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View Full Version : click click click goes the cv joint



w261w261
04-18-2010, 01:32 PM
it just started and isn't loud yet. Any estimates on how many miles I can go before things are serious? Thx.

A18A
04-18-2010, 01:37 PM
apparently they could just fail whenever they want. but we have done thousands of km's on clicky cv joints without failure.. yet

carotman
04-18-2010, 04:41 PM
As long as you don't get vibrations or clicks when you're going in a straight line, the joint can last quite long

Is the boot torn?

paul
04-18-2010, 05:46 PM
Each of my CVs had the "click" happen as a result of torn boots & grease leaking out, I drove on each for almost 10k miles before replacing them; both appeared to be in very good shape too, just had a very slight amount of play.

As long as it's not screeching or binding up it should last quite some time.

w261w261
04-18-2010, 05:49 PM
I check the boots every time I change the oil, so as of 2,000 mi ago they were fine.... They've been in there for a loooong time - honda OEM.

Nio
04-18-2010, 07:51 PM
Yea mine are clicking too.

BTW how hard is it to replace them. >.> I was thinking about the whole thing, *when I do my engine overhaul* but I'm not sure yet, still a few months away.

2oodoor
04-19-2010, 03:43 AM
I check the boots every time I change the oil, so as of 2,000 mi ago they were fine.... They've been in there for a loooong time - honda OEM.

wow that is amazing...
I wonder if the grease just dried all up , too bad it is more work to replace the boots proper with new grease than it is to just get some reman axle assemblies.

w261w261
04-19-2010, 05:40 AM
wow that is amazing...
I wonder if the grease just dried all up , too bad it is more work to replace the boots proper with new grease than it is to just get some reman axle assemblies.

I didn't mean they were the original axles. I meant that when I last replaced them that I bought Honda remanufactured ones, but it was so long ago that I can't remember when. They're probably twice the price of the cheaper ones, but I bet they last more than twice as long.

2oodoor
04-19-2010, 07:01 AM
:uh: oh hah..
Usually the demise for cvj is lack of lubrication and protection from the elements, that said those things could transfer motion for years without giving any problems otherwise.

Joay
04-19-2010, 07:04 AM
Yea mine are clicking too.

BTW how hard is it to replace them. >.> I was thinking about the whole thing, *when I do my engine overhaul* but I'm not sure yet, still a few months away.
Super easy. I changed one a couple weeks ago (now the other one is making noise), never done an axle before, can be done in half an hour per side easily.

Biggest hang-up I had was the tie rod end being kind of stuck. The solution is to smack the knuckle with a hammer.

nfs480
04-19-2010, 11:36 AM
I just replaced the original factory CV axles on my SE-i a few weeks ago with reman axles from O'reilly's. Mine were far worse though, they were really vibrating driving in a straight line. I also recommend using a pitman tie-rod puller to separate the lower ball joint, available at most auto part store's loan-a-tool and make it super easy to separate.

Edison Carasio
04-20-2010, 06:24 AM
I just bought two new ones from O'reillys this weekend. The passenger side is clicking but when I replace the clutch and have the axles out anyway I may as well do both now.

w261w261
04-20-2010, 07:18 AM
I don't know if it really makes a difference, but whenever I've replaced an axle, I take the opportunity to replace the 5 spd fluid with Honda MTF. At 225k, so far no problems with the synchros, except sometimes I have to be a little careful with 3rd.

Edison Carasio
04-20-2010, 07:56 AM
+1 for Honda MTF. Expensive though. Cost me like $30 for two quarts and some Hondabond.

SFCA1987lx
05-02-2010, 04:48 PM
Just put a new cv shaft in, its not that hard. Tire off, 32 mm socket needed for the end of the shaft in the center of the rotor. that comes off, knock the tie rod out, knock the ball joint out, and use a pry bar to get the shaft out. i dont think im missing any steps, someone correct me if i am

markmdz89hatch
05-03-2010, 01:33 PM
...and while I'm at it I usually always replace the axle seal on the tranny because it's easy, cheap and some added insurance.

Hal, if you need any help or even want an axle, I have a few spares in damn near perfect shape. I'd be happy to swing by one evening and help out. ...plus I've got to show you the new toy (think: 2 wheels) but enough of the thread-jacking.

stat1K
05-03-2010, 04:06 PM
+1 for Honda MTF. Expensive though. Cost me like $30 for two quarts and some Hondabond.

you got ripped, 7 dollars a quart for mtf and 5 dollars a tube for hondabond.

Dr_Snooz
05-03-2010, 06:16 PM
you got ripped, 7 dollars a quart for mtf and 5 dollars a tube for hondabond.

Yikes! Yes you did. The most important phrase to remember when at the dealer is: "Can you give me a discount on that?"

carotman
05-04-2010, 04:08 AM
Well 30 bucks isn't that bad. It depends where you live. Some states have sales tax that will raise the price quicker.

Accordtheory
05-04-2010, 05:00 PM
The axles in my car for my b series swap have clicked around turns from day 1. I don't really care, as long as they don't break with 225 section width drag radials..

AccordB20A
05-05-2010, 01:36 AM
they break when you abuse them