the headlight fuses I put in, once I get this area cleaned up, i'll paint it just like the othe side
car6289
11-25-2010, 10:20 AM
Definitely the EFE relay. Wires to/from it are in two connectors, one connector white & white/red (muscle) the other connector is blue & black (control).
coolant temp sender to gauge is yellow/green.
lostforawhile
11-25-2010, 10:29 AM
Definitely the EFE relay. Wires to/from it are in two connectors, one connector white & white/red (muscle) the other connector is blue & black (control).
coolant temp sender to gauge is yellow/green.thanks, another relay to get rid of , i need to pull everything out from under the fender and get rid of all the unneeded wires. all I need are the starter solonoid wire , wires to the alternator, temp sender wire, and oil pressure switch wires, plus the back up light wires. the headlight motor wires and cooling fan wires will get re wrapped
lostforawhile
11-25-2010, 10:51 PM
does someone know if the main fuse marked PTC goes to anything else other then the EFE heater? I pulled it from the fuse box, and the only continuity i can get on any pin in the fuse box is for the wire going to the EFE relay, that wire is the same gauge as the wires feeding the headlight circuits, I don't think I'll need 40 amps to feed the fuses for the headlights though, since all that main fuse would be powering are eithier two high or two low beams, and not the parking lamps, the 30 amp fuse in there should be enough. the reason I bypassed the current from the switch is mainly, the switch is discontinued, and they have a tendency to burn contacts, it's overloaded from sealed beams, let alone h4 conversions. this has the switch only switching the current for the parking lamps, and the relays for the headlights. it's much eaisier to replace a relay then a hard to find switch
car6289
11-26-2010, 12:40 PM
PTC 30 amp fuse #24 (haven't figured out what the letters stand for yet) provides +12 vdc power to the EFE heater and it would appear nothing else is on this circuit.
lostforawhile
11-26-2010, 01:25 PM
PTC 30 amp fuse #24 (haven't figured out what the letters stand for yet) provides +12 vdc power to the EFE heater and it would appear nothing else is on this circuit.
thanks, I couldn't trace it to anything else, I'll use it as a main fuse for the headlights, it's the same gauge wire out of the plug. That relay may come in handy for something else later, I'll save it and the double connector plugs
lostforawhile
11-26-2010, 01:36 PM
I'll go out later and pull everything out of that side and start cleaning, then getting rid of excess wires
lostforawhile
11-26-2010, 08:16 PM
does someone have a parts car with the headlight relays and harness on it? I pulled out the relays and one is partially melted as is the harness plug into it, It might have been from the engine fire I had a few years ago, it was working but needs to be replaced. there are two different plugs, I think the relays are the same. I believe one is for up, and one for down. the one I need has the three black wires, a white/blue stripe, white /green stripe and a blue wire. they all have dots on them, but those are the colors. I need a relay and pigtail. There are no three geez in the yards here right now. the relays are right beside the radiator on the passenger side, you undo one bolt, and one is hid behind the other
Dr_Snooz
11-26-2010, 08:55 PM
the gauge, I have everything else, about 90 percent of that engine harness is going to go away, most off it is plugged into three plugs near where the battery would go, the light motor wiring is seperate, as is the fan wiring, I know which wire would have gone to the heater for the cab base, so I'll just use my meter to see if it goes to that mystery relay, I think it has a main fuse on it, so i can use it for power to the headlight fuses I put in, once I get this area cleaned up, i'll paint it just like the othe side
Temp gauge sender is yellow/green.
EDIT: guess I'm late to this party. Lost, I'm going to send you the ETM. It's for the '89 model year, but I think it will help you anyway.
lostforawhile
11-26-2010, 08:59 PM
Temp gauge sender is yellow/green.
thanks!! was there a plug over the reverse switch? it looks like i can just solder wires to the tabs and heat shrink, probably more secure anyway.
lostforawhile
11-26-2010, 09:20 PM
everything is out and ready to get cleaned and painted, i just have to pull the wires out from under the fender, then start scrubbing. took the radiator out, so i can scrub and paint around that area. I have 13 inches between my bench and the tire to work in. going to be fun, YAY!
