Sanden AC compressor

[Xaisk]

Hey guys its getting around that time of year..

and its miserable in Biloxi Mississippi right now..

especially without AIR CONDITIONER! :Owned2:

So ive been looking around and ive heard Sanden makes a mean AC compressor. (The Keihin one is flawed.. I wouldnt put one back on there..)
The main piston points on the Keihin one just happen to be where the gaskets and square covers are bolted on.

Ive been searching around for a site that sells Sanden compressors that arent remanufactures of the Keihin one that will fit my 88 Accord, but havent had any luck finding one.

Does anyone of you have a link to a site that sells the Sanden compressors and for how much do they sell?

If they are too much more expensive im probally just going to put a keihin one back on.:sad2:

[Dr_Snooz]

I know the Sanden name has been batted around here lately, but I've never heard of them. The 3gs came with Keihin or NipponDenso compressors. The Densos are the ones you want. You can get them from Napa rebuilt, but they are pricey. The mount bracket and whatnot should come from the junkyard.

[nswst8]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-87-88-89-ACCORD-C-COMPRESSOR-KIT-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a00fe378bQQitemZ18040 5286795QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

I have this kit, haven't installed it yet. You will have to have your existing hoses modified. Any good a/c shop should be able to crimp the new fittings to your existing hoses.

If you order it directly from them, not thru ebay. It will save you $20. I paid $375.00 shipped.

[Xaisk]

Hm the aftermarket kit is really expensive...

I looked into the Denso ones.. 285 beats 400.

I dont have my mounting brackets or bolts anymore so I would have to def have to rip those out of the junkyard.

Would the Keihin brackets even hold the Denso compressor?

Also would the pipes that fat on the Keihin compressor work with the Denso one or would I have to buy completely new pipes? They should connect properly at the end that goes into the firewall.

(edit) Some links to some good remanufactured densos would be nice.

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/details/Honda/Accord/HRM/A-fs-C_Compressor/1988/DX/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/HRMH191121.html

I found that link to a compressor.

Assuming that it doesnt come with a bracket I will need to buy new refridgerant pipes.
I had to saw the Keihin ones off because the bolts absolutely refused to break.

I have the Keihin condenser.. is that one compatable with the Denso compressor?

[Civic Accord Honda]

ewww sanden kill it fire
mine blew up in front of the comersery on base and scared the living crap out everyone :lol: :lol:

[accordion89]

:facepalm: the new facepalm is so great!

[nswst8]

Wow, I thought the sanden was the replacement to use over the denso, now I have pause and another excuse to buy something else.

[Xaisk]

Well.. Im still trying to figure out.. would the Keihin AC pipes fit the Denso or do I need the Denso pipes to connect to the Denso comp.

Also is the condenser for the Keihin compatible with the Denso compressor? After I get the pipes and Denso compressor theoretically I can plug em in.. Go have the system flushed.. and converted into the new refrigerant. right?

[Dr_Snooz]

I think you will need new hoses, but really, a quick trip to the junkyard will tell you for sure and you'll probably find decent hoses there if you end up needing them. Same goes for the bracket. I think you'll need one, but the junkyard will tell you for sure. Everything else is compatible, but you will want to replace the filter/dryer/receiver unit.

The flushing part of the equation occurs when you have everything apart. You pour the flushing solution into every component of the system and then blow it out with compressed air. If you put it all back together to take it somewhere so they can take it apart again, you're doubling your work and expense. The flush solution is a lot cheaper than what a shop is going to charge you and you'll care more that it gets done right.

By that point, the only part of the conversion left is to put on the new fittings.

[nswst8]

Keihin will not fit the Denso, to switch to the denso you will need the bracket and both hoses.

[Xaisk]

alright thanks for the info. Where can I get the flushing solutions? Would autozone, advance, or O reillys carry that kind of solvent?

Also while im down in the junkyward.. How can I tell which bracket and pipes are the right kind?

And one last question... In the junkyard.. some of the A/C systems are still stable and have freon in it. Should I just relieve the pressure on the valve into the air? (I know its bad but...) I dont have anything to capture the vapors.

(Edit) Before I forget..

