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88lxi-shortram
07-29-2010, 01:19 PM
ok im planning on pulling the engine out of the accord and it will be my first engine pull that ive been responsible for doing. i have no idea where to start so if anyone could tell me wat i need to do to pull it out any help would be appreciated

2oodoor
07-29-2010, 01:34 PM
there were a few write ups here about giving you a clue...here's one of them http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7316

Dr_Snooz
07-29-2010, 07:43 PM
You want to download the service manual and read the section on pulling the engine very carefully. Then follow it to the letter.

http://honda.roadpwnage.com/manuals/pages/usdm-accord-1989-full.php

Shilo
07-29-2010, 08:35 PM
Follow the manual, and make sure you label all your vacuum lines and wires so you aren't looking at diagrams trying to remember where where they all go :thumbup:. You might want to label your fuel lines and coolant hoses as well. Good luck :D.

88lxi-shortram
07-29-2010, 09:20 PM
ok thx for the help and links but on another note ive been wanting to do a 5 speed conversion and i see this as the perfect opportunity to do so. but anyone have an idea of what ill need to do to do the swap correctly?

Shilo
07-30-2010, 12:13 AM
ok thx for the help and links but on another note ive been wanting to do a 5 speed conversion and i see this as the perfect opportunity to do so. but anyone have an idea of what ill need to do to do the swap correctly?

You will need, transmission, clutch/pressure plate, flywheel, starter, clutch cable, pedals, shifter, shift rod, torque rod/shifter plate, and possibly a few other things. I'm sure there is a good write up on the swap somewhere. I have all the parts in my LXi that I'm stripping down and using most of the interior and all the stuff for the EFI. The transmission does has 289,000 miles, so I would suggest you check local junkyards for one (not worth the shipping costs for one that will be needing a rebuild), but if you want the other stuff PM me.

A18A
07-30-2010, 02:02 AM
Because I'm bored, I'm going to write up what I normally do, kinda in this order.

Turn the key to ACC
Plug mp3 player into stereo
Turn music up
Remove the bonnet (4 10mm bolts, window washer hose)
Remove air intake piping (2 10mm bolts, the rest should just come off by hand)
Undo throttle cable (12mm nut)
Remove distributor/unplug wire(s)
Undo clutch cable (if manual)
Undo engine ground from gearbox (10mm bolt)
Undo speed sensor (1 10mm bolt)
Undo the fuel feed line from the fuel rail (17mm nut)
Undo dog bone mount (1 19mm bolt)
Undo the fuel return hose (spring clamp)
Undo that red hose from the throttle body
Undo cruise control actuator vacuum hose from manifold
Undo brake booster hose from intake manifold
Undo power steering hoses from pump/undo the whole pump from the motor
Undo ground cable from the body to the rocker cover (10mm bolt)
Unplug engine loom from right side of engine bay
Unplug engine loom from the battery area
Undo alternator charge wire from fuse box (1 screw)
Undo air con pump (4 12mm bolts)
Undo radiator hoses from engine (spring clamps)
Undo heater core hoses from the engine
Undo black box from firewall (2 10mm bolts & unplug)
Undo cruise control actuator & unplug (2 10mm bolts)

then after all that fiddely stuff from there has been removed, loosen the front wheel nuts, jack the car up off the ground as high as you can, support the
car on jack stands, block wheels, etc..
remove front wheels
undo the shifter cable from gearbox (should only be a few 10 & 12mm bolts) if auto
undo the shift linkages (1 10mm bolt holding the stabilizer to the gearbox & 1 12mm bolt on the shifter which is easier to access from the top) if manual
unbolt the exhaust down pipe from the block & manifold (2 12mm nuts & 3 or 4 14mm nuts on the manifold, usually rusted stuck lol)

undo the axles. For this I usually loosen the lower ball joint nuts (17mm, with a split pin usually) then hammer away at the control arm to shock it loose from the ball joint then lift the hub off the control arm. after that, decide if you want to undo the axles from the inner cv joints, or remove the whole axle & cv joint from the gearbox. if you remove them from the gearbox, drain the oil/ATF first, if not, then just loosen the bands around the cv joints. After that is done, pull the hub outwards to get it out of the gearbox/cv joint. if you decided to undo the axle from the cv joint, be sure to have something clean layed out on the ground to catch the bearings lol.

