why is the Weber 32/36 so expensive?

[ADRIANFARINA]

this is a kit for our cars (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=accord+89+weber&_rdc=1) very expensive..

but then we have these (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=32/36+weber&_rdc=1)

can I just get one of those 50$ ones?

thanks.

[Edison Carasio]

Remember, you get what you pay for.

[ADRIANFARINA]

look at this (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Weber-32-36-DFAV-Escort-RS-NOS-Capri-Brisca-Rally-AVO-/320531404632?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4aa1291758):omg:

[greentee76]

Those will require rejetting for our application and you will still need to find someway to adapt it to our manifold. 315 is a pretty good deal on the kit.
I gues the difference is whether you want to do the conversion in a few hours or if you want to tinker with it for a long time making something work.

[ADRIANFARINA]

I'm not a lazy boy , and the car is just for fun..
I'll think about it, but I have to do aomething with the carb,
mine is in a bad situation and after getting the rebuild kit I got the carb out and it looks so complicated
and useless with all of those vacoom lines comming out of it
so I thought of getting this Webber and also getting rid of all the unnecessary vacoom lines..

[2ndGenGuy]

$314 is not that bad man. You ever see what people pay for ITBs and other performance carbs? A rebuilt stock carb is somewhere over $200.

The DFAV will drop onto the standard 32/36 adapter plate, but the carb is essentially a mirror version of the DGAV, so it's like flipped backwards. There may be issues making the throttle cable reach properly or something. The kit is good assurance that the carb will drop right on. You'll either pay with your time or with your money, as greentee said.

[2oodoor]

DFAV works fine you just have to make sure you put the primary barrel over the primary port. Your throttle will be on the opposite side and you just have to make some bracketry to make it work. YOu would have to do it anyway even with the DGV. There are PLENTY of bolt holes on the intake you wont be needing for the OEM garbage. I even used one of the egr studs to bolt the scab bracket. That is a generic exhaust hangar which worked ok. Be sure to use the OEM cable cam piece that crecent shaped thing. Ignore the rigging I used to retain the cable .. that was temporary lol
I think I may have some pics of my DFEV set up somewhere. I think I used the same bracket on the DGV at one point.
Ive bought webers at the JY but you have to clean the crap out of them, some are not worth messing with. Use good judgement, take the tophat off before you buy one in the JY>I
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/Picture016.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/1211403531.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/1211403548.jpg

[2oodoor]

One more with it on the B20 and my custom manifold with egr completley removed. I never attached the cable but you can see the hardware on the throttle, all is needed is an anchor for the cable and to make it adjustable using the OEM jam nut set up. Easy to do really.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/PA050267.jpg

[ADRIANFARINA]

sorry , but what DFAV and DGV stand for?

thanks.

[jlebr549]

Don't get rid of your oem carburetor its fine.
Take it apart.. all of it.. then inspect/clean everything, and replace what you know looks
bad.
TAKE YOUR TIME...don't try and do it all in one day.
If you think this carburetor is to complicated, then don't do a weber conversion.

[2oodoor]

Don't get rid of your oem carburetor its fine.
Take it apart.. all of it.. then inspect/clean everything, and replace what you know looks
bad.
TAKE YOUR TIME...don't try and do it all in one day.
If you think this carburetor is to complicated, then don't do a weber conversion.

it is painfully obvious you have no idea, no friggen idea, absolutely not a dam clue, beyond any reasonable doubt uncharted territory in your journal of travels

It is not so much the carb itself, I will give you that but the controls and devices all under the hood all related to these oem carbs.

bye, sianara im out

[jlebr549]

it is painfully obvious you have no idea, no friggen idea, absolutely not a dam clue, beyond any reasonable doubt uncharted territory in your journal of travels

It is not so much the carb itself, I will give you that but the controls and devices all under the hood all related to these oem carbs.

bye, sianara im out



It’s complicated I know, but by saying it’s not worth trying to figure out, for me is not an option.
I want to be able to tune my own car right, not only because I want to be able to pass an emissions test, but because I know I can do anything I set my mind too.

[ADRIANFARINA]

if I take the oem one out and put a Webber in , then I can get rid of a lot of vacuum accesories , right?

[2oodoor]

if I take the oem one out and put a Webber in , then I can get rid of a lot of vacuum accesories , right?
>>>> I mean now did you see any in any of the pictures I provided.. need you ask?:) PVC< brake booster and vaccuum advance is all you will need for vacuum items.. also cruise control if you use that.

Ok I filled this chair up again with as much and still another bit of junk was no longer needed. It was about a 30 gallon trash can compacted, full of stuff the car did not need any longer.
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t280/roodoo2/1212264091.jpg

[2oodoor]

It’s complicated I know, but by saying it’s not worth trying to figure out, for me is not an option.
I want to be able to tune my own car right, not only because I want to be able to pass an emissions test, but because I know I can do anything I set my mind too.

You can pass emissions with a weber 32/36 depending on where you are, it will pass the sniffer if you detune it slightly which takes every bit of 20 minutes to change jets ....

but will not pass a visual esp if you use an aftermarket looking air cleaner and have vac plugs all over it showing.

[ADRIANFARINA]

Roodoo , where are those pictures you provided?
is ther a "how to to" with this carb exchanging?
thanks..

[2oodoor]

Roodoo , where are those pictures you provided?
is ther a "how to to" with this carb exchanging?
thanks..

post #7 and #8 in your thread here, go back

[ADRIANFARINA]

ohh.. I thought you have a thread somewhere , thanks :cheers:

[jlebr549]

it is painfully obvious you have no idea, no friggen idea, absolutely not a dam clue, beyond any reasonable doubt uncharted territory in your journal of travels

It is not so much the carb itself, I will give you that but the controls and devices all under the hood all related to these oem carbs.

bye, sianara im out

All I really was trying to say was don,t switch to a weber just because it suddenly started running rough, try and fix it if you can.
If you are wanting to do it just because you want to, then thats cool too.
Thats my opinion and I think you should have yours, and the next guy etc.
without being jumped. It's not your job big guy to jump anyone here with their own opinion, especially if you don't know them.
If you know me and don't like me fair enough, but if you don't know me and don't like me thats just damn foolishness.

[ADRIANFARINA]

no need to fight.. :cheers:
I want to replace the carb because
mine is in a bad situation
the weber should be more reliable
the weber will help cleaning the engine compartment
the weber should add some power over the standard one
the weber... is $$$ :violin:

[jlebr549]

To be honest about it I worked on my car for a month before finding the problem, during that time Weber was in the back of my mind.

[2oodoor]

All I really was trying to say was don,t switch to a weber just because it suddenly started running rough, try and fix it if you can.
If you are wanting to do it just because you want to, then thats cool too.
Thats my opinion and I think you should have yours, and the next guy etc.
without being jumped. It's not your job big guy to jump anyone here with their own opinion, especially if you don't know them.
If you know me and don't like me fair enough, but if you don't know me and don't like me thats just damn foolishness.

My comment wasn't any more or less assertive than yours so forget it. I am only trying to help. If you are an expert or have gained any knowledge others can use specifically related to the oem carb system..well then we certainly could use more resident members to help with those and I will leave it at that.

Ive never paid much for any of the Weber carbs I have. There are plenty around and you only have to look for them. The best 32/36 DGV5A I had was purchased at the junkyard. I was 25 bucks and only because I didn't have a core, it would have been less. It was under the hood of a mazda pickup, someone had converted it. Ive seen several even as recent as this month, all in salvage yards.

It was a universal replacement carb for years and also the Holley version of it can be found on a bunch of American 4 cyl and some 6 cyl.. also look under the hood of jeeps. It is probably the easiest carb ever to service.

[2ndGenGuy]

^^ This guy knows his shit. I've got like 4 or 5 webers and holleys sitting around my house. Tons of parts for em. When you start looking you find them everywhere. Brand new ones are nice, but if you know how to make an old one work, you're golden.

[ADRIANFARINA]

is one of them for sale?:o

[greentee76]

To be honest about it I worked on my car for a month before finding the problem, during that time Weber was in the back of my mind.

The problem is that there are few resources for info on the OEM feedback system. Also when pieces of the feedback system go bad they cost alot of money, if they can be found at all. Replacing just a couple of those pieces could easily cost as much or more than the Weber conversion.
My 2 cents....

[88Accord-DX]

I couldn't see myself paying that kind of money & rebuilt one off ebay for little around a bill. It takes a little time & tweeking... Here is some pics of my process.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/weberrebuilding.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/weberrebuild1.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/weberrebuildkit.jpg

installed with no return spring

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/weberbreather.jpg

[ADRIANFARINA]

I think I'll order this one (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270568825072&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT).
I've looked arround but couldn't find a "how to do" that shows wich vacoom lines can be removed.
Will this really make my fuel aconomy better?
Is this a really "bolt on" item , or should I preper some other stuff?
I took my old carb out (what a monster :deadhorse:) but could't take out the gasket that remained stuck to the inlet manifold .. is there a way of doing it without taking the manifold out?
Did someone took some pics of this swap?


thanks,
Adrian. http://www.3geez.com/forum/images/icons/icon14.gif

[88Accord-DX]

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38161

That thread has pretty much all you need to know on how to swap the carb & links to where you need to buy adapter plates. I got all my stuff - adapter plate, rebuild kit & gaskets from JAM engineering for a little over $100 after shipping. IF you get the one off ebay, it willl have the intake from the looks of it...I think that is a generic pic & doesn't come with an intake.

