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View Full Version : A/C or No A/C?



ACE_14
04-07-2010, 09:07 AM
Next week i'm pulling my engine to put in that JDM A20 I just picked up. I'm not sure if I want to keep the A/C or not. It'll save me a bit of weight and clean up the bay too, but will I miss it in the summer. What do you guys think, Keep it or Dump it?

2drSE-i
04-07-2010, 09:35 AM
if it works now, definitely keep it. If not, ditch it.

ACE_14
04-07-2010, 10:32 AM
It seems like everything works, just isn't COLD air.

charliekuney
04-07-2010, 10:41 AM
if it works now, definitely keep it.


It seems like everything works, just isn't COLD air.


If not, ditch it.

Vanilla Sky
04-07-2010, 10:48 AM
Keep it and make it work. To us in FL, a car is worth almost nothing with a non-working or removed AC. If it runs and has AC, $1000 is about the least you're gonna pay. Not to mention that you're gonna have a hell of a time in LA with no AC. At least I would.

ACE_14
04-07-2010, 12:24 PM
I've done OK in the past with-out A/C. I was just at PepBoys and I happened to see the R-134 Retrofit kit and took a look at it. Maybe I will keep it. Not sure though.

nswst8
04-07-2010, 12:27 PM
Keep it, fix it, it isn't difficult. And I would only put in R-12. There is to much of it still around not to have it in your system. I still have 40-50lbs of it. And I'm not an A/C tech.

Weak point in the denso/keihin is at the expansion valve on the evap. easy fix. And on the Keihin suction connect.

These systems are so easy to work on, it's foolish not to keep cool A/C running on them.

ACE_14
04-07-2010, 01:45 PM
You willing to sell some of that R-12? No one around here has any. My dad tried looking around for his wagon. What exactly's really needed to keep it going?

ShyBoyCA6
04-07-2010, 02:47 PM
put r 134 with a r 12 tip thats what i did you can get it at pepboys its a kit for 50$

nswst8
04-07-2010, 03:04 PM
You willing to sell some of that R-12? No one around here has any. My dad tried looking around for his wagon. What exactly's really needed to keep it going?

Ebay, as long as you sign a letter of statement. That you are solely purchasing for the specific use of your own vehicle and that you are not purchasing with the intent of resale.

Hell it's only $20 and 25 questions to get your licence to purchase it. Practically open book.

www.epa.gov

cubert
04-07-2010, 03:06 PM
keep it. Not having A/C sucks.

Tdurr
04-07-2010, 11:17 PM
psh. real men don't need ac.

A18A
04-07-2010, 11:26 PM
about 3 months a year i wish i had a/c, the other 9 i could do without. so that made up my mind lol

MessyHonda
04-07-2010, 11:44 PM
mine never worked so im taking it out....i tinted all the windows on my car tho...i say keep it...just that weekend i was in LA i needed ac

stephensimmons
04-08-2010, 07:08 AM
Keep it.

Harrison_Bergeron
04-08-2010, 09:56 AM
Are people doing anything to delete the A/c controls in the cabin when they remove the a/c system? I am considering removing my a/c, I only use the a/c in my truck when CA is burning and I can't take the smell anymore, so I see little reason to keep it in my gas saver.

2drSE-i
04-08-2010, 10:03 AM
Are people doing anything to delete the A/c controls in the cabin when they remove the a/c system? I am considering removing my a/c, I only use the a/c in my truck when CA is burning and I can't take the smell anymore, so I see little reason to keep it in my gas saver.

I don't think so. Most people retain those for the blower/heater functions.

nswst8
04-08-2010, 10:26 AM
psh. real men don't need ac.

Real men know how to fix their A/C.:cheers:

2drSE-i
04-08-2010, 10:29 AM
Real men know how to fix their A/C.:cheers:

He just doesn't remember summer, its been like 9 months since it was 100+. I for one remember Import Alliance...

Harrison_Bergeron
04-08-2010, 11:55 AM
I don't think so. Most people retain those for the blower/heater functions.

Would anyone happen to know if DX controls will work with the LX-i blower/heater?

