Need advice asap.

[CzEcHy]

Ok here is the breakdown.

-New rebuilt OEM carb. (with mechanical secondary) 1 week old
-New fuel filters, 2 days old
-Newish fuel pump, Yearish old


Went on a drive today, got 20 miles then got on the offramp, battery light came on and stalled out while coming to a stop.

Pushed car, tried starting it, got it to start, wouldn't idle and stalled out.

WILL run if giving some gas
WILL start easily

Got the battery tested, came out perfect, got car to idle by raising idle to like 1200 then driving home doing like 95, car ran great, and didn't stall even at red lights.

Got 40 feet from home, car stalled when taking a corner and braking.

Float is set perfect + it was rebuilt anyway so..


Any ideas?


Oh ya, I forgot to reconnect the engine to frame ground today, could I of messed anything up or no? (I did reconnect it, didn't help)

Anybody? I have no resources for these carbs other than you guys. No one around here touches them.

Starts right back up.

And it runs rough, but I've noticed it runs and idles fine when cold, only runs rough and stalls when warm.

And the carb is a week old, shouldn't need seafoam, and I want to vac removal but I'm scared. lol


I already have mechanical secondary tho.

[stephensimmons]

So when it cuts off dose it start rite back up or dose it take a while? And when it starts dose it run rough at first or dose it run fine accept it wont idle?

kinda sounds like it mite be starving for fuel.....or you got a bad vaccum leak. If it starts rite back up that means that its not getting too much fuel because then it would take a lil to start. I would say you need to adjust the fuel mixture screws to richen it up a little. but first look for vaccum leaks before you start adjusting the carb.

[import racer]

Do the vac removal or seafoam that bitch.

[Dr_Snooz]

Sound like the idle circuit is hosed. There are people on here who know these carbs a LOT better than I ever will. Hopefully one of them will show up soon...

Failing that, just search around for idle circuit problem threads. You should be able to figure something out from those.

[CzEcHy]

I'm going to do the vac removal tomorrow hopefully (having a friend come explain the procedure to me since I'm apparently an idiot at the removal guide.)


Maybe that will work.

Also, which way do I turn to richen the mixture? I had it adjusted when I put on the new carb, (turned it to raise idle, then stopped when idle stopped raising, then adjusted throttle stop screw)


I need the car to idle properly, cause it drives great, just dies when slowing down to a stop or sitting.

[A20A1]

Braking and stalling sounds like a vacuum leak.

Problems when warm sounds like a mixture problem, possibly choke trouble?


Make sure both ground wires are connected, radiator support + thermostat housing.

Probably not your problem but there is a fuel cut off solenoid at the back of the carb, make sure that gets power.

Also want to make sure your coolant isn't leaking into the intake manifold from one of the gaskets between the carb and manifold, assuming your problem is when the motor is hot = cooling system under more pressure.



Did you adjust the idle and fuel mixture when the car was warmed up? If you did it when cold then you need to readjust the mixture, idle, and possibly the float. Make sure the engine is heated up.


Check engine oil level, radiator fluids....

[CzEcHy]

Did stage 1 + 3 + some of 2 all mixed into a random mess, vac removal.


Car runs, car idles fine (so far)..

Car seems to lack power tho? No idea.



Engine bay looks cleaner tho, and the car seems to run fine, so meh.

[stephensimmons]

Did stage 1 + 3 + some of 2 all mixed into a random mess, vac removal.


Car runs, car idles fine (so far)..

Car seems to lack power tho? No idea.



Engine bay looks cleaner tho, and the car seems to run fine, so meh.

Did it lack power before?

[CzEcHy]

Did it lack power before?

Well, it is a 4 cylinder carburated engine...

But no, it has less power now I believe, tho that was the test before I adjusted the idle and A/F mixture.

Maybe it'll be better now

[CzEcHy]

OK UPDATE.

Coolant getting into intake manifold = stalling correct?!

Gasket at base of carb is not really there so... coolant is pressurizing (hence why this happens when car is fully warm and driven for a few minutes), and seeping into the intake manifold.

Which would explain the stalling happening when I let my footoff the gas and get down to idle (not alot of gas at idle, and alot of coolant overpowering the gas = stall?)

Makes sense to me, someone agree with me.

[stephensimmons]

If thats whats happening it makes alot of sence

[CzEcHy]

Seems like that's whats happening.