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/details/Honda/Accord/HRM/A-fs-C_Compressor/1988/DX/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/HRMH191121.html

That is the compressor I am going to order.. that is the correct Denso one right? It says it is compatable, but there is also another Denso compressor on the site too. Its about 50 bucks more expensive than this one.

Im planning on ordering the cheap one. Ill fire away and order it whenever I get a response to whether this is the right one or not. (I dont want to buy the wrong one and waste time/money)

[Dr_Snooz]

alright thanks for the info. Where can I get the flushing solutions? Would autozone, advance, or O reillys carry that kind of solvent?

Should be widely available at any store.


Also while im down in the junkyward.. How can I tell which bracket and pipes are the right kind?

Well, the right kind are going to have a Denso compressor attached to them. The wrong ones will have a Keihin...


And one last question... In the junkyard.. some of the A/C systems are still stable and have freon in it. Should I just relieve the pressure on the valve into the air? (I know its bad but...) I dont have anything to capture the vapors.

I'd be very surprised if they left R12 in a car. The environmental regs require them to drain all the fluids before putting them out. What you are probably finding is a pressure differential as a result of temperature changes.


(Edit) Before I forget..

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/details/Honda/Accord/HRM/A-fs-C_Compressor/1988/DX/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/HRMH191121.html

That is the compressor I am going to order.. that is the correct Denso one right? It says it is compatable, but there is also another Denso compressor on the site too. Its about 50 bucks more expensive than this one.

Im planning on ordering the cheap one. Ill fire away and order it whenever I get a response to whether this is the right one or not. (I dont want to buy the wrong one and waste time/money)

The picture doesn't look right, but it could just be a stock photo of a generic compressor. It says Denso and it's probably better than no compressor at all, but something that cheap would give me the creeps. It's probably a Chinese piece of trash that is going to sound like it's full of ball bearing when it kicks on, last just long enough to get past warranty and end up leaving you right where you are now. I'd go with a Napa unit myself. They have their failings too, but they still get my vote when it's something I don't want to redo for a long time. Yeah, they are a lot more expensive, but you won't have to buy 6 of them before you get one that isn't completely broken.

Just my two cents.

[nswst8]

Whenever I flush a/c, I use denatured alcohol. Pick it up at any hardware store ie; home depot, lowe's, ace hardware. It will be in the paint section with the thinners.

I like it because of it multipurpose uses, clean burning fuel, multipurpose thinner and cleaner and it evaporates quickly. Which is idea for flushing a/c's.

And my honda master mechanic shop instructor uses it.

[Xaisk]

Hmm... Ill post one more before I hit the hay tnight.

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/details/Honda/Accord/HRM/A-fs-C_Compressor/1988/DX/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/HRMH191120.html

That was the other Denso compressor that was about 50 bucks or so more. Does that one look correct?

For the junkyard.. Ill take your word for it, but ill also ask them just to be safe haha.

I am trying to make sure I know what to look for in the junkyard, and order the correct part.

all 3geez will have the same compressor (I.E. one of those 2 Densos or a Keihin and will be exactly the same no matter what year the vehicle is right?)

I dont think ill have much trouble telling the difference. just trying to save time and money haha.

Anyways Thanks for the great answers Dr Snooz and Nswst8

[dlr1989]

Here is a pic of the contents of the Honda Keihin to Denso conversion kit that shows the compressor that Honda uses along with the bracket and hoses. You probably don't want to spend the dollars for the Honda kit, but the image may at least give you a clue to what the parts look like for one of the Denso compresors that Honda used and it's related parts.
http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/9171/imgp0064pc2.jpg

[LX-incredible]

There 2 different denso models used on our cars, the 10P15E and the 10PA15E. The clutch and the manifold that mounts to the top of the compressor are very different and cannot be interchanged. The 10PA15E looks like the one in the picture above and has a 10 mm bolt to attach the inner portion of the clutch. The 10P15E has a nut and is about 1" longer in total length.

[nswst8]

Here is a pic of the contents of the Honda Keihin to Denso conversion kit that shows the compressor that Honda uses along with the bracket and hoses. You probably don't want to spend the dollars for the Honda kit, but the image may at least give you a clue to what the parts look like for one of the Denso compresors that Honda used and it's related parts.
http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/9171/imgp0064pc2.jpg

Are these kits still available? What is the kit number. I have one installed. Just can't find the kit number.