Also, how do you know if your system still has refrigerant or not? Is a lack of cold air enough of a sign that it would be safe to open the system?

nswst8
04-08-2010, 02:21 PM
You can depress the schrader valve and see if anything is released. Otherwise put a set of gauges on it.

If anything is in the system the pressures will be equal and close to the outside temperature. Engine off. This will only indicate if anything is in the system. How much is still unknown until you get the compressor to engage. Jumping the low pressure switch on the drier.

ACE_14
04-15-2010, 10:01 AM
I think I'm just gonna pull the A/C. I can always put in back on later if I feel that I need it.

2oodoor
04-15-2010, 10:21 AM
keep it, having done this swap I left mine off.. regret it now
Zero modification needed to keep in there but removing the compressor and brackets makes shoe horning the motor in there easier during install.

russiankid
04-15-2010, 12:13 PM
Keep. I know several members were jealous at the 2009 East Coats meet when it was 100F+ that day and I was one of the only ones to have ice cold A/C in the car.:thumbup:

2drSE-i
04-15-2010, 12:19 PM
Keep. I know several members were jealous at the 2009 East Coats meet when it was 100F+ that day and I was one of the only ones to have ice cold A/C in the car.:thumbup:

I didnt go to that one, but ImportAlliance was the same situation. 2 people had A/C and everyone else was panting like dogs... LOL

russiankid
04-15-2010, 02:26 PM
I didnt go to that one, but ImportAlliance was the same situation. 2 people had A/C and everyone else was panting like dogs... LOL

Haha, indeed. When the people from CT rolled up, I had my car running to keep it cool and I believe it was Steve who looked at my car and was like " A/C...fucker."

Civic Accord Honda
04-15-2010, 03:20 PM
if its the pump that can be retro fitted to r134a or w/e its called keep it! otherwise ditch it! , i retrofitted my 4g and filled her up and been working good since October ^_^

nfs480
04-15-2010, 04:35 PM
Speaking of A/C, now that it's spring and it's getting warm, anyone got any ideas to help me figure out why my A/C quit working? The system itself seems fine but I have an electrical problem, every time I turn on the A/C the fuse blows. Any ideas on how to go about diagnosing this?

russiankid
04-15-2010, 04:58 PM
Check the box that is bolted to the blower motor. Sits near the passenger foot well. Mine some how accumulated water in it, and it had the compressor on constantly.

nswst8
04-16-2010, 07:03 AM
Speaking of A/C, now that it's spring and it's getting warm, anyone got any ideas to help me figure out why my A/C quit working? The system itself seems fine but I have an electrical problem, every time I turn on the A/C the fuse blows. Any ideas on how to go about diagnosing this?

Check for open/grounded shorts, A locked compressor clutch can cause the fuse to blow as well.

LX-incredible
04-16-2010, 11:09 AM
I'd start by unplugging the clutch coil and checking the resistance. The wire's insulation tends to get removed by dragging on the pulley, or from vibrating against its little clamp on the compressor.

nfs480
04-16-2010, 08:27 PM
The compressor clutch engages for like 30 seconds and runs before the fuse blows, for a while I could fix the problem by using a slightly larger fuse but now those blow as well and i'm not using anything higher than a 20 AMP, so I don't think the clutch is frozen. I'll check your other suggestions tomorrow, also, where are the grounds I should be checking for this problem?

ACE_14
04-17-2010, 02:41 PM
Well, I guess it was a good thing I didn't start ripping out the A/c yet. I guess the guy who had it before me already converted it to R-134:

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2783/2221/31956110029_medium.jpg http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2783/2221/31956110028_medium.jpg

I guess that's my answer: Keep the A/C!

These are the R-134 fittings right??

Civic Accord Honda
04-17-2010, 03:02 PM
is one bigger then the other and had a red cap and blue cap? but yeah they look like r134a im pretty sure r12 had the tire valve style fittings lol. now get a can of freon with oil in it and stop leak from kmart that includes the hose and pressure gauge! ( you will probably have to jump the compressor at first since it wont kick on if its low on pressure)

ACE_14
04-17-2010, 03:21 PM
There were no caps on them, but ya, one is bigger than the other. I'm glad I noticed it before I ripped it out. My girlfriend will be happy too.

nfs480
04-17-2010, 05:01 PM
Looks like my compressor clutch is bad, but I have a keihin which means I need to convert to the Denso compressor. But there's no way I can afford $641 from Majestic! I posted in the wanted section (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72495) looking for a cheaper solution.