I mean, I removed basically all the vacuum lines except like 4 or 5 of them, rest are plugged, all solenoids are removed along with dash pots and the white plastic dash pot looking things.


There isn't alot that could be wrong otherwise, but if it keeps up I guess I'll throw on my old carb and see if that fixes it, just won't have mechanical secondary I guess.


Other than the stalling, the car runs great, seems quicker and when I adjust the transmission since I've adjusted the throttle cable, it'll shift smoother and closer to redline.

[A20A1]

OK UPDATE.

Coolant getting into intake manifold = stalling correct?!

Gasket at base of carb is not really there so... coolant is pressurizing (hence why this happens when car is fully warm and driven for a few minutes), and seeping into the intake manifold.

Which would explain the stalling happening when I let my footoff the gas and get down to idle (not alot of gas at idle, and alot of coolant overpowering the gas = stall?)

Makes sense to me, someone agree with me.

I did agree with you in the post before yours...
so you are sure you're getting coolant in the manifold then?

[CzEcHy]

Yes I'm pretty sure.

When I pulled the carb I noticed coolant around the entire base, and some on the walls of the base.

(Lime green, easy to notice).


So I would assume this is the problem considering I removed any possible leaks vacuum and replaced the couple of hoses I needed with new ones.

So tommorow I'm getting a gasket, hopefully they ordered the right one.

[carotman]

Check if you have battery voltage at the idle solenoid at the back of the engine.

[CzEcHy]

Check if you have battery voltage at the idle solenoid at the back of the engine.



Back of the carb?

I suppose if it's broken, I have an extra from the old carb.

[CzEcHy]

Changed solenoid, replaced gasket at base of carb.

Still happening.


Ended up cracking the EFE or whatever thing, with the coolant hose going into the base of the carb.

Getting tired of this, I just want my car to idle and not die when coming to a stop.


I mean, maybe I should go back to using a dashpot to control the throttle so it'll control the idle I dunno.

Sick of this tho, no money for a weber or even more parts.

[greentee76]

So you changed the solenoid, but did you check that it is getting power? That solinoid gets power directly from the alternator, which could help explain why this problem started with a charging light coming on. If the solenoid does not recieve power it will not work, and if that solenoid does not work you will not idle.

[CzEcHy]

So you changed the solenoid, but did you check that it is getting power? That solinoid gets power directly from the alternator, which could help explain why this problem started with a charging light coming on. If the solenoid does not recieve power it will not work, and if that solenoid does not work you will not idle.


What color wire does it plug into? I have it going to some lime green wire, but that goes to the ignition coil....

[A20A1]

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EDIT: I forget what color the wire was... I think it was green with red stripe. I will try and find a diagram
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Braking and stalling sounds like a vacuum leak.

Problems when warm sounds like a mixture problem, possibly choke trouble?


Make sure both ground wires are connected, radiator support + thermostat housing.

Probably not your problem but there is a fuel cut off solenoid at the back of the carb, make sure that gets power.

Also want to make sure your coolant isn't leaking into the intake manifold from one of the gaskets between the carb and manifold, assuming your problem is when the motor is hot = cooling system under more pressure.



Did you adjust the idle and fuel mixture when the car was warmed up? If you did it when cold then you need to readjust the mixture, idle, and possibly the float. Make sure the engine is heated up.


Check engine oil level, radiator fluids....

Does it go to ignition switch?

Never mind I see it going to (Bu1) from the ignition coil
so you're right... just make sure it's getting power.

Also did your fuel cut off solenoid have the o-ring on it when you put it in?

[CzEcHy]

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.
.
.
..

EDIT: I forget what color the wire was... I think it was green with red stripe. I will try and find a diagram
.
.


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Does it go to ignition switch?

Never mind I see it going to (Bu1) from the ignition coil
so you're right... just make sure it's getting power.

Also did your fuel cut off solenoid have the o-ring on it when you put it in?

Yes had a new Oring gasket if that's what you mean.

I can't get it to idle, it idles like it has a MAJOR vaccum leak, yet there are only like 5 lines now, it starts slightly bucking under 2000RPM now, runs like total shit under 2000rpm.

I have to hold the gas while braking and turning, which sucks.

I'm running out of ideas.


I can't afford to take it somewhere (like anyone knows about carbs anyway).

Wish I had a weber, sigh..


Edit - should I recheck my timing again? Would that improve the idle..?

[A20A1]

can you post pictures of you carb and engine bay... that would help.