[ADRIANFARINA]

you are talking about the intake manifold? yes I suppose it won't be included.

thanks

[ADRIANFARINA]

do I need a fuel pressure regulator after installing the Webber carb?

thanks

[MessyHonda]

do I need a fuel pressure regulator after installing the Webber carb?

thanks

i think webs are happy at 3-4 psi

[ADRIANFARINA]

and how much does the 3gee puts out? 3?

[MessyHonda]

yeah i think 2-3 if its a new fuel pump

[ADRIANFARINA]

Got my new Weber carb+convertion kit today .
Here is something they list in the papers I got :

Vehicles with AC and or Cruise may required additional modifications or parts that are not available in this kit.
Fabrication or reuse of original parts may be required.

Automatic transmission vehicles may require modifications to allow the use of the kick down cable.

What do I do with this information?
Mine is automatic with AC.

thanks.

[2oodoor]

You will need to readjust the transmission TV cable once you have the carb like you like it. There will be lots of small tweeking and fine tuning with the cable once you start driving it so you get the shift points to suit how you drive.

AC, well when it kicks on it will drag the motor down some at idle. Again you will need to have a slightly higher idle speed for times when you use the AC... maybe. It differs from car to car. These compressors do not drag idle power down as much as other makes and vehicles though so you may not even have an issue.

[ADRIANFARINA]

how do I take the gasket between the manifold an carb off?
it's real stuck.
is their a solvant I can pour on it to loosen it?

[A20A1]

it is painfully obvious you have no idea, no friggen idea, absolutely not a dam clue, beyond any reasonable doubt uncharted territory in your journal of travels

It is not so much the carb itself, I will give you that but the controls and devices all under the hood all related to these oem carbs.

bye, sianara im out


lol

Scrape the manifold clean with a wide chisel, just be careful so you don't dig into the soft metal.

As for the transmission TV cable, I was adjusting mine by hand (used the trunk release cable) after a number of linkages for the thing broke, but I also hooked it directly to the accelerator pedal for a time since manually controlling the linkage can get in the way.

Best bet is to hook it to the accelerator pedal to have even motion between the TV and Accelerator cable. Some of our cars already came with this style of cable, so you might want to look for one.
or
If your auto but have a spare manual pedal assembly, hook it to the clutch pedal and use your other foot to manually adjust the TV to set the shift points where you want no matter what your accelerator pedal is doing.

[2oodoor]

Get all fancy now ^^^^you are so innovative A20A1 !
next thing I guess you will suggest using a lawnmower brake to make a paddle shifter up by the steering wheel :flash:

[A20A1]

Get all fancy now ^^^^you are so innovative A20A1 !
next thing I guess you will suggest using a lawnmower brake to make a paddle shifter up by the steering wheel :flash:

I'll let lostforawhile do that one. :rolleyes:

[DocHaley]

this is a kit for our cars (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=accord+89+weber&_rdc=1) very expensive..

but then we have these (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=32/36+weber&_rdc=1)

can I just get one of those 50$ ones?

thanks.

It's America. I'm a native American, an old guy, owned my own company for nearly 35 years and retired @52. Things were not like this in the 50's and 60's and even the 70's. But it slowly creeped into our lives as American Corporations got greedier and greedier. Used to be able to raise a family of 4 to 6 on one income and send all the kids to college. Try that today. There is no reason why the Weber 3235 with the adapter and electric choke should cost the consumer any more than $150 plus shipping and tax.
Weber pops out a lot under a license in Italy and other countries. Total cost $22 material $38 in labor. I got contacts but they can't get me one!
Go figure why it costs so much?!
Really sad.
I'm looking for a carb right now for my rock crawler, an old 1987 Dodge Raider, 2.6L mitsubishi 4 cylinder, 159 cuin. A simple 1 barrel would run my 4 cylinder, a simple one barrel! can't even find this here in America for much under $200.
What a sht hole Corporate America has put us in.
Doc

[lostforawhile]

Don't get rid of your oem carburetor its fine.
Take it apart.. all of it.. then inspect/clean everything, and replace what you know looks
bad.
TAKE YOUR TIME...don't try and do it all in one day.
If you think this carburetor is to complicated, then don't do a weber conversion.you must not know much about these carbs, the electronic Keihin is one of the worst carbs Honda ever put on a car, parts to repair it aren't available, you need a lot more then the little cheap "rebuild" kit, there are a lot of diaphragms etc that don't come in that kit, plus everything else around the carb that runs it, and is failing after more then a quarter century, and none of those parts are still made, you can't even buy a throttle cable, not even aftermarket, let alone something like the special diaphragm in the box that controls, say the EGR, The only way to keep these cars on the road other then going FI, is a different carb,where you can get parts to repair it

[lostforawhile]

this is a kit for our cars (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=accord+89+weber&_rdc=1) very expensive..

but then we have these (http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=32/36+weber&_rdc=1)

can I just get one of those 50$ ones?

thanks.
thats a good price, have you checked with Pierce manifolds? you can get the same kit, but you also get free technical support, and I think the price is about the same