Civic Accord Honda
04-17-2010, 07:03 PM
There were no caps on them, but ya, one is bigger than the other. I'm glad I noticed it before I ripped it out. My girlfriend will be happy too.

true, fill up with the small one i think your know when u get the freon which to plug it in to

LX-incredible
04-17-2010, 09:51 PM
Well, I guess it was a good thing I didn't start ripping out the A/c yet. I guess the guy who had it before me already converted it to R-134:

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2783/2221/31956110029_medium.jpg http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2783/2221/31956110028_medium.jpg

I guess that's my answer: Keep the A/C!

These are the R-134 fittings right??

Awesome. $35 beantastic walmart R134a conversion. I'd have even less faith in a non-functioning AC system with those fittings on there. Just means someone before you had a leak and decided that instead of repairing it properly they'd convert it.

6eHonda
04-19-2010, 09:26 AM
So, I'm hearing mixed results about the A/C. Some are saying doing the conversion is not the right way to fix it, what is your idea of the right way to fix it? I mean are you against converting it to R134, or are you just against doing it without replacing the compressor and air dryer unit? I'd love to get some tint or a recharged A/C in my new DX..

I vote keep it.

LX-incredible
04-19-2010, 11:46 AM
A proper conversion is not the same as throwing as throwing a couple of fittings on there, venting what is left in the system, and adding oil with retrofit and stop leak additives and charging. Mineral oil will not mix with the 134a, adding to inefficiency.

I'm not against the conversion. With a complete flush, vacuum evacuation, new drier, o-rings, and a good compressor, it can provide years of service. However, it isn't as efficient as the old R12 and you're going to notice the difference in hot climates. Head pressures will be higher increasing the chance of leaks and compressor failure. R134a molecules are smaller than R12 and will leak out faster. This is why it's a good idea to replace o-rings and those stiff leaky hoses.

I have converted several vehicles years ago, all of which still have functioning AC. I don't bother with converting now as I have the required licenses and buy 30 lb cylinders of R12 for $300, which works out to $7.50 for 12 oz (about the same as a 12 oz can of R134a at the parts stores). I still go through the system and repair the leaks...

If you put the time into it and use the proper equipment, it will turn out fine.

nswst8
04-19-2010, 12:24 PM
I agree with Angus. Although I have seen a very few shadetree conversion they were not without their problems.

As stated the increase in head pressure alone will dramatically decrease the life of your compressor. If not "PROPERLY" maintained.

These systems are not difficult to work on. They are straight forward and simple to maintain.

I have alot of A/C work on the side right now with alot of vehicles. And it's all about maintainence.

6eHonda
04-19-2010, 12:53 PM
I agree with Angus. Although I have seen a very few shadetree conversion they were not without their problems.

As stated the increase in head pressure alone will dramatically decrease the life of your compressor. If not "PROPERLY" maintained.

These systems are not difficult to work on. They are straight forward and simple to maintain.

I have alot of A/C work on the side right now with alot of vehicles. And it's all about maintainence.

Thank you guys for the clarification. It's starting to get hot here in Colorado and it will probably be a warm summer. I just purchased my 89 DX and the A/C blows air that is colder than the fresh air coming in from outside but not much cooler. Basically, you would recommend taking it to a pro to get it leak-tested/fixed and recharged?

2drSE-i
04-19-2010, 01:53 PM
Either of you guys ever used freeze12? Its supposed to be the poor mans legally obtained R12? Haven't heard much bad about it, but as the resident AC experts id love to hear your opinions.

nfs480
04-19-2010, 01:56 PM
I was beginning to wonder, since i'm too cheap to convert to the denso compressor, what all would be involved in converting back to R12? Or could I switch to something like that Freeze12 without doing any converting and just replace my current compressor with a cheap reman keihin? Any opinions?

nswst8
04-19-2010, 01:58 PM
Either of you guys ever used freeze12? Its supposed to be the poor mans legally obtained R12? Haven't heard much bad about it, but as the resident AC experts id love to hear your opinions.