with the axles out of the gearbox, put the hub back in the control arm, and put the 17mm nut back on
install front wheels
put car back on ground
remove battery (normally 2 10mm nuts on the terminals & 2 10mm nuts on the holder) bubai music
remove the battery tray (4 or 5 10mm bolts)
get your hoist ready
tripple check everything between the car & the motor is out of the way, I probably didn't mention everything
undo the front & rear engine mounts (2 14mm nuts)
bolt the chain to the lifting points on the engine (1 at the front right of the engine bay, the other on the gearbox behind where the clutch cable goes. make the chain go behind the distributor, instead of in front)
connect the hoist to the chain on the engine, slightly to the right side of the motor, so it lifts out on a angle. put a screw driver or something in the chain if you have to
start lifting the engine till the slack is gone
make sure the chain isn't going to be putting stress on anything you dont want it to
unbolt the side engine mount (2 14mm bolts & 1 on the side)
lift it up slowly & keep checking to make sure nothings gonna catch on anything
celebrate

If you want more space in the engine bay to work with, you can also remove the radiator & its support. That would free up lots of room.

I probably missed some stuff, but you get the idea.

InAccordance
07-30-2010, 06:23 AM
pro tip, if its an auto, make sure to disconnect the shift cable... or you can be like me and lift a car up with it....
that is one stout ass cable!

snoopyloopy
07-31-2010, 03:22 PM
i just pulled and reinstalled a motor w/ another member last week and a18a did a pretty thorough job of describing the process. two-three people working makes it a heck of a lot faster and easier, as long as they know what they're doing. so what i'm really saying is get a helper

88lxi-shortram
08-01-2010, 07:31 AM
yea i need to find help because nobody around here knows what theyre doing .... the main problem is neither do i...

Dr_Snooz
08-01-2010, 07:44 PM
If it's your first time pulling an engine, I'd recommend you not throw the tranny in to the job too. It's makes for a much bigger project and if something doesn't work right at the end, there will be too many places for the problem to be. I did the swap while I was also rebuilding my engine. It took me a year to get it all done and when I went for the first start and the power was all dead, I was like "oh God now what." Just get the engine going and then tackle the trans after you get all the engine bugs worked out.

88lxi-shortram
08-01-2010, 08:14 PM
you make a good point on the whole problem pinpoint issue... but i really want to try to get some georgia members down here to help me and teach me a few things. anyone interested in trying to round up a few people?...

88lxi-shortram
08-04-2010, 07:19 PM
ok another question... does the transmission have to come out with the engine or can i put a jack under it and just unbolt it from the engine?

A18A
08-04-2010, 08:03 PM
it doesn't have to, but it's a hell of a lot easier if you leave it on the engine

88lxi-shortram
08-05-2010, 12:12 PM
ok thanks for the advice hopefully i can get around to at least pulling the engine sometime soon but i got hit in the face with even more school dues to pay including 700$ for community service... WTF i have to pay to do coomunity service!!!??? and thatll put a big dent in the money for my engine :(

88lxi-shortram
08-16-2010, 12:55 PM
ok i let this thread die but tomoro i will start unbolting and removing what has been listed... i will need help along the way so plz every1 whos been helping try to keep up to date on the thread... thx for the support let cross some fingers

jigga89SEi
08-16-2010, 02:18 PM
Don't forget to take lots of pics.. they help when stuff is going back together..

88lxi-shortram
08-16-2010, 03:27 PM
yup my camera is about to get used more than ever and hopefully i can get this done right without destroying my car...

mushroom_toy
08-16-2010, 04:37 PM
^you can just take your time and document, thats the most important thing.

