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canadian357
05-15-2010, 11:52 PM
I have no reverse or D4. No grinding or anything, just no response. My tranny fluid is, as far as I can tell, clean and good. Is there any chance it could just be a simple fix? The guy I bought it off said he lost D4 driving 90-ish km/h (it kinda just jumped to neutral) and then he lost reverse later that day. They do come back once in a blue moon but only for a few minutes...

Any ideas on what this could be? Please please please tell me its an easy fix, I've invested too much of my soul into this car as its my first real project.

ecogabriel
05-16-2010, 07:03 AM
I do have a spare transmission in my basement.
I swapped it because of the torque converter vibration; it cost me the same to get a used transmission (from a 3geez member) that the converter only so I swapped the whole thing
The trans worked fine overall and has about 130K; no slips and it shifted smoothly.
I would like to get rid of it -I would give it away- but shipping would be a deal killer I think

Dr_Snooz
05-16-2010, 08:25 AM
Well, you could try a flush to the tune of about $100 and that might do something, but it might not. I'd put that $100 toward another transmission. Swapping an auto is fairly easy to do.

canadian357
05-16-2010, 10:33 AM
I do have a parts car with an OK tranny... i just dont think I have the tools. All i've really got is a set of generic jackstands, a regular bottle jack and a regular floor jack, and then ratchets/sockets

ecogabriel
05-16-2010, 11:38 AM
I do have a parts car with an OK tranny... i just dont think I have the tools. All i've really got is a set of generic jackstands, a regular bottle jack and a regular floor jack, and then ratchets/sockets

I don't think you need that much else; a tranny jack would help. But if you can attach a pulley somewhere and then hang the transmission from there you should be OK.... I was able to do it without either of those but you'll need a helping hand.

It is work-intensive -I did it over a weekend- but it is not an extremely complex job. Use the parts car as practice; "installation is the reverse of removal" as Haynes manual says

labeledsk8r
05-16-2010, 02:24 PM
Well, you could try a flush to the tune of about $100 and that might do something, but it might not. I'd put that $100 toward another transmission. Swapping an auto is fairly easy to do.

were in the HELL did you go tht you payed that much for a trans flush lol


the flush might work but its a VERY slim chance, at most it might help prolong the entire trans from locking up if its an actual trans problem.

when you say the reverse sometimes comes back? when it does, does it run fine and drive with no grinds or thuds or strange noises? if not it could be a cable problem or a shifter/trans shifter linkage problem.

does it drive in d3 just fine? and just not shift into d4?

**edit** if you do go the trans flush route use honda fluid its worth the extra money

canadian357
05-17-2010, 01:34 PM
Yeah D3 is completely fine. And when reverse comes back it's normal too.

canadian357
05-22-2010, 11:59 PM
So just to clarify here.... D3 is ok and D4 and reverse come back and act normal once in a blue moon.... I need new transmission though, right?

labeledsk8r
05-23-2010, 01:09 AM
sorry i was hopeing someone else would chime in on this after me since i havent touched an a20 auto trans in almost 5 years, to me it still sounds like a shift linkage problem but need someone else to veryify that

rc00netzero
05-23-2010, 10:35 PM
If it were mine, I would definitely check the condition of the shift cable(s) and go thru the shifter adjustment procedure in the service manual. It might solve it and its cheap to do. As for the tranny swap - I replaced the converter (which requires trans R&R) on my 85 with little problems - no need for a tranny jack it's not that heavy ( I lowered mine onto my chest before pushing out from under the car). You will need a good stable jack to support the engine and a good pair of jack-stands to hold up the car (a creeper and a concrete floor will make it easier). One tool you may have to get is a socket to fit the axle nut. Be ready to replace CV axles if needed - they have to come out too ( well the right-hand one does - the left has to come at least halfway out - prolly easier to pull it complete out of the way). Just be sure converter is fully in on replacement tranny b4 fitting it to engine (or it won't go together:banghead:).
Some folks like to pull hood and remove engine and tranny together - but you'll need an engine crane/hoist for that and there is more to disconnect/reconnect.

canadian357
05-23-2010, 11:25 PM
Awesome. I have the chilton and factory service manuals so I'll run through the cheapest possible fixes until I'm certain its the tranny. Thanks a ton guys, this is why I love 3geez :D