[dlr1989]

The compressor pictured is indeed a 10PA15E. Here is pic of the back end of the compressor.
http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/7072/imgp0070bm8.jpg

The the Honda part number of the kit is 38020-PJ0-R60. I just looked at Majestic Honda's web site and there is a note that states "May have been discontinued" in the parts list.

[DBMaster]

I have one of the Honda kits in my car that was installed in 1999. I recharged with R12 so it still cools about as well as the A/C in this car ever did. The compressor has been noisy for several years now and has oil on the front of it so I know the shaft seal leaks a bit. I have to add about a half-can of R12 at the beginning of every summer season. My mechanic and I think it only has a couple of years left in it. If you plan to keep the car a long time spring for a NEW compressor. I have personally installed remans before and they last about three years, tops. I have seen a few online that are sold outside of a kit, but they cost at least $300. For me, it will always be worth it since I have a deep seated intolerance of Texas summers. :)

My original Keihin was replaced by the dealer when the car was two years old so basically, it lasted for eight years. I think I have seen somewhere that the Keihin was referred to as the "eight year compressor." I will go with propane before I will go with R134a. One of the other members on this board had success with gas grill propane and a little butane (from a refill can for cigarette lighters). This blend requires no change of oil and actually cools as well or better, and at lower pressures, than R12. Before you go talking about turning your car into a rolling bomb remember that R134a is a hydrocarbon based refrigerant and is flammable as well. These cars do not have adequate condenser surface area so if you want to switch to R134a you should replace the condenser with a parallel flow type for good results. A new expansion valve wouldn't hurt, either. Flushing is only really necessary if your compressor failed violently and put metal particles into the system. The mineral based oil that mixed with the R12 will simply settle to the low points in the system and stay there. Thus, the need for PAG (synthetic) oil. Mineral oil is carried by R12 and propane, as well as by other replacement refrigerants, but not by R134a.

I am not an expert, by any means, but I have done a lot of reading about refrigerants. Even with R12 prices as they are I would stick with that if you like cold air. R134a "conversions" do not cut the mustard here in the summer.

[nswst8]

I agree with Mike! In Texas R134a does not cut it. I converted to R134a in 1997 in Florida(97-04) and it was adequate and it was okay in Connecticut (04-07).

I took it back to R-12 in Texas in 08.

[nfs480]

How hard is it to replace the expansion valve on these vehicles? The service manual makes it look like a bitch to get to.

[nswst8]

It's simple,

Remove glove box and cross brace that glove box attaches to.

Remove evap housing (It's like 3 bolts, a screw clamp and electrical connection)

Don't forget to unscrew suction and discharge hoses from evap at the firewall engine compartment.

Disassemble evap housing and remove evap. Remove dum dum tape around expansion valve and disconnect.

Easy day. Takes me about an hour.



Thanks for the kit number.

[nfs480]

What do you use to cap the hoses while they're apart, i'm concerned about dirt and moisture getting into the system while I have the evaporator housing out from under the dash. Also, do you have any tips for how to flush the system? I'm kind of confused on how exactly that's supposed to work.

[nswst8]

Plastic grocery bag and a rubber band or zip tie, tape.

To flush, use denatured alcohol pour into opening and blow out with compressed air if available. If not you'll have to disconnect each piece and got old school shadetree way. let it sit for a few minutes and drain. I also use a camelpak watering cleaning brush to assist. It's a perfect size to go thru most of the lines.

[Xaisk]

Alright I had a really succesful trip to the junkyard.

I pulled the 2 pipes, the bracket, and the compressor.



Pics there.

The long pipe.

I cut the insulation foam stuff off the outside of the pipe to inspect it for leaks or anything. It was good to go. Is that stuff nessasary?

The compressor.

Im debating on buying a new one or rebuilding this one.
How much is a rebuild kit for the Denso compressor and how difficult is it?

I want your recommendations.

Also your opinions on the condition of it based off the pictures I uploaded. Ill post some better ones later.

[Dr_Snooz]

Alright I had a really succesful trip to the junkyard.

I pulled the 2 pipes, the bracket, and the compressor.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.editAlbumPhotos&albumID=2115264

Pics there.

The long pipe.

I cut the insulation foam stuff off the outside of the pipe to inspect it for leaks or anything. It was good to go. Is that stuff nessasary?