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021857.jpg
lostforawhile
11-26-2010, 09:46 PM
I think tomorrow I'm going to clean that garage for one thing, the radiator, and front bumper will go in the house to protect them, i have a room full of parts, and it's so small out there, there's no where to put anything :D
lostforawhile
11-26-2010, 11:42 PM
Dr.Snooze you rock!! electrical trouble shooting manual!!! I have all the wires out under the fender, so tomorrow time to start pruning :D
lostforawhile
11-27-2010, 08:10 AM
I read the entire manual cover to cover, great stuff, it's interesting that the carbed engine has no rev limiter, but the ac compressor does, it's built into the ac delay box, you may blow the engine, but the ac will be just fine. :sad2: also to whoever came up with the dumb idea to make the lights flip out of sync by rapidly pushing the button, they use dynamic braking, so continued use of that will ruin the control unit.
lostforawhile
11-27-2010, 03:46 PM
strange, the later models, even the manual ones have a start relay by the multifunction box, explains the functional clutch switch, but the early ones don't. but have the clutch switch. This would explain the 86-87 models with so many burned start contacts in the switch, maby thats why the relay was added. I added one anyway for my pushbutton start. you guys also get a trailer connector, even the hatchbacks . it's the six pin connector at the back not connected to anything, probably tucked behind a panel.
Dr_Snooz
11-27-2010, 06:35 PM
Lostforawhile is geeking out on the ETM hard CORE!
Glad you're enjoying it. :D
Lost,are you still out of work?
lostforawhile
11-27-2010, 09:02 PM
Lost,are you still out of work?
yep and out of unemployment, trying to get on at oil dry, they pay good and good benifits
lostforawhile
11-27-2010, 09:22 PM
I didn't get a chance to work on it, but i will be out there tomorrow. I can't paint until it warms up and we had a cold snap. everything is ready to sort out, some of the harness will stay the same, just get inspected,new split loom, and tape.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021860.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021861.jpg
supplies ready to go
lostforawhile
11-28-2010, 10:53 PM
out there working on it now, looks like i'll be able to replace the headlight retractor motor relays with standard 5 pin bosche type. I thought it might have been the type of relay that retained it's state, but looks like the standard single pole double throw type. i need to get a couple of 5 pin relay sockets is all. if anyone needs help with their headlight motors let me know, now that i have a clear circuit diagram, I can help you. just standard motor control stuff.
lostforawhile
11-29-2010, 12:42 AM
they do some really strange things in this harness. have it all figured out though, you just need a good wiring diagram. A wire tuck is one thing, but I wouldn't reccomend getting this deep into the harness unless you know what you are doing. I've been doing this since I was a kid so probably close to 27 years. It looks a mess but it all makes complete sense if you understand what you are looking at. interesting note, if you don't know how the alternator light works, the voltage regulator controls voltage by rapidly switching the voltage on and off to the field coil. it's eithier on + or off grounded. one side of the lamp is connected to + whenever the key is on, the other side is connected to the field, when the system is charging + voltage from the coil is connected to the other side of the lamp, and no current flows, if it stops charging, that changes to - and the lamp comes on. the positive voltage from field also powers the coil on the automatic choke, if your alternator quits, your choke closes, what a design. they've been like that on Hondas as long as I can remember. the positive voltage from the field also tells the oil flasher unit it can operate if needed, and lets the carb control unit know it's working. the FI computer has an extra wire on the alternator to do this, both carb and FI sense RPM from the ignition as well
lostforawhile
11-29-2010, 12:54 AM
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021863.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021865.jpg
Dr_Snooz
11-29-2010, 09:47 AM
Dr.Snooze you rock!! electrical trouble shooting manual!!! I have all the wires out under the fender, so tomorrow time to start pruning :D
Thank W261W261 for letting me tear apart and scan his ETM. Thank you W261W261!
