Looking for advice on tackling oil leaks

[Harrison_Bergeron]

I have all my parts and will be tackling the major oil leak culprits tomorrow, as well as doing the timing belt and cleaning out the intake manifold. This means oil pump seal, front main seal, oil pan, oil filter base, cam seal, dizzy o-ring, etc. The questions:

How long should this take for a decent mechanic with plenty of tools? I had planned on having four days to deal with any issues, but now have only one, should I hold off until I have more time?

Where should I start? Are there any benefits to doing the oil filter base before the ones under the timing belt cover, or the dizzy before the cam seal, or anything like that?

Are there any particularly difficult to remove fasteners I should douse with pb blaster tonight?

Thanks.

[ecogabriel]

If the oil filter base gasket leaks I would replace that one first. That is one of the gaskets that see full oil pump pressure (the others are in the oil pump).

[2oodoor]

while youre doiing the timing cover you can take the adjusting bolt out of the alternator, loosen the 14mm pivot but leave it in, then remove the belt. Swing the alt towards the firewall and you have a lot more access room to get behind the engine and under the intake manifold then.

[Dr_Snooz]

If you've never done a timing belt service, I'd put that off until you have at least a weekend free. Preferably a three day weekend.

[Harrison_Bergeron]

So, I didn't so anything this weekend, the battery was dead and I didn't feel like pushing the car out of the garage.

Another question: While I am down there should I install a remote oil filter mount? I've seen many comments on how "not simple" it is to get to the oil filter, and have seen at least one member with a relocation kit. Are there any downsides to a remote mount?

[w261w261]

I gather from your post that you have never changed the oil filter yourself.

It's not hard at all, but it is a bit messy, because you have to stick your arm up there, and so that arm may rub on some dirty pieces. If, as you unscrew the filter, you take care to keep the wet end pointed up as it comes off, you won't have a bunch of oil running down your arm. I also use those throwaway latex gloves.

So do it yourself and see what it's about. Why introduce extra complications with some remote thing?

Before I start, I put the new oil on top of the motor. I put the new filter on the creeper (made my life easier than using cardboard), along with a new washer for the oil drain bolt. I have rubbed the filter gasket with some fresh oil, so it doesn't bind when it's screwed on. The car is up on a couple of the small ramps you can buy at Autozone. You might want to get a big oil filter socket-like affair to help you get the old one off, if it's on really tight. Unfortunately, they come in different sizes for different filters. The adjustable strap-like oil filter wrenches I haven't had good luck with on the Accord, there isn't enough room.

When doing jobs like this (or for instance hooking up a trailer), I think it is important to establish a routine and then DO NOT deviate from it, and do not interrupt it. I have changed a lot of oil filters in my now longer life, and it was just a few months ago that as I was about to pour in the new oil (having interrupted myself to answer the phone while I was under the car), something didn't seem quite right...it was just a feeling. It was enough to get me to pause, and sure enough, I had forgotten to put in the new filter, having taken the old one off. Imagine starting the car up and the mess that would have made.

Anyway, drain the oil, put a new washer on the drain plug (I buy them in batches from the dealer), take off the old filter, and screw on the new one, hand tight but about as tight as you can turn it. Then, inspect the boots on the half shafts, and with a flashlight, check the level of the coolant in the bottle. Take a look around for anything else that might not be right (this is another advantage of doing the job yourself, even if it isn't the main one. The main one is you won't strip the threads on the oil pan drain hole like your friendly Valvoline place might, and the recovery from that is painful). Put in 3 3/4 quarts of oil, check the power steering, brake, and windshield washer fluids. Look at the coolant hoses and give them a squeeze. Start the car and roll it off the ramps. Check the level of the oil. You're done. 30 minutes tops.

[Harrison_Bergeron]

I have changed oil before, but I haven't driven my 3gee yet, so I have yet to do it on this car. When I drain it to do the pan gasket and other stuff it will be the first time doing it on this car.

[w261w261]

You sure you need to change the oil pan gasket? Unless you're positive that it's leaking and badly, why not do the others first, because when they leak it all comes down to the oil pan and blows around on it. The oil pan has a crossmember under it, and isn't that great of a job, so don't do it unless you have to.

[2ndGenGuy]

Whatever you do, don't ask any BP engineers to help you with that leak.

[gp02a0083]

Whatever you do, don't ask any BP engineers to help you with that leak.

:D

anyway i know my father uses a few UV dyes that typically gets put into the refrigerant system. If i remember right i think its a polyester dye, easy to use , easy to find leaks , but its a mess and gets everywhere if your not careful. this may be the last alternative you may have to find the leak

[lostforawhile]

Whatever you do, don't ask any BP engineers to help you with that leak.

yea they will drop a giant block of concrete on your car, or cover it in mud. :tongue:

[Harrison_Bergeron]

My plan is just to change everything that can leak, it is all the same rubber, so if one rubber piece has turned to brittle plastic it is likely that it all has, this way I can just get it out of the way before I get too dependent on the car. I am kind of trying to do a resto job, more than a simple repair.

I am lazy though, so if it is a major hassle I'll just tell people you told me it was unnecessary :naughty:

I am pretty sure it is the front main or the oil pump generating the major leak, but all the other are leaking too.


You sure you need to change the oil pan gasket? Unless you're positive that it's leaking and badly, why not do the others first, because when they leak it all comes down to the oil pan and blows around on it. The oil pan has a crossmember under it, and isn't that great of a job, so don't do it unless you have to.