AC compressor refresh

[rc00netzero]

Looking for some opinions from anyone whose reworked their AC.
The history is my lxi developed a leak 2-3 years ago so rather than spend $$$ on getting it repaired, I did a quick convert with a kit. Even tho I didn't pull a vacuum on it, just evacuated the r12, it worked ok and blew cold as long as I refilled it every 3-5 weeks during the summer. I did put in dye, but was never able to spot the leak. Until last weekend when after charging I shut the car off and heard hissing from the compressor (Denso 10P15E). After a bit of checking I found it was leaking from the manifold where the lines connect - so I think maybe blown o-ring.

So here is my plan -
1 Remove compressor (plug lines) and clean (DONE :) )
1A Get new discharge and suction hoses b/c I found one is swollen and the other seems to have a "loose" end :banghead:.
2 Disassemble manifold
3 pour out and measure mineral oil
4 replace with appropriate amount of ester oil (allowing for hose and rcvr/dryer replacement)
5 Reassemble manifold w/ new o-rings and reinstall compressor
6 Replace Receiver/Dryer
7 Pull Vac and if no leak :nervous: recharge.

So far it looks good - no obvious junk in the lines - I'll know better when I open the manifold. Any suggestions?

[LX-incredible]

Yep, the 10P15 is very prone to the high side o-rings blowing out, especially with 134a. I guarantee that one blew out closest to the corner without the bolt. There is a piece that goes between the compressor and manifold. Remove it and the dowels. Sand down both sides a bit and be sure it's level. This will help to compress the o-rings a little better.

Double end capped PAG is a better choice if flushing. Ester was made for the old york crankshaft compressors, not our swash-plate Densos.

[rc00netzero]

Double end capped PAG is a better choice if flushing. Ester was made for the old york crankshaft compressors, not our swash-plate Densos.

I was hoping to avoid a flush ( lota work or lota $$) so thats why the ester oil - would it be better to leave in the mineral oil ester oil mix? Or is that type of PAG compatible with old R12 systems? I had read never use PAG unless doing a full re-build b/c it's too hard to get all the r12/mineral oil residue out.

[rc00netzero]

oh and LX-incredible - thanks for the info on the 10P15. I was hoping someone would be able to confirm my suspicion. With a little luck maybe I won't have to spring for a new compressor. :)

I hope to get it working soon - summer in AL with no AC is like :burn:

[Dr_Snooz]

The drier holds about a 1/3 oz. of oil so you'll want to replace that when you swap it out.

[rc00netzero]

Yes Doc, I saw that in the Service Manual.

Thing is, my compressor didn't seem to have any measurable amount of oil. I am guessing the leak let most of the oil out of the compressor. Good thing it blew out rather than continuing to leak - might have ruined the compressor. I saw on one site http://www.gcsnetwork.com/menu/product_view.htm?pr_id=30&PHPSESSID=439d53b787b03be3a79176ed32f1032dwhere the Denso 10P15 comes with 120cc of oil (4oz - although that was PAG46) when new/rebuilt. That seems to match with total system capacity of 7 oz.

So rinsed it with ester oil and filled it with 110cc (120 - 30 + 10 + 10 because I am replacing the receiver and a hose) I replaced the manifold seals (Santech part no's MT2561 and MT0453 from Autozone). It's now ready to go back in (I hope) I guessed at 30ft-lbs for the manifold bolt torque since I couldn't find a spec. Everything looks clean and the compressor seems to build pressure when I turn it by hand.

Oh and when I opened up the manifold - one of the O-rings was a C-ring - so I think that might have been the problem!

[LX-incredible]

What did you pay for the rectangular low side seal (MT0453)? They got me for $15 at the ac shop, which the guy reduced from the $18 list.

Unlike standard PAG, Double end capped PAG is compatible with R12. I have no idea if it would mix well with mineral or ester oil...

[rc00netzero]

I think it was about $10 - even at $18 it would be waay better than $250 for another compressor. Although, if I ever do have to replace it, I think I will try to get a 10PA15E with manifold, as I understand that is a drop-in.

I was not aware the double-end cap PAG was R12 compatible - I had heard it was more stable. What I am still not sure about is how to tell double from single - most containers just seem to say PAGn where n is the viscosity.

As for mixing with other oils, ester is supposedly a "universal mixer", but I have heard that PAG and mineral do not mix, although I think double-end doesn't react with it either. I have read discussions about mineral oil "parking" in the receiver and condenser when used with PAG. It doesn't cause damage, but I think it does lower cooling performance slightly.

[LX-incredible]

The containers are marked "double end capped", "for use with r12 and r134a". It's a bit more expensive than standard PAG.

The 10PA15E will indeed drop right in as long as you get one the with the clutch and manifold. Hopefully you wont need one for a while.

[ecogabriel]

This is what happens with regular PAG oil (NOT double-end capped PAG) when it finds chlorine (r-12)

http://www.autofrost.com/hotshot/index.html

Also, double end capped PAG oil DOES NOT absorb humidity like regular PAG does. I have the link in the computer at home...

Supercool brand is a double end capped PAG. There are others out there too. http://www.ackits.com/c/Compressoroils/Auto+AC+Compressor+Oils.html



AS for mixing PAG and mineral oil, try to find online ACURA's service bulletin on r-134a conversions. It specifically says that not removing mineral oil is OK. If you do not find it, send me a PM and I'll see where I have a PDF copy of it

[rc00netzero]

IT'S ALIVE (followed by evil laugh)
replaced the receiver/dryer and pulled vacuum - leak test looked OK charged with 1 & 2/3 can of R134 and now getting 65 degree air :rockon:

Thanks for the info on Dbl End PAG, but I ended up staying with the ESTER - I didn't want to take the compressor apart again. PAG might be a better oil but the ester should lube fairly well and might help clean up any mineral oil residue in the system.

I am getting good results now and hopefully it will hold the r134 in longer than the 1 month it had been holding before the blowout. I ended up keeping the suction hose with the slightly loose end - was going to take too long to get a replacement.

Also be aware the AutoZone hoses are not always a perfect fit. Mine required enlargement of the holes for the alignment pins especially at the compressor end.:chainsaw: