Differential Gears Problem

[Jajle]

Hey guys, I have pulled apart my whole transmission to see what's clogging my transmission filter and I found that the differential gears have been ground smooth. I've been calling around and my dad has been looking on the internet for just the gears and all we've been able to find is the whole differential. I'm wanting to buy pinion gears, pinion shaft, and side/axle gears. If anyone could help me out on where and how I might be able to get my hands on just that(new or used), for a good price, it would be helpful. I did call a Honda Autosales store and they said they could order them, but it would cost four hundred dollars, which I really don't want to do seeing as how I could get a differential for that, and I plan on converting my car to a standard transmission within the next year or so.

I have a 1989 Honda Accord SE-i, A20a3 with an automatic F4 model transmission.

P.S. I didn't really know where to throw this thread. Sorry if I put it in the wrong place.

[AccordEpicenter]

Umm me personally, Id just find a good used trans and install it. Nobody sells the gears separately I dont think, and with that much metal floating around in the trans anyway, you probably should rebuild it or get another trans entirely.

[AccordB20A]

not worth fixing a failbox, pics of said diff gears please

[Dr_Snooz]

I'd be interested in pics also. Those diff gears are extraordinarily tough. I can't think of many situations where you'd break those gears without breaking a lot of other things first. It's possible you're seeing something that isn't a problem.

[Jajle]

I don't own a camera. And they do sell gears individually, just for a crap load. My transmission isn't a failbox, all the gears, balls, springs, etc. are in good condition(other than differential). I am rebuilding my transmission. And I assure there is a problem, the gears may be tough but it looks like someone took a grinder to them. The pinion shaft is also cut halfway through. It sounds like something never heard of before I know. But my differential gears are truly messed up.

[AccordB20A]

My transmission isn't a failbox

All i meant was automatic = fail cause i dont like autos haha.

hey good luck rebuilding the box man

[LX-incredible]

Buy another transmission. They usually can be had at a u-pull-it for $75-$200. I guarantee there will be other issues if you managed to blow the diff. It will be less costly than buying parts separately and/or having someone remove them for you. If you're rebuilding, it's nice to have 2 transmissions to pull and compare parts from. Wear will sometimes be so uniform on certain parts that it will be unnoticeable without something to compare to.

If you are planning a manual swap anyway, it will be easier, cheaper, and less time consuming than rebuilding the auto. There's also going to be a better chance of it working when you put it back together... If you're intent on rebuilding and have no experience with these things, start with a 5-speed. I've got over 30k on the first one I built. Very simple if you have some mechanical aptitude.

[itzdave]

yea man, there is a place in OKC called LA Auto Import, just off I-40, if its still there... they have quite a few 3geez...

[Jajle]

Thanks guys, I have to leave town for business. The 3Gee will stay in the garage for now. I'll probably end up coming back with a five speed.

I'm so glad I actually get some form of help on 3Geez, unlike the other Honda Accord Forums I'm registered to.

[Dr_Snooz]

How do your shafts look? Is there scoring or bluing? Are they within tolerance?

[Jajle]

I finally just bought a used diff and continued with the rebuild. It's in now and works excellent. Got to drive it for about five miles, park it, and now my fuel pump seems to not be getting power. I took out the pump and tested it on the battery to find out that it works. I took a test light to the wires leading to the fuel pump and it didn't light up. Fuses have been checked and are all good. :(

[carotman]

Check the main relay. They're a comon failure on these cars and other Honda cars of the same era.

[Jajle]

I replaced the main relay and she fired right up, although now I have another problem. It would start solidly for a couple of days, now it barely starts, I have to devote about ten minutes to starting my car each day. When I turn the car off I also have to wait longer before it will start again. It's not making for a very great daily driver. =\

[LX-incredible]

Sounds like a bad TW sensor.

[Bluntman]

I replaced the main relay and she fired right up, although now I have another problem. It would start solidly for a couple of days, now it barely starts, I have to devote about ten minutes to starting my car each day. When I turn the car off I also have to wait longer before it will start again. It's not making for a very great daily driver. =\

That sounds like another common problem. That is symptoms of a bad ECT ( Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor. They will not always throw a code and is an easy fix. You can also try bleeding the cooling system at the bleeder on the thermostat housing, if the coolant level is low then the coolant tends not to come in contact well enough to the sensor to let the sensor give an accurate reading to the ECU, thus not telling the correct fuel and air mixture for the engine coolant temperature at certain times. Generally it starts whenever do to the wrong mixture flooding it. Here is the NAPA part#,But you can get these at Pep Boys and you will be fine. I only use NAPA on parts, but on this it is OK to do even Autozone(and I hate to say it).
Any way here is NAPA#, and what it looks like.http://www.dmauto.com/web/dmauto/Catalog/NAPA_ECAT/mfg/DEM/TS10180/

[Jajle]

Thanks for your help guys, I gotta change my oil tomorrow so I'll see if I can't grab a TW Sensor and hopefully my problem will be gone.

[Bluntman]

I also cross referenced the factory part# with Pep Boys. So the Pep Boys Part# is WT5009 $22.99. I have had this very problem on a few Accords after having already done the Main Relay ( so knowing the Main Relay was good). Starts fine, drive to the store, park come back out and no start for a while with a warm engine, then start.So changed it out and worked like a charm. And since you already did the Main Relay the ECT or TW sensor as Honda calls it, is suspect. Hope it works out for you.

[Jajle]

So I changed the TW Sensor and well, broke something. I accidentally broke off one of the wires on the plug that goes over the TW Sensor. I jerry-rigged it for now with some speaker wire and some picture hangers. Can anyone enlighten me on what those things that you crimp onto wires are called? The ones that slide onto a slip of metal like a plug.

[Bluntman]

So I changed the TW Sensor and well, broke something. I accidentally broke off one of the wires on the plug that goes over the TW Sensor. I jerry-rigged it for now with some speaker wire and some picture hangers. Can anyone enlighten me on what those things that you crimp onto wires are called? The ones that slide onto a slip of metal like a plug.

Do you mean crimp on butt connectors?
http://i39.servimg.com/u/f39/12/59/29/63/connec10.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=744&u=12592963)

[Jajle]

No, these are more of what I would like to use.

http://www.questwww.com/mike/Large%20ringwire%20crimp%20connectors%20(grey).JPG

[Bluntman]

Go to the junkyard and cut out another plug leaving as much wire to it as you can, then cut the broken one off your car and butt connector the new plug from the junkyard on to the wires on your car. If you half ass it you won't know if the sensor works properly, or if it was the half assed wiring. I would say do it right. Just my opinion.:cheers:

[Jajle]

Well I planned on doing it right, this is definitely temporary. The closest junkyard to me is pretty far so I'll probably wait until the weekend to go to it.