Received new Keihin today

[nfs480]

I bought a reman keihin off Ebay that is supposedly been remanufactured to be compatible with R134a (Viton seals replaced with a different material). The pictures of the compressor are below:
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/nfs480/1989%20Honda%20Accord%20SE-I%20sedan/100_0901.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/nfs480/1989%20Honda%20Accord%20SE-I%20sedan/100_0904.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/nfs480/1989%20Honda%20Accord%20SE-I%20sedan/100_0903.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b341/nfs480/1989%20Honda%20Accord%20SE-I%20sedan/100_0902.jpg

I'm a little concerned about the clutch wire though, it almost looks like it's exposed right before it connects to the clutch, although I don't know what it's supposed to look like. Also, the instructions posted say the compressor is "Dry". How much oil do I need to add to the compressor and how much to which other components?

[nswst8]

Put 2 ounces in the compressor, divide the rest up where you can. If you flushed the entire system. IF you haven't then add only 2 to the compressor

[nfs480]

Really? Only 2 ounces from empty? I thought the compressor held like 6?

[ecogabriel]

Depending on year/model the whole system may hold up to 8 ounces; 6 ounces for the WHOLE system seems a reasonable compromise. I posted a link a little while ago to a A/C capacity guide published by NAPA; it gives both refrigerant and oil capacities. Or you may try the service manual; A/C oil capacities should be there

what are you planning to do? flush the whole system and then install?

[nswst8]

Really? Only 2 ounces from empty? I thought the compressor held like 6?

The entire system only has the capacity to hold 5.75oz but that is distributed throughout the entire system. You only put 2-3oz (MAX)in the compressor.

[nfs480]

Depending on year/model the whole system may hold up to 8 ounces; 6 ounces for the WHOLE system seems a reasonable compromise. I posted a link a little while ago to a A/C capacity guide published by NAPA; it gives both refrigerant and oil capacities. Or you may try the service manual; A/C oil capacities should be there

what are you planning to do? flush the whole system and then install?

I'm still in the planning stage, i'm considering flushing the system but I haven't decided for sure yet. The old compressor didn't seize so I doubt there's any "black death" in the system, but I feel like it might be a good idea anyway. I'm just still confused on how exactly to flush the system and how long it will take.

[LX-incredible]

Really? Only 2 ounces from empty? I thought the compressor held like 6?

What refrigerant were you using? Mineral oil is not compatible with R134a...

[nfs480]

I haven't added anything to the system yet, I just thought it held 6 for some reason. I have Ester oil that I will be using when I install the new compressor. The current oil in the system is whatever the Honda dealership used when they did the conversion to R134a.

[nswst8]

I'm still in the planning stage, i'm considering flushing the system but I haven't decided for sure yet. The old compressor didn't seize so I doubt there's any "black death" in the system, but I feel like it might be a good idea anyway. I'm just still confused on how exactly to flush the system and how long it will take.

Flushing will take some time depending on how you are able to do it. Do you have access to compressed air?

Detach the lines at the evaporator
Detach the lines at the compressor
Detach the lines to the reciever/drier

With a bulb syringe(Turkey baster, baby nasal syringe, battery acid syringe) inject denatured alcohol into the evaporator and follow with compressed air. Place a rag at the exit point so that you don't blow oil all over your engine bay.

Do the same to the condenser through the flex lin from the compressor to the condenser, this will exit at the reciever/drier.

If you do not have access to compressed air then you will have to physically remove each peice and run denatured alcohol through each by gravity.

[nswst8]

I haven't added anything to the system yet, I just thought it held 6 for some reason. I have Ester oil that I will be using when I install the new compressor. The current oil in the system is whatever the Honda dealership used when they did the conversion to R134a.

Honder dealership used a pag oil conversion kit listed for the conversion, they charge like $75 dollars for the kit alone and it is only the oil and fittings.

And if honda did the conversion then they already have flushed the system so "NO NEED TO FLUSH AGAIN"

Ester oil will be fine.

[nfs480]

I do have an air compressor so that won't be a problem. The Honda dealer only charged me two hours of labor for the conversion, could they have flushed the system in this short of an amount of time?