88lxi-shortram
08-16-2010, 05:03 PM
ive got a binder full of paper and notecards and a camper to store parts and keep organized... plus a good break place. :)

88lxi-shortram
08-16-2010, 06:44 PM
another question:
where are the best lift points on the engine...
or how should i position the chain?
pics would be helpful if any1 has some

Dr_Snooz
08-16-2010, 07:33 PM
Get into the manual. It's all in there. Proper lift points, proper procedure, proper order for unbolting everything. It's a goldmine.

A18A
08-16-2010, 07:53 PM
i put the chain to that obvious one on the top of the motor that bolts to the head, and the other end to one of those ones on the gearbox, and lift it up on a angle like this
http://a.imageshack.us/img571/2909/img0049medium.jpg

88lxi-shortram
08-17-2010, 06:22 AM
i had a manual but it got soaked so i gotta buy a new one... but any suggestions as to which manual to look for? or just anyone from autozone or advance ect....?

88lxi-shortram
08-17-2010, 11:29 AM
is the throttle cable on the manifold? the reason i ask is because my nut is only 11mm not 12.... and where is the gearbox? is the ground in the pictures the right one?
throttle cable?: http://a.imageshack.us/img695/62/1000471o.jpg
ground?: http://a.imageshack.us/img188/2293/1000472la.jpg

2oodoor
08-17-2010, 01:35 PM
you should google general information first, such as how to remove front wheel drive car engines and etc,,,
the best manual is free and is downloadable, you were given the link in this thread.
Eleven MM ? on what may I ask?

everything is 8,10, 12,14, for the most part

It has been too dam hot for me to even do the slightest thing on any of my cars much less drive out to help.. unless you have an air conditioned shop. lol

88lxi-shortram
08-17-2010, 02:02 PM
i found a manual laying around from a long time ago so im using that... and the 11mm im talking about is the nut that is on the throttle body and its connects the throttle cable to a circular plate and a spring that returns the throttle to its idle position.

as far as the heat i dont need to worry much because the car is parked in the shade 24/7 and i always have a fan blowing on me (unless im writing alot that day then turn them around to suck hot air away... but pulling the engine out will be outside in the shade but installing the new engine will be done in an air conditioned shop... i go to a technical school for auto class and my teacher said its cool to have the new engine delivered there and i can install it there... lol i wish i had an a/c shop id invite you in a heartbeat. any help is great and i need it

88lxi-shortram
08-18-2010, 11:03 AM
ok so far ive removed a few things from the engine, labeled and bagged them as well:
intake
hood
done bone mount
fuel feed
but i need help with the two questions i posted up and i need help with the lift points because i was going through my manual and it show there is one spot behind the valve cover and in the picture its plain as day but when i look at mine i dont see that lift point. i was wondering if it was hidden or if im missing something

88lxi-shortram
08-18-2010, 11:57 AM
just wondering do i remove or just disconnect the speed sensor?

A18A
08-18-2010, 03:48 PM
maybe someone removed your lift point, you can just bolt the chain into the head though. yes you do have to remove the speed sensor, easiest way is to undo the 10mm bolt holding it in, and then wriggle the whole thing around till it comes out, then just move it aside. that way is easier cause you don't have to undo the 2 hoses or cable going to it

88lxi-shortram
08-18-2010, 04:03 PM
ok so just to be clear i leave it kind of hanging there? and also have you had a chance to see the 2 pics i uploaded on my earlier post? its buggin me that i cant figure those out and noone has left any feedback on it so if you spread your wisdom it would be great:bowrofl:

A18A
08-18-2010, 04:49 PM
yeah, just push it out of the way and you'll be fine. loosen this nut here (12mm) all the way to the other side of that part of the cable so you can pull it off that bracket
http://a.imageshack.us/img444/305/cvgjkgyjyk.jpg
the one on the gearbox will be similar

88lxi-shortram
08-18-2010, 05:05 PM
ok that saved my ass because i almost took off that spring loaded plate but i knew it was better to ask then make a huge mistake... idk wat it was but it just felt wrong when i was taking it off. ill do the speed sensor tomoro hopefully lol ill probably use a whole can of degreaser trying to clean it enough to get a grip so well see what happens... but heres an update of todays work:
-i got the red hose from the throttle body (luckily i knew what you were refering to because i replaced mine with a black one)
-disconnected brake booster hose
-removed alternator charge wire
-removed black box from firewall(surprisingly was harder than expected the dam clip didnt want to unclip.
-and got my camper cleaned up the way i need to so now im organized and i established a notebook for notes and daily work log along with a manual.
**should i remove the radiator or leave it in there?**

A18A
08-18-2010, 07:07 PM
if you like having lots of space to work with, yesssss.