The compressor.

Im debating on buying a new one or rebuilding this one.
How much is a rebuild kit for the Denso compressor and how difficult is it?

I want your recommendations.

Also your opinions on the condition of it based off the pictures I uploaded. Ill post some better ones later.

No pics?

I don't think the compressor can be rebuilt. I tried rebuilding a Keihin, but there was no kit and the parts inside were so obscure I couldn't find anything to work. I ended up pitching all the pieces in the trash.

You probably do want insulation on the lines that carry your cold freon.

[Xaisk]

Very wierd. I tested the link earlier and it worked but now it doesnt. Heres a repost.


that SHOULD work. I just tested the link and it worked.

Anyway...

I might just chunk the compressor and buy a new one.. its 180.00$

Ill let you take a look at the pics of it that I posted.

For the A/C lines.. How would I go about getting new insulation on it?

you will see what I mean when you look at the pics..

[nswst8]

Split insulation (Home depot, Lowe's) zip tied. Don't make it complicated. It's real easy to over think these things. Keep it simple.

[LX-incredible]

That's the 10PA15E. Be sure to double check that you dont order the 10P15E, unless it comes with the manifold and clutch.

The insulation not only helps to return cool referigerant to the compressor, it also extends hose life by shielding from exhaust heat. You can buy self-adhering split insulation at the local hardware or plumping supply. Be sure to get the dense foam, as it will hold up better to the heat.

Also, if the hoses are too stiff to flex completely straight, they need to be replaced. An auto AC supply or radiator shop will have the correct equipment to replace the rubber and save you quite a bit over OEM.

[Civic Accord Honda]

I'd be very surprised if they left R12 in a car. The environmental regs require them to drain all the fluids before putting them out. What you are probably finding is a pressure differential as a result of temperature changes.



the ones in Bakersfield drains everything but the ones in ridgecrest leave the cars as is lol
they get it as a impound try and sale it if it doesn't sale they park it on the lot and let people start raiding them for overpriced parts :thumbup:

[nswst8]

[QUOTE=LX-incredible;1016261]That's the 10PA15E. Be sure to double check that you dont order the 10P15E, unless it comes with the manifold and clutch.
QUOTE]

Angus, in your opinion. Which is the better or rather what is the difference between them?

[Xaisk]

Kk. I probably need to become more familiar with the hardware store.

The rubber hoses on the pipes are just fine. They flex perfectly so I dont think they are dry-rotted.

The rubber parts of the hoses never had insulation on them. Would it be a good idea to put some on them as well? I personally think so.. and I would rather spend the extra time/money to do it right and make it last as long as I can.

As far as the compressor goes.. Its put me on pause. Gotta rent a tux for prom haha so I have to wait till next Friday before I can order the new one.

I looked at the different compressors when I was shopping around online and noticed that the 10PA15E has a different clutch than the 10P15E. The 10PA15E has a clutch fit for a skinny belt that looks similar to the PS belt on my car. The 10P15E has a wider more traditional looking belt that looks more like the alternator belt.

I specifically looked at that before I went to the junkyard. My harmonic balancer is set for the 10P15E compressor. Id have to swap to a different harmonic balancer to use the 10PA15E.

MY SOURCE

10PA15E

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/details/Honda/Accord/HRM/A-fs-C_Compressor/1988/DX/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/HRMH191121.html

10P15E

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/details/Honda/Accord/HRM/A-fs-C_Compressor/1988/DX/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/HRMH191120.html

I honestly dont know if there is a difference on the inside of the compressors because ive never opened one.. nor am I too experienced with them. Those are just the external differenced I noticed.

(edit) Im very satisfied. Cleaned the A/C compressor bracket and installed it in like 5 min. Cleaning it took like 45 minutes. Installing it took 5 min flat no longer.

Got the A/C pipes cleaned up too. All I need is to get that new Denso compressor and install it and ill be set!

[LX-incredible]

Angus, in your opinion. Which is the better or rather what is the difference between them?

The 10PA15E. It's a newer design and slightly more compact. The clutch is easily removed for adjusting the gap or replacing the idler bearing. It uses a one piece manifold with a single seal, instead of two piece with the 7 o-rings the 10P15E has (the kit only includes 4; one of which isn't included in the o-ring kits, usually difficult to find, and costs nearly $20). The other 2 that you'll need many times aren't stocked, so you'll need a second $8 o-ring kit.