[nswst8]

I do have an air compressor so that won't be a problem. The Honda dealer only charged me two hours of labor for the conversion, could they have flushed the system in this short of an amount of time?

Yes, their machines can flush a system in about 5 minutes.

[nfs480]

Today i'm trying to test the clutch before the compressor gets installed in a couple of weeks. I checked the resistance of the clutch and it checked out at 3.1-3.2 Ohms but the seller said I should be able to jump the clutch to see if it clicks before I install it, how exactly do I do this?

[Oldblueaccord]

Put 12V to it see if it locks up good.


wp

[nfs480]

How do I direct the 12V to it though, I put a piece of copper wire between the positive terminal on the battery and the compressor connector but it didn't do anything.

[nfs480]

The seller who sold me the compressor says that the expansion valve should be replaced at the same time, do you guys think this is necessary? I'm willing to do it but I would like some advice on whether it's necessary and if it is how I should go about doing it. I'm also still considering flushing the system for good measure.

[Oldblueaccord]

Didi the clutch lock up? maybe the unit needed a better ground. Ill look at the print but Im pretty sure thats how it works. The gap may not be set correctly.


wp

[nfs480]

I'm at school for the week so I won't get a chance to check if the clutch locks up until friday afternoon/evening. At first I was just connecting a copper wire from the positive battery terminal to the compressor clutch wire, from the reading i've been doing today I also need to connect a copper wire from the compressor casing to the negative battery terminal to ground it, so I'm gonna give that a try on friday.

I don't have the proper tools to check the gap, the best I did was sticking a piece of 0.7 mm pencil lead in between the clutch plate and the pulley and it fit perfectly which I think says the gap is too large (range is 0.3 to 0.6 mm according to the factory service manual).

[LX-incredible]

The compressor needs to be properly grounded for the clutch to work. Where were you measuring resistance? Between the clutch wire and compressor housing? That unit looks to be painted to me... Make sure that the clutch negative and ground you use are making contact with the aluminum.

[nfs480]

I did measure resistance between clutch wire and compressor housing (used illustration in service manual).

[nfs480]

I jumped the compressor clutch and it clicked and pulled the clutch plate in towards the pulley so that's working. Just wondering which O-Rings I should buy off of Majestic for this job, looks like they have an "O-Ring set", do you guys think this would have all the O-Rings I need? Also, i'm planning on replacing the expansion valve and flushing the system at the same time.

Basically it sounds like I should flush the evaporator separately with the expansion valve removed, correct? Also, I can flush through one of the lines from the compressor through the condensor and it will come out at the receiver drier and after I run the flush chemical through I just run compressed air from my air compressor through to clear it out. Anything i'm missing?

Also, when I add the oil, I just pour it into the lines at the condensor and evaporator and into the receiver/drier, correct? (the amounts listed in the manual obviously) Also, what did you guys use to measure out the proper amount of oil? When adding the oil to the compressor, do you guys just add it through where the lines connect? or through one of the little caps on the side of the compressor body?

Sorry about all of the questions, I just want to make sure I do everything correctly the first time and have never done any of this stuff before.

[LX-incredible]

Santech MT2561 Rapid Seal kit will have all the o-rings you need with some extras. About $8-$10 at your local AC supply.

If you replace the expansion valve, buy the denso unit from honda. It's way better than the parker or whatever universal bullshit anywhere else will try to sell you, a bit cheaper too.

[Oldblueaccord]

I only remember adding oil to the compressor it self but I cant remember where. I converted it in like 95. I dont think I added any more the 2 3/4 oz of oil. The freon cans have oil in them as well.


wp

[nfs480]

I'm planning on charging the system at work with pure Dupont R134a (no oil) so i'm planning on getting the oil added exactly right beforehand.

[ecogabriel]

don't forget to replace the low and high pressure port valves. They tend to leak and are probably leaking already. I always have some pressure when I remove the caps covering those ports.

I have a conversion to make in my civic and I will buy a syringe for the oil measurement. If I can find a 30cc (cubic centimeters/mililiters) one I'll be set; 1oz. is almost 30ml (29.57xxx)