lostforawhile
11-29-2010, 06:29 PM
When I can i will sign up for a basic hosting site and host the manual in the technical section. I'm sure you can get a basic subscription for a few bucks a month. I discovered several wires in the harness have the same colors, so i'm tracing them to make sure I have the right ones. it's just a matter of putting the meter on audiable continuity, grounding one probe, and grounding the wire at the device in question. when you hear it, it's the right wire.
when these wires get insulated, i'm using two layers of heat shrink, then taping them. this is the starter solonoid wire. if you ever see an old weller soldering gun, get it, the heavy duty ones, the new ones are crap. I think i paid 5 bucks for mine at the pawn shop, they thought it was broke, the screws holding the tip were loose. the lights in them never work.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021866.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021867.jpg
since I don't have ac, i'm using the old ac delay box to prevent the voice box from talking during the bulb check when you turn on the ignition. gives you a five second on delay
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021868.jpg
lostforawhile
11-29-2010, 11:34 PM
came in for a quick break, it's 2:23 am here, got a lot done, I'm trying to reuse what I can, I used the old 7 pin weathertight connector from the AC for oil pressure switch, temp sender, backup lights, the two wires that let me override the fan temp switch, and something else, i need to look at my notes, it's odd that the alternator uses heavy wires for the plug all the way to the multi pin connector, then it changes to light gauge wire on the other side. I reused the old heavy connecter from the EFE heater to pull power from the main fuse for it, to my headlight fuse block. most everything is wrapped, but i still need to cover unused wires and wrap the center section of the harness, They don't make split loom that big, so I'll cut a section from some small innertubes to cover it, for abrasion resistance. back out there as soon as I have caffeine. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021869.jpg
lostforawhile
11-30-2010, 03:02 PM
I cleaned up my back room in the house, so parts that are removed are now in the house, that gives me more room to work. I'm going to go out there and start cleaning, I FINALLY found my good cleaner, so i can scrub down that area and paint it. it takes a couple of days for the paint to dry, so I need to get it done, then i can put these nice cleaned up harnesses back in, the fuse box back in, and the oil cooler assembly back in. that bottle of cleaner has been under the house for four years, i also found my missing power steering pump , not my good one, but my old one
wh1skea
11-30-2010, 04:34 PM
what model Weller would you suggest?
lostforawhile
11-30-2010, 05:30 PM
what model Weller would you suggest?
I have an older commercial model, they are around you just have to look. I think it's a 200/260 watt model good iron it was a USA made one, I think they are made in China now
lostforawhile
11-30-2010, 09:48 PM
got everything scrubbed and painted, I'll post pictures after a while, it's pouring rain right now, I don't know long it will take that paint to dry, it's like tractor paint, good for areas like the underhood, I'm doing a section at a time, and eventually everything under the hood will be painted. I had it color matched to factory, The person mixing it at the hardware store said the same thing that they said mixing the paint for the body, boy this paint has a lot of blue in it. you would never know. it may take a couple of days to dry like the other side.
lostforawhile
11-30-2010, 10:30 PM
I'll take pictures of everything painted tomorrow, I did take a couple of pics of the overflow tank while it was out. it'll be nice to see all these parts i made in there with fresh paint, instead of dirt
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021872.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021870.jpg
lostforawhile
11-30-2010, 11:08 PM
the cleaner was under my house for 4 years i thought it was gone.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021876.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021877.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021873.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021874.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021875.jpg
Dr_Snooz
11-30-2010, 11:12 PM
Dude, do you really think you'll be running by summer? I've been on the board over 3 years and your car has been in production the whole time! I'm excited for you bro!
lostforawhile
11-30-2010, 11:16 PM
Dude, do you really think you'll be running by summer? I've been on the board over 3 years and your car has been in production the whole time! I'm excited for you bro!
i'm going to put everything back together and see where i need to go from there i know the carbs will be the big issue, i'm going to watch for an already rebuilt set from an early z car, they will bolt right up, linkages and all. basically the same thing.