All 4 bolts that attach the manifold are used on the PA. The 10P15E only uses 3, as the connection for the discharge is pretty much covers where the 4th would be. I've pulled apart two so far where one of the high pressure o-rings had ruptured on this corner.

[LX-incredible]

I looked at the different compressors when I was shopping around online and noticed that the 10PA15E has a different clutch than the 10P15E. The 10PA15E has a clutch fit for a skinny belt that looks similar to the PS belt on my car. The 10P15E has a wider more traditional looking belt that looks more like the alternator belt.

I specifically looked at that before I went to the junkyard. My harmonic balancer is set for the 10P15E compressor. Id have to swap to a different harmonic balancer to use the 10PA15E.

MY SOURCE

10PA15E

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/details/Honda/Accord/HRM/A-fs-C_Compressor/1988/DX/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/HRMH191121.html

10P15E

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/details/Honda/Accord/HRM/A-fs-C_Compressor/1988/DX/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/HRMH191120.html


Then why did you buy the 10PA15E from the junkyard? I think you need to go back and read everything that we posted...

That is not a picture of a 10PA15E in the first link. The mounting is for use with an idler pulley. All 86-89 Accords use the 4 groove AC belt.

[Xaisk]

Then why did you buy the 10PA15E from the junkyard? I think you need to go back and read everything that we posted...

That is not a picture of a 10PA15E in the first link. The mounting is for use with an idler pulley. All 86-89 Accords use the 4 groove AC belt.

I bought the 10P15E from the junkyard according to the img on the link?
Are the links incorrect or what? Im kind of confused.

I pulled it and probally didnt need the compressor but I thought they might have a rebuild kit that would give me the chance to save a good buck.

(Edit)

Im pretty sure im just going to buy a new Denso, but I couldnt help but look around.

I found a gasket/sealer kit for the A/C system in our cars.

http://www.rockauto.com/
You will have to look your car up but you will find it.
Its VERY VAGUE.

It doesnt say which compressor its for I.E. Keihin or Denso.
nor does it say what pieces come in it.

Very very vague but 10 bucks = alot cheaper than 200
I think im going to just buy a new Denso but I thought some of you all might find it interesting so I would share my find.

[LX-incredible]

You're not listening. If you feel like pulling another compressor for parts, go right ahead.

10PA15E on the left, 10P15E on the right:
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/3598/denso1.jpg



10P15E on the left, 10PA15E on the right
http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/1439/denso2z.jpg

The 10P15E has a new 4-seasons clutch, which is an improvement over the rubber ring on the oem, but you get the idea.

[POS carb]

a rebuild nippondenso pa15e is available at local autopart for under $300
Nippondenso and Keihin hoses are not interchangable
Mounting bracket is specific to the compressor as well.
everything else is interchangable
System must be flushed before switching from R12 to R134a
I'm running R134a. I have my fans wired in parallel so that they both come on when the A/C and/or temp switch is triggered.
I tried propane to find all my leaks but I had to overcharge the hell out of the system and stay above 1500 rpm to cool off :/

[Xaisk]

a rebuild nippondenso pa15e is available at local autopart for under $300
Nippondenso and Keihin hoses are not interchangable
Mounting bracket is specific to the compressor as well.
everything else is interchangable
System must be flushed before switching from R12 to R134a
I'm running R134a. I have my fans wired in parallel so that they both come on when the A/C and/or temp switch is triggered.
I tried propane to find all my leaks but I had to overcharge the hell out of the system and stay above 1500 rpm to cool off :/

Are there any other parts other than the compressor that CANT be flushed?

ive heard your not supposed to flush the compressor. Which I wont need to since ill be getting a new one.

[Dr_Snooz]

You should change the filter. Definitely change the filter.

[Xaisk]

A/C filter? where is it located and whats it look like? also about how much do they cost?

[Dr_Snooz]

Just below the windshield washer fluid fill neck. They are about $50.