[CzEcHy]

can you post pictures of you carb and engine bay... that would help.

Sure let me do it tomorrow, tho you won't see much..

Any specific places to get or just around the carb?

[A20A1]

Pic from top with air cleaner/filter off to see down the carb barrels and all vacuum lines connected to the carb.

Pics of any vacuum hoses connected to the manifold and where they go.

Pics of the throttle linkage side of the carb from the top of the carb to the base of the manifold.

The mechanical secondary.

The back of the carb where the A/F mixture screw is, if the hole is covered don't bother.
*This is to make sure it hasn't fallen out.

Is your choke + choke plate still on and working?


do recheck you timing... disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor.

Check your spark plugs!
make sure they are tight
make sure the wires are on good

[CzEcHy]

Pic from top with air cleaner/filter off to see down the carb barrels and all vacuum lines connected to the carb.

Pics of any vacuum hoses connected to the manifold and where they go.

Pics of the throttle linkage side of the carb from the top of the carb to the base of the manifold.

The mechanical secondary.

The back of the carb where the A/F mixture screw is, if the hole is covered don't bother.
*This is to make sure it hasn't fallen out.

Is your choke + choke plate still on and working?


do recheck you timing... disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor.

Check your spark plugs!
make sure they are tight
make sure the wires are on good

It's just odd because it did it's idling bad before AND after the vacuum removal.

Went from 30 hoses to like 5, and replaced all the hoses with new ones.

Choke opens fully when warm and closes fully when cold (like before I start it)

The A/F mixture screw was adjusted, could that be the problem? Maybe it was adjusted way wrong or something..? I've tried adusting it with the car on but it doesn't really do anything I've noticed.

Had the idle dashpot removed, but put it back on and connected it to number 2 from dist. with a three way and ran the other line to the back of manifold like the stage 1 said.

It's just like, this happened 1 1/2 wks AFTER I had put the carb on, out of the blue one day, 20 miles from my house.

Plugs should be tight, had two of them re-threaded cause one plug wasn't in all the way. Wires should be good, they are Borg Warner wires, and are a couple months old.

Guess I'll recheck timing and see if that does anything, although when we checked it, it was spot on pretty sure.



Other than the idle, the car preforms amazing above like 1500RPM.

[A20A1]

The A/F screw can fall out when driving... or at the very least move around sometimes.

If adjusting it isn't making a difference then the idle is too high or throttle plates are open too much. Idle should be low and plates closed or near closed for the adjustment to be noticed.

[CzEcHy]

The A/F screw can fall out when driving... or at the very least move around sometimes.

If adjusting it isn't making a difference then the idle is too high or throttle plates are open too much. Idle should be low and plates closed or near closed for the adjustment to be noticed.


I can't get the idle low with the screw, throttle screw, loosening throttle cable.

It's stuck on high idle, yet still dies when turning and stopping.

Odd.

[A20A1]

I'll wait on the pics.

Other then that it's possible to have a brake booster vacuum leak, I think one member had the diaphragm leak once.

[CzEcHy]

The vacuum advance on my dist. is really loose, like, really loose..

Come to think of it, the idle thing happened shortly after we checked my timing and had to touch the advance to get that line off..

Any way this could be the problem? Since the actuator is moving and pushing the advance instead of the advance remaining still?

[stephensimmons]

The vacuum advance on my dist. is really loose, like, really loose..

Come to think of it, the idle thing happened shortly after we checked my timing and had to touch the advance to get that line off..

Any way this could be the problem? Since the actuator is moving and pushing the advance instead of the advance remaining still?

Possible. fix it.

[CzEcHy]

Going to tomorrow, it's been raining all day so I didn't have time to do much..

Going to JY Tuesday picking up the plate under the carb (coolant thing), hopefully they have one..


If none of that works, I'll throw on the old carb and see how he does.

Wish I had a garage to work in, I'd do stuff at night instead of outside in the day, in the weather...

[A20A1]

The vacuum advance on my dist. is really loose, like, really loose..

Come to think of it, the idle thing happened shortly after we checked my timing and had to touch the advance to get that line off..

Any way this could be the problem? Since the actuator is moving and pushing the advance instead of the advance remaining still?


Your idle will improve when you fix your advance diaphragm. Tighten the retaining screws or get a new Diaphragm, just remember to get the same brand because the mounting points are different.

Still you don't set your timing with the advance diaphragm connected to vacuum, so it shouldn't really matter. I've idled nicely with the diaphragm disconnected.