88lxi-shortram
08-18-2010, 07:20 PM
ok then im definitly taking it off because im really impatient... so i guess im adding that to my list for tomoro... radiator, speed sensor, throttle cable and maybe some small things but a few more questions...
-where is the return hose?
-and where is the cruise control actuator? ive been wanting to remove cruise control for a while anyways but could never get an answer..

A18A
08-18-2010, 07:31 PM
http://a.imageshack.us/img535/1792/img0163medium.jpg
that thing in the red circle is teh cruise control actuator, much more room without it (Y) also the fuel return line is the line coming out of the firewall where teh blue arrow is

88lxi-shortram
08-19-2010, 02:07 AM
ok thx... ill get on that as soon as i get home from school today and hopefully if time permits i should have the whole first list completed by either today of friday

88lxi-shortram
08-19-2010, 04:23 PM
update and questions:
finished:
-speed sensor
-cruise control actuator removed
-return hose disconnected
-disconnected some hose that i think was a heater core hose or something and found out that antifreeze just keeps coming and coming lol
i didnt get alot done because it rained and i had to help my friend with his civic but tomoro is friday and i will be working extra hard if weather permits.
questions:
-the power steering pump is the pump right to the left of the fluid resivoir correct?
-also one bolt doesnt want to cum off of the power steering pump i sprayed it with WD40 to let it soak over night but you have any suggestions how to get it out without rounding it off?
-do i really need to remove the distributer? ive had some yes answers and some no's so do i?
-when you say engine loom do you mean the mounts? if not what is a loom?

A18A
08-19-2010, 06:20 PM
update and questions:
finished:
-speed sensor
-cruise control actuator removed
-return hose disconnected
-disconnected some hose that i think was a heater core hose or something and found out that antifreeze just keeps coming and coming lol
if it was the 2 hoses coming out of the firewall, that was indeed the heater core hoses
i didnt get alot done because it rained and i had to help my friend with his civic but tomoro is friday and i will be working extra hard if weather permits.
questions:
-the power steering pump is the pump right to the left of the fluid resivoir correct?
yes
-also one bolt doesnt want to cum off of the power steering pump i sprayed it with WD40 to let it soak over night but you have any suggestions how to get it out without rounding it off?
if it doesn't come off, you can leave the pump on the engine and just undo the lines going to the pump
-do i really need to remove the distributer? ive had some yes answers and some no's so do i?
it's not completely necessary to remove it, it's up to you really
-when you say engine loom do you mean the mounts? if not what is a loom?
engine loom as in the plugs and stuff

88lxi-shortram
08-19-2010, 06:25 PM
by plugs you mean electrical? if you have any pics that would be great but if not ill go look at it tomoro and see what i think you mean and post pics...
by the way a few more questions:
as far as a lift goes i found a 2 ton pulley type of lift that i wanted to hook to the stand of a punching bag... it has the base of a lift just no lift... do you thnk itll be safe?

A18A
08-19-2010, 08:18 PM
yeah lol electrical plugs. umm that depends on the setup, got pics? a engine & box probably weighs a couple hundred KG, so if you and a couple other people can safely hang from it and such, a engine should be safe

88lxi-shortram
08-20-2010, 02:16 AM
no pics for now... but ill try to get some u tomoro but heres a link to the actual pulley/lift (the real worker)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160468291224&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

A18A
08-20-2010, 03:31 AM
haha yeah that will do the job no sweat. mines the same & i've lifted the whole front of a commodore with it :)

88lxi-shortram
08-20-2010, 06:00 AM
ok so now i just have to wait til schools over and we can go play monkey on that bag stand lol