[Pnem3]

a rebuild nippondenso pa15e is available at local autopart for under $300
Nippondenso and Keihin hoses are not interchangable
Mounting bracket is specific to the compressor as well.
everything else is interchangable
System must be flushed before switching from R12 to R134a
I'm running R134a. I have my fans wired in parallel so that they both come on when the A/C and/or temp switch is triggered.
I tried propane to find all my leaks but I had to overcharge the hell out of the system and stay above 1500 rpm to cool off :/

Propane doesn't work well without isobutane. The head pressures are too high. Isobutane mixed with the propane brings the pressures down and cools everything out.

[Xaisk]

Well Fridays almost here. Im going to either get the compressor, or new speakers this check. I really want to get the compressor but I have to see if ill have enough left over after other expenses.

Getting very excited though.

[Xaisk]

Well Fridays almost here. Im going to either get the compressor, or new speakers this check. I really want to get the compressor but I have to see if ill have enough left over after other expenses.

Getting very excited though.

Well its been a hell of a week and I want to just shoot myself.

I couldnt buy the new compressor or speakers because I had to loan my gf 75 bucks. Then my bank bounced because some credit charges came out a day early. I personally am not to bothered by the money issue but I couldnt afford the new compressor.

So I decided to install the Denso I pulled outta the junkyard.
When I fired it up it was amazing to see the green A/C light flicker on..
However I looked at the compressor as it was turning and the clutch wasnt engaged. The pulley was spinning but no clutch.

So that compressor is useless.

Unless the clutch doesnt engage unless refridgerant is in it, then its seized.

Boo. Fuck my life right now.

Gonna just buy a new compressor eventually. Ive given up on a deadline.

But thanks for you guys help and advice. It was very useful. I appreciate it.

(edit)

Ok so that was the reason the clutch wasnt activating. I put some in and it activated resulting in a squealing sound like a banshee.

I tighted the belt some more and the squealing went away, and I started to hear a bubbling sound. I gave it gas a little bit because the engine wouldnt support the A/C at the level it was set.

Then I turned it off and went around to look. I seen smoke. I think the A/C compressor either,

Doesnt work,
or
Has gunk inside the clutch and pulley area that is burning away ( I.E. Power steering gunk Idk)

Im kind of scared to run it again to be honest haha.

What would you guys say?

(2nd edit)

Smells very strongly of burnt rubber.

[LX-incredible]

System needs to have over 10 psi on the low side for clutch to engage.

What exactly did you do? Install compressor without flushing system and add oil and 134a? Why ask for advice when you're going to do shit the wrong way anyway.

Go back to walmart, return whatever R134a "retrofit" bullshit you have left, buy some jensen speakers, and sweat your nuts off for the next 4 months.

[Xaisk]

System needs to have over 10 psi on the low side for clutch to engage.

What exactly did you do? Install compressor without flushing system and add oil and 134a? Why ask for advice when you're going to do shit the wrong way anyway.

Go back to walmart, return whatever R134a "retrofit" bullshit you have left, buy some jensen speakers, and sweat your nuts off for the next 4 months.

... that was uncalled for.

I indeed DID flush the system and follow the proper directions.

I spent a REALLY long time thoroughly flushing it and making sure I did it correctly. I am sunburnt to holy hell from spending all the time I did working on the damned thing.

I got the oil and R134a and charged the system after flushing it.

So unless there is something else I was supposed to do then I did it right.
Im not a moron.

I asked for advice and followed each step from the information given on the forum and other websites, so I think it a dick move of you to assume I didnt follow the directions.


The compressor I pulled from the junkyard must have been in there for a reason.
Reason being it was JUNK.

Though sometimes you can get a decent part.

Im just going to have to wait for awhile till I can buy a reman and put that one in.

On top of that, I didnt plan on buying cheap little wal-mart speakers for the thing. They would be no better than the 21 year old speakers that are installed in it now.

I find it ridiculous to get your head chewed off by other "enthusiasts" when asking for help with something.

[Civic Accord Honda]

1 when the compressor doesn't turn on it means it dosent have enough pressure to turn on thought i said that somewhere you just jump the compressor to turn on start adding freon connect it back up then finish adding freon,
once it has the proper amount of freon all should be well, if not then replace the compressor
i would turn it back on and see where smoke is coming from lol

[nfs480]

If it was squealing than the compressor was most likely seized.

[Dr_Snooz]

I wouldn't call it a bad compressor if the clutch isn't engaging. I'd call it a bad clutch.