I personally have never used freeze12 but a Army post autoshop in Texas was using it with good results in TX. Just follow the guidelines.

Personally, I would not use it just because it is to easy to obtain R12. I used R134a for 10 years with a Keihin compressor. Texas heat proved to be to much for R134a conversion. So I just took it back to R12.

2drSE-i
04-19-2010, 02:00 PM
I was beginning to wonder, since i'm too cheap to convert to the denso compressor, what all would be involved in converting back to R12? Or could I switch to something like that Freeze12 without doing any converting and just replace my current compressor with a cheap reman keihin? Any opinions?

Freeze12 supposedly mixes just fine with R12 and it uses the same oil. The weak point in the whole keihin system is the compressor. Which would be why most SE-i's no longer have working A/C...

nfs480
04-19-2010, 02:01 PM
Do you think Freeze12 would mix with 134a?

2drSE-i
04-19-2010, 02:03 PM
Do you think Freeze12 would mix with 134a?

No, they have totally different weights and structure. Like they said above, the R134a is much smaller than the R12.

nswst8
04-19-2010, 04:39 PM
Do you think Freeze12 would mix with 134a?

I would not mix them.

nswst8
04-19-2010, 04:42 PM
If you have a solid working accord, it makes no sense not to invest into getting the a/c working.

I personally will never go without a/c, it's to easy to get these things running.

nfs480
04-19-2010, 04:44 PM
Mine's just really rusting out and while i'm going to try and do some DIY rust repair this summer I just don't feel right spending $641 for a denso conversion kit.

russiankid
04-19-2010, 04:52 PM
If you have a solid working accord, it makes no sense not to invest into getting the a/c working.

I personally will never go without a/c, it's to easy to get these things running.

Easy, yes. Cheap, no. :devil:

LX-incredible
04-19-2010, 05:27 PM
Mine's just really rusting out and while i'm going to try and do some DIY rust repair this summer I just don't feel right spending $641 for a denso conversion kit.

Isn't your problem with the clutch? I've got at least 2 Keihins sitting around here. I can pull the clutch, pulley, and coil; you pay the shipping.

nfs480
04-19-2010, 05:29 PM
Do the keihin's themselves still work? I don't have the proper tools or the knowledge on how to replace the clutch so I think i'd might as well replace the whole unit. I'm also suspecting the compressor itself has a leak, I had to jump the compressor to test the clutch because there wasn't any system pressure and I had it charged last august.

nswst8
04-19-2010, 06:10 PM
On the Keihin compressor my leak was at the suction line. (It's at the bottom) This is a weak point of these compressors.

nfs480
04-19-2010, 06:19 PM
So does that involve just changing the O-Ring at the connection point?

nswst8
04-19-2010, 07:04 PM
So does that involve just changing the O-Ring at the connection point?

Yes, the second most common leak is at the expansion valve.

nfs480
04-19-2010, 07:09 PM
Yes, the second most common leak is at the expansion valve.

Thanks, I really appreciate this valuable information. Now all I need are a few days off from school to check some of this stuff out. I'm thinking about buying another keihin and seeing how long I can run it on 134a since it'd only cost me $150 vs. $641 for the conversion kit (could replace the keihin a couple of times for that money), you said you ran yours for 10 years on 134a? I got 3 years out of mine before the clutch locked up.

nswst8
04-19-2010, 10:47 PM
I converted to R134a in 1997 and ran it for almost 12 years. I took it back to R12 in 2008/09 after I found out that I can indeed find R12 for it. Most shops just don't have the equipment any longer to service R12. It's not cost effective.

But I am not your everyday honda owner. I have invested in the tools over the years to be able do as I wish with the cars that I own.

Working on my own vehicles over the years have saved me thousands and thousands of dollars even after buying the tools nessasary for the jobs.

nfs480
04-21-2010, 06:55 PM
Well, I purchased this remanufactured Keihin compressor (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220586610243&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1367wt_762), hopefully i'll be able to get at least a couple of years out of it with R134a. Any tips for installing it?

whitekight
05-05-2010, 05:45 AM
You can put LPG into a R12 system with no conversion and its mega cold

A18A
05-11-2010, 12:30 AM
just dont give it any chance to go BOOM