lostforawhile
11-30-2010, 11:56 PM
in a couple of days that paint will take on the sickly yellow white of the factory paint, the other side matches really well , once it's set, i'll put these harnesses back in and reinstall everything
lostforawhile
12-03-2010, 11:36 PM
well it's 2:24 am and 40 degrees and i'm out here working with shirtsleeves,
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021895.jpg
the harness is all bundled back up and pulled back into the engine compartment. I still have a few wires to add plugs to, i'm going to have to run to walmart to get extra long wire ties to secure the wire bundle.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021889.jpg
checking clearance for the wiring for the headlights
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021891.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021893.jpg
I have to repaint the catch can, but you can see where i had to notch the oil cooler mounting tray to clear
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021892.jpg
where the bundle goes through the inner fender, it gets wrapped with rubber, i cut up an innertube, and foam like it was factory.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021896.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021897.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021898.jpg
once all this is secured i need to make the engine subharness that plugs into it.
lostforawhile
12-04-2010, 03:35 AM
just came in, it's 6:32 :D
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021900.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021902.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021903.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021904.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021905.jpg
lostforawhile
12-04-2010, 09:45 AM
back out there in a few
lostforawhile
12-04-2010, 02:21 PM
If you get rid of the factory coil, and use a different ignition box, you need to add a 2.2 K resistor in line between the blue wire from the distributor, and the tach wire going into the car. I know some people have just connected them together, but this is a current limiting resistor, and you could do damage. That tach wire feeds the tach, the carb and Fi ecu, the AC delay box, and the fuel pump relay on the carb. with the factory coil, the resistor is inside of the coil itself. I wanted a secure place to mount it, since a bad connection will stop your car in the road, so this is what I did,
I took a cheap chinese relay that had a built in plug, removed the top, I then cut off the contacts inside, leaving just the base and four copper connections to the pins. I took my resistor, soldered it across two of the connectors
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021907.jpg
cut off the excess lead length
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021908.jpg
then used potting epoxy to secure everything in place
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021909.jpg
finally reassembled the top, a little black fusion paint, and secured to the strut tower.
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021911.jpg
lostforawhile
12-04-2010, 02:30 PM
I wanted to add, if you add an ignition box inside of the car like I did, you can tap the tach wire under the blower fan, look for the AC delay box, it should be a white box bolted to the bottom of the blower motor assembly, it was say HVAC delay box on it, tap the blue wire, this is the tach wire, it goes to that box because the box has an ac clutch rev limiter built in. if the engine rpm goes too high to be safe for the AC compressor, the box disconnects the ac compressor clutch relay. this is needed because the compressor has a lower redline then the engine, I don't remember off the top of my head what it was
87roach
12-04-2010, 05:35 PM
So for anyone who is running or is looking to run an msd box and or coil should be adding those inline resistors?
Why did you use a relay to house it? Couldn't you just cut the wire, strip the ends, put the resister in there, solder it, then put a length of heat shrink to cover the whole thing? Or is that too flimsy and the reason you used the relay?
lostforawhile
12-04-2010, 10:43 PM
So for anyone who is running or is looking to run an msd box and or coil should be adding those inline resistors?
Why did you use a relay to house it? Couldn't you just cut the wire, strip the ends, put the resister in there, solder it, then put a length of heat shrink to cover the whole thing? Or is that too flimsy and the reason you used the relay?
i used the relay to give a solid mounting point to the resistor, i don't trust it just inline, especially since the resistor leads are solid wire. if you bypass the original coil i would add it, it's inside of the coil inline with that wire going into the harness. all of the other circuits were designed with it there. your fuel pump relay, ecu or carb controls, cruise contol,tach,AC delay box, and fan delay for the FI car
lostforawhile
12-04-2010, 11:16 PM
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/2010-12-05_020957.png
some of the wires aren't bundled or have split loom yet, but I need to get all the wire lengths right first
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021921.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021920.jpg
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021919.jpg
lostforawhile
12-05-2010, 12:21 AM
am i the only one here who enjoys taking an entire wiring harness apart and redesigning everything?