[A20A1]

Going to tomorrow, it's been raining all day so I didn't have time to do much..

Going to JY Tuesday picking up the plate under the carb (coolant thing), hopefully they have one..


If none of that works, I'll throw on the old carb and see how he does.

Wish I had a garage to work in, I'd do stuff at night instead of outside in the day, in the weather...

Where did the EFE plate crack, that thing is pretty hefty?

[CzEcHy]

Cracked between the two barrels, big chunk came off. (don't have pictures sorry, getting tired of taking off carb just to have something else break)

Anyway, got sick of the "new" carb, put back in my old one, only to find out the fucking float bowl screw is pouring out gas... I put silicone on it to TRY to get it to work, but I doubt it will...

Other than that the carb idled nicely the 6 seconds I didn't realize gas was pouring out.



I don't know what to do, I liked the mechanical secondary, but I'm scared to get the old carb rebuilt again just to have IT not work..



But I fixed the vaccum advance on the dist, and it helped somewhat, but still didn't fix the problem, so the problem must be in the new carb.

[A20A1]

Those o-rings should be simple to find and should be cheap. Just get something that will resist gas or else it will melt/dissolve/dry out, etc. Probably Napa would have.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3341

[stephensimmons]

Cracked between the two barrels, big chunk came off. (don't have pictures sorry, getting tired of taking off carb just to have something else break)

Anyway, got sick of the "new" carb, put back in my old one, only to find out the fucking float bowl screw is pouring out gas... I put silicone on it to TRY to get it to work, but I doubt it will...

Other than that the carb idled nicely the 6 seconds I didn't realize gas was pouring out.



I don't know what to do, I liked the mechanical secondary, but I'm scared to get the old carb rebuilt again just to have IT not work..



But I fixed the vaccum advance on the dist, and it helped somewhat, but still didn't fix the problem, so the problem must be in the new carb.

Take it back and get another one! I know it wasent cheap!

[CzEcHy]

Take it back and get another one! I know it wasent cheap!

The guy who rebuilt it said he would refund if I wanted (was only 20 bucks)..


But I told him to take a look at it to make sure everything is ok, maybe it's just a spring or something small..

Old carb is on atm tho, runs great, just has a slower throttle response lol..

[CzEcHy]

Any ideas on what would cause the carb itself not to idle properly?

Like I said, the old carb I had on the car before runs smooth as butter, especially with the vac removal.

Guess I'll just get him to convert my old carb to mech. secondary and not worry about rebuilding it, that way it doesn't have to be taken apart I guess.

[stephensimmons]

Any ideas on what would cause the carb itself not to idle properly?

Like I said, the old carb I had on the car before runs smooth as butter, especially with the vac removal.

Guess I'll just get him to convert my old carb to mech. secondary and not worry about rebuilding it, that way it doesn't have to be taken apart I guess.

The low speed adjustment side or passage is stopped up. Normally with the car running you could rev the car to about 2500 rpm and close the choke and open it a couple of times and that would clean it out. But dont stall the car while doing this.

[A20A1]

Sounds like you're plenty able to convert it to mechanical secondary yourself... just a matter of removing some nuts, relocating a small linkage, then attaching a stronger return spring to prevent any danger of throttle bind.

[Accordian88]

:banghead:mine did that too,i'd get off the freeway and it would die at the light.
i adjusted the throttle,for now thats good enough. hoping to get a weber sooner or later.

[CzEcHy]

Sounds like you're plenty able to convert it to mechanical secondary yourself... just a matter of removing some nuts, relocating a small linkage, then attaching a stronger return spring to prevent any danger of throttle bind.

Little do you know, anything on my Accord that "seems easy", really ends up taking about 4 hours instead of 15 minutes, breaks, and then explodes.

[CzEcHy]

Ok quick question, where is all my cruise control bs in the engine bay?

I did the vac removal, so I won't be needing it anymore, isn't it the weird looking thing with the cable coming to it from the firewall, and the vacuum reservoir connected to it? It's also driver side next to the motor mount basically..


OR...

How would I hook it back up (if possible)..

Rather nice having it, but not a big deal if I don't + it's already gone, just not the components for it.

[carotman]

hook up the Cruise vacuum line to the manifold

[CzEcHy]

hook up the Cruise vacuum line to the manifold



Where would that line be connected? Directly to the actuator for the CC?

(Just trying to find the hose)