Civic Accord Honda
08-20-2010, 01:11 PM
for stuck on bolts use ether pb blaster or a hammer and wrench lol, wd40 is pretty useless


pb blaster is strong enough to get 20 year old rusted exhaust bolts off and much more haha does the job good

88lxi-shortram
08-20-2010, 04:36 PM
i tried wrench+hammer and it kiled 2 of my sockets lol... but i dont need to remove it so i left it alone.

on other news.... i took the hood off again to start work today hoping to finish the job... when my tool box opened rain started to fall it sux but im being patient... take my time and take notes(hard to do when rain is taking my time from me). o well another time another day i guess

88lxi-shortram
08-22-2010, 10:39 AM
ok well i got rained out on friday and yesterday the forum didnt want to work on my labtop. but heres an update:
basically i got everything done on the first list except the a/c pump... the two bolts that connect the thick line to the compressor are stuck and my friend has some pb blaster hes going to loan me so thats got to wait until tomoro to get a hold of that so well see whats going to happen. but i got alot done including the radiator off and everything in the front is out of my way :)

Dr_Snooz
08-22-2010, 07:26 PM
ok well i got rained out on friday and yesterday the forum didnt want to work on my labtop. but heres an update:
basically i got everything done on the first list except the a/c pump... the two bolts that connect the thick line to the compressor are stuck and my friend has some pb blaster hes going to loan me so thats got to wait until tomoro to get a hold of that so well see whats going to happen. but i got alot done including the radiator off and everything in the front is out of my way :)

Have you read the engine removal instructions in the manual? You shouldn't have to remove the AC lines. You really, really, really want to read those carefully as the time spent will more than make up for itself in the aggravation and frustration you save yourself.

A18A
08-22-2010, 07:43 PM
indeed, unbolt the A/C from the motor & leave the lines attached. would save having to regas it when you put a new motor back in

88lxi-shortram
08-23-2010, 06:06 AM
lol i need to regas it anyways it hasnt worked since i bought it... but im hnestly thinking bout leaving the transmission in the car o save me the time of removeing ball joints et.... i dont know anything about that kind of stuff... any advice?

A18A
08-23-2010, 06:44 AM
you don't have to remove the ball joints, just separate them from the control arm (it's just the lower ones you have to undo) simply remove the split pin, remove the nut, and loosely put it back on (to protect the thread in case you slip with the hammer), then hammer the side of the control arm. A few hard whacks should shock it loose, then pull the nut off & you can just lift the whole hub off the control arm :D

also if you leave the gearbox in the car, you will probably have a difficult time unbolting the gearbox from the motor & the mount & torque covnerter, etc.., also separating them from each other, then with what very little space you have left to work with, will have to pull the motor out. the only work you have to do with leaving the gearbox on the motor is undoing the axles, linkages and speed sensor. IMO it's a LOT easier & straight forward doing that

88lxi-shortram
08-23-2010, 04:58 PM
ok ill give it a try if i could ever get the dam a/c pump and the exhaust off... the ac bolts just wont come off even with pb blaster and it made me so mad that i quit and started the exhaust but i cant undo the thing that comes from the left side of the manifold... i tryed loosing it but it was stubborn and before i broke something i just quit for the day and calmed down.. if anyone knows what i should do tell me :)

Civic Accord Honda
08-23-2010, 05:44 PM
spray the pb on them, smash the bolts with a hammer then spray moar pb blaster and let soak, i just took my parents exahust off there car and they came out easy with pb blaster and the cars from alaska so its rusty as hell!


also is the bolts on the ac u cant get off just on the hose? if u want just chop the lines off then unbolt hte ac from the motor and throw the ac in the garbage to gain some power ^_^

88lxi-shortram
08-23-2010, 06:20 PM
lol no idc about power right now i just need something reliable but when i pull the old motor out i plan on making it a learning expierience and trying to run it low compression for boost later on down the road.... ill try the hammer idea tomoro and if not i might go buy one of those sockets that grip down on rounded bolts... i think theyre called griptite or something

88lxi-shortram
08-24-2010, 05:17 PM
plus the a/c doesnt want to unbolt from the motor either...

2oodoor
08-25-2010, 03:51 AM
plus the a/c doesnt want to unbolt from the motor either...

probably the most difficult part of pulling one of these out is that... friggen 23523456 bolts and a secret sequence has to be done to access them so when you get back from the Daali Lamaa with the code let us know;)

88lxi-shortram
08-25-2010, 04:58 PM
lol wow but seriously i tryed again today and i used alot of pb blaster and still no result.... so now im at a dead end... wat to do wat to do...

Dr_Snooz
08-25-2010, 07:56 PM
Try this one:

http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64355&highlight=free+frozen+bolts

If nothing there works, then you pretty much get to go to Harbor Freight and buy a compressor and impact gun. If you plan on doing this much in the future, it will be a good investment. I don't use mine often, but when I need it, there's no substitute.

88lxi-shortram
08-26-2010, 06:10 AM
thats a great info thread man im going to give it a try today... luckily for me i already have a compressor but i am going to need to find an impact gun because last time i checked mine was messed up. for some reason the trigger is lazy and it doesnt want to pop out so the gun stays on

Dr_Snooz
08-26-2010, 07:00 PM
This gun ROCKS!

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-impact-wrench-2623.html

mushroom_toy
08-27-2010, 10:38 AM
Grab a set of stripped bolt extractor sockets and a pullbar...im sure thatll get em out. The sockets have teeth in em which grab the metal of the bolt head. I bought a craftsman set of em at sears for like $7

88lxi-shortram
08-27-2010, 04:17 PM
im looking in to it but lately i havent done much on the accord but the good news is i finally got my liscence today so no more riding my bike to autozone:rockon:

88lxi-shortram
09-04-2010, 02:20 PM
ok today i finally got the opportunity to get under the accord again. i finally got the a/c off and its belt. then i got on the headers. i got all 4 major bolts off(14mm). then i started getting off the 2 12mm bolts off and broke my socket so ive been put on hold until i can either borrow one or buy one. but after i get off headers and downpipe ill be taking the accord to school to finish the rest ( it saves me the money of the lift and ill have brand new snapon tools to use, every kind of lift i need, and i can get my alignment done to :) ).

88Accord-DX
09-04-2010, 08:17 PM
Seems like you got most of your questions answered for the most part. If your pulling the engine, make sure the one you put back in is going to last a LONG TiME. While your engine is pulled, at least replace all you motor mounts. Here is a pic of my engine pull years ago.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/A20A1backonlift.jpg

88lxi-shortram
09-04-2010, 09:27 PM
yea i got most of them answered but its my first time and all the extra advice and support (especially a18) helps loads. lol this is almost my build thread for now. but was that the engine you pulled? that trans looks mint.

o and ive officially established the plans for the old a20 but itll take time. im planning on making this a huge learning expierience and ripping the motor down and cleaning everything replacing mostly everything and running low comp to boost it later on down the road. but thatll be after the 5 speed swap which is later down the road. but this is a good start for me and with the classes im taking now i have access to more tools than i could possibly need so everything should go smooth enough.tomorrow im going to find another 12mm and give the downpipe another shot if not ill just try to cut them and buy new bolts, nut ect.

88lxi-shortram
09-05-2010, 03:42 PM
due to my ultra tight budget i probably wont be ablt to replace the mounts but i think theyll be fine because they havent been a problem so far... except the rear mount i think it may be broken so ill replace that one if i need to

88lxi-shortram
09-10-2010, 01:00 PM
ok i got the two bolt off the shifter cable that bolt it to the bottom of the car but its still connected to the shifter. idk wat bolts to undo plz give me advice im almost ready to pull the motor and im getting my lift on wednesday

88lxi-shortram
09-10-2010, 04:56 PM
cant i just undo the cable from the transmission by turning it?

88Accord-DX
09-10-2010, 07:27 PM
this is almost my build thread for now. but was that the engine you pulled? that trans looks mint.


That pic was a rebuilt motor I done. It might be good to rebuild you own motor and all, get some experience since your in school. I will be hard to do it right on a small budget. It cost me over 2 grand doing it myself.

There is a couple of links on here to pull the motor if your not sure on how to get the shift cable off.

A18A
09-10-2010, 11:00 PM
ok i got the two bolt off the shifter cable that bolt it to the bottom of the car but its still connected to the shifter. idk wat bolts to undo plz give me advice im almost ready to pull the motor and im getting my lift on wednesday

there's 2 ways to disconnect the cable, one is the way yo ustarted (with the 2 bolts) you will also have to remove the centre console inside the car & remove the pin holding ther shifter cable in there. OR you can unbolt the bolts on the gearbox in the area that the cable goes to, i think it's like a cover for the cable. and the cable will be held in there with 1 10mm bolt with a tab bent up to stop the bolt from moving (simply bend the tab out of the way with a screw driver) this is the way i do it anyway, but for you i would probably just recommend removing the centre console (like 6 screws) and undoing the pin, since you already got the other 2 bolts off

88lxi-shortram
09-11-2010, 06:24 AM
yea that was what i was thinking . i already removed the center console yesterday so i guess ill be taking that approach. althought i wil probably have to disconnect it from the transmission when im done correct?... also i unbolted the downpipe from the headers and broke off two bolt on accident but they didnt connect the downpipe to the headers it was almost like a mount to the block... i also broke one of those "mounts" while attempting to get the last two bolts off.. i was just wondering what they are and do i really need them?

A18A
09-11-2010, 07:40 AM
nah you don't have to pull the cable out of the gearbox if you've already undone it from the car. you'll be alright without the downpipes bracket to the block. haven't had mine on for years & no problem :)

88lxi-shortram
09-11-2010, 08:24 AM
yea i didnt think i needed them but as far as the cable goes ill just leave it there for now and continue on. but how do i remove the headers? i got the downpipe unbolted and i was taking the headers off i couldnt get them off because of egr going into the headers... how do i remove that or at least work my way around it?

A18A
09-11-2010, 05:31 PM
you don't have to pull them off cause you got the downpipe off

88Accord-DX
09-11-2010, 10:01 PM
but how do i remove the headers? i got the downpipe unbolted and i was taking the headers off i couldnt get them off because of egr going into the headers... how do i remove that or at least work my way around it?

That EGR pipe has like around a 27m.m. on the fitting, and probably is seized up in there. With out a good torch, a good bite with the right wrench &/ or pipe wrench, you can take the intake off with the head & header to keep pushing on.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ddude2uc/A20A1intakebottom.jpg

88lxi-shortram
09-12-2010, 11:09 AM
ill need them for the new engine so sadly i do need to remove them :( buti guess i can do that later on down the road.

88lxi-shortram
09-13-2010, 08:29 AM
ok i got the headers off and now i realized if i going to put them in the parts cleaner later on ill need the o2 sensor out so i have to put the headers back on and take off the sensors but no big deal... now all i need to knw is how to remove the shifter cable from the shifter so that i can move to phase 3 :)... o and a few questions as far as the whole phase 3 process goes:

1: once i get the control arms and everything off will i be able to steer it after the engine and transmission is pulleD?

2: after the engine is out and i remove the intake manifold what will i need to replace once i swap the manifolds over to the new engine? (besides gaskets). injectors, fuel rail ect.?

88lxi-shortram
09-14-2010, 05:48 AM
is there anywhere i can get a new downpipes thats in good coindition for cheap?

88lxi-shortram
09-15-2010, 05:52 AM
ok found one for 50 so im good on that... so its wednesday and i should be getting my lift today and possibly have the engine out this weekend... but i still need to know how to get the pin out of the shifter... anyone??

A18A
09-15-2010, 06:22 AM
its just clipped in through the cable & to the shifter thingy, you can pull it out with just your fingers

88lxi-shortram
09-16-2010, 06:11 AM
ok i got it out yesterday and now im almost ready to pull it out... i do need some help with the last step. i looked at the manual and the lower ball joints are completly different then the manual states and shows so ill be posting pics with questions when i get home from school and hopefully i get to try the "celebrate" step on the list.

A18A
09-16-2010, 06:52 AM
celebration is the best part :thumbup:

88lxi-shortram
09-18-2010, 06:51 AM
i got the axles out with alot of help from a new friend from school... im so happy thats over now i just need to start undoing mounts and get my hands on a lift... sadly the guy who was letting me borrow his traded it for for some seats but o well they were real authentic mugen seats so he made like 800$ at least off that trade. but anyways it feels great and the celebrate step is so much closer

88lxi-shortram
10-01-2010, 04:35 PM
ok ive left this thread dead for a while but now its back in action and im pulling the engine soon :) but i need to know exactly where i can bolt the chain to the head on the right side so i can lift it out tomoro hopefully. i was thinking about on the right motor mount but idk?

A18A
10-01-2010, 04:48 PM
from the points i said before (the hook/eye by the cam gear cover & one of the holes around the tv cable bracket on the gearbox) it's easier doing it like that

88lxi-shortram
10-19-2010, 05:53 PM
took me 25 minutes today and i got it out with almost any problems... great day today but i did manage to break the distributor and my windshield :(

A18A
10-19-2010, 10:25 PM
ouch!!! how did you manage that? that sucks

88lxi-shortram
10-20-2010, 05:59 AM
lol i was hoisting it out with a fellow student and the motor wanted to tilt towards the firewall. so i had to get on the windshield and push the motor towards the front of car and once it cleared the engine bay and all the weight came back to me i left a perfect ass print crack dead in the center. and the worst part is it rained last night so im anxious to get to school and find out whether or not it leaked.

A18A
10-21-2010, 04:40 AM
bugga, well, at least you got it out without much trouble :thumbup:

88lxi-shortram
10-21-2010, 05:52 AM
yup the only thing i really had to do was to undo the speed sensor from the car completly but it was actually relativly easy. just two clamps and a pins and it came right off. since i plan on painting the bay i did pressure wash it yesterday and omg i felt metal in my engine bay for the first time EVER instead of nasty ass grease i was quite happy:) but i missed some spots so today well be tackling that and probably begine plans for my wire tuck. things go so much faster with the proper equipment :D

88lxi-shortram
11-24-2010, 10:49 PM
ok well a few questions as far as installtaion goes...

1) any particular steps/order to go in?
2) do i need to put the motor at TDC or leave it as is?
3) anything else i should replace besides motor mounts?(MM bolts? gaskets?)

i should have the engine after the holidays but i would like to soak up the knowledge i need before i start.

88lxi-shortram
11-26-2010, 10:16 AM
bump...?

2oodoor
11-26-2010, 03:54 PM
steps? I will only say that if you have multiple points of mounting anything, get all your bolts in before you final tighten anything, just run them up a bit so they dont fall out.

88lxi-shortram
11-26-2010, 04:05 PM
only reason i ask is that we just put a motor into a 2002 corolla at school and now it wont idle w/o us being on and off the gas. my teacher says we should have put the motor at TDC but i dont understand why... because if the motor didnt shut off last at exactly TDC why would the ECU tell the motor to start at TDC?... honestly we lost hope for the corolla but i dont want my car that way...

88Accord-DX
11-26-2010, 04:14 PM
ON that 2002 corolla, you might have need to take it to the dealer & have a crank-relearn procedure done to the PCM. Call your local dealer & ask service department.

88lxi-shortram
11-26-2010, 04:21 PM
ill take that into consideration... but we dont need a dealership for that... lol we have almost everything any dealership has and anything we dont have the scholl willl buy for us :) but i do think thats a good suggestion.... but if it cranks just fine why a crank relearn?

88Accord-DX
11-26-2010, 04:31 PM
The main thing is, when you pulled the motor you probally have it at a different crankshaft position from when the old motor was pulled. The PCM needs to re-learn where TDC starts on #1. Sometimes when the PCM loses voltage, it messes with the memory.

88lxi-shortram
11-26-2010, 04:35 PM
oooo i think i understand now. ill out word in once school starts again and hopefully we can get it gone and out of the way.