87roach
12-05-2010, 09:25 AM
Yes, I think so.
It's pretty daunting for most people I assume and not exactly necessary.
I'd like to simplify mine though, take out what I don't need and clean it up so you're not the only one :P
lostforawhile
12-05-2010, 09:53 AM
you can always tell when someone has changed a bunch of stuff around at a car show, becaue they'll have old wires, and deteriorated loom and unused plugs everywhere. I see it all the time. it looks like crap. this eliminates all of that, and it's also a way to replace all the underhood wiring. 25 years of heat in the south isn't good to the wiring. anything out of the engine compartment looks brand new though. they used pretty high quality wire, look at a dometic this age and the wires all through the car are deteriorating. I usually go to the yard, pull harnesses out of japanese cars, and unwap them to get wire, the wire always looks new, and way cheaper then anything off the shelf. at the least replace that alternator primary wire, for some reason at Honda they always use undersized wire for it, and the wire gets really hot. The wire barely meets the size requirements for the altenator output, and when you figure in length and increased resistance from underhood heat, it's really too small, they usually get really hot within six inches of the alternator. at the minimum that wire should be six gauge not eight. also thats copper wire, not the copper coated aluminum wire they often sell in amplifier kits, it has a much lower capacity then pure copper
lostforawhile
12-07-2010, 11:24 AM
I noticed something odd on the civic which has the h4 bulbs factory, the main fuse for the headlamp circuit is only 30 amps. I was going to change the PTC fuse in my under hood fuse box to 40 amps since it now only powers my headlights, but seeing that the factory H4 lamps only have a 30 amp fuse, i'll leave it as it is. I assume the difference might be the other lighting on the circuit as well as the dash lights, those are still powered from the factory main fuse for lighting. I split the PTC main fuse into a fuse block with four fuses just like factory. the factory switch now only controls the running lights, etc, and four relays for the lights. this takes a big load off of that switch, plus a more direct route for current to reach the lamps, those switches were always overloaded, not just in this car, but a lot of other Honda's. the switch is built pretty much the same as early 80's Honda's, a lot of them came with old non halogen lamps, and had halogens installed as they became more popular. the older lamps didn't use as much current . It seems they kept on using the same design as older cars. My 81 civic service manual here lists both the non halogen type as standard and the halogen as an upgrade. I'm old enough to remember going to the store and having a choice in sealed beam lamps on the shelf. I think they dropped the ball on making these switches more heavy duty, to keep up with the newer lamps. This is probably why so many people have had a light contact burn out and the switch hang up between the two.
lostforawhile
12-07-2010, 12:07 PM
ignore what I said about using the tach wire for the AC delay to fire the MSD box, MSD says I need to tie the box in before the resistor, in other worrds the blue wire from the dizzy goes through the resistor to the other circuits that use a tach signal, the blue wire going into the harness, it still has to be there for them, but I just need to tap the blue wire before the resistor for the msd box itself.
lostforawhile
12-09-2010, 07:56 PM
this is the harness for the temp sender, oil pressure sender, backup lights, dizzy, and the relay that lets me turn on the fan if needed, the relay looking thing is the resistor the the ignition if you are just starting to read this. The orange is heat shield where the harness is near one of the braided hoses for coolant, I need to pull the radiator back out again to run the wires for the alternator, the backup lamps, and anchor the wiring harness for the fans http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021922.jpg
Hazwan
12-09-2010, 11:06 PM
am i the only one here who enjoys taking an entire wiring harness apart and redesigning everything?
Me me me me me!!
wh1skea
12-10-2010, 05:35 AM
I, myself, enjoy doing electrical work on my cars more than anything. I think I'm gonna attempt a similar feat with my 94 Accord sedan once I get the engine pulled in it. Just gotta find a good wire diagram. My hatch might get the same treatment after I get the sedan up and running.
lostforawhile
12-10-2010, 11:45 AM
I, myself, enjoy doing electrical work on my cars more than anything. I think I'm gonna attempt a similar feat with my 94 Accord sedan once I get the engine pulled in it. Just gotta find a good wire diagram. My hatch might get the same treatment after I get the sedan up and running.
