building an engine

[gtmst3]

im sure its on here somewere but i cant find it. im building an engine for my coupe and was thinking about turboing it in the future so i was wondering if i could get a parts list from some of you turbo guys.

[MessyHonda]

how much money you got? il sell you my engine

[gtmst3]

where are you located im not really wanting to pay for shipping on something that heavy

[gtmst3]

what is the min thickness for cylinder walls?

[stephensimmons]

what is the min thickness for cylinder walls?

I've herd of people going 83mm.

[cygnus x-1]

Anything beyond 83.5mm will be getting sketchy with the head gasket sealing. The factory oversize pistons are 83mm so that's no problem.


C|

[AccordEpicenter]

you need head studs, stock head gasket, forged pistons(diamond forged pistons are good), eagle h beam rods (b18a/b rods) new oil and water pumps(genuine honda only), new seals(genuine honda only) and a few other parts. what are your goals?

[gtmst3]

you need head studs, stock head gasket, forged pistons(diamond forged pistons are good), eagle h beam rods (b18a/b rods) new oil and water pumps(genuine honda only), new seals(genuine honda only) and a few other parts. what are your goals?

i dont think i need those rods i dont plan on going that high hp maby 200 horse more would be great but that would make me happy

[lostforawhile]

i dont think i need those rods i dont plan on going that high hp maby 200 horse more would be great but that would make me happy

if you are going through this much trouble, replace the rods, building a turbo engine with factory 25 year old rods is just being cheap. and as far as the oil pump if you can't get ahold of a factory, they do make a melling replacement, i would put one in anything just on their reputation and how many high dollar builds use them

[gtmst3]

if you are going through this much trouble, replace the rods, building a turbo engine with factory 25 year old rods is just being cheap. and as far as the oil pump if you can't get ahold of a factory, they do make a melling replacement, i would put one in anything just on their reputation and how many high dollar builds use them

if i do run a turbo i only want to run low boost no more than 10 i dont think. i want to replace all the parts but i dont want to spend 100$ a rod i dont think i need that much strength. would normal replacement pistons be good enough?

[88LXi68]

if i do run a turbo i only want to run low boost no more than 10 i dont think. i want to replace all the parts but i dont want to spend 100$ a rod i dont think i need that much strength. would normal replacement pistons be good enough?

If you only want to do low boost you might as well just boost the stock engine and just work on engine management. some might argue with me, but I feel there are a plethora of these engines laying around so if something goes wrong you could find a replacement easily. I think low boost on stock/factory setups is fine

[MessyHonda]

people on here have bosted up to 8psi on stock engines...only gets you around 180whp...but yeah a tune will help

[88LXi68]

people on here have bosted up to 8psi on stock engines...only gets you around 180whp...but yeah a tune will help

if he is really only looking for 200whp, then in my opinion 180whp will be just as good

[MessyHonda]

if he is really only looking for 200whp, then in my opinion 180whp will be just as good

yeah i only base it on rendons set up when we went to the dyno...he only needs OBD1 swap with a tune...most of the parts for turbo are hard to get... some one here...maybe jerry can make him a log style mani.

[gtmst3]

yeah i only base it on rendons set up when we went to the dyno...he only needs OBD1 swap with a tune...most of the parts for turbo are hard to get... some one here...maybe jerry can make him a log style mani.


well no matter what im doing a rebuild the motor has 242000. im trying to decide if i want to do a low turbo rebuilt a20 or a n/a rebuilt b20 they would be about the same in cost and power right? p.s. i would have simple mods like header and port and polished head and port matched intake mani etc. on the b20.

[AccordEpicenter]

if your building an engine for boost, id def replace the rods. Eagles are cheap ($350 ish) have excellent rod bolts in them, and will have the right wrist pin size if you go with diamond pistons. If you stick with stock rods, youll have to replace the rod bolts and probably have the ends resized, and I would shot peen them too. For just a little more money you could go with eagles. If your not planning on going over 8psi (which is a waste, id go at least 10psi) just use a stock short block. If your compression is good, your not burning any oil etc, you should be fine with boost. My stock short block held up for a long time, at boost levels wayyy over what you want to run, and even then, the failure wasnt really boost related.

[gtmst3]

ok well i have a b series intake that i want to put on but i dont know where some things go and i dont see how going from a dual runner in my 89 a20a3 to a single off of a b18

[gtmst3]

this is the manifold i have
http://img816.imageshack.us/img816/2151/getattachmentaspx143435.th.jpg (http://img816.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx143435.jpg)

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/1734/getattachmentaspx12345.th.jpg (http://img534.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx12345.jpg)

[gtmst3]

these are the things i dont know what to do with. and also the egr which i dont think i need a pic of. The IAC i can just use one for the b18 intake i would imagine. correct me if im wrong. And then again i have the question of what the benefits are. i understand that the dual stage runners (with the butterflys) on the stock intake is good is it not?

