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Mchacustoms
07-23-2010, 05:50 PM
So I am starting to feel really special today. I went to replace to front main seal, cam seal timing belt etc etc. and when I got down to crank and got the pulleys off I could not get the seal out. it is driving me insane. I have the seal puller the one that looks like a T I have never used it because when I am pulling a front main seal I am usually pulling crank out. So yea. Then I could not get the oil pan to come off. I removed all the bolts around the pan and even took off the exhaust hanger that is right by the pan and I still could not get it to budge. Any tips or tricks?

Also can I just pop off the last main cap and replace the seal like that?

Dr_Snooz
07-23-2010, 08:18 PM
Use a flat-bladed screwdriver. Jam it through the soft rubber of the seal and pry against the steel to get it out. It will work. You'll probably have to beat on the oil pan to get it to move. It seals up pretty tight.

Good luck.

Mchacustoms
07-24-2010, 12:18 PM
Use a flat-bladed screwdriver. Jam it through the soft rubber of the seal and pry against the steel to get it out. It will work. You'll probably have to beat on the oil pan to get it to move. It seals up pretty tight.

Good luck.

Yea I bent 2 screwdrivers doing that lol. So yea I am getting very frustrated. Hmmmm very upsetting!

Dr_Snooz
07-24-2010, 02:53 PM
Buy better screwdrivers. If they can't win against the flimsy steel band in an oil seal, it's time to throw them out.

Ayeobe
07-24-2010, 02:58 PM
Could alwease buy something made to pry instead of made to drive screws? Lol. maybe just this once, listen to all that safety shit about usin the right tool for the job.

Rendon LX-i
07-24-2010, 04:19 PM
I had to use a harmer with my screw driver. hit pry move hit pry move did that all around. Takes a bit. use a rubber malet if you have to. ...

lostforawhile
07-24-2010, 04:23 PM
did you get the nuts way up at the ends of the oil pan? right next to the seal on both ends. both ends have nuts on them. as far as the seal, I carefully drill a hole in it, and screw in a sheet metal screw, grab it with a pair of vice grips and it will pop right out.

Dr_Snooz
07-24-2010, 07:47 PM
Be sure to oil the seal before installing it too.

Mchacustoms
07-25-2010, 04:15 PM
Be sure to oil the seal before installing it too.

Well I was afraid to break it using the screwdriver, but after a day of being all frustrated and upset I decided to say who gives a damn oil pans are not that expensive. So I got my big mallet out and used the screwdriver it popped right off I felt silly. But yea got it off cleaned it made sure it was straight all that good stuff. even got the front seal off using a similiar method, oiled new seal and drove it back in.

Now I am stuck in another situation for getting the engine to TDC on the crank do I line up the dot on thecrank timing gear with the line on the block? It is down by the bottom of the pulley correct? When I looked in the manual all i found for timing is using the crank acc pulley not the timing gear. So which one is it? Also I thought about using a small 1/4 extension in sparkplug number 1 but I dont have a thin wall spark plug socket so no dice on that.


Also the nut that connects the altenator bracket to the water pump was stripped my question is what do you guys suggest? I cant run without that bolt because its needed to hold the alt in place, but I want to replace the water pump?

Dr_Snooz
07-25-2010, 08:08 PM
Don't sweat it bro. It's better to be overly cautious than to have to fix a lot of broken stuff. There's no shame in being too careful.

Use the flywheel to set the crank to TDC. There should be a "T" on it, align that with the pointer on the block. Set the camshaft to TDC using the marks on the cam gear. They should align with the head and the "UP" should be up.


When I looked in the manual all i found for timing is using the crank acc pulley not the timing gear.

That doesn't sound like the Honda manual telling you that.


Also I thought about using a small 1/4 extension in sparkplug number 1 but I dont have a thin wall spark plug socket so no dice on that.

I'm not sure I understand the question here. Are you changing plugs or trying to keep the crank from turning while you torque the pulley?


Also the nut that connects the altenator bracket to the water pump was stripped my question is what do you guys suggest? I cant run without that bolt because its needed to hold the alt in place, but I want to replace the water pump?

Can you take a picture of the bolt in question? If it's just a stripped nut or bolt, then buy a replacement from OSH. If it's a threaded rod on a larger piece, then you might need to make a quick junkyard run to replace the piece.

lostforawhile
07-25-2010, 08:16 PM
when the up mark is facing up, there is a mark on the side of the timing gear, it will line up with the edge of the head at top dead center. once the belt is on, with the tensionser pulley still away from the belt, you will turn the engine over by hand a couple of times, then put tension on the belt, before you do this, pull all your spark plugs, and if you feel any resistance turning over the engine, like something hit, STOP!! this means a valve is hitting, or something is wrong, there is a lot of debate if these are interference engines or not, just be safe.

Mchacustoms
07-25-2010, 08:35 PM
Use the flywheel to set the crank to TDC. There should be a "T" on it, align that with the pointer on the block. Set the camshaft to TDC using the marks on the cam gear. They should align with the head and the "UP" should be up.

Where is this mark on the flywheel? What I mean was you drop a long extension into the spark plug hole and so that it sticks out and you turn engine over slowly the extension would rise outta the hole then start to go back down you just watch it and you can determine tdc from that. At least thats one way but I really dislike doing that.

The cam is lined up, so was the crank but it moved a little bit during gear removal so yea. Its a few teeth off.



As for the stripped bolt it is the nut the holds the alt bracket to the block. But inbetween the alt bracket and the block a corner of the water pump is held.

Mchacustoms
07-25-2010, 09:15 PM
Ok so after some forums searching I found the timing mark and even found it on my car but could find the T I will search harder in the morning when My vision is not dependant on a crappy flashlight. Any tips are suggestions?