I'm glad snooze got that electrical manual scanned, it was a nightmare trying to piece together stuff from pieces and parts of diagrams, the wiring itself is easy, it's knowing what everything goes to thats the problem
lostforawhile
12-10-2010, 11:35 PM
got some free multipin plugs from several accords he was crushing at the yard, late model ones, he just crushes everything, engine, transmission, interior, whatever. the short end of the plugs will get soldered into the harness inside of the car, this is the passenger side fuse panel, this is the tedious stuff, putting it all together then marking the wires after verifying with a meter
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021926.jpg?t=1292052729
lostforawhile
12-16-2010, 07:24 PM
I went out to the plant and spent a good part of the day making these pieces, I wanted a cover to go over the fuses, and I've been trying to figure out how, I need to blast everything and paint it yet, but you get the idea. I'm going to make the lexan piece bigger then it is, but this is what it will look like, I added the piece between the back of the fuse panel, and the four posts and lexan cover. I machined the four posts out of 1/4 rod, they are threaded on the bottom for the screws, and the tops are drilled for the two safety pin type fasteners, you just pop them off, and the cover comes off for fuse access. it sits recessed on the tops of the posts. I'm going to mask off two strips where the fuses are, and paint the rest black. I'm going to use indicator fuses, when a fuse blows, an LED in it glows. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021937.jpg
lostforawhile
12-21-2010, 10:46 AM
the other night at about 3 am
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021939.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021941.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021942.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021943.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021940.jpg
lostforawhile
12-23-2010, 10:05 PM
I decided to move the radio from under the seat, so I'm reusing the aluminum plate it was mounted to, and putting the MSD box and solonoid for the fuse box under the passenger seat, It shouldn't affect the coil too much, the factory length wires to the coil almost reach the firewall as it is and I only have to lengthen them only slightly. high voltage can travel further without as much loss anyway. I'll tape those wires to the floorpan and use some shielding tape over them, to prevent interference. I used flathead machine screws and threaded the plate to make studs for the box and the solonoid. I'm going to use shielded wire for the dizzy signal too to prevent problems. it has to run away from the high voltage coil wire. I have to take this entire thing apart to prime and paint the plate, and still have to paint the floorpan under where it goes. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd158/lostforawhile/S4021947.jpg
lostforawhile
12-26-2010, 10:33 PM
here's the plate with the box and the solenoid for the fuse panel under the dash, since the output of the module in the dizzy now only is a trigger signal, I used audio cable which has a shielding braid, the braid gets grounded on both ends, to prevent interference with the trigger signal, the entire plate everything is mounted to, has a grounding stud, and will ground to an unused threaded hole on the back of the passenger seat mount. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/moultriemanicmechanic/S4021971.jpg
b20a86lude
01-06-2011, 06:22 PM
duddddde im in lovvve with ur project. im actually trying to redesign my harness but not hack just remove the wires i dont use anymore. .i really need ur help on the fittings for the fuel . for my si fi. lude. so please help me with wires and the fittings . please im so confised when it comes to this,
lostforawhile
01-06-2011, 06:33 PM
duddddde im in lovvve with ur project. im actually trying to redesign my harness but not hack just remove the wires i dont use anymore. .i really need ur help on the fittings for the fuel . for my si fi. lude. so please help me with wires and the fittings . please im so confised when it comes to this,
what do you need help with?
integratuner77
01-12-2011, 06:39 AM
here's the plate with the box and the solenoid for the fuse panel under the dash, since the output of the module in the dizzy now only is a trigger signal, I used audio cable which has a shielding braid, the braid gets grounded on both ends, to prevent interference with the trigger signal, the entire plate everything is mounted to, has a grounding stud, and will ground to an unused threaded hole on the back of the passenger seat mount.
You dont want to ground the shielding on both ends. This will only cause grounding loops. You want the shielding to be grounded at the sensor end.
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