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/1456/getattachmentaspx345143.th.jpg (http://img38.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx345143.jpg)
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/8421/getattachmentaspx245624.th.jpg (http://img534.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx245624.jpg)
http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/9652/getattachmentaspx134545.th.jpg (http://img810.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx134545.jpg)
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/3452/getattachmentaspx13456.th.jpg (http://img38.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx13456.jpg)

[2drSE-i]

The dual stage intake on the 88-89 LX-i manifolds were there mostly for low-end torque control. You will probably lose a good bit of low-end and gain a bit of top end with this new manifold.

I really don't understand the rest of what you typed or what you have circled in the pics.

[gtmst3]

The dual stage intake on the 88-89 LX-i manifolds were there mostly for low-end torque control. You will probably lose a good bit of low-end and gain a bit of top end with this new manifold.

I really don't understand the rest of what you typed or what you have circled in the pics.

do you think it is worth doing then? i enjoy fast acceleration is that what i would be loosing out on?

all the circled items are things that i dont know what to do with because the new manifold has no spot for them. in addition to the circled items are the egr and fuel rail.

[AccordEpicenter]

you need to portmatch the intake manifold to the head or you wont gain much at all. Me personally, id crimp the egr tube and hook up the egr valve and lift sensor but zip tie it up somewhere just so its there. Id use the b series fuel rail and intake air temp, and just plug off the iab lines, they are not needed for this application.

[gtmst3]

you need to portmatch the intake manifold to the head or you wont gain much at all. Me personally, id crimp the egr tube and hook up the egr valve and lift sensor but zip tie it up somewhere just so its there. Id use the b series fuel rail and intake air , just plug off the iab lines, they are not needed for this application.

what are the air intake temp and iab. and why hook up the egr valve and lift sensor but zip tie it up somewhere

[cygnus x-1]

what are the air intake temp and iab. and why hook up the egr valve and lift sensor but zip tie it up somewhere


The intake air temp sensor goes in the port on the #1 cylinder runner. Not sure where it is on the a20 manifold but I imagine it's electrically compatible even if the plugs are different. Don't know what IAB is. The secondary runner valves maybe? Obviously you wouldn't have those on the B manifold. You want to hook up the EGR valve and lift sensor to keep the ECU happy. If you don't it will throw a code. It won't know if they aren't connected to the engine though.

I've had this same B18 manifold on my A20 for awhile now, and honestly I don't really like it. The plenum volume is huge and the throttle response is laggy compared to the Weber (carb) setup I had before that. I haven't tried a stock A20 manifold so can't make that comparison. If you want to get a B series manifold get one with a smaller plenum and shorter runners. The B18B manifold is better and doesn't have as many holes in it to plug (vac ports and stuff). The B16 manifold is the best but harder to find. Otherwise there are aftermarket B18 manifolds that can be modded to fit. Other people here will know more about those than I.


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[gtmst3]

The intake air temp sensor goes in the port on the #1 cylinder runner. Not sure where it is on the a20 manifold but I imagine it's electrically compatible even if the plugs are different. Don't know what IAB is. The secondary runner valves maybe? Obviously you wouldn't have those on the B manifold. You want to hook up the EGR valve and lift sensor to keep the ECU happy. If you don't it will throw a code. It won't know if they aren't connected to the engine though.

I've had this same B18 manifold on my A20 for awhile now, and honestly I don't really like it. The plenum volume is huge and the throttle response is laggy compared to the Weber (carb) setup I had before that. I haven't tried a stock A20 manifold so can't make that comparison. If you want to get a B series manifold get one with a smaller plenum and shorter runners. The B18B manifold is better and doesn't have as many holes in it to plug (vac ports and stuff). The B16 manifold is the best but harder to find. Otherwise there are aftermarket B18 manifolds that can be modded to fit. Other people here will know more about those than I.


C|
ok so im thinking of not doing this then and getting my money back thank you for the info. allthough isnt there more aftermarket support for the b18 like throttle bodies and fuelrails and stuff?

[gtmst3]

question is an 86 lx trans the same as the 89 lxi because the trans in my coupe is going bad and i have an 86 lx that i could use

[lostforawhile]

question is an 86 lx trans the same as the 89 lxi because the trans in my coupe is going bad and i have an 86 lx that i could use

the gear ratios are slightly different, but other then that, they are identical.

[cygnus x-1]

ok so im thinking of not doing this then and getting my money back thank you for the info. allthough isnt there more aftermarket support for the b18 like throttle bodies and fuelrails and stuff?


Well yes, there is. But I can only think of 2 reasons to use an aftermarket fuel rail. 1) you need one custom drilled for non-Honda style injectors. 2) You like it because it looks cool and you have money to burn.

An aftermarket throttle body isn't going to get you anything either unless you have a seriously built engine already. The stock B18 TBs are big enough to handle a fair amount of power.

The best place to put your money into on these engines is the head. And then of course intake/header/exhaust.

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[headbanger]

the lx tranny to me feels like it makes my lxi lowered geared.I have ran to different lx ones in mine an both of them was the same.I think they are that way cause lx was lower hp.I know on interstate you can really tell diff.

[gtmst3]

the lx tranny to me feels like it makes my lxi lowered geared.I have ran to different lx ones in mine an both of them was the same.I think they are that way cause lx was lower hp.I know on interstate you can really tell diff.

yeah im worried about that because i do alot of hiway driving i wonder if there is a way to get the lxi 5th gear in the lx im talking about an auto tranny by the way

[88LXi68]

yeah im worried about that because i do alot of hiway driving i wonder if there is a way to get the lxi 5th gear in the lx im talking about an auto tranny by the way

if you are going to stay auto trans I wouldn't do any performance rebuild as it is just negated by the crapomatic. get a 5spd LXi trans and be done with it as it will be decent all around where as a carb trans will be a better from like 75mph up

[gtmst3]

if you are going to stay auto trans I wouldn't do any performance rebuild as it is just negated by the crapomatic. get a 5spd LXi trans and be done with it as it will be decent all around where as a carb trans will be a better from like 75mph up

i want to do the swap the problem at the molment is money i have the carb trans for free next i will do a 5 speed

[gtmst3]

so i just got the trans out what a bitch it took me 4 1/2-5 hours now i need to clean it but how do i do that without ruining it?

[lostforawhile]

crapomatic. :bowrofl: I hate slushboxes, there's one in the 98 and I absolutely hate it!!, go with the five speed and never look back.

[mushroom_toy]

I love the carbed tranny...70, 80 or more mph on the expressway and im at around 3-3200 or so....love it

[gtmst3]

there she is in all of her dirty Glory lol. does anyone know where i can get axle seals

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/7884/getattachmentaspx123.th.jpg (http://img42.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx123.jpg)

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/7544/getattachmentaspx1234.th.jpg (http://img23.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx1234.jpg)

[lostforawhile]

there she is in all of her dirty Glory lol. does anyone know where i can get axle seals

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/7884/getattachmentaspx123.th.jpg (http://img42.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx123.jpg)

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/7544/getattachmentaspx1234.th.jpg (http://img23.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx1234.jpg)
Nappa, they aren't that much

[gtmst3]

Nappa, they aren't that much

kool thanks i checked advanced auto and they only had a bunch of things i have never heard of with no pics lol

[lostforawhile]

kool thanks i checked advanced auto and they only had a bunch of things i have never heard of with no pics lol

make sure to specify auto or manual transmission, they are different.

[gtmst3]

yeah i did i watch them lol to make sure they click the right things

[gtmst3]

okan ls is a b16 right? because this crack head dosent know whathes talking about
"its a bare ls manifold. It wont work on a b16"

[gtmst3]

oh and by the way idk if this is available but here. by the way i have this for a 1990 integra ls, 1992 integra ls, and a 1991 integra ls, the gsr and gs are the same as the ls

http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/2165/scan0001ib.th.jpg (http://img37.imageshack.us/my.php?image=scan0001ib.jpg)

[gtmst3]

ok so second gear works intermittently when under load like if the car downshifts getting on the highway it will go straight to redline until i let off the gas and i shifts back into third or forth. or if i lock it in second by the shifter its just like being in neutral sometimes it works though. ive been told to change the fluid but i dont think that will help.

[MessyHonda]

you need to adjust the throtle cable that goes to the tranny

[gtmst3]

ok so i broke this thing and idk what it is. does anyone know what its called so i can ask for it.. it controles my idle it sucks in air and if i plug it it stalls and if i half cover it it idles close to fine

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/3084/getattachmentaspx456.th.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx456.jpg)

http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/5899/getattachmentaspx546.th.jpg (http://img64.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx546.jpg)

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1690/getattachmentaspx4565.th.jpg (http://img824.imageshack.us/my.php?image=getattachmentaspx4565.jpg)

[gtmst3]

nvm the wonderful guys at the naugatuck autozone helped me figure it out it was the pcv valve. the only problem was that i couldent get the bottom of the old valve out i had to break it inot peices cuz it was so brittle and i know a few pieces fell down into the tube hope it dosent hurt too much neext oil change im gonna drop the pan clean it and change the gasket. how hard it it to change the fromt main seal mine is leaking kinda bad

[cygnus x-1]

nvm the wonderful guys at the naugatuck autozone helped me figure it out it was the pcv valve. the only problem was that i couldent get the bottom of the old valve out i had to break it inot peices cuz it was so brittle and i know a few pieces fell down into the tube hope it dosent hurt too much neext oil change im gonna drop the pan clean it and change the gasket. how hard it it to change the fromt main seal mine is leaking kinda bad


Don't bother dropping the pan just to find the valve pieces, because you won't. They fell into the oil separator box and will reside there until the end of the universe.


C|

[gtmst3]

Don't bother dropping the pan just to find the valve pieces, because you won't. They fell into the oil separator box and will reside there until the end of the universe.


C|

so i basically shouldent worry about it?? wont the plastic break down?

[cygnus x-1]

so i basically shouldent worry about it?? wont the plastic break down?


If you wait long enough, yeah. But it will still be sitting in that box. The box is baffled so that stuff can't fall back into the oil pan.

You might want to do the oil pan gasket anyway if you have oil leaks. The pan gasket is one of the usual suspects for leaks.


C|

[gtmst3